well thare me i ues the rael thing dirt yes out side and sand and dry choped up grass or mix of static graess browens tans greens hek just warter mixed with dirt and drop glue dos the job just god but tat just me
now how would you do thins on a 1:18 1/18 Ultimate Soldier Vietnam...because its not super detailed and his skin is normal coloerd and last i checked vietnam was mostly jungle water and mud...so thanks
@110samec yes this is the dragon M2a1. The kit is a little inaccurate, but not hard to fix. I had a lot of fun adding the extra details and corrections! It is way better than the Tamiya kit... way way better.
The brush you're using in 5:33 looks extremely comfortable, I guess its kolinsky/toray acrylic detail, but which brand? I would like to try one like this one, really looks anatomic.
I have four of these, 3 of which are now old. I have stripped the bristles down to just 3 for an ultra-fine chipping brush which you can see on my blog!
Great. I think vids like this can only help to give kids and other newcomers to the hobby the kind of advice they need to improve their modelling and build their confidence. It also helps to show that a good paint/weathering job can make up for not being able to afford all those delicious aftermarket sets that some of us cant afford. You know the old modellers saying "A good paint job can improve a bad model, but a bad paint job can ruin a good model."
I'm using white glue, matt varnish from Vallejo (to take the shine off the white glue) and ordinary tap water. This mix will dry with a totally flat finish.
@samosammo123 haha I am black country mate, the brummy sound is from my "phone voice" that I put on to do my voiceover. If I spoke in my proper black country drawl I doubt anyone would understand me. What part of the mids you from?
kinda (i support Arsenal), im in Aldridge BTW! Not that far away from Willenhall!
I support Arsenal because my ancestors used to work at the great Woolich Arsenal in London, the football team was formed from workers at the factory (which made munitions), thus that is why i support Arsenal!
Excellent tutorial! Just a quick question though. Since I use my tanks for wargaming I need the pigment to set on the models since it will come away when handling. I used white spirit to do the pigment wash (using MIG pigments) but I get the same result as water. The pigment rubs away very easily...Any suggestions of how to make it more durable?
Mig actually make a fixing medium which you can apply, but you could also try doing the method as per this video then applying any other kind of fixing solution - provided it is diluted and you do not touch the pigments when wet it shouldn't move. This method does a pretty good job of securing the mud to the vehicle to start with so a simple acrylic matt varnish should work.
I need to do more work with wargaming stuff but when I do there will be some videos about stuff like this.
Thanks for the reply! Well main difference of wargaming models vs display models is that they need to be much more durable because of all the handling during transporting and gaming. I bought a bottle of turpentine to use as a thinner and it seems that it does a much better job at hodling the pigments on the model. I don't know if turpentine is considered to be a "permanent fixer" but I think it works.
@KurzeModan Phantomshock is right, Mig Pigments are good but quite expensive. I suggest you try getting artist's pastel chalks from your craft store. This come in sticks about the size of blackboard chalk but are square in shape rather than round. Get a fine sieve to grind the pastels down and you can apply them same way you would do with the Mig Pigments. You can 'stab' the pastel in with a short stubbly brush, mix with enamel thinner and use wet or do a combination of wet and dry.
@illegalimmigrantpl MiG pigments arent cheap at all. Devil over the Atlantic pigments are MUCH cheaper, but dont come in all the same colors. google them. good luck!
Sure thing man, you could use fine soil from the garden. I spoke to a guy about it a bit further down the page... just make sure it's clean soil, microwave it to kill any germs.
of course red ones go faster. I used to play 40k ;)
check the comments a little down the page. You CAN use real dirt or clay powder. The reason I use pigments is that they're clean and come in a variety of pre-tinted colours.
There is no right or wrong way. The important thing here is the method of attaching them.
And you can scream Waaaaaaaaggghhh while you're doing it if you must!
-Then take real dirt or rose mary or something that has a brown feeling to it(Rose mary gives it a dried up feeling) and sprinkle over where the glue has been laid.Too simple, and will SAVE YOU MONEY!
A good suggestion ! Using real soil is a good alternative to pigments - I use it myself for heavy mud (a video tutorial for the future) but it needs to be sifted so you have only the finer grains and remember - if you're using real soil make sure you microwave it first to kill any nasty germs that might be in there. Any kind of animal could have done it's business on the soil, and you're going to be getting messy in it so clean it up first !
Sure thing. I have plans for a new video in the works, and airbrushing will play a major part in it - so I guess I could do one on aibrushing just to back it up.
hi i am very new to this, i recently brought a tamiya 1/24 scale rally car and would like to add a sprayed mud effect, would this method work for it, if not any ideas would be great. thanks very much and your videos are amazing
the pigment washes would be useful for dirtying up your car's wheels, but for the mud spray you should check out the "Splattering" effect on my other video "Weathering Roadwheels" - this technique would be absolutely PERFECT for sprayed mud on a rally car.
The technique in this video under the wheelarch would be good for the underneath of your rally car too but the sprayed mud would really be best done using splattering.
Good question! I am not a fan of "setting" pigments but those who handle their models regularly such as wargamers will definitely have to do this.
I believe it's true that Alcohol will set the pigments hard to the model. The only time I've tried it is using Tamiya thinners which is alcohol base.
I think that using a stronger thinner like white spirit will also do it, but sticking to alcohol is the safest bet. Remember, test first ! Saves wrecking a model.
Brilliant, what a well produced vid and well narated to boot!! Ive only ever modeled and painted warhammer figures and have started a collection on tamiya 1 35th scale and there are some great tips and tricks here on how to make them look realistic. The best part is there is none of that awfull rock music ruining your great vid!!
To get the dusty effect just mix the pigments with water and brush it on. when it dries, it leaves a layer like dust that you can brush away to leave in recesses.
sure you can use it on both. If you add it to tracks and wheels just make sure you run your finger over any points where the tracks or treads would make contact with the ground. The dirt should only be in the recessed unless there's very heavy mud which this method isn't suitable for.
yeah just get the pigment wet like water paint and brush it on, i did it and then rubbed it off where the tracks touch the ground and it looks very realistic. and the abram i painted with a Tamiaya sand color spray paint.
The mud is pigment from MIG Productions mixed with a little white glue and matte varnish. There's no paint needed, the pigments will be carried by the water and then dry to a dust which you can then wipe away.
thanks man, i joined the marines and signed up to be a tanker so i bought an M1A1 Abram tank and finished it but i fucked up b/c i didnt paint it realisticly. and i just bought an M4 Sherman that i want to do what you just did, you're really good at this shit dude! thanks!
Thanks. This was helpful. I was trying to think of a good base to use under my mig pigments. I was using Hudson and Allen "Mud" mixed with water to a thick mix,to represent heavier mud. I will try this method for lighter mud.
nice job m8
NapFloridian 2 days ago
is it possible to use Oil Based paint washes rather than pigments as mud on the wheels?
MrChompom 3 days ago
You shouldn't have let it get in that state. There are plenty of car washes up and down that you could have used.
whitbyjet65 1 month ago
Time to figure out where to get pigments... My 40k leman russes just look boring without weathering detail...
abc114able 1 month ago
is it pigment powder you are using? just whont to make it clear to me, It locks realt grate and I ahve to try it out some time.
Eldormen 4 months ago
can i know which type of white glue it was used in this video ?
robertzebbug 4 months ago in playlist modeling
well thare me i ues the rael thing dirt yes out side and sand and dry choped up grass or mix of static graess browens tans greens hek just warter mixed with dirt and drop glue dos the job just god but tat just me
redgreen09 4 months ago
now how would you do thins on a 1:18 1/18 Ultimate Soldier Vietnam...because its not super detailed and his skin is normal coloerd and last i checked vietnam was mostly jungle water and mud...so thanks
ninjanacho1 6 months ago
wow, look impressive!
bmbpdk 6 months ago
...very simple yet looks so good!...thxu for sharing...
SteveSabbai 6 months ago
NICE!!
1339LARS 7 months ago
Is the model by dragon? Im thinking of getting one and is it good to build?
110samec 9 months ago
@110samec yes this is the dragon M2a1. The kit is a little inaccurate, but not hard to fix. I had a lot of fun adding the extra details and corrections! It is way better than the Tamiya kit... way way better.
ScaleModelMedic 9 months ago 2
Wow! Very impressive results!
MacAttack001 11 months ago
Anybody tell me where i can get modellers powdered Aluminium and powdered Steel? Any help would be welcome.Thanks
billyhunchback 11 months ago
Did you use a primer then add that green base coat?
Sorry new to all this and trying to work out what to do :)
TheFewzz 11 months ago
or just use real mud
07gmclover 1 year ago
White glue ?? doesn't it damge the colour's surface ??
How I get the same ?
greeting from Germany :)
By the Way cool video 5*
Zokker89 1 year ago
Hello and sorry for resurrecting an old video.
The brush you're using in 5:33 looks extremely comfortable, I guess its kolinsky/toray acrylic detail, but which brand? I would like to try one like this one, really looks anatomic.
Thanks for your time and keep up the good work.
koromin21 1 year ago
@koromin21
hi
this brush is from Italeri !
I have four of these, 3 of which are now old. I have stripped the bristles down to just 3 for an ultra-fine chipping brush which you can see on my blog!
ScaleModelMedic 1 year ago
what pigments did you use? i cannot see well from the video but is it powdery or like a paint? looks great though!
night6sceptre101 1 year ago
@night6sceptre101 i think they're mig pigments
hippiehobo1 1 year ago
Wow! A great vid and a very useful tutorial!
Thank you!
wickie1507 1 year ago
Comment removed
Yurik0Omega 1 year ago
Great. I think vids like this can only help to give kids and other newcomers to the hobby the kind of advice they need to improve their modelling and build their confidence. It also helps to show that a good paint/weathering job can make up for not being able to afford all those delicious aftermarket sets that some of us cant afford. You know the old modellers saying "A good paint job can improve a bad model, but a bad paint job can ruin a good model."
pathdaly 1 year ago
great video's. All of them. They are very clear and your instructions are simple to follow. Thanks for posting them.
Kiwiaus69 1 year ago
at around 30 seconds i hear white glue, something varnish, and tap water. could you please tell me what the varnish is?
PhilJFlyMusic 1 year ago
@PhilJFlyMusic
I'm using white glue, matt varnish from Vallejo (to take the shine off the white glue) and ordinary tap water. This mix will dry with a totally flat finish.
ScaleModelMedic 1 year ago
@ScaleModelMedic
Hey, a fellow brummy, hi!
samosammo123 6 months ago
@samosammo123 haha I am black country mate, the brummy sound is from my "phone voice" that I put on to do my voiceover. If I spoke in my proper black country drawl I doubt anyone would understand me. What part of the mids you from?
ScaleModelMedic 6 months ago
@ScaleModelMedic
round walsall (west mids)
samosammo123 6 months ago
@samosammo123 I know walsall well, I am originally from willenhall ! you a football fan at all ?
ScaleModelMedic 6 months ago
@ScaleModelMedic
kinda (i support Arsenal), im in Aldridge BTW! Not that far away from Willenhall!
I support Arsenal because my ancestors used to work at the great Woolich Arsenal in London, the football team was formed from workers at the factory (which made munitions), thus that is why i support Arsenal!
samosammo123 6 months ago
wow this look 100% like the real thing..
kelnology 1 year ago
excellent!
militaryminiature 1 year ago
good
militaryminiature 1 year ago
Excellent info.
militaryminiature 1 year ago
I am trying to get a gun shield cover for an m41 made and I am having some trouble. Got any ideas or forums that would help me with this problem?
shiftercontrol 1 year ago
very helpful, would love to see some more of your work and tips. 10 stars
shiftercontrol 1 year ago
Very interesting techniques. The only problem is: new brush for new cases.
vendetta007mike 1 year ago
A gold mine of information clearly explained. Thanks!
jack887 1 year ago
so it was water, white glue, and what was the other one?
koreankid150 1 year ago
reeally nice how you use the MIG pigments
MrEliDK 1 year ago
who do i get the pigmets??
sam123738 1 year ago
or you can just use real dirt. It's free :)
Coolio97970 1 year ago
thank you so much
jeffreywilligenburg 1 year ago
Excellent tutorial! Just a quick question though. Since I use my tanks for wargaming I need the pigment to set on the models since it will come away when handling. I used white spirit to do the pigment wash (using MIG pigments) but I get the same result as water. The pigment rubs away very easily...Any suggestions of how to make it more durable?
lfgavalas 1 year ago 2
Mig actually make a fixing medium which you can apply, but you could also try doing the method as per this video then applying any other kind of fixing solution - provided it is diluted and you do not touch the pigments when wet it shouldn't move. This method does a pretty good job of securing the mud to the vehicle to start with so a simple acrylic matt varnish should work.
I need to do more work with wargaming stuff but when I do there will be some videos about stuff like this.
ScaleModelMedic 1 year ago
Thanks for the reply! Well main difference of wargaming models vs display models is that they need to be much more durable because of all the handling during transporting and gaming. I bought a bottle of turpentine to use as a thinner and it seems that it does a much better job at hodling the pigments on the model. I don't know if turpentine is considered to be a "permanent fixer" but I think it works.
Thanks again!
lfgavalas 1 year ago
What is the base color green on the halftrack?
JAGDPANTHER20 1 year ago
What?
GrandPimp20 2 years ago
Comment removed
OSPREY5199 2 years ago
What is the type of oil painttaht you use. I can not find BUFF that you speak of. What is the # of it. and where can I get some. Thanks
OSPREY5199 2 years ago
any light grey/brown would do. Just go for a dust colour, you don't need to get the exact shade I used.
Tamiya make a Buff acrylic paint which is the same colour, you could use that to get a match.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
@KurzeModan Phantomshock is right, Mig Pigments are good but quite expensive. I suggest you try getting artist's pastel chalks from your craft store. This come in sticks about the size of blackboard chalk but are square in shape rather than round. Get a fine sieve to grind the pastels down and you can apply them same way you would do with the Mig Pigments. You can 'stab' the pastel in with a short stubbly brush, mix with enamel thinner and use wet or do a combination of wet and dry.
miguelitogg 2 years ago
Looks very impressive. The grass effect is superb!
OurFinestHour1940 2 years ago
Do you where iwould be able to find MIG production pigments cheap? Where di you get them from?
illegalimmigrantpl 2 years ago
@illegalimmigrantpl MiG pigments arent cheap at all. Devil over the Atlantic pigments are MUCH cheaper, but dont come in all the same colors. google them. good luck!
Phantomshock 2 years ago
Thanks alot :) it helped il try ebayu first but ill try out that place you suggested
illegalimmigrantpl 2 years ago
great video i've got the mig pigments but i was'nt to sure how to use it properly but now i've just seen you do it i'm gonna give it a go,big thanks
deandigger 2 years ago
Is there anything you can use instead of the powder? Something maybe home made? Salt, sugar etc...
joroco19851 2 years ago
Sure thing man, you could use fine soil from the garden. I spoke to a guy about it a bit further down the page... just make sure it's clean soil, microwave it to kill any germs.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
@joroco19851 try the baking soda.
JAGDPANTHER20 1 year ago
looks cool paied red its go faster ok joke out the whay cant you just use dart frume the back yard ?? or clay powdaer thats whot i gots WKJR
redgreen09 2 years ago
@redgreen09
of course red ones go faster. I used to play 40k ;)
check the comments a little down the page. You CAN use real dirt or clay powder. The reason I use pigments is that they're clean and come in a variety of pre-tinted colours.
There is no right or wrong way. The important thing here is the method of attaching them.
And you can scream Waaaaaaaaggghhh while you're doing it if you must!
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
What matt varnish did you use???
Horstcamper 2 years ago
It is Vallejo acrylic matt. It is part of their standard paint range rather than the modelAIR paints, but you get quite a big bottle.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
Heres a way to save money:
Put your glue where aproprate for dirt and grim.
-Then take real dirt or rose mary or something that has a brown feeling to it(Rose mary gives it a dried up feeling) and sprinkle over where the glue has been laid.Too simple, and will SAVE YOU MONEY!
chillinwithguitar 2 years ago 2
A good suggestion ! Using real soil is a good alternative to pigments - I use it myself for heavy mud (a video tutorial for the future) but it needs to be sifted so you have only the finer grains and remember - if you're using real soil make sure you microwave it first to kill any nasty germs that might be in there. Any kind of animal could have done it's business on the soil, and you're going to be getting messy in it so clean it up first !
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
Its about time someone gave us some decent tutorials nice one keep em come. Maybe a few airbrush vidds wont go a miss
AC1DK1LLA 2 years ago
Sure thing. I have plans for a new video in the works, and airbrushing will play a major part in it - so I guess I could do one on aibrushing just to back it up.
Cheers
Jon
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
hi i am very new to this, i recently brought a tamiya 1/24 scale rally car and would like to add a sprayed mud effect, would this method work for it, if not any ideas would be great. thanks very much and your videos are amazing
smiff198907 2 years ago
the pigment washes would be useful for dirtying up your car's wheels, but for the mud spray you should check out the "Splattering" effect on my other video "Weathering Roadwheels" - this technique would be absolutely PERFECT for sprayed mud on a rally car.
The technique in this video under the wheelarch would be good for the underneath of your rally car too but the sprayed mud would really be best done using splattering.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
is it true that you can set the pigment with rubbing alcohol?
1RedCorsair 2 years ago
Good question! I am not a fan of "setting" pigments but those who handle their models regularly such as wargamers will definitely have to do this.
I believe it's true that Alcohol will set the pigments hard to the model. The only time I've tried it is using Tamiya thinners which is alcohol base.
I think that using a stronger thinner like white spirit will also do it, but sticking to alcohol is the safest bet. Remember, test first ! Saves wrecking a model.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
did the tamiya thinner set the pigments?
warmadscot 2 years ago
yes
mkingy1 2 years ago
can you get pigment from hardwerestore
tenka45623 2 years ago
I'm afraid not. MIG Pigments are usually stocked by model shops or you can get them easily online.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
thank you! the other day i was on the net and i found alot of mig pigmets
tenka45623 2 years ago
Brilliant, what a well produced vid and well narated to boot!! Ive only ever modeled and painted warhammer figures and have started a collection on tamiya 1 35th scale and there are some great tips and tricks here on how to make them look realistic. The best part is there is none of that awfull rock music ruining your great vid!!
Keep 'em coming
bubbaharry 2 years ago
can this technique be use on a muddy diorama
shinnx123 2 years ago
what are you using for that powder or the dust?
ItsIncubus 2 years ago
To get the dusty effect just mix the pigments with water and brush it on. when it dries, it leaves a layer like dust that you can brush away to leave in recesses.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
will this look realistic on the wheels and tracks or should i do something different
goofoffproductions 2 years ago
sure you can use it on both. If you add it to tracks and wheels just make sure you run your finger over any points where the tracks or treads would make contact with the ground. The dirt should only be in the recessed unless there's very heavy mud which this method isn't suitable for.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
yeah just get the pigment wet like water paint and brush it on, i did it and then rubbed it off where the tracks touch the ground and it looks very realistic. and the abram i painted with a Tamiaya sand color spray paint.
ItsIncubus 2 years ago
what kind of paint are you using to mix with the water, and what are you using for the "mud"?
ItsIncubus 2 years ago
The mud is pigment from MIG Productions mixed with a little white glue and matte varnish. There's no paint needed, the pigments will be carried by the water and then dry to a dust which you can then wipe away.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
thanks man, i joined the marines and signed up to be a tanker so i bought an M1A1 Abram tank and finished it but i fucked up b/c i didnt paint it realisticly. and i just bought an M4 Sherman that i want to do what you just did, you're really good at this shit dude! thanks!
ItsIncubus 2 years ago
how did you paint it
goofoffproductions 2 years ago
i used a flat camo spray paint, it looks really good on the Sherman
ItsIncubus 2 years ago
if it is olive drab or green it would be accurate as the first abrams were in olive drab
goofoffproductions 2 years ago
It's not somthing I'm in to, but it seems like a really cool thing to do. A sort of art within an art.
Looks really good!
Anonymous4953 2 years ago
Thank you for this tutorial. What pigments did you use ?
madda300 2 years ago
Pigments are all by Mig. The shades I use mainly are Europe Dust, Dry Mud and Dark Mud.
ScaleModelMedic 2 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
Gay.
JefferyWimberly 2 years ago
nice work interesting how to see to do that
lange0605 2 years ago
thanks... great tutorial... can you do one on rust??? :)
svinehunden 2 years ago
wow, that looks awesome
whyeie 2 years ago
Thanks. This was helpful. I was trying to think of a good base to use under my mig pigments. I was using Hudson and Allen "Mud" mixed with water to a thick mix,to represent heavier mud. I will try this method for lighter mud.
Blargaldalien 2 years ago