Which direction do I rotatate the crankshaft pully to remove the bolts to the TC? I believe its clockwise but cannot confirm it. Don't want to bend any valves. Awesome video BTW.
My first time taking the engine out took me about 50 minute I pretty much I ate my hayne book reading so much lol. I was trying to do everything right, now it only take me about 30-40 minute. Reason for me taking out the engine was bc my timing belt jump due to a sprocket broking inside. I was driving my 98 impreza ej22 looking online I found out that it was a inteference from 97-up, non interencere 90-96. Bough another EJ22(1996) for $600 put new Dayco timing belt kit from advance auto part.
Hi brian, please help me. Mine 98 forester DOHC is liaking oil. I need to reseal oil pan. can you tell me where is the jacking point? I need to jack up the engine a fews inches.
@ycformosa Unbolt the two nuts on the motor mounts and the top back strut mount. Then jack using a wood block at the union of the engine and trans behind the oil pan.
@sweetlikeADAM They're 14mm. I get the passenger side from the top after moving the 02 sensor wiring. I get the drivers side from below by reaching in front of the engine cradle with my left/wrenching hand and look over the engine cradle from behind it- I'm facing forward. Good luck!
Finally got them - Go heavy on the penetration spray
Passengers Side/ Easier if you have things out of the way. 3/8 ratchet w/14mm socket het it on good and extend with a pipe and go to town. If still no luck, you need to add some impact/ vibration to get the penetrating spray to work. Square up a long screw driver on the nut (as to not damage it) and take some wacks with a hammer.
2. The drivers side - 1/2 ratchet with a reducer down to 3/8, with the 14mm 3/8 socket. This make a perfect fit. Go in above the cross member under the steering column. This give you enough room to get both hands and pull down. If it still doesn't go, you can remove the wheel and add more leverage to the ratchet. Best of luck ALL.
have to remove 2 of these from identical subarus (swapping the good engine into mine, then selling it off, someone else's problem) and this is by far the most straightforward engine pull when you already know a thing or two about subaru's.
@wyatthc I take it off from below. I use a 14mm ratcheting box wrench and I reach around the front of the motor support member and look under the axle at the nut to know when to catch it.
Mate i'm very handy around cars but am about to tackle my sisters Liberty for the first time and this video is exactly what i need, Legend!!! Thanks mate!!
I have a question for you I just did my head gaskets and while I did that I had the timing belt and water pump changed.. anyways.. I ran into a weird issue and the first person I figured would know is you.. my car is a 97 OBW.. the belt tensioner that puts pressure on the belt when I tighten it to 29 ft-lb like the FSM it no longer pivots up or down.. is that normal? I also have another question regarding the timing belt and how my passenger side keeps moving 1-2 teeth off installing last pulley
@SubaruB4RSK It MUST pivot- somethings missing (washer or bushing) for it to not move. As for the two teeth- use a paint pen to mark the belt AT the timing marks (most are marked from the factory) that way you're good for sure. Also don't be shy to turn the cam to get the slack you need to get the belt on. You've seen my "Subaru 2.5l Timing Belt Replacement (2002 Forester) How to" video right?
well you know what it was? it was the sleeve on the new one and the bolt.. I had to swap the old stuff in the new one and it worked fine.. Engine has been in the car since Monday :) It was pretty fun to work on.
@laurielaskowski I don't. I'm not a fan of doing it that way. It deffinately CAN be done though. I've done it before as have many others. I'm a lot faster if I pull the motor.
@ear4perfection You'd think so when watching a step by step narration wouldn't you? I charge flat rate and am about half what a dealer charges. I'm 40-60% efficient even when I film and I'm 160% efficient when I'm not filming.
what type heads do the ej25d have? i have to replace the exhaust studs bc they came out when i tried to take them out. so what type of adhesive would i have to use?
@hxcpunkforlife I'm not sure I understand the question? EJ25D's take EJ25D heads. If the exhaust studs came out (normally) you just reinsert them with blue Loctite on the threads. If you pulled them out COLD and ripped the threads out- then you need to tap for bigger threads or use a heli-coil kit on it. If you're getting new heads then don't worry about it.
@filoprince Same exact principles/steps just no torque converter issue. I would still pull the intake because it's so easy and usually has to come off later if you're pulling the heads, but you don't have to.
Thanks for the vid, Brian. Got the Forester's motor out tonight, spent an hour and a half on the driver's side bottom stud (engine to trans). What's the suggested method of getting it out? We had the CV shaft in the way, so getting any kind of leverage on it was incredibly difficult.
Couldn't have done it without this vid though. Thanks!
@briansmobile1 Yeah, but the nut on that stud had only two inches of room behind it, with no room to turn a breaker bar or ratchet. Basically, my question was what is the easiest way to get the nut off the driver's side bottom stud? Unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the tranny?
@theheineken I pull that nut from below after pulling the starter, but before lifting the motor. I use a ratcheting box wrench, or sometimes a swivel handle ratchet and socket.
I am replacing a head gasket on a 98 Forester 2.5. I don't want to put a OEM gasket back in. What is the best head gasket for this engine and where should I get it? btw I am in the same county as you.
I am replacing a head gasket on a 98 Forester 2.5. I don't want to put a OEM gasket back in. What is the best head gasket for this engine and where should I get it? btw I am in the same county as you.
Thanks for the video I have a 97 outback that I need to pull the motor from for the headgaskets but I don't think I need to remove the intake manifold in the car until the motor is out right?
hey brian i am trying to get a blown up ej25 legacy together and i cant figure out where the 2 hoses on the valve covers go too? if u coulf help me out with that that would be great!
All finally finished! Japanese replacement #2 is in and purring like a kitten. The importers were kind enough to give me a replacement under warrant. Now I have my old block sitting there, do you have any suggestions on what I should do with it? is it worth selling?
Thank for your instructional video, if we get another year out of that car because of the engine swap, we'll have you to thank.
Thanks for posting. I just pulled one from a 99 Forester; first time FWD for me. I watched this before and again afterwards - I should have watched it twice before...
Mine's a manual and I was able to leave the intake on until the motor was out. Since I'm doing a head-gasket job it's possible I could have left the intake on. Of course the bolts would have to come out but the electrical & hoses could remain.
Other: There was only one motor-mount bolt, starter bolts were both 14mm.
@y2mouse Look for more bolts! Some of them have four extra bolts on them. Two on each side. Also you have to support the trans and lift high enough to clear the motor mount bolts from the cross member cradle.
Would you believe my replacement Japanese engine blew a head gasket, not even through my first test! The dealer has offered me a replacement, but all the effort to put it in was a waste. The block had some chalky residue, and even though I tried to flush the crap out as soon as I had run the engine for a few minutes, I filed my rad so full that the coolant flushing pros said it couldn't be recovered. The good news is all the bolts and clamps I took off the first time will be easier to deal with.
@briansmobile1 Would you replace the head gaskets, or would you go for the replacement JDM offered by the dealer? I'm just mechanical enough to do the engine swap, and even then, I don't think I did such a hot job on the egr drilling as I couldn't get a real positive seat on the new tapped hole on the block. I am quite nervy about tackling the head gasket, but not too excited about doing an engine swap over again either, especially since I have to truck the broke block an hour away to get it.
@briansmobile1 Thanks for the advice, now, I have 2 engine blocks here now.. the original with 230k on it but I know it has never overheated, and the new Japanese one that has 20k or so, but I overheated it bad enough to cook the headgasket. which one is the better bet (the Jap one was considerably stronger before it went)
@dmonkfunk Can't say for sure without inspecting it, but probably the Japanese one is a better bet on the block itself. Better rings and bearings etc. Just as long as it stayed straight in the block dept.
Malls . My heads were warped from running hot but not too expensive to get decked and even did valves since 170k on the car. briansmobile1 was an awesome resource. I wish you had videos of you doing the whole rebuild. Nonetheless tremendous help and awesome instruction!
@PhilGillis I've got videos for about everything. Check on my channel. T-belt, head torq, piston pulling, block splitting etc. My videos are limited to 15 min. Thanks for watching!
Thanks . I'll try to go back with the ratting wrench. Just waiting on new timing idlers, tensioner and belt and it's going back in the car. It has really been fun to work on. I was dreading it but I don't know why now.
@PhilGillis Ya SUBBIES have a real intuitive design. They're built to be easily serviced. You can even plug and play between the 2.2l and 2.5l motors.
Thanks for the video. I pulled the engine on a 98 forester replaced the rear main seal and the infamous oil separator plate. This video was very helpful. We were able to remove the flex plate bolts without pulling the intake manifold, but it was a tight squeeze.
@briansmobile1 Do you have to undo the bolts on the transmission mount? I've got her all undressed and the block hooked up, bolts out of the flex plate, both mounts - 4 bolts to the transmission. I'm ready.. I just have that last question before she comes out.
@briansmobile1 I got everything back together, (of course the one thing I forgot was the EGR, which is akward as @%^!+ to get at once the pipes are all bucked in) . Now for the real problem.... there is no heat going to the cabin, and the engine overheats after a little revving.There's some bubbles in the coolant tank.. HG blown? When I got the new block from japan, I noticed there was quite a bit of residue in the passage ways for the coolant. I wonder if the gunk has blocked off something.
@dmonkfunk With the engine cold, take off the radiator cap and start it up. If it geysers right away it's a blown head gasket. If the coolant slowly rises with the engine temperature (like normal) then you have a bad thermostat or water pump impeller.
This video gave me the courage to attempt this with my car. I have a blown head gasket, and the dealer tried to take me to the cleaners. I bought a JDM 2.5 and I'm going to go for it. I've taken out an engine in a boat before, but never anything as complex as this. Shouldn't be bad as long as I take my time, and follow all the steps.
almost there . .trying to figure out how to get the 4 14mm bolts and 2 14mm nuts on the transmission to engine . .stuff is in there hard to reach, torque converter botls out, intake off, starter out, underneath mount nuts, exhaust . .think I just have the trans to motor . .any tips for reaching those and getting them?
@PhilGillis For the bottom two I use a wratcheting box wrench. I use the wrench in the space where the starter used to be. The one on the pass side I pull kinda the same way.
@PhilGillis I actually climbed up on the motor an got a bit of leverage on it with a ratchet. The one on the drivers side I used the notch on a ball peen hammer mated to the notch on the end of my ratchet handle. Got both hands on the hammer handle, and could use my body weight to get it started. Congrats on finishing your engine pull.
thanks for the great video . .gearing up to do a 99 head gasket and bouncing between pulling and leaving in the car. You make it look easy . .and that scares me :-)
@PhilGillis It's not too bad. Just don't be shy about pulling the intake off as a unit. you can leave most every thing together on the intake. doing this makes it easier to work with and you Have To if it's an automatic trans.
I had to remove one in school, my instructor was pissing me off, he would not let me take the intake manifold off even though you had to, he didn't believe me.
@justin3zelda On an automatic trans you're best to. Your teachers just trying to help.... bless his heart. (She's so fat she's gonna blow!.... bless her heart) Isn't that a fun and useful phrase? You can say anything before "bless your heart" and get away with it. lol
I soaked my exhaust manifold studs for 24 hours with PB and they ended up coming out of the head as the bolt seized to the stud. Got some new studs and retapped the inserts and everything seems to be holding together just fine.
You really need a lift in your shop man!
Reassembly was pretty easy but I missed 2 sensors: the knock sensor and the coolant temp sensor, both of which are towards the back and get hidden easily when you put the intake on.
@Flaheat Alond with soaking, I strongly recommend wire brushing. It's like sweeping gravel off the roller skating ring before skating. Less binding. Sway bar end links always come off easy after doing this vs. being impossible. I'd love a lift, but need to build the new shop 1st. My city won't let me yet. I'm working on it though.
I'm doing the same thing! (again) just got a 99' outback and a 96 gt wagon. pulling the wagon engine next weekend, just got a DOHC 2.5 into the outback and it works great. this is subaru # 7 for me and all of them were BD chassis (95-99) curently there are 3 subarus in my drive/garage the pretty one is my wifes:) you need and parts or trim pieces from my 96' 2.5 GT wagon?
Why don’t auto manufacturers use stainless steel exhaust manifold bolts if they are so susceptible to rust? Do they really cost that much extra? Or is there some other reason that I’m just not aware of?
@watcbd I think the whole "not giving a damn" along with "anything to save 5 cents for the share holders" thing is enough to keep things traditional and cheap. Simply using anti-sieze like they do on O2 sensors would be enough.
Which direction do I rotatate the crankshaft pully to remove the bolts to the TC? I believe its clockwise but cannot confirm it. Don't want to bend any valves. Awesome video BTW.
waynard2u 6 days ago
@waynard2u Everything is Right hand thread (standard) If TC means Torque Converter then rotate the TC bolts counter clockwise.
briansmobile1 6 days ago
My first time taking the engine out took me about 50 minute I pretty much I ate my hayne book reading so much lol. I was trying to do everything right, now it only take me about 30-40 minute. Reason for me taking out the engine was bc my timing belt jump due to a sprocket broking inside. I was driving my 98 impreza ej22 looking online I found out that it was a inteference from 97-up, non interencere 90-96. Bough another EJ22(1996) for $600 put new Dayco timing belt kit from advance auto part.
goldtinium 2 weeks ago
Why not just replace it with a junkyard 2.5 or even a wrx motor?
newengland72 2 weeks ago
@newengland72 You totally can! If you can find them. They're popular aluminum block motors to use in ultra light aircraft.
briansmobile1 2 weeks ago
Hi brian, please help me. Mine 98 forester DOHC is liaking oil. I need to reseal oil pan. can you tell me where is the jacking point? I need to jack up the engine a fews inches.
ycformosa 3 weeks ago
@ycformosa Unbolt the two nuts on the motor mounts and the top back strut mount. Then jack using a wood block at the union of the engine and trans behind the oil pan.
briansmobile1 3 weeks ago
how bout for an STi?
huntbot1 1 month ago
I have a 97' Impreza 1.8l awd, will this still work?
MrKaoVue 1 month ago
I'm having troubles removing the nuts from the two lower bell housing studs. Any suggestions on how/where to maneuver them from?
sweetlikeADAM 1 month ago
@sweetlikeADAM They're 14mm. I get the passenger side from the top after moving the 02 sensor wiring. I get the drivers side from below by reaching in front of the engine cradle with my left/wrenching hand and look over the engine cradle from behind it- I'm facing forward. Good luck!
briansmobile1 1 month ago
@sweetlikeADAM
Had the same trouble.
Finally got them - Go heavy on the penetration spray
Passengers Side/ Easier if you have things out of the way. 3/8 ratchet w/14mm socket het it on good and extend with a pipe and go to town. If still no luck, you need to add some impact/ vibration to get the penetrating spray to work. Square up a long screw driver on the nut (as to not damage it) and take some wacks with a hammer.
JAYofALL99TRADES 1 month ago
@JAYofALL99TRADES
2. The drivers side - 1/2 ratchet with a reducer down to 3/8, with the 14mm 3/8 socket. This make a perfect fit. Go in above the cross member under the steering column. This give you enough room to get both hands and pull down. If it still doesn't go, you can remove the wheel and add more leverage to the ratchet. Best of luck ALL.
JAYofALL99TRADES 1 month ago
have to remove 2 of these from identical subarus (swapping the good engine into mine, then selling it off, someone else's problem) and this is by far the most straightforward engine pull when you already know a thing or two about subaru's.
Serveck 2 months ago
any tips for removing the nut on the driver side bottom of the engine that is semi blocked by the axle?
wyatthc 2 months ago
@wyatthc I take it off from below. I use a 14mm ratcheting box wrench and I reach around the front of the motor support member and look under the axle at the nut to know when to catch it.
briansmobile1 2 months ago
is pulling the 2.5 motor about the same as pulling a 2.2 motor?
xuenanprince 3 months ago
@xuenanprince yes it is. There are four bolt ones like this and six bolt ones on newer 2.5's. and they are still very much the same.
briansmobile1 3 months ago
Mate i'm very handy around cars but am about to tackle my sisters Liberty for the first time and this video is exactly what i need, Legend!!! Thanks mate!!
agentblooms 4 months ago
@agentblooms You're welcome
briansmobile1 4 months ago
Brian you are a legend. I did the head gaskets, tb, etc in an 03 forester and your videos were very helpful, thank you for sharing
link1896 4 months ago
@link1896 You're welcome. Way to go!
briansmobile1 4 months ago
Nice video, Thanks for the info
Wish list for next motor pull video:
Point some lights at the engine , th video is really dark under the hood.
Have someone do the camera for you or set it on a tri-pod to get a steady shots
I will probably be pulling the motor on my Outback down the road sometime.
Just throwing out suggestions to make your vids even better than they already are.
Thanks again
EL34XYZ 4 months ago
Just developed rod knock on my Imprezaz OBS :(. Will be doing this soon...
sweetlikeADAM 5 months ago
@sweetlikeADAM Sorry man- bummer deal.
briansmobile1 5 months ago
Lol I thought it was just a coincidence you said that...Go WHEEZY!!
freakskater655 5 months ago
@freakskater655 That guy is a genius of creativeness.
briansmobile1 5 months ago
I have a question for you I just did my head gaskets and while I did that I had the timing belt and water pump changed.. anyways.. I ran into a weird issue and the first person I figured would know is you.. my car is a 97 OBW.. the belt tensioner that puts pressure on the belt when I tighten it to 29 ft-lb like the FSM it no longer pivots up or down.. is that normal? I also have another question regarding the timing belt and how my passenger side keeps moving 1-2 teeth off installing last pulley
SubaruB4RSK 6 months ago
@SubaruB4RSK It MUST pivot- somethings missing (washer or bushing) for it to not move. As for the two teeth- use a paint pen to mark the belt AT the timing marks (most are marked from the factory) that way you're good for sure. Also don't be shy to turn the cam to get the slack you need to get the belt on. You've seen my "Subaru 2.5l Timing Belt Replacement (2002 Forester) How to" video right?
briansmobile1 6 months ago
@briansmobile1
well you know what it was? it was the sleeve on the new one and the bolt.. I had to swap the old stuff in the new one and it worked fine.. Engine has been in the car since Monday :) It was pretty fun to work on.
SubaruB4RSK 6 months ago
@SubaruB4RSK Way to go man! Good job! That's one of those things where a picture is worth a thousand words.
briansmobile1 6 months ago
Nicely done man, im about to tackle this one on my car.
jedocampo 6 months ago
@jedocampo Thanks. Enjoy the project!
briansmobile1 6 months ago
do you have a video of leaving the block in the car & just replacing the head gasket? Can this be done? would you recommend this?
All that needs to be done is the HG?
laurielaskowski 6 months ago
@laurielaskowski I don't. I'm not a fan of doing it that way. It deffinately CAN be done though. I've done it before as have many others. I'm a lot faster if I pull the motor.
briansmobile1 6 months ago
Hmm you seem like a slow and expensive mechanic..
ear4perfection 7 months ago
@ear4perfection You'd think so when watching a step by step narration wouldn't you? I charge flat rate and am about half what a dealer charges. I'm 40-60% efficient even when I film and I'm 160% efficient when I'm not filming.
briansmobile1 7 months ago
Sorry, "hard" to seperate.
imporacer 7 months ago
Awesome video man! Question, it is hard to seperate the block from the tranny? I heard that it's pretty to separate them.
imporacer 7 months ago
you can get to the torque converter bolts just by removing the throttle body you dont have to remove the whole intake just have a steady hand
geckopals4ever 7 months ago
@geckopals4ever You're right. And live'n the danger life! Yeah!
briansmobile1 7 months ago
how long should it typically take to get the engine out? how long does it take to replace the head gasket if you were to leave the engine in the car?
perkinstouch 7 months ago
@perkinstouch Takes an hour or two to pull. If you leave it in it takes an extra 3-4 hours.
briansmobile1 7 months ago
what type heads do the ej25d have? i have to replace the exhaust studs bc they came out when i tried to take them out. so what type of adhesive would i have to use?
hxcpunkforlife 7 months ago
@hxcpunkforlife I'm not sure I understand the question? EJ25D's take EJ25D heads. If the exhaust studs came out (normally) you just reinsert them with blue Loctite on the threads. If you pulled them out COLD and ripped the threads out- then you need to tap for bigger threads or use a heli-coil kit on it. If you're getting new heads then don't worry about it.
briansmobile1 7 months ago
@briansmobile1 i was asking if the heads are aluminum or steel. . . also the studs have bad thread damage so i was replacing the studs anyway
hxcpunkforlife 7 months ago
@hxcpunkforlife Yes the heads are aluminum. Cool.
briansmobile1 7 months ago
@hxcpunkforlife thank you
hxcpunkforlife 7 months ago
@hxcpunkforlife You're welcome
briansmobile1 7 months ago
bookmarked awesome vid!
kylebielaproductions 7 months ago
@kylebielaproductions ha ha YESSSS glad I could help.
briansmobile1 7 months ago
would this be the same procedure for a Subarus EJ22 manual engine ??
filoprince 8 months ago
@filoprince Same exact principles/steps just no torque converter issue. I would still pull the intake because it's so easy and usually has to come off later if you're pulling the heads, but you don't have to.
briansmobile1 8 months ago
Thanks for the vid, Brian. Got the Forester's motor out tonight, spent an hour and a half on the driver's side bottom stud (engine to trans). What's the suggested method of getting it out? We had the CV shaft in the way, so getting any kind of leverage on it was incredibly difficult.
Couldn't have done it without this vid though. Thanks!
theheineken 8 months ago
@theheineken I support the trans, but the studs stay in the motor. You're welcome. Thanks for posting.
briansmobile1 8 months ago
@briansmobile1 Yeah, but the nut on that stud had only two inches of room behind it, with no room to turn a breaker bar or ratchet. Basically, my question was what is the easiest way to get the nut off the driver's side bottom stud? Unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the tranny?
theheineken 8 months ago
@theheineken I pull that nut from below after pulling the starter, but before lifting the motor. I use a ratcheting box wrench, or sometimes a swivel handle ratchet and socket.
briansmobile1 8 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I am replacing a head gasket on a 98 Forester 2.5. I don't want to put a OEM gasket back in. What is the best head gasket for this engine and where should I get it? btw I am in the same county as you.
n7mlq 9 months ago
I am replacing a head gasket on a 98 Forester 2.5. I don't want to put a OEM gasket back in. What is the best head gasket for this engine and where should I get it? btw I am in the same county as you.
n7mlq 9 months ago
@n7mlq I like Fel-pro. Others that I know like six star.
briansmobile1 8 months ago
Thanks for the video I have a 97 outback that I need to pull the motor from for the headgaskets but I don't think I need to remove the intake manifold in the car until the motor is out right?
SubaruB4RSK 9 months ago
@SubaruB4RSK I recomend it for sure. it's just easier
briansmobile1 9 months ago
thanks i had the hood off the car lol. Thanks again keep up the killer vids!
smokey756 9 months ago
@smokey756 You're welcome. Will do.
briansmobile1 9 months ago
hey brian i am trying to get a blown up ej25 legacy together and i cant figure out where the 2 hoses on the valve covers go too? if u coulf help me out with that that would be great!
smokey756 9 months ago
@smokey756 Look at the bottom side of your hood. It will have a diagram for the PCV system hose routing. They go to the baffle box/air filter box.
briansmobile1 9 months ago
All finally finished! Japanese replacement #2 is in and purring like a kitten. The importers were kind enough to give me a replacement under warrant. Now I have my old block sitting there, do you have any suggestions on what I should do with it? is it worth selling?
Thank for your instructional video, if we get another year out of that car because of the engine swap, we'll have you to thank.
dmonkfunk 10 months ago
@dmonkfunk The used ones are worth between $200- $500 to a re builder.
briansmobile1 10 months ago
Thanks for posting. I just pulled one from a 99 Forester; first time FWD for me. I watched this before and again afterwards - I should have watched it twice before...
Mine's a manual and I was able to leave the intake on until the motor was out. Since I'm doing a head-gasket job it's possible I could have left the intake on. Of course the bolts would have to come out but the electrical & hoses could remain.
Other: There was only one motor-mount bolt, starter bolts were both 14mm.
hashdfw 1 year ago
@hashdfw You're welcome.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
Comment removed
hashdfw 1 year ago
Brian, great video. I am taking the engine out on my wrx but I am not having luck in separating the engine from the trans... any additional tricks?
y2mouse 1 year ago
@y2mouse Look for more bolts! Some of them have four extra bolts on them. Two on each side. Also you have to support the trans and lift high enough to clear the motor mount bolts from the cross member cradle.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
Hahaha riiMz*~ on your creeper. 'Gotta love Wheezy too!
sweetlikeADAM 1 year ago
Would you believe my replacement Japanese engine blew a head gasket, not even through my first test! The dealer has offered me a replacement, but all the effort to put it in was a waste. The block had some chalky residue, and even though I tried to flush the crap out as soon as I had run the engine for a few minutes, I filed my rad so full that the coolant flushing pros said it couldn't be recovered. The good news is all the bolts and clamps I took off the first time will be easier to deal with.
dmonkfunk 1 year ago
@dmonkfunk sheesh!
briansmobile1 1 year ago
@briansmobile1 Would you replace the head gaskets, or would you go for the replacement JDM offered by the dealer? I'm just mechanical enough to do the engine swap, and even then, I don't think I did such a hot job on the egr drilling as I couldn't get a real positive seat on the new tapped hole on the block. I am quite nervy about tackling the head gasket, but not too excited about doing an engine swap over again either, especially since I have to truck the broke block an hour away to get it.
dmonkfunk 1 year ago
@dmonkfunk I opt for the head gasket job. It's way more cost effective and not a whole lot harder to do once the motor is out.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
@briansmobile1 Thanks for the advice, now, I have 2 engine blocks here now.. the original with 230k on it but I know it has never overheated, and the new Japanese one that has 20k or so, but I overheated it bad enough to cook the headgasket. which one is the better bet (the Jap one was considerably stronger before it went)
dmonkfunk 1 year ago
@dmonkfunk Can't say for sure without inspecting it, but probably the Japanese one is a better bet on the block itself. Better rings and bearings etc. Just as long as it stayed straight in the block dept.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
Malls . My heads were warped from running hot but not too expensive to get decked and even did valves since 170k on the car. briansmobile1 was an awesome resource. I wish you had videos of you doing the whole rebuild. Nonetheless tremendous help and awesome instruction!
PhilGillis 1 year ago
@PhilGillis I've got videos for about everything. Check on my channel. T-belt, head torq, piston pulling, block splitting etc. My videos are limited to 15 min. Thanks for watching!
briansmobile1 1 year ago
Thanks . I'll try to go back with the ratting wrench. Just waiting on new timing idlers, tensioner and belt and it's going back in the car. It has really been fun to work on. I was dreading it but I don't know why now.
PhilGillis 1 year ago
@PhilGillis Ya SUBBIES have a real intuitive design. They're built to be easily serviced. You can even plug and play between the 2.2l and 2.5l motors.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
Thanks for the video. I pulled the engine on a 98 forester replaced the rear main seal and the infamous oil separator plate. This video was very helpful. We were able to remove the flex plate bolts without pulling the intake manifold, but it was a tight squeeze.
fisheriesbiologist 1 year ago
@fisheriesbiologist Good job guys!
briansmobile1 1 year ago
@briansmobile1 Do you have to undo the bolts on the transmission mount? I've got her all undressed and the block hooked up, bolts out of the flex plate, both mounts - 4 bolts to the transmission. I'm ready.. I just have that last question before she comes out.
dmonkfunk 1 year ago
@dmonkfunk I like to unbolt the trans mount in order to lift it up a bit. This helps clear the motor mounts so they come out slick.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
@briansmobile1 I got everything back together, (of course the one thing I forgot was the EGR, which is akward as @%^!+ to get at once the pipes are all bucked in) . Now for the real problem.... there is no heat going to the cabin, and the engine overheats after a little revving.There's some bubbles in the coolant tank.. HG blown? When I got the new block from japan, I noticed there was quite a bit of residue in the passage ways for the coolant. I wonder if the gunk has blocked off something.
dmonkfunk 1 year ago
@dmonkfunk With the engine cold, take off the radiator cap and start it up. If it geysers right away it's a blown head gasket. If the coolant slowly rises with the engine temperature (like normal) then you have a bad thermostat or water pump impeller.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
This video gave me the courage to attempt this with my car. I have a blown head gasket, and the dealer tried to take me to the cleaners. I bought a JDM 2.5 and I'm going to go for it. I've taken out an engine in a boat before, but never anything as complex as this. Shouldn't be bad as long as I take my time, and follow all the steps.
dmonkfunk 1 year ago
All good now. It's out!
PhilGillis 1 year ago
almost there . .trying to figure out how to get the 4 14mm bolts and 2 14mm nuts on the transmission to engine . .stuff is in there hard to reach, torque converter botls out, intake off, starter out, underneath mount nuts, exhaust . .think I just have the trans to motor . .any tips for reaching those and getting them?
PhilGillis 1 year ago
@PhilGillis For the bottom two I use a wratcheting box wrench. I use the wrench in the space where the starter used to be. The one on the pass side I pull kinda the same way.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
@PhilGillis I actually climbed up on the motor an got a bit of leverage on it with a ratchet. The one on the drivers side I used the notch on a ball peen hammer mated to the notch on the end of my ratchet handle. Got both hands on the hammer handle, and could use my body weight to get it started. Congrats on finishing your engine pull.
dmonkfunk 1 year ago
@briansmobile1 I do have the automatic. I was leaning towards leaving it in .but I think your video changed my mind.
PhilGillis 1 year ago
thanks for the great video . .gearing up to do a 99 head gasket and bouncing between pulling and leaving in the car. You make it look easy . .and that scares me :-)
PhilGillis 1 year ago
@PhilGillis It's not too bad. Just don't be shy about pulling the intake off as a unit. you can leave most every thing together on the intake. doing this makes it easier to work with and you Have To if it's an automatic trans.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
@briansmobile1 I do have the automatic. I was leaning towards leaving it in .but I think your video changed my mind.
PhilGillis 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@briansmobile1 I do have the automatic. I was leaning towards leaving it in .but I think your video changed my mind.
PhilGillis 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@briansmobile1 I do have the automatic. I was leaning towards leaving it in .but I think your video changed my mind.
PhilGillis 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@briansmobile1 I do have the automatic. I was leaning towards leaving it in .but I think your video changed my mind.
PhilGillis 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@briansmobile1 I do have the automatic. I was leaning towards leaving it in .but I think your video changed my mind.
PhilGillis 1 year ago
looks fun... how many hours did you have in it?
Zmart032 1 year ago
@Zmart032 It takes me about an hour and a half with club music playing.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
I had to remove one in school, my instructor was pissing me off, he would not let me take the intake manifold off even though you had to, he didn't believe me.
justin3zelda 1 year ago
@justin3zelda On an automatic trans you're best to. Your teachers just trying to help.... bless his heart. (She's so fat she's gonna blow!.... bless her heart) Isn't that a fun and useful phrase? You can say anything before "bless your heart" and get away with it. lol
briansmobile1 1 year ago
@briansmobile1
lol yes you are correct!
justin3zelda 1 year ago
i know ur feeling a tip is to just do what u think is best :) me and a friend had a teacher like urs :) 3/3 times he was wrong >.<
meeckaren 1 year ago
I soaked my exhaust manifold studs for 24 hours with PB and they ended up coming out of the head as the bolt seized to the stud. Got some new studs and retapped the inserts and everything seems to be holding together just fine.
You really need a lift in your shop man!
Reassembly was pretty easy but I missed 2 sensors: the knock sensor and the coolant temp sensor, both of which are towards the back and get hidden easily when you put the intake on.
Flaheat 1 year ago
@Flaheat Alond with soaking, I strongly recommend wire brushing. It's like sweeping gravel off the roller skating ring before skating. Less binding. Sway bar end links always come off easy after doing this vs. being impossible. I'd love a lift, but need to build the new shop 1st. My city won't let me yet. I'm working on it though.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
I'm doing the same thing! (again) just got a 99' outback and a 96 gt wagon. pulling the wagon engine next weekend, just got a DOHC 2.5 into the outback and it works great. this is subaru # 7 for me and all of them were BD chassis (95-99) curently there are 3 subarus in my drive/garage the pretty one is my wifes:) you need and parts or trim pieces from my 96' 2.5 GT wagon?
prodriver1 1 year ago
Why don’t auto manufacturers use stainless steel exhaust manifold bolts if they are so susceptible to rust? Do they really cost that much extra? Or is there some other reason that I’m just not aware of?
watcbd 1 year ago
@watcbd I think the whole "not giving a damn" along with "anything to save 5 cents for the share holders" thing is enough to keep things traditional and cheap. Simply using anti-sieze like they do on O2 sensors would be enough.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
junk car...
TheHondaAbuser 1 year ago
Comment removed
justin3zelda 1 year ago
@TheHondaAbuser To some.
briansmobile1 1 year ago
@TheHondaAbuser better than a honda....
prodriver1 1 year ago
@prodriver1 anything is better than a honda. gm is the best. if you disagree dont reply.
TheHondaAbuser 1 year ago
@TheHondaAbuser WHAT!? subaru is waaaayy better than any cost cutting flimsy plastic truck.
prodriver1 1 year ago
@prodriver1 huh? any new vehicle is cost cutting shit. i would never own anything newer than 77,
TheHondaAbuser 1 year ago