Added: 1 year ago
From: flubyux2
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  • Buddy that mailbox intake is brutal especially with no IAC second having no roundness or a square plenum gives that intake the flow characteristics of a shoe box. Quit wasting time and money on all that bolt on crap. A simple t4 would have given much better results

  • its not starting cuz u got no gas lol

  • nice to see someone who doesn't take shortcuts on a 7m motor mad props yo

  • sounds like a damn muscle car lmao

  • Thats a great car, well done. If my old MZ21 Soarer turns out half as good I will be happy.

  • rock on i love the 7m motors.and as for doomed from the factory.were the hell did u come up with that. bad head gasket maybe,and if u cant fix that u dont need a supra anyways

  • @MrIcantthinkofaname1 yeah, toyota thought that 54ft/lb on the head bolts was ok. so when the car knocks or makes any extra cylinder pressure, it pushes past the fire rings. if you find a car with an good hg & do a retorque to 75ft/lb, itll be likely to last a very long time, as long as you dont knock excessivly. the oil system is also flawed. the oil pump pickup is 14mm from the bottom of the pan; too high. the pressure bleed goes to the cooler & dumps back to the pan sorod knock is very common

  • @flubyux2 what did u do to get past the oil pump issue?

  • @flubyux2 Will my 7mgte get a rod knock if I do not replace the oil pump? I do not know if the person that I bought it from had updated the oil pump... Where is the Oil pump located?

  • Can you please tell me what electric fans do you have...?? any overheating problem....and how you made it work please and thank you

  • @kingcar1 i think he says their out of a ford cougar, he doesn't specify a year though. Cheers.

  • @kingcar1 He's right, the ford mondeo, contour and cougar use these fans. The last generation of the cougar uses these. Google it and you'll find more specifics. Ford used massive fans to bandaid poor cooling systems. And tight engine bays. If you stand behind the car when the fans come on, you can feel hot air blasting your legs. The wiring was complicated because I used the efan wiring already in the car. I had to change the t-switch and add a 2nd relay cuz the new switch reversed polarity

  • @flubyux2 do you have any problems with it?

  • @spec4657 thats funny iv seen alot of supras both mk3 and mk4 with no back seats but flubyux2 explained to me why he didn't want to do that, damn u make it seem like a bad thing to like hondas lol i'm a car enthusiast i like all cars well, some more then others but u know what i mean lol.

  • lol do you enjoy doing your own wiring, and custom "fiddling", lol and you took out the back seat belts but lets the buckets in to save weight?... very nice build though and you know what your doing. keep it up =]

  • if you blueprinted, manufactured, and sold that FFIM, 7M owners would love you, me included. Currently recovering from bhg, my dream is to have a standalone t51r, ffim, +0.4L stroke n +0.1 overbore 7M, but thats nowhere anytime soon.

    in my plans i have the lexus v8 afm, 550cc injectors, a mk4 supra walbro 255L/hr fuel pump, 3.5' straight pipe on a 57 trim or 60-1 ct26, @ 12 - 15 psi. wut else would u recomend? also, whats an easy standalone system to start off with?

  • No need for 2j. This 7m is awesome

  • @500hpb20 Thanks. I appreciate the kind words sir.

  • 2jz is the way to go,

    ur a jew

  • @AlbuynoRyen0 Yes... I'm a Jew because I know how to build a 7m that DOESN'T blow up. I'm a Jew because I didn't take the easy way out of just bolting in another motor. I'm a Jew because I like the tactile pleasure of assembling an engine from scratch. Don't hate cuz I don't just talk about it and I'm actually about it.

  • @flubyux2 I feel as though, if one is going to build up a motor why not do it "right". The 7M, from the factory, is a doomed motor. Love you.

  • @AlbuynoRyen0 It's doomed when it's stock. When it's built, it's just as strong as the 2j. But since I don't plan on exceeding 900rwhp, ever, a 2j swap is moot. Plus, a built 7m (cp, crower, bc, ferrea, etc) is the same price as a 2j swap. I personally am old school and a purist. Plus, I prefer the diesely/cummins noise that the pent-roof, clover leaf combustion chamber makes in the 7m.

  • @AlbuynoRyen0 I can think of only 2 cons about the 7m from factory, wrong torq specs and very low boost...other wise a great motor

  • @flubyux2 These kids go out buy an old mk3, or get an old jdm 7m do nothing but new headstuds and bolt ons, max the boost or even put bigger turbos on then cry when they spin a bearing or blow a head gasket and call this motor a turd. Or even professionals screwing up a tune and running afrs over 12.1 for "agression" and causing mad detonation resulting in what? Another blown headgasket. Kids these days are two lazy for this kinda work man. Mad probs, kudos. Your 7m is beast!

  • I just got a forward facing intake manifold for my 7mgte and i was wondering about the Idle speed control sensor, can you delete? i have also seen it called the idle air control valve. what did you do to remove it and can you do so with the factory ecu

  • @xletitride4lifex yes, you can delete it. I'm not running mine anymore. The stock ecu will still run the engine just fine without it. Even using the Ac and ps will still be ok as long as you set the base idle/throttle stop on the tb high enough. I don't have any fault codes or check engine lights from it either. To remove it, I just unbolted every tube and hose and left the electrical plug tucked under the intake manifold. I have a new air intake pipe with no nipples at all.

  • HOW DID YOU NOT USE THE AIRFLOW METER???

  • @redsamuraidragon Standalone computer

  • @redsamuraidragon I'm using a Map-ecu made by performance motor research based in new Zealand. Power House Racing is the US distributor for them. It's about $300 new. Its programmable via laptop with their software using a serial cable (or certain serial/USB adapters). It's good up to 30psi. Uses on-the-fly tuning capability and datalogging. It also allows you to feed wide band o2 sensor signal into it and log that over the boost/rpm curves to help compare where you need to add or subtract fuel

  • @redsamuraidragon Btw, it's just a piggy back not a full stand alone. I still have the stock 7m ecu running the timing and other functions like stock.

  • @flubyux2 Right on. Which piggy back system did you use??

    I have a lexus AFM and stock fuel system. I havnt ran the car since installing hte lexus afm.

    I heard it will run a little lean, but the computer will autocorrect it and that the only place I have to worry about low air fuel ratios is on WOT.... I couldnt find a 7mgte afm, and I eventually wanted to upgrade.

    I figure I need to up the fuel pressure, or get bigger injectors, or both.

    I have a mk2 with a 7mgte. Dont need alot of power.

  • (cont.) i was wondering if you could help me out by perhaps sending some pics or making a quick vid if you ever have your engine apart again of how the vaccuum lines are hooked up under the intake manifold when EGR has been removed, IF you have any of those original lines left that is..... its been a while since i took everything apart, and i quite literally dont remember how they were, and they were not in full original formation so TSRM cant help, but visually i may be able to decipher it

  • thats a very nice mk3 build, everything thought out, even giving the small details more importance than others have. thats nice to see.

    ive got an '89 mk3 7m turbo targa as well, but i had a bhg, fixed that with oem gasket for now with arp studs @ 90 ft./lbs., but I havent gotten the chance to put the rest back together after I got the head back on. My engine unfortunately was hacked up, tuned, then de-tuned half-assidly and sold to the lucky buyer... me.

    i love it regardless (continued)

  • @enigmaPL Thanks for the kind words and appreciation. I'm glad you're able to get yours together too. As far as removing the egr system, mine was taken off about 6yrs ago along with every other bit of emissions control. This car doesn't really ever see public highways *ahem* lol. I don't have a single bit of factory vacuum hose or solenoids or vsv's, hardlines, brackets, or crossover tubes/Pcv. The only vacuum lines are what you see running from the Golden Eagle vac block attached to the intake

  • Basiclly this car is barely together and running and is probably not going to be that reliable. Maybe its just me being judgemental but it seems pretty hacked together.

  • @GK0003 Clearly you have no idea what you're talking about. This car has been in this current state since 2005. I built this motor in 2004 for a friend who went 1jz and donated this as payment. It's seen a 60-1 ct26, an sp63 and now back on a stock ct at 17psi daily. If it was hacked together, you'd see parts missing, bolts missing and zip ties in place of real fasteners. Everything on this car is done right. Ive seen cars built at shops and have had to correct THEIR work and wiring.

  • @flubyux2 do you need the airflow box because i wanted to remover the plactic hose and put a metal one 

  • @hondazchatch You need the metal "box" that sits after your air filter and has the black hose coming off of it towards the turbo. Unless you have a 7mge NONTURBO, then the black plastic tube after your air filter is just a place holder and can be replaced with a metal tube. But if you're talking about the rubber accordion hose AFTER the air filter and before the turbo, you'll want a hard pipe from a place like driftmotion. 

  • @flubyux2 i wanted to put the mass airflow sencor in a difrent location so i can just run a screen on the turbo

  • very nice beast, u goto school to learn all that custom stuff?

  • @ddavid993 Thanks bud. No. Its mostly just being creative. Then experimenting untill you get it right. The longer you mess with things, the faster you find how not to mess it up.

  • sounds EXACTLY like my 87 Supra Turbo STOCK. Everything is stock but No Cats i believe but it does have a stock muffler.

  • @WestLosHomiez That's likely. Cuz I'm still on stock ct and exh mani. That's where most of the 7m noise comes From. I've got a modified sakimoto muffler off a 2002 wrx so it's nothing racy or loud.

  • @flubyux2 yea i love the sound of it how it is. But today were pulling out the engine & the Turbo's turbine is not there. & MANY MANY connections aren't connected not to mention many bolts weren't even hand tight the previous owner wuz a douche i guess i can say.

  • @WestLosHomiez It's sounding that way. I hate buying things like that and having to deal with the last guys problems. As long as you are good with a wrench and not a cheapskate, it'll turn out fine.

  • @flubyux2 Yea. the tranny bolts were even popping out. & the whole thing is painted & its annoying. Im going to get another stock turbo, the one that came out doesnt even have the oil pipe & the wastegate valve is gone ill just rebuild the whole engine & it does have a cat & the reason it sounds like your car is because the downpipe is broken. ah SAD... i bought a pain in da keester But itll all be worth it after its done. You have to have a Big wallet for these cars lol.

  • @WestLosHomiez Yeah that does suck alot. I hate when people hack up a car and half ass the whole thing. If you think these cars are expensive to work on, try molding a 98-02 dodge diesel. Anything you buy costs $600; fuel pump, injectors, head studs, stainless exhaust, programmer, etc. It's weird how I wont spend $800 Togo stand alone on the supra but buying a pair of programmers for $1000 for my truck makes sense. Lol

  • Nice! youve put in a shit load of work their .

    i found on my ga70 when i put in a bigger intercooler. when i took out the front bumper chasi support the frikn hood wouldnt shut . looks like u had better luck.

    i ended up just chopping it thinner

  • @jonymanay Yeah thats exactly what happened with mine. I wanted to use a jza70 support but I couldn't find one. The next best thing was to make something from scratch. Its not great but it works fine. I let the hood drop from halfway up one time and it did bend the new support a little bit so its not as strong as id like it. But in the vid, you see how I latch the hood now.

  • nice car ill say thinking about buying a 1988 supra turbo

  • @bullshit54321 Thanks! Just make sure you know what you're gettin yourself into. Check for a blown headgasket, rod knock, rust, water leaks around the targa or hatch, past collision damage, past modifications and half-assed work. Don't get too excited and buy someone elses headache just cuz you really want one. Keep all that in mind, and you'll be set!

  • did u make that bracket to hold ur alternator? and how did u get it to work?

  • @tsovtom82 Yeah. I welded it from 1"x1" angle iron, 1/8" thick. I just cut it all up and bent it to the right widths so it would adapt fro the stock pivot bolt and be wide at the bottom for the pivot on the alternator. I used a large threaded rod coupling nut to make the top pivot at the engine. I had to adjust the thickness with washers so it could be the same thickness as the alternator casing. I had to paint it so I wouldn't rust since it's all steel

  • Wow, that sounds WAY different than any other supra i've heard!

  • @kyle279andrew Thanks, I think. It has alot of port work in the cylinder head, raised compression and an open downpipe.

  • @flubyux2 Are you running cams? It sounds awesome, more like a V8 than the traditional fart can sound. What kind of cat/muffler do you have?

  • @kyle279andrew The cams are still stock, I'm pretty sure. I orginally built this for a friend and idk if he did anything else afterwards in the 2yrs he had it. He gave it to me to cover labor for doing his 1j swap. I think the idle has more to do with the injectors and fuel system. They are still 440s but the fuel press is cranked way up, to 52psi instead of 28psi factory.

  • @kyle279andrew Oh, also the exhaust has no mufflers or cats. It's an original defcon downpipe from 2002 and has a 3" mid pipe that exits under the back seats.

  • Nice vid.

    What mods engine wise do you have done?

  • weight reduction? why not just rip the whole back seats out?

  • @vtecboi18 Because I use them? And I don want a noisy, hot, uncomfortable piece of crap to drive. If it's going to be slow, it better be comfortable. I've done the gutted interior, stripped sound deadner, pulled wire harness business before and that's not how I roll anymore.... 

  • @flubyux2 i guess i could understand that plus mk3 seats are too pretty to rip out especially if there wrapped in leather

  • @vtecboi18 Yeah. But if I do a cage, I'll take them out and finish it out cuz then the back seats would Really be useless.

  • @flubyux2 well iv seen this one guy on supra mania his whole interior was black and the seats where leather front and back and he kept the back seats but i guess its personal preference,i'm out here still trying to find a clean mk3 thats still running or has a bhg

  • @vtecboi18 The leather is nice when it's in good shape. Most of the time, the original leather is shot, rock hard and falling apart. I just gave up on leather cuz I didn't feel like spending a grand on recovering my seats with alcantara or nubuck. I'm gonna ride out this fabric till I have spare cash for interior business.

  • @flubyux2 ya i feel ya man i'm not gonna be worried about interior until i clean up the engine change the head gasket, now it might not need it but i'm just preparing myself lol,what are your power goals?

  • @vtecboi18 Preventative work is pretty important so you don't end up ruining more stuff later so doing that work now is prob good. I'm going for 900-950rwhp in the end, on c16 and 37psi with this modified T88-33d. It's been upgraded with a 76mm compressor wheel and that should be capable of 95lb/min of airflow. I've already got my fuel system parts, I'm just waiting for my vendor to receive my manifold. It should be here this month.

  • @flubyux2 nice what type of racing do u do with the car?

  • @vtecboi18 I don't race. I just want a sick street car. I've built 10 second/500rwhp supras in the past and 500rwhp doesn't really impress me anymore. 600rwhp is ok, 700 is gettin somewhere, 800 is almost "wow" factor and 900 is insane. But I don go enough for 1000rwhp. If this one big turbo doesn't work, I'm going to go with twin 60mm vgt turbos.

  • @flubyux2 wow i'm not really sure how much power i want i just wanna take it one step at a time, its gonna be my first car and the first car that ill be doing major work too after i'm use to alot more power then 100 something thats in my parents 06 civic,id basically just like to be able to run with mk4 supra guys and have fun ill be keeping that car till i'm dead.

  • @vtecboi18 Yeah, I feel ya. You can do 300rwhp on the stock turbo after you do you hg and other maintenance. That will feel surprisingly strong and may satisfy you for a while. I've been neglecting my car since I put it together, which is basically the power level you see it at now... So it's no slouch on the streets. But I can't hang on the highway with it and the big boys. I think mid 400s like a 61mm t4 will be all the power you want for a while.

  • @flubyux2 yup thats how i'm gonna do it start with 300rwhp and if that doesn't satisfy me i think 400wrhp will keep me happy for a while then i can focus on other things on the car,how much did u get your mk3 for?

  • @vtecboi18 The car itself, I bought for $850. It was 100% original, maroon leather in good shape and the paint was barely starting to fade. It had an automatic and a seized motor and turbo despite having like $5000 worth of receipts in maintenance.

  • @flubyux2 thats not bad reason i ask iv been seeing then for different prices most guys iv talk too seem to pay between 500 and 2k iv heard higher but i cant see paying no more then highest id say 1k do u have a facebook or myspace?

  • @vtecboi18 For a project, I wouldn't pay more than $1000 unless it was in reallygood shape with good paint and body and clean interior... Especially for a pre-89. IMO, the pre89 is worth less than the later ones. I have myspace but I don't ever use it anymore and I don't have a facebook. Don't really have time for twatting And walling and blogging and such.

  • @flubyux2 should i get a targa top since i want high wrhp iv heard if u have too much power it can make the chassis flex witch i don't need but then since the supra has so much weight i shouldn't have to worry about that right? ,lol ya i l know what u mean i use my facebook more then myspace to keep in touch with fam and friends.

  • @vtecboi18 The targa is cool but tends to leak. So unless you're ok with spending alot of money on new seals, get a hard top. It'll be lighter and leak way less. The flex is no big deal when the top is on but when it's off, watch out. Big bumps and stuf like train tracks shake the car and make it flex alot. It makes me cringe whenever I hit bumps and I have the top off...

  • @flubyux2 skip that since it flexs over bumps and stuff,are u on any supra fourms?

  • Hey bro nice ride,

    Is that a 1jz actuator on a ct26?? or am I off..

  • @JoshTexican thanks bud. You are correct sir. It is still the ct26 flange but I knocked off the original actuator and ground off the spot welds. Then I tack welded the ct12a actuator onto the flange. Then i had to cut and change the length of the actuator arm. I think I cut the ct26 arm and welded it to the ct12 arm and shortened it to get the proper preload. It works just like stock now, only a little more power at 14psi

  • MAF TRANSLATOR, OR MAP ECU STANDALONE.

  • @maggie41653 Map-ecu1, the old school one. I love it and recommend it highly. 

  • @flubyux2 Okay, Thanks (My 1987 7m-ge Spun a Bearing) - Looking into getting a 1988 Turbo and Doing Similar mods with intake Plenum Map and Fuel System. (Very Clean and Nice Car BTW).

  • wow..great setup...looks like you know what your doin.

    quick question, i have the exact same car and when i diconnect my maf the car idles very low and when i accelerate it want to turn off..how did you bypass your maf sensor?

  • @eduardssupra559 Hey, thanks man. You need to get a computer to add to the car that simulates the afm so the car still thinks it's there. I have a map-ecu. You just run a vaccuum/boost line to it and program it with a laptop. It converts the signal so the stock ecu knows what to do. Then you can get rid of the stock maf. There are other setups like a maft (maf translater) or and old hks-vpc but those aren't made anymore. 

  • MAF TRANSLATOR, or MAP ECU Standalone.

  • Bro, your mods are sick. I've gotta say your setup is a one of a kind. I've never seen anything like it. Keep it up. It's sai_supra1jz from SF

  • @1jzmk3 Thanks man. I appreciate the comments. It's nice when someone appreciates all the hard work. Hopefully I can pick up a pair of those xxr wheels so I can get back to the meshie look... Cuz I love how your car looks on them. Makes me miss my volks.

  • fucking bawlsack !

  • Comment removed

  • It's open mid pipe. It ends under the back seats. I used to have roush-style side exits but they dragged after I lowered the car band since I'm going to change my setup, I'm not going to bother running a new 3". I'm jus going to cut up a 4" from a diesel truck and weld it up. And no cats either.

  • @flubyux2 dont go 4''. gotta have some backpressure. 3 inch seems to do the best with these engines

  • @mkIIIsupras If I was stopping at 500rwhp, I wouldn't bother with a 4". But this turbo I've got is rated at 95lb/min at 37psi, so I'm anticipating needed to move more exhaust than a 3" can handle.

  • whats your exhaust setup like? running cats?

  • Yeah, if you change your gas cap to a vented one.

  • Plug the canister lines?

  • Yeah, you'll have gas fumes under your hood and usually seep inside the car. If you do remove it, you can just put a catch can there or behind the headlight or by the cruise control area if you have room. Just be creative I guess.

  • @flubyux2 thats what that smells from. need a vented cap. makes sense since when i go to fill up there is so much pressure built up in the tank.

  • @mkIIIsupras Yeah, mine does the same thing. My vent line is actually blocked off somewhere under the car. On a hot day, the cap hisses for several seconds. I'm afraid if I just spin it off real fast, it'll fly off. Lol

  • True . Yo u kno for the 7mgte where the bawlsack can i put a

    catch can? if i remove the evap canister is their guna be side effects?

    i kno i can do battery to the trunk what else? just dont want no black ppl

    stealing my car u kno, i sometimes forget i have kfc still in their.. =(

  • No... Ase certification just means you "officially" don't know what the fuck your talking about. Hah! I just learned alot from people smarter than me. Evenually you have all the smart info from everyone. If you do it enough, you'll have more smart info than most people.

  • Yeah all gota start somewhere. Are you a master tech?

    Everytime you post something on SF its outa my world

    so beyond technical i dont get shit after reading it 50 times,

    could be because im handicapped, or u just got a oversized brain.

  • Lol that's too funny. I remember when he was a noob... 

  • Yeah im that boost logic guy who gets banned weekly. (fuck you zumtizzle)

    Plz send him my message.

  • Yup... I'm "that" guy.

  • Oh shit your that supra forums guy. I love how everything is custom.

    Smart fish man

  • I bought the car for $850 with a seized motor, original auto, burgundy leather and unmolested. I only have a few grand in cash in it. The rest is parts traded or I was paid in parts for doing other work and renting out a room in my apt several yrs ago. I had alot of parts accumulated from my 5 previous supras also.

  • how much money have you spent total on this car? I bought my car for 5k and i just spent over 1k on random fix it up parts

  • Map ecu. It simulates the maf signal while using it's own internal map sensor. It's tuned with a lap top. It works pretty well but tends to have a slight hiccup when tapping the throttle. Seems to be a common problem. The software will also allow you to install a wideband sensor and inputthe wideband info tothe map ecu software. Then you can record it so you can look at it and make Adjustments later.

  • howd u get rid of the maf sensor

  • ah yes, the speed density/no iac startup =P i have that problem too. but that's because mine broke. and its for a 2jzge, so, its a little tricky to find one sitting around.

  • Awsome tour!!!..fellow turbo targa here!!

  • A 21 yr old black car doesn't fare too well in the Florida sun. I've only been able to garage it for the past 2 yrs. The sides, which don't see direct sunlight are still glossy. The body is straight though, I've only found 2 dents on it. But, the carfax was legit as are the $6400 in receipts I found inside, dating back to 1996. Also, the oil change sticker and coolant service stickers on the car also line up with the mileage: 42000 in 2001.

  • nice car, but it's kinda of rough for only having around 70k miles.

  • Oh, as for where all that wiring went. I unclipped it from all it's tabs on the body and the abs unit. Then I pushed it back thru the fender apron. It's all folded and bundled, then secured to the large support brace. It's well out of the way of the tire and suspension.

  • Thanks, I appreciate the kind words. I eliminated the fuel pump resistor pack and the relay itself. I cut the connector off the relay and left it plugged into the chassis harness. Then I soldered the fp+ wirecoming from the ecu to the wire thatruns back down into the trunk. So the fp+ ecu signal runs thru the original 12v pump wire and that's what I use to trigger the new relay.

  • where did you put the fuel realys that are on the sides, like where did you relocate them to.

    By the way thats awesome man you put everything where you wanted it. pure awesome.

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