@bajajpilot My Bullet has an aftermarket oil sponge air filter. You just wash it out in soapy water, let it dry, and spray filter oil on it. I'm not sure how the stock airbox worked on the bike, as the previous owner removed it before I got the bike.
@sancak0099 I accidentally said that the spark plug fires when the point gap closes. It actually fires when the point gap opens. I put an annotation on the video for people to read, but some people don't see it.
I am wondering if you incorrectly stated the spark ignites when the points close? My understanding is the spark occurs when the points separate. Point gap is set with the cam at high point touching the point feeler and adjusting to your .0015 setting. "Misfiring" seems to imply the point gap is out of adjustment in the sense the point gap may be too narrow or too wide, thus affecting the spark performance....I have a 1968 Norton Atlas that is giving me a huge problem in adjusting the timing.
@tomwalters You're right. I got it mixed up when I was shooting the video. I realized it after the video was already published, and I put a caption over it to clear up the mistake.
Hi Hoobs, If you are between marks or in an awkward place on the TDC tool you can thread it in or out of the spark plug hole to line up a convenient mark. You can also get a tool (basically a large washer) from Hitchcocks in the UK to lock the points at fully advanced then set the engine at 8mm(or 32 degrees) BTDC so timing it in the fully advance position where most of the running is done. Hope this helps. Cheers great vid.
You'd allso like to grease the felt, or behind the felt, so it soakes with the grease and always leaves a thin film on the cam. That's what this ting is meant for.
@late95 It could be the problem. It's easy to take the cover off and look at it as you kick the engine over. If there's a very small gap, you need to open the points up a bit. It could also be a fouled spark plug, weak coil, or bad spark plug wire.
@gordonemoore I paid $3 for mine when I ordered it a couple of months ago. They've been having some really good deals this year. Their clearance section is really good too. Sometimes they're giving things away. They will even sell you a potato for $3.50. Seriously, go to their website and do a search for Potato. I don't know why it's there, but I'm tempted to order one.
@hoohoohoblin I did. Holy cow. I've been a bike mechanic for forty years and that's a new one on me. Exhaust pipe decoke? Maye you're supposed to eat it for strength to pull a wire brush through the pipe. Darned expensive potato anyway, and a bad customer review to boot. Heh.
Thank you, I'm the proud owner of a Bullet 500 with cozy sidecar setup, but I'm new at this. My bullet started messing up, so starting with the points and timing. I was still a little confused at the manual, your video put it all in simple terms for me. Thanks again.
One more and I'll quit. I have the aftermarket Ace Air Canister. It's not as solidly mounted as the stock air cleaner box and lets the carb blow out of the manifold. With the VERY solidly mounted stock airbox, it'll blow a hole in the manifold rubber when it backfires and cause a permanent air leak. I can start the bike 99 times out of 100 without it doing that, but it's a, er, Royal pain.:)
I've got about four feet of snow here and it's too cold now, but come spring I'll figure out how set the timing on my Bullet at full advance and let you know. My timing needs checking - sometimes it kicks back while starting and backfires and blows the carburetor right out of the manifold rubber. The air turns blue for yards around as well. Heh .I can and have put it back together in 5 minutes in front of the supermarket using the RE tool kit.
Old BSAs and Triumphs didn't have timing marks either before about '68 so we learned to use a special half-time degree wheel that fit in the center of the point cam. Alternatively, we could use a screwdriver in the plug hole with marks inscribed on it for TDC and full advance. Static timing is best set at full advance or a worn advance unit might throw the timing too far advanced and blow a hole in the piston. It's not practical on the RE but be aware.
@gordonemoore Hi, Hitchcocks here in the UK sell a special washer/tool so you can lock the points cam in the fully advanced position. I think they are about £5 OR £6 GBP. I made a TDC tool from an old spark plug with the centre knocked out and a bolt which a friend marked in MM increments for me with one extra line 0.8 mm above the TDC line. I just bring it up to TDC and turn the plug to line up with the line. drop it back a half revolution then back up to the 0.8 mark. Simple. Part 2 next
@notwocdivad Thank you. My old Tri/BSA setup has a special washer to do that. In a pinch you can bend a flat washer slightly concave and it will do the same thing. Spend the fiver on fun! (wink). I made a similar TDC finder, no marks. Rotate engine one way 'til it stops, move degree wheel so pointer is at TDC, rotate engine the other way 'til it stops, move degree wheel so pointer is halfway from where it stops to TDC. Marks are a good idea. I like timing in degrees when I can.
In a pinch, you can put a piece of cellophane from a cigarette pack between the points. Rotate the engine and when the cello pulls out, the points have opened. I use a Yamaha points checker that I've had for forty years.
The condenser is to prevent counterflow voltage. If you get a misfire, check for arcing between the points indicating a bad condenser. It'll be obvious - you can darn near READ by it!
The absence of factory timing marks on these things means you have to know what you're doing.
The timing tool is good and I think I'll get one. Don't worry so much about it hitting the gas tank. It might damage the PISTON. I use a dial indicator.
Don't BACK the engine to the firing point. Always come UP in the direction of engine rotation. This takes up the slack caused by any wear as if it were running.
Put a drop of oil on the point cam spindle and make sure the cam moves freely and returns easily.
Thanks once again.Coil is indeed charging when circuit is closed, sparks when high voltage from the coil is released after circuit break, points open. Found that with real Indian Enfield the backplate not only rotates, but also moves up and down, left and right, in all directions difficult to adjust. Suggest to add rubber cover over the point cover, it helped me getting through the Himalayas without any problems. cheers
Some years ago I had the RE500E. I had the same TDC tool but found it very fiddley to use. I converted an old spark plug to take a dial indicator and that made the job much easier. I knocked out the ceramic centre from the plug and my M&R dial indicator fitted perfectly. Love the sound of the RE500.
Hey Brian, Muchous Gracias ... for this VID and posting it out here so quick!
It actually helps me realize how skilled this effort could be...In India they say when u ride a Bullet and if you know how to set the ignition timing all perfect without misfires ...you are then considered or assumed as a PRO or equivalent to be aRIDER cum MECHANIC! I had similar issues with my bike that rufused to fire & with me experimenting it ,messed & advanced the darn thing!Finally lost patience got a mechanic!
@shibu2020 You're welcome. I agree it makes sense to have an expert set the timing for you, and then after that you can maintain the point gap yourself. Getting the timing right on a Royal Enfield Bullet is the tricky part.
pls add about airfilter cleaning..
bajajpilot 1 month ago
@bajajpilot My Bullet has an aftermarket oil sponge air filter. You just wash it out in soapy water, let it dry, and spray filter oil on it. I'm not sure how the stock airbox worked on the bike, as the previous owner removed it before I got the bike.
hoohoohoblin 1 month ago
2 person didnt like it,so we wanna understand it whats wrong on this video?
sancak0099 1 month ago
@sancak0099 I accidentally said that the spark plug fires when the point gap closes. It actually fires when the point gap opens. I put an annotation on the video for people to read, but some people don't see it.
hoohoohoblin 1 month ago
I really enjoy your RE videos, thanks for sharing.
MattSR500 2 months ago
@MattSR500 Thanks!
hoohoohoblin 2 months ago
I am wondering if you incorrectly stated the spark ignites when the points close? My understanding is the spark occurs when the points separate. Point gap is set with the cam at high point touching the point feeler and adjusting to your .0015 setting. "Misfiring" seems to imply the point gap is out of adjustment in the sense the point gap may be too narrow or too wide, thus affecting the spark performance....I have a 1968 Norton Atlas that is giving me a huge problem in adjusting the timing.
tomwalters 2 months ago
@tomwalters You're right. I got it mixed up when I was shooting the video. I realized it after the video was already published, and I put a caption over it to clear up the mistake.
hoohoohoblin 2 months ago
its still not clear, as m getting the frequent stops in or kickbacks so how this will help me plz lemme know
wolverine10066 3 months ago
Hi Hoobs, If you are between marks or in an awkward place on the TDC tool you can thread it in or out of the spark plug hole to line up a convenient mark. You can also get a tool (basically a large washer) from Hitchcocks in the UK to lock the points at fully advanced then set the engine at 8mm(or 32 degrees) BTDC so timing it in the fully advance position where most of the running is done. Hope this helps. Cheers great vid.
notwocdivad 3 months ago
@notwocdivad Good stuff. Thanks!
hoohoohoblin 3 months ago
are royal enfield bullets there in USA too?
HisHighnessKing 4 months ago
@HisHighnessKing Royal Enfields are in the USA, but not in every state. They just became available in California in 2010.
hoohoohoblin 4 months ago
@hoohoohoblin okay thanks for the Info.
HisHighnessKing 4 months ago
TDC finder? I use a stick...
thra5herxb12s 5 months ago
@thra5herxb12s A stick works! The TDC finder I was using is just a fancy stick with lines on it.
hoohoohoblin 5 months ago
You'd allso like to grease the felt, or behind the felt, so it soakes with the grease and always leaves a thin film on the cam. That's what this ting is meant for.
grumbern 6 months ago
@grumbern Good advice. Thanks.
hoohoohoblin 6 months ago
sorry, but you said " spark is fired when points are closed" points closed the coil is charging!
plug fires points open....
johnobd 7 months ago
great post..thanks for sharing..will try after the rains.. monsoons started in India..
ramamoorthyh 9 months ago
Do you think my points a re dameged cause my bike should go around 45 kph but its going 35kph and its all arond lazy
late95 10 months ago
@late95 It could be the problem. It's easy to take the cover off and look at it as you kick the engine over. If there's a very small gap, you need to open the points up a bit. It could also be a fouled spark plug, weak coil, or bad spark plug wire.
hoohoohoblin 10 months ago
@hoohoohoblin only problem its under the magneto cover so i have to buy a special tool for 10 € but thats not too bad if it fixes it
late95 10 months ago
Hiya, Hoohoo - I just ordered the TDC finder from Nfield Gear. They have them on sale for $3. Oil filters on sale as well, $3.98.
gordonemoore 10 months ago
@gordonemoore I paid $3 for mine when I ordered it a couple of months ago. They've been having some really good deals this year. Their clearance section is really good too. Sometimes they're giving things away. They will even sell you a potato for $3.50. Seriously, go to their website and do a search for Potato. I don't know why it's there, but I'm tempted to order one.
hoohoohoblin 10 months ago
@hoohoohoblin I did. Holy cow. I've been a bike mechanic for forty years and that's a new one on me. Exhaust pipe decoke? Maye you're supposed to eat it for strength to pull a wire brush through the pipe. Darned expensive potato anyway, and a bad customer review to boot. Heh.
gordonemoore 10 months ago
Thank you, I'm the proud owner of a Bullet 500 with cozy sidecar setup, but I'm new at this. My bullet started messing up, so starting with the points and timing. I was still a little confused at the manual, your video put it all in simple terms for me. Thanks again.
teamsgt96 11 months ago
@teamsgt96 You're welcome. I'm glad it helped.
hoohoohoblin 11 months ago
One more and I'll quit. I have the aftermarket Ace Air Canister. It's not as solidly mounted as the stock air cleaner box and lets the carb blow out of the manifold. With the VERY solidly mounted stock airbox, it'll blow a hole in the manifold rubber when it backfires and cause a permanent air leak. I can start the bike 99 times out of 100 without it doing that, but it's a, er, Royal pain.:)
gordonemoore 1 year ago
@gordonemoore Great comments! The backfiring is scary, but I'd love to see what it looks like. If you get it on video, post it on YouTube.
hoohoohoblin 1 year ago
@hoohoohoblin I can't see it but I sure as s**t can hear it! I'm not going to try to get it to do it on purpose, you instigator! Ha!
gordonemoore 1 year ago
I've got about four feet of snow here and it's too cold now, but come spring I'll figure out how set the timing on my Bullet at full advance and let you know. My timing needs checking - sometimes it kicks back while starting and backfires and blows the carburetor right out of the manifold rubber. The air turns blue for yards around as well. Heh .I can and have put it back together in 5 minutes in front of the supermarket using the RE tool kit.
gordonemoore 1 year ago
Old BSAs and Triumphs didn't have timing marks either before about '68 so we learned to use a special half-time degree wheel that fit in the center of the point cam. Alternatively, we could use a screwdriver in the plug hole with marks inscribed on it for TDC and full advance. Static timing is best set at full advance or a worn advance unit might throw the timing too far advanced and blow a hole in the piston. It's not practical on the RE but be aware.
gordonemoore 1 year ago
@gordonemoore Hi, Hitchcocks here in the UK sell a special washer/tool so you can lock the points cam in the fully advanced position. I think they are about £5 OR £6 GBP. I made a TDC tool from an old spark plug with the centre knocked out and a bolt which a friend marked in MM increments for me with one extra line 0.8 mm above the TDC line. I just bring it up to TDC and turn the plug to line up with the line. drop it back a half revolution then back up to the 0.8 mark. Simple. Part 2 next
notwocdivad 11 months ago
@notwocdivad Thank you. My old Tri/BSA setup has a special washer to do that. In a pinch you can bend a flat washer slightly concave and it will do the same thing. Spend the fiver on fun! (wink). I made a similar TDC finder, no marks. Rotate engine one way 'til it stops, move degree wheel so pointer is at TDC, rotate engine the other way 'til it stops, move degree wheel so pointer is halfway from where it stops to TDC. Marks are a good idea. I like timing in degrees when I can.
gordonemoore 11 months ago
In a pinch, you can put a piece of cellophane from a cigarette pack between the points. Rotate the engine and when the cello pulls out, the points have opened. I use a Yamaha points checker that I've had for forty years.
The condenser is to prevent counterflow voltage. If you get a misfire, check for arcing between the points indicating a bad condenser. It'll be obvious - you can darn near READ by it!
The absence of factory timing marks on these things means you have to know what you're doing.
gordonemoore 1 year ago
Pretty good, but a coupla points to consider:
The timing tool is good and I think I'll get one. Don't worry so much about it hitting the gas tank. It might damage the PISTON. I use a dial indicator.
Don't BACK the engine to the firing point. Always come UP in the direction of engine rotation. This takes up the slack caused by any wear as if it were running.
Put a drop of oil on the point cam spindle and make sure the cam moves freely and returns easily.
I'm going to run out of characters.
gordonemoore 1 year ago
Thanks once again.Coil is indeed charging when circuit is closed, sparks when high voltage from the coil is released after circuit break, points open. Found that with real Indian Enfield the backplate not only rotates, but also moves up and down, left and right, in all directions difficult to adjust. Suggest to add rubber cover over the point cover, it helped me getting through the Himalayas without any problems. cheers
marcderveeuw 1 year ago
Some years ago I had the RE500E. I had the same TDC tool but found it very fiddley to use. I converted an old spark plug to take a dial indicator and that made the job much easier. I knocked out the ceramic centre from the plug and my M&R dial indicator fitted perfectly. Love the sound of the RE500.
goinghomesomeday1 1 year ago
Hey Brian, Muchous Gracias ... for this VID and posting it out here so quick!
It actually helps me realize how skilled this effort could be...In India they say when u ride a Bullet and if you know how to set the ignition timing all perfect without misfires ...you are then considered or assumed as a PRO or equivalent to be aRIDER cum MECHANIC! I had similar issues with my bike that rufused to fire & with me experimenting it ,messed & advanced the darn thing!Finally lost patience got a mechanic!
shibu2020 1 year ago
@shibu2020 You're welcome. I agree it makes sense to have an expert set the timing for you, and then after that you can maintain the point gap yourself. Getting the timing right on a Royal Enfield Bullet is the tricky part.
hoohoohoblin 1 year ago
Comment removed
jemglen 1 year ago
Enjoyed your vid , Only thing i could add is that normaly the plug fire's when point's open rather than when they close . But very interesting .
terence20001 1 year ago
@terence20001 You're right. I always get that mixed up. I'll put a notation in the video. Thanks for pointing it out.
hoohoohoblin 1 year ago
wow never seen it done before. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing
WildBill1006 1 year ago