That's why they have the hybrid grade, V14d. It's long and scary enough that almost nobody would do it without a rope, especially with that ledge in the middle of the landing, but it's short enough that a bouldering grade makes a lot of sense.
Nice climb bro, for those of you who have never been to waimea cliff, this is a climb in Rumney, NH. REPRESENT! i highly recomend going to even just look at this wall..its mind-blowing!
And probs to this you dude for climbing that, i was there this summer to climb at vader cliffs(also sick btw) and i nearly cried just looking at the fly.
Look, he got up it, no wieght on the rope- it counts! Ok, so he used a rope, meaning he doesn't crack his ankles if he falls off, big deal, it didnt make any difference to the climb. You should be applauding the guy for sending something so obviously thin and seriously hard, not speaking him down. If ethics mean so much to you, go climb in walking boots tied into a bit of shipping rope round your belt loops, without any chalk or modern gear. Grow up guys.
Dai Koyamada has done an insane amount of boulder problems V13 and higher. He is one of the best in the world for sure, even without his Wheel of life send.
yeah crazy, and to think how much shorter he is compared to these guys.. if you see his send on dreamtime, wow that must have been v16 for him since everything is like 1 foot away compared to sharma on it.
@treebierd - calm down... koyamada is not THAT strong. i mean, clearly he's one of the best in the world, but wheel of life as v16!? chris webb parsons did the 2nd ascent before he had ever sent v15. how could a climb without any moves harder than V12 somehow be v16? it's not. it's 5.14d, as ethan pringle said.
If length of route defines "boulder problem" or "route" then Wheel of Time V16 is a 5.15b route without a rope. At the time of the first ascent no one had bouldered this route so it was given a sport climbing rating. I think Jason Kehl has since bouldered it, so we can call it a V14/5.14d route/problem.
Traditionally, top-roping doesn't really count as free climbing, but here they make a point of keeping a lot of slack in the rope so that no 'help' is gained by the rope. It seems like the TR is only to keep the guy from flying off the ledge behind him. As short as the climb is, I would also stray away from giving it a YDS rating. A Hueco (or 'V') rating would be more appropriate. That said, V14 would be the equivalent, not V12.
A boulder problem? Looks more like a gravity problem.. or more precisely a lack-of-shit-to-hold-on-to problem...
Snoep76239 1 month ago
awesome job! how long does it take to be able to climb that hard?
bzman149 1 year ago
@bzman149 lol a decade for alot of people
paintballpro5050 8 months ago
climb it yourself, then criticise :P
Kemics101 1 year ago
its def a boulder problem, its not even a highball. though a fun climb it looks like.
firstascent1 1 year ago
maikou666 ur just stupid 5.14d is 9a
etiennechausse 2 years ago
i wish i could climb like that
martinmedeski 2 years ago
easy job, for me its like 4a
maikou666 2 years ago
it's sketchy for sure, but it's a boulder problem. rope or not, it's a boulder climb.
boxsterwelby 2 years ago
most of you kids are retarded, you have to go there to understand, the holds make your door frame look like monkey bars, and its overhanging
DutchMasterStatus 2 years ago 3
tough talking you guys but no way your doing a v14 or something
ringdingrenno 2 years ago
That's pretty much a top rope.
louiejack6 2 years ago
yea that area is no joke!!
bxrockstar 2 years ago
yes..nice....
tonytrento 2 years ago
what, give it a bouldering grade its not a sport climb even if you are on a rope. There are some cruxes that are longer then that climb.
davervr6 2 years ago 2
That's why they have the hybrid grade, V14d. It's long and scary enough that almost nobody would do it without a rope, especially with that ledge in the middle of the landing, but it's short enough that a bouldering grade makes a lot of sense.
SomewhatStaid 2 years ago
fuck the french kevin jorgensen bouldered that
JTK239 2 years ago
hard stuff.. but a rope?
chossclimber83 2 years ago 2
Jesus, that looks THIN.
elvis237 3 years ago
Nice climb bro, for those of you who have never been to waimea cliff, this is a climb in Rumney, NH. REPRESENT! i highly recomend going to even just look at this wall..its mind-blowing!
And probs to this you dude for climbing that, i was there this summer to climb at vader cliffs(also sick btw) and i nearly cried just looking at the fly.
berryski 3 years ago
Oh I totally agree, the holds are so small.
Patisthemandotgov 3 years ago
French are good climbers...9A...that's very hard ! I applause !
artkings 3 years ago
what was it boulder or a route?
For a route too short, but there`s no 9a-rated bouldering in the world!
StefanTroll 3 years ago
if you go to the crag, youll se how huge it is, its real big
rockicetrail 3 years ago
umm yea there is. Ali-Hulk is a 9b bouldering problem in spain that was set by dani andrada.
pdxmirage 3 years ago
good stuff...phoque the haterz.
humanchewtoy 3 years ago
Look, he got up it, no wieght on the rope- it counts! Ok, so he used a rope, meaning he doesn't crack his ankles if he falls off, big deal, it didnt make any difference to the climb. You should be applauding the guy for sending something so obviously thin and seriously hard, not speaking him down. If ethics mean so much to you, go climb in walking boots tied into a bit of shipping rope round your belt loops, without any chalk or modern gear. Grow up guys.
juikm 3 years ago 17
F A I L because
1. toproping isn't a send
2. this isn't a 5.14d, it's a 20-foot v14
ElTheJono 3 years ago
very impressive climbing though.
ElTheJono 3 years ago 4
id like you to say that in his face,, sharma too coz he tr-ed that one..
AND, this isnt supposed to be a lead route anyway. its a boulder problem, bolted because of the hideous landing.
honeslty who are you to say that, these guys have spent their whole lives committed into climbing, with ascents that set the limit for climbing,.
Rock0nsight 3 years ago
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wow that was dumb.
ElTheJono 3 years ago
solve a v2 and then talk.
metalwest 3 years ago
v2? everyone and their grandmother boulders at v2 chief.
ElTheJono 3 years ago
my grandma cant climb as hard as u
campusmang 3 years ago
lamest ethics ive ever seen.
iclimb8 3 years ago
since when is top roping a send? Have the standards seriously dropped that low?
lives2live 4 years ago
I think some dude bouldered that piece.
elvis237 3 years ago
who are the other 2 who have sends this? dave graham is one of them right???
enfingret 4 years ago
jason kehl I think. If im not mistaken I think he did it as a boulder problem.
treebierd 4 years ago
thanks. it most scary without a rope, with that landing
enfingret 4 years ago
@treebierd Kevin Jorgeson also sent
781391 1 year ago
yeah the senders so far are tony lamiche, chris sharma, dave graham, and jason kehl.
TankJacked 4 years ago
luke parady apparently sent it
Rock0nsight 3 years ago
@enfingret Kevin Jorgeson bouldered it at the Northeaster
BigPerm5000 1 year ago
@enfingret Kevin Jorgeson has sent it as well
bryantuten 1 year ago
@enfingret Kevin Jorgeson as a boulder problem
BewareOfOranges 10 months ago
i personally don't count wheel of life as bouldering.
TankJacked 4 years ago
Dai Koyamada has done an insane amount of boulder problems V13 and higher. He is one of the best in the world for sure, even without his Wheel of life send.
treebierd 4 years ago
oh fuck yes he's insane.
TankJacked 4 years ago
yeah crazy, and to think how much shorter he is compared to these guys.. if you see his send on dreamtime, wow that must have been v16 for him since everything is like 1 foot away compared to sharma on it.
Rock0nsight 3 years ago
sry but jason kehl dident do the wheel of "LIFE" :P not time lol
CDPuffer 4 years ago
there is no way kehl could hang with dai koyamada haha. I dont think anyone could personally.
treebierd 4 years ago
@treebierd - calm down... koyamada is not THAT strong. i mean, clearly he's one of the best in the world, but wheel of life as v16!? chris webb parsons did the 2nd ascent before he had ever sent v15. how could a climb without any moves harder than V12 somehow be v16? it's not. it's 5.14d, as ethan pringle said.
fackinjacksack 1 year ago
If length of route defines "boulder problem" or "route" then Wheel of Time V16 is a 5.15b route without a rope. At the time of the first ascent no one had bouldered this route so it was given a sport climbing rating. I think Jason Kehl has since bouldered it, so we can call it a V14/5.14d route/problem.
treebierd 4 years ago
Traditionally, top-roping doesn't really count as free climbing, but here they make a point of keeping a lot of slack in the rope so that no 'help' is gained by the rope. It seems like the TR is only to keep the guy from flying off the ledge behind him. As short as the climb is, I would also stray away from giving it a YDS rating. A Hueco (or 'V') rating would be more appropriate. That said, V14 would be the equivalent, not V12.
metrowriter 4 years ago
It's not a 14d if the whole climb is a top rope. A damn hard (v 12) boulder problem. Good climbing, though wrong rating.
climbtraditioinal 4 years ago
i have reäd that they have given the grade v14d or something like that. and they said it is a boulderroute.
enfingret 4 years ago