Petzl.com - The Fly

[niggerlips11]

just live your life

[thejugglingfool]

way to stickt to it man

[grizDG]

yo i got on this problem last weekend n pulled up n stuck the first throw n im a 5.12 climber but haha im a freak when it comes down to crimps n yes pullin off the ground is really hard but im still workin on it and the holds fry ur tips

[nzclimberflipper]

jason kehl has done it with no rope and as you can see in this video tony did toperope this climb but the amount of slack he had there was no way that was aiding his assent of this climb,to rate climbers cant afford to risk breaking their ankles.when you guyscan climb this climb the feel free to leve a comment.and saying that he is insulting the person who did first ascent is insulting tony and others who have done this,its an incredible feet they have done,so dont take it away from them!

[lopside0]

jazzfreek2: I'm not the best climber around either, but I think your priorities are dead wrong if you're so worried about climbing grade that this ascent seems 'ethically unsound.' You shouldn't have to ethically justify what amounts to little more than bragging rights. While you're worried about the number you're climbing, I'm going to keep sending the hardest stuff I can, and I'm going to have a great time doing it.

[jazzfreek2]

Ethics have nothing to do with grades. If someone starts claiming ascents on top-rope it completely negates the effort put in by ascentionists who stick their neck out and climb ground up. If you want to top-rope hard stuff thats fine, just don't claim a repeat if that wasn't the original style of ascent. Its an insult to the climber who risked their ass opening the line originally. And its the beauty of a line that inspires me to climb...grades are just an easy way to quantify.

[sanchn0r]

Ditto what this guy said... you guys are incredibly ignorant if you can't see the point he's making.

IMO: Jason Kehl probably has the purest ascent of this line (with solo repeat by Kevin Jorgeson on April 11th). However, its still not in the original style of the climb. Start from the bottom, clip the first quickdraw, make a couple of moves, clip the second, couple more moves, clip the anchor. DONE. That's the definition of a sport climb send.

[sanchn0r]

I meant to say Ditto what Jazzfreek2 said.

ps: Grade fiends are also extremely annoying and are not fun to climb with. Climb lines that are aesthetically pleasing whether the grade is hard or not. I personally don't care if I climb a 5.12d or a 5.9... However I will admit it does get a bit boring when you're stuck with someone who only wants to climb so-called "classic" 5.7s and 5.8s.

[astrodog11]

I want to apologize - I see what you're saying. However, stickclipping is considered acceptable at Rumney. DG on the FA clipped two bolts (facing groundfall). Some subsequent ascents have simply clipped the second bolt, so in effect, the crux is top roped. Still, shades of grey...it's not properly a lead, not properly a TR, really not a solo, and not even a boulder problem in the sense that "good style" still mandates TR rehearsal.

[jazzfreek2]

Asshole

[peakrr]

Shortest 'route' I've ever seen. How many tries did he need? I'm building a site for climbers. Google 'peakr' to check it out. Please register.

[jazzfreek2]

I agree, its just a highball boulder problem. I wouldn't even consider that a proper ascent as it was essentially top-roped and not led. In Ireland we'd inspect on top-rope and do the ascent ground-up.

[Itstoearly]

The reason this is rarely bouldered is because the landing is terrible, and begs for broken ankles or worse. A few feet behind where you stand to start, the ground drops away to a cluster of large rocks. I was told Chris Sharma bouldered it, though (and almost flashed it, too).

[jazzfreek2]

Sufficient padding and spotters would probably take the sting out of the landing (though, admittedly, i've never been there). It just seems far too short to be claimed as an actual "route". Even if it is classed as a route, the only ethically sound type of ascent is ground-up, NOT on top-rope.

[astrodog11]

The Fly has never seen a ground up ascent. All who have sent have used a rope, if not for the climb, for reconaissance. Jason Kehl, the first to make a ropeless ascent did some landscaping prior to sending, and used several big pads.

Still want to criticize Lamiche? Sharma sent the same way (albeit it took him fewer tries). Some advice, jazzfreek2 - STFU until you can climb comparably well...bet you couldn't even pull your feet off the ground, even if you trained for it your whole life!

[jazzfreek2]

Inspecting on top-rope is fine, but claiming an ascent on top-rope is just ethically unsound no matter who you are. Kehl did make a ground-up ascent, just not an onsight. I'm not the best climber around (F6c/7a) but I've never claimed an ascent of a route I've only toproped. If the landing is dodgy, that should be reflected in the grade as a bold ascent. BTW, the "Asshole" comment was left in response to some jerk-off spammer, whose comment has since been removed.

[brkarma]

tbh if you're around F6c/7a you should just stfu...