youll increase flow on these heads 20 cfm max IF you know what youre doing, to make them shiny and polish you might as well polish yur rocker covers? first time porting this style head why waste youre time showing people this cant see the point. if you know what youre doing PROFFESSIONALLY you wouldnt get on here and create stupid videos and help the novice mess up his $2500 heads.......
Port matching by most means not much match at all. The way I do it is assemble the top end with the manifold bolted on, gaskets and all. Now drill a hole in each corner of the manifold, through the gasket and into the head some. Now you have a template to work with, locate the gasket on the manifold with roll pins into the holes and on the head also. Then when you put it togeather you can positively locate the gasket before boltin down the head.
so I just bought a 76 olds with the 455, and it is stock...how should I bump up the compression? I want to just get new head gaskets, but is it worth the money to get new heads?
Fuel puddling is also less of a problem if you keep the combustion chamber temperatures high enough. Cam overlap is a big factor in puddling because raw fuel cools the cylinders and puddles more rapidly than completely vaporized fuel.That's why high RPM solves the problem. The cylinders are more fully scavenged by the velocity of the air/fuel mixture in conjunction with a good header/exhaust system.
@HeavyOlds Hmm I didn't know of any annular booster carbs that had chokes that were not either Holley or Motorcraft.. Personaly ,depending on how much RPM you intend to operate at ( CFM size ) I would consider a Holley HP with BLP annular boosters if your looking for fuel vaporizeing , they offer a billet annular insert with 16 holes that fits the Holley banjo with a option of leg sizes starting at 0.140 , you might want to check their website...
tous d'abord polire miroire n'est pas bon pour un moteur atmosphérique il ne gagne rien en puissance il est meme possible d'avoir des turbulance la meyeur des chose a faire c'est de poncé très fin . est sa ne servira strictement rien a poncer très fin si vous êtes turbo compresser . parcontre si vous voulez avoir un moteur avec bocoup de clouple l'admission doit ètre long et inversement pour la puissance voila sur ce a+
Man you did a great job! I used to work at a machine shop and one guy came in and said he wanted his heads ported and polished and the machinist made them gasket matched and he put that blue stuff all over the ports like shown in your pics, what's that exactly for?
@1355550 One time I built a 425 that had major pre-ignition and run-on problems. I pulled the heads and bevelled the sharp edge around the combustion chamber left by the machinist after shaving the heads. What a difference.
Knowlton Mondello heads flow 408 cfm out of the box. Edelbrocks are a waste of time and money, they are just C heads without the rolled down exhaust exit...which is a flow problem in stock Olds heads. Polishing intake ports interferes with the "tumble" of air and impedes flow. Polishing exhaust is OK and doesn't matter.
@Bigbriansc Out of the box, Edelbrocks do flow similar to stock C heads, around 240 - 250 cfm but when Mondello designed these heads, he left room for improvement. It is possible to get over 300CFM with a good port job. I'm sure the Knowlton Mondello heads are good but they are thousands more.
@HeavyOlds polishing for a street car and most race cars, is a total waste of time and money, especially if someone is charging you $50/hour to do it. It achieves nothing. One can "shape" a small intake port until their hands wear out, if the port is too small for the engine size, nothing is gained. Take a 350 Chevy with factory small port heads, and then bolt on a big port head- the difference is like day and night- but it also requires changing cam, intake, carb, headers, rear gears too
@tunnelportterror I'm assuming from your statement you don't have any experience with engine building. Going to a larger port head WILL decrease velocity at low and mid rpms, which reduces torque and hurts throttle response. A proper PnP will increase velocity at low and mid rpms and increase volume flow at higher engine speeds, all of which produce a noticeable improvement in performance throughout the engines range. Best of all you won't need new intake, carb, etc., to feel the gain.
@MrSchumacher 1. For the fuel to "condense" it would have to be at a higher temp. than the port or runner. EXTREMELY unlikely.
2. The fuel can drop out of suspension at low rpm if the airflow in the port/runner is very restricted and there is little or no turbulence. This is rarely the case and can be solved by putting a hatch into the port entrance.
3. Fuel puddling will occur on the manifold floor if the jets or injector ae to close to it and the fuel can't make the turn into the runners.
@MrSchumacher 5. Fuel puddling is common with low-rise manifolds. The problem can be solved by installing a "turtle" on the manifold floor directing flow into the runners, or by installing a spacer between the manifold and carb/tb to allow the air/fuel mixture more room to turn into the runners. The spacer will also thermally isolate the carb/tb resulting in a cooler, denser charge being delivered for combustion.
I was told that carbon will still build up and that polishing is a waste of time. I have found that the engine runs cooler because there is less heat getting into the head. The heat stays in the cylinder to push the piston down.
@HeavyOlds but wouldnt more heat in the head cause other problems...couldnt it get to hot and possibly melt the head or something...or does most of the heat just exit the exhaust?
@09ikeanmike56 Heat can cause problems with heads. So it's better to keep the heat out of the head. The head will pick up some heat from the exhaust port.
That's a Cross Buff. I got mine at the local parts store. You can google "Cross Buff". It looks like CylinderHeadSupply has some. Those Cross Buffs are amazing. Run them around the port a bit and next thing you know you have a mirror finish. Don't use it on your intake though. Except short turn radius only.
teach leave comment on bigblockmustang porting video....teach say porting a precise method. Porting not so hard to do...you need to assemble engine...dowel pin intake to heads...spray paint intake runners...disassemble...grind off painted area...not so hard...easy
I was checking combustion chamber volume. The head was shaved which reduced the volume but polishing the CC actually added some. There is now a couple CCs less that OEM.
A drill would be too slow. A die grinder can spin up to 25,000 rpm. Get a good 1/4" die grinder like a Makita with a good bearing on the collet end. If you get a cheap die grinder with a light duty bearing, the bearing slop will make your cutter bounce all over the place inside the port. Hang on to the grinder really good so you don't lose control of it.
Hard to say because I never had these heads running unported. They're new out of the box. I had stock C heads on a 425 with a similar cam and the best I could do was 14 seconds with no tire spin problems. This engine has tons of torque. I took my machinest for a ride and he said he never saw a 455 Olds perform like that. "Revs like a small block Chevy." The cam is a Mondello JM 4-5.
I can understand that one. Tough to clearance that one. I get nervous every time I startup a new engine. I once built a 425 Olds where the machinest didn't leave enough clearance for the forged pistons. They ran into the cylinder wall and got all scored up and started rattling right after startup. Had to pull the engine out and start all over again. That's why I went with the startup on the engine stand idea. I also don't trust other peoples work any more and double check everything.
This is the most intelligent discussion I have ever heard on YouTube.....you guys know what you are talking about, and are reasonable, and not attacking in you critiques...great job on the head....I understand what you mean, when I did my first engine, I was just trying to smooth things out, and did not have the opportunity to do any flow tests like the big boys, just working in my basement, bolting it together and running it, I lucked out, hope you did also...
Thanks for the positive comment. I know what you are talking about. I see a lot of attacks in other people's videos. People sometimes say things on YouTube they wouldn't have the guts to tell you to your face. I have not had any nasty comments yet. Lucky so far.
That's a 3-ply Cross Buff from Standard Abrasives. I was amazed at how well it worked. In and out of the exhaust port a few times and I got a mirror like finish. They get used up fast though. I started the ports with a 7 flute carbide made for aluminum, then used an 40 grit sanding roll and progressed to 120. I left the intake at 40 grit. I also used sanding disks on the combustion chamber, not shown because the picture corrupted. Mondello's porting fluid to prevent plugging up cutters.
ha, thanks for the tip, finally some real answer. now i can actually try and get started with the right tools. o by the way i'am trying to port RC engines, any tip well help. thanks. o by the way, crasy nice job.
RC engines are 2-stroke, right? i can give you one advice, be sure not to f*ck up the port opening times, (i hope i said it right), the safest way of porting 2-stroke is just to make ports wider. and make zhe intake side rough and exhaust polished. oh and max. width of port can be only 2/3 of the piston width, and the ports must be circular, otherwise the piston rings aren't pushed back in to their place properly and can be broken. and one again excuse my english, it's not my native language
I actually did use the Cross Buff to polish the short side radius only just before the intake valve. You want to leave the rest of the intake port rough. It does help to polish the whole exhaust port mainly to keep the heat out of the head.
There is some question how rough you want the intake port. I've found more airflow with a smoother port and consequently, more power on the dyno, but I've never tried going in afterwards and roughing up the port where it didn't hurt the airflow and then re-dynoing the combination. If I ever more time and extra money I may try it just so I know.
That would be interesting to know. My machinest recommented a smooth port for more power. I think a smooth port is worse for streetability. The rough surface traps puddling fuel until it absorbs heat and vaporizes again. This probably doesn't have time to happen at 6000 rpm. It did pollish the short turn radius though. This is supposed to help the flow stick to it around the tight corner. Fuel will never puddle there anyway.
I did not use a liquid at all. The cross-buff pads do a great job dry. I did use Mondello's porting fluid to keep the cutters from loading up while porting. It is important not to polish the intake except for the short turn radius into the valve.
it really depends where its rough. you'll want the short turn floor pretty smooth but in the back of the long turn, at least on some it seems to be such a negligable difference, or on the walls of the exhaust moving out toward the header flange.. why bother except for absolute max effort. This of course as long as there are no huge pieces of casting flash or whatnot.
One thing I found out many years ago. There is no point in porting heads/intake unless your going to flow test each port/runner. You might actually hurt performance and all the ports flowing all different numbers, not good. You did a very nice polishing job, I'm just saying in general, always flow test the heads during the process and get the numbers all the same or near each other.
It would have been nice to flow test alright. I was wishing I had a flow bench at the time. Flow is a dynamic variable that affects compression. More important than matching the CCs. I just took Mondello's advice and straightened the flow out as best I could. Raised the roof a bit and removed the pushrod bumps etc. These heads are very unbalanced right out of the box. 256cfm inner ports to 278cfm outer ports at 1/2" lift. Seems to run alright though.
I actually made my own flow test device out of a K&N filter display (advance auto throw away),a long tube and a ping pong ball. It sounds stupid and redneck, but at least I can see how each port is flowing and try to get them all the same. I would like to try using a MAF sensor instead of the ping pong ball in the tube trick, but I just havent gotten around to it. I would also like to have actual numbers instead of a ball in a tube.
That's a geat idea. I tried using my shop vac and a length of transparent tubing mounted vertically on a board down one side and up the other filled with water half way but I couldn't get the water level to budge at all. A person should be able to somehow adapt a MAF off of a car.
Hi, I'm going to have a go have a go at porting a motorcycle head. I'm confused, on the "roof" and "floor" and the reference to epoxy. Is the "roof" the combustion chamber and the "floor" the head/cylinder block edge (on the head side)? And is the epoxy metal based?
The roof is the valve cover side and the floor is the combustion chamber side. The idea is to reduce the sharp angle to the valve and get a straight shot into the combustion chamber. The epoxy is very durable. I think it is metal based.
I stopped doing the exhaust like mirrors , it dosen't increase flow just makes um look good , though it sells . I still do the CC smooth , but stopped with the felt bob stuff and just do nice slick 180 grit and let it be . I did up a set of J heads I think it was , never saw them in action though .
You are right. Fine polishing the exhaust port does nothing for flow. A smooth surface will help prevent heat from being absorbed into the head. A rough surface will have more surface area to transfer heat with. I was amazed how cool this engine runs. With iron heads and similar cam I had a hard time keeping it below 190 on a warm day. Now I have to run it hard to get it up to 180.
I also forgot to compliment you on the work , it looks to me like there are a lot of years experience in that work , and a ton of patience . I have about ten grinders I keep loaded with various shapes , and I use air , I just can't get used to the electric , and throttle it by feel , funny how you just get used to it , and get a feel for how the cutter is workin . Bet we both like the same shapes too . Have you tried small hole in the header , top at the flange , pulls air and afterburns .
Thanks for the compliment! I used thin cardboard templates to match the ports. The first time I got the coarse aluminum cutter in there, I lost control and it rattled all over the place. I was able to clean that up but I ended up dropping the floor .040 which I didn't want to do. Mondello said not to worry about it. I did a lot of carefull measurements around the pushrod holes. I estimate I am around .050 at the closest point. Mondello said that straightening out the airflow makes horsepower.
You could learn a lot with just a shop vac and a manometer/velometer if you don't have a bench , turbulance is your enimey and a velometer will show it to you , just a little brass tube in my case and some rubber hose , you know the routine I' sure , poke around the short side radious and watch the pressures . I pay anal attention to valve jobs and bought my own stuff , old Souix that works splendedly . I got tired of crap , I couldn't buy at any price what I wanted , all I got was bullshit .
That's a great idea. Another good use for my shop vac besides clearing the port while I grind. I will try it the next time I port some more heads. I have a set of Ka heads with 2.070 intakes that I hear are similar to a C casting. I'd love to have my own valve grinding equipment. Now after reading some David Vizard articles, I wish I had back-cut the valves while I had the chance.
I match port intakes by drilling location holes in the corners of sung intk . Drill each corner through the man-gas-head , gaskets are indexed and reused in same loc , use pins and loc gasket to parts and port to taste , I like a smooth interface . Use same gaskets , hover the man with hoist and use pins to locate everything , snug it , pull pins and torque , what you have is dead nuts , Just look and consider where to drill . snafu can be drilled and plugged never had toyet use spideysense
I had thought a shop vac and mass air meter and use dvom to read the flow. I didn't think of checking the airflow for turbulance. Mine was just a random thought and I've never ported heads. Cool idea.
why using square ports??!!! thats shit....
marmlad 1 week ago
@marmlad They are now rounder than they used to be.
HeavyOlds 1 week ago
OMG! I am on the unusual portion of Youtube again.
rufusnolan512 4 weeks ago
This is a "melted" video. =p
reggielittle25 1 month ago
This video went viral on Vanuatu
roycestevens37 1 month ago
youll increase flow on these heads 20 cfm max IF you know what youre doing, to make them shiny and polish you might as well polish yur rocker covers? first time porting this style head why waste youre time showing people this cant see the point. if you know what youre doing PROFFESSIONALLY you wouldnt get on here and create stupid videos and help the novice mess up his $2500 heads.......
lewisengines 2 months ago
@lewisengines Sorry to hear about your messed up heads. You should have read some of the comments more carefully first.
HeavyOlds 1 week ago
nice work!
80v8camaro 2 months ago
First time porting? Thats pretty impressive man. I'd be scared too, man. Nice work.
carlosg815 3 months ago
really nice job,i'd like to get edelbrock heads for my 455(bore .30) or even c heads,i have j head now.
nl25c 3 months ago
Port matching by most means not much match at all. The way I do it is assemble the top end with the manifold bolted on, gaskets and all. Now drill a hole in each corner of the manifold, through the gasket and into the head some. Now you have a template to work with, locate the gasket on the manifold with roll pins into the holes and on the head also. Then when you put it togeather you can positively locate the gasket before boltin down the head.
505197 5 months ago
what a perfect finish
Streamliner009 5 months ago
so I just bought a 76 olds with the 455, and it is stock...how should I bump up the compression? I want to just get new head gaskets, but is it worth the money to get new heads?
montey1017 6 months ago
you shoulda D shaped the exhaust ports as far down as possible
Bigbriansc 10 months ago
@Bigbriansc My edelbrock performer rpm heads came with D ports but that for a small block chevy...id be gussing the olds came d-port too.but idk
Codythecartaker 2 weeks ago
can any one tell me what is porting do makes it glosy shines or? i wanted to know if i can port my hpi baja
dtmpowerboss 10 months ago
Fuel puddling is also less of a problem if you keep the combustion chamber temperatures high enough. Cam overlap is a big factor in puddling because raw fuel cools the cylinders and puddles more rapidly than completely vaporized fuel.That's why high RPM solves the problem. The cylinders are more fully scavenged by the velocity of the air/fuel mixture in conjunction with a good header/exhaust system.
sradie 10 months ago
@sradie Actually I am running an annular discharge carb. They do a good job of vaporizing fuel. I removed the choke altogether.
HeavyOlds 10 months ago
@HeavyOlds Hmm I didn't know of any annular booster carbs that had chokes that were not either Holley or Motorcraft.. Personaly ,depending on how much RPM you intend to operate at ( CFM size ) I would consider a Holley HP with BLP annular boosters if your looking for fuel vaporizeing , they offer a billet annular insert with 16 holes that fits the Holley banjo with a option of leg sizes starting at 0.140 , you might want to check their website...
kamphwagon1 1 month ago
What is the material u use to give the polish look?
i have the 2 first ones you use, but would like to buy the
3rd to give a good polish
doc289 11 months ago
@doc289 That's a Cross Buff
HeavyOlds 10 months ago
tous d'abord polire miroire n'est pas bon pour un moteur atmosphérique il ne gagne rien en puissance il est meme possible d'avoir des turbulance la meyeur des chose a faire c'est de poncé très fin . est sa ne servira strictement rien a poncer très fin si vous êtes turbo compresser . parcontre si vous voulez avoir un moteur avec bocoup de clouple l'admission doit ètre long et inversement pour la puissance voila sur ce a+
guigui3511 11 months ago
You probably killed the flow by dropping the floor.
DONDIVA1969 11 months ago
Ummm... Thats an awesome job!
benlyons83 1 year ago
Someone should probably give you the definition of "video".
michaelfarm 1 year ago
Man you did a great job! I used to work at a machine shop and one guy came in and said he wanted his heads ported and polished and the machinist made them gasket matched and he put that blue stuff all over the ports like shown in your pics, what's that exactly for?
ben38619 1 year ago
@ben38619 The blue stuff is just a dye you put on that will make scribe marks visible. Then you can see where to grind.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
Good catch, many forget that and it does help. Again your heads look nice I bet it runs strong. Happy Holidays
1355550 1 year ago
Polshing wont keep the heat down but it will keep the hot spots down to help thwart detonation. nice for your first time! Did you flow them?
1355550 1 year ago
@1355550 No, it would have been nice to have access to a flow bench.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
@1355550 One time I built a 425 that had major pre-ignition and run-on problems. I pulled the heads and bevelled the sharp edge around the combustion chamber left by the machinist after shaving the heads. What a difference.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
Knowlton Mondello heads flow 408 cfm out of the box. Edelbrocks are a waste of time and money, they are just C heads without the rolled down exhaust exit...which is a flow problem in stock Olds heads. Polishing intake ports interferes with the "tumble" of air and impedes flow. Polishing exhaust is OK and doesn't matter.
Bigbriansc 1 year ago
@Bigbriansc Out of the box, Edelbrocks do flow similar to stock C heads, around 240 - 250 cfm but when Mondello designed these heads, he left room for improvement. It is possible to get over 300CFM with a good port job. I'm sure the Knowlton Mondello heads are good but they are thousands more.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
I'm jealous.
ringer454 1 year ago
those mods gain very little, the best way to gain power is just buy a head with larger ports in them already
tunnelportterror 1 year ago
@tunnelportterror That depends on if you are just polishing or actually removing material and changing the shape of the port.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
@HeavyOlds polishing for a street car and most race cars, is a total waste of time and money, especially if someone is charging you $50/hour to do it. It achieves nothing. One can "shape" a small intake port until their hands wear out, if the port is too small for the engine size, nothing is gained. Take a 350 Chevy with factory small port heads, and then bolt on a big port head- the difference is like day and night- but it also requires changing cam, intake, carb, headers, rear gears too
tunnelportterror 1 year ago
@tunnelportterror I'm assuming from your statement you don't have any experience with engine building. Going to a larger port head WILL decrease velocity at low and mid rpms, which reduces torque and hurts throttle response. A proper PnP will increase velocity at low and mid rpms and increase volume flow at higher engine speeds, all of which produce a noticeable improvement in performance throughout the engines range. Best of all you won't need new intake, carb, etc., to feel the gain.
FatFred2U 10 months ago
You should never polish heads or manifold runners because fuel can condense on it and as we all now, liquid fuel doesn't burn.
MrSchumacher 1 year ago
@MrSchumacher It's OK to polish the intake if you finish with a course abrasive. Fuel puddling is not a problem at high RPM.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
@MrSchumacher 1. For the fuel to "condense" it would have to be at a higher temp. than the port or runner. EXTREMELY unlikely.
2. The fuel can drop out of suspension at low rpm if the airflow in the port/runner is very restricted and there is little or no turbulence. This is rarely the case and can be solved by putting a hatch into the port entrance.
3. Fuel puddling will occur on the manifold floor if the jets or injector ae to close to it and the fuel can't make the turn into the runners.
FatFred2U 10 months ago
@MrSchumacher 5. Fuel puddling is common with low-rise manifolds. The problem can be solved by installing a "turtle" on the manifold floor directing flow into the runners, or by installing a spacer between the manifold and carb/tb to allow the air/fuel mixture more room to turn into the runners. The spacer will also thermally isolate the carb/tb resulting in a cooler, denser charge being delivered for combustion.
FatFred2U 10 months ago
Nice work!
bcoverss 1 year ago
whenever the inside of the engine is really smooth does that make it harder for contaminates to build up? I would assume so but id like a pro opinion
09ikeanmike56 1 year ago
I was told that carbon will still build up and that polishing is a waste of time. I have found that the engine runs cooler because there is less heat getting into the head. The heat stays in the cylinder to push the piston down.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
@HeavyOlds but wouldnt more heat in the head cause other problems...couldnt it get to hot and possibly melt the head or something...or does most of the heat just exit the exhaust?
09ikeanmike56 1 year ago
@09ikeanmike56 Heat can cause problems with heads. So it's better to keep the heat out of the head. The head will pick up some heat from the exhaust port.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
when you say dont use on intake do ya mean intake manifold
tmplumber59 1 year ago
Intake manifold or intake port unless it's on the inside of a very tight turn.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
where can i find the tool @ 0.11 seconds? thanks
tmplumber59 1 year ago
That's a Cross Buff. I got mine at the local parts store. You can google "Cross Buff". It looks like CylinderHeadSupply has some. Those Cross Buffs are amazing. Run them around the port a bit and next thing you know you have a mirror finish. Don't use it on your intake though. Except short turn radius only.
HeavyOlds 1 year ago
nice job. i bought cnc ported and polished heads from AFR and they looked to be the same quality as yours.
italiankid1119 1 year ago
nice job. i bought cnc ported and polished heads from AFR and they looked to be the same quality as yours.
italiankid1119 1 year ago
Bello!
korps976 1 year ago
nice job dude
Codythecartaker 2 years ago
Thanks Cody.
HeavyOlds 2 years ago
awsome job man.. keep up the good work
rd95stang 2 years ago
Thanks for the compliment.
HeavyOlds 2 years ago
teach leave comment on bigblockmustang porting video....teach say porting a precise method. Porting not so hard to do...you need to assemble engine...dowel pin intake to heads...spray paint intake runners...disassemble...grind off painted area...not so hard...easy
TeacherPHD 2 years ago
hey what were you doing at 0:56??
96Rolla 2 years ago
I was checking combustion chamber volume. The head was shaved which reduced the volume but polishing the CC actually added some. There is now a couple CCs less that OEM.
HeavyOlds 2 years ago
I was just about to say something about having those heads resurfaced after seeing this.
OBCblackhawk 2 years ago
Brilliant..! Can it use a home use electric drill to make a good head port & polish?
ravagebang 2 years ago
A drill would be too slow. A die grinder can spin up to 25,000 rpm. Get a good 1/4" die grinder like a Makita with a good bearing on the collet end. If you get a cheap die grinder with a light duty bearing, the bearing slop will make your cutter bounce all over the place inside the port. Hang on to the grinder really good so you don't lose control of it.
HeavyOlds 2 years ago
awsome job!
drowwis 2 years ago
nice job man.. So when ya comin to do mine? lmao
venn54 2 years ago
the important thing is clean
azamzzr250 2 years ago
was actually done a good job! there is more power after the change? please answer me
DalheTudo 3 years ago
Hard to say because I never had these heads running unported. They're new out of the box. I had stock C heads on a 425 with a similar cam and the best I could do was 14 seconds with no tire spin problems. This engine has tons of torque. I took my machinest for a ride and he said he never saw a 455 Olds perform like that. "Revs like a small block Chevy." The cam is a Mondello JM 4-5.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
Why was this the scariest thing you've ever done?
MoPar7055 3 years ago
The heads were not cheap and this was my first crack at head porting.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
Oh I see, I was pretty nervous when I put in a crank scraper assembly for the first time then started it up.
MoPar7055 3 years ago
I can understand that one. Tough to clearance that one. I get nervous every time I startup a new engine. I once built a 425 Olds where the machinest didn't leave enough clearance for the forged pistons. They ran into the cylinder wall and got all scored up and started rattling right after startup. Had to pull the engine out and start all over again. That's why I went with the startup on the engine stand idea. I also don't trust other peoples work any more and double check everything.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
This is the most intelligent discussion I have ever heard on YouTube.....you guys know what you are talking about, and are reasonable, and not attacking in you critiques...great job on the head....I understand what you mean, when I did my first engine, I was just trying to smooth things out, and did not have the opportunity to do any flow tests like the big boys, just working in my basement, bolting it together and running it, I lucked out, hope you did also...
prideventures 3 years ago
Thanks for the positive comment. I know what you are talking about. I see a lot of attacks in other people's videos. People sometimes say things on YouTube they wouldn't have the guts to tell you to your face. I have not had any nasty comments yet. Lucky so far.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
what is that third tool you used called, it looks like fussy cloth and what grit sand paper was that?
racedust 3 years ago
That's a 3-ply Cross Buff from Standard Abrasives. I was amazed at how well it worked. In and out of the exhaust port a few times and I got a mirror like finish. They get used up fast though. I started the ports with a 7 flute carbide made for aluminum, then used an 40 grit sanding roll and progressed to 120. I left the intake at 40 grit. I also used sanding disks on the combustion chamber, not shown because the picture corrupted. Mondello's porting fluid to prevent plugging up cutters.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
ha, thanks for the tip, finally some real answer. now i can actually try and get started with the right tools. o by the way i'am trying to port RC engines, any tip well help. thanks. o by the way, crasy nice job.
racedust 3 years ago
RC engines are 2-stroke, right? i can give you one advice, be sure not to f*ck up the port opening times, (i hope i said it right), the safest way of porting 2-stroke is just to make ports wider. and make zhe intake side rough and exhaust polished. oh and max. width of port can be only 2/3 of the piston width, and the ports must be circular, otherwise the piston rings aren't pushed back in to their place properly and can be broken. and one again excuse my english, it's not my native language
svedr 3 years ago
I actually did use the Cross Buff to polish the short side radius only just before the intake valve. You want to leave the rest of the intake port rough. It does help to polish the whole exhaust port mainly to keep the heat out of the head.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
There is some question how rough you want the intake port. I've found more airflow with a smoother port and consequently, more power on the dyno, but I've never tried going in afterwards and roughing up the port where it didn't hurt the airflow and then re-dynoing the combination. If I ever more time and extra money I may try it just so I know.
usermanname 2 years ago
That would be interesting to know. My machinest recommented a smooth port for more power. I think a smooth port is worse for streetability. The rough surface traps puddling fuel until it absorbs heat and vaporizes again. This probably doesn't have time to happen at 6000 rpm. It did pollish the short turn radius though. This is supposed to help the flow stick to it around the tight corner. Fuel will never puddle there anyway.
HeavyOlds 2 years ago
hi there.
just wanna ask wat liquid u use to polish after u port the head.
keropoklekor007 2 years ago
I did not use a liquid at all. The cross-buff pads do a great job dry. I did use Mondello's porting fluid to keep the cutters from loading up while porting. It is important not to polish the intake except for the short turn radius into the valve.
HeavyOlds 2 years ago
it really depends where its rough. you'll want the short turn floor pretty smooth but in the back of the long turn, at least on some it seems to be such a negligable difference, or on the walls of the exhaust moving out toward the header flange.. why bother except for absolute max effort. This of course as long as there are no huge pieces of casting flash or whatnot.
JSRmontcalm 2 years ago
hey wat wuz that water or watever dat u pored on the valves???
dustinwaller87 3 years ago
Just H2O. Stainless valves and aluminum heads so I wasn't worry about rust. The polishing enlarged the CCs by 2 CCs. Had to find out.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
The main problem with water is it beads up and can lie to you, ATF or solvent works best.
Good job on the heads though
phobiablack 3 years ago
You did a great job considering it was your fist time.
A63Chevy 3 years ago
One thing I found out many years ago. There is no point in porting heads/intake unless your going to flow test each port/runner. You might actually hurt performance and all the ports flowing all different numbers, not good. You did a very nice polishing job, I'm just saying in general, always flow test the heads during the process and get the numbers all the same or near each other.
Outlander11 3 years ago
It would have been nice to flow test alright. I was wishing I had a flow bench at the time. Flow is a dynamic variable that affects compression. More important than matching the CCs. I just took Mondello's advice and straightened the flow out as best I could. Raised the roof a bit and removed the pushrod bumps etc. These heads are very unbalanced right out of the box. 256cfm inner ports to 278cfm outer ports at 1/2" lift. Seems to run alright though.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
I actually made my own flow test device out of a K&N filter display (advance auto throw away),a long tube and a ping pong ball. It sounds stupid and redneck, but at least I can see how each port is flowing and try to get them all the same. I would like to try using a MAF sensor instead of the ping pong ball in the tube trick, but I just havent gotten around to it. I would also like to have actual numbers instead of a ball in a tube.
Outlander11 3 years ago
That's a geat idea. I tried using my shop vac and a length of transparent tubing mounted vertically on a board down one side and up the other filled with water half way but I couldn't get the water level to budge at all. A person should be able to somehow adapt a MAF off of a car.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
nice work man!
outlawmonk 4 years ago
Hi, I'm going to have a go have a go at porting a motorcycle head. I'm confused, on the "roof" and "floor" and the reference to epoxy. Is the "roof" the combustion chamber and the "floor" the head/cylinder block edge (on the head side)? And is the epoxy metal based?
foggys916 4 years ago
The roof is the valve cover side and the floor is the combustion chamber side. The idea is to reduce the sharp angle to the valve and get a straight shot into the combustion chamber. The epoxy is very durable. I think it is metal based.
HeavyOlds 4 years ago
dont tell me u actually polished the ports aswell!!
marek0086 4 years ago
I buffed up the CC and exhaust port. The intake port was finished with a coarse sanding roll.
HeavyOlds 4 years ago
good
marek0086 4 years ago
I stopped doing the exhaust like mirrors , it dosen't increase flow just makes um look good , though it sells . I still do the CC smooth , but stopped with the felt bob stuff and just do nice slick 180 grit and let it be . I did up a set of J heads I think it was , never saw them in action though .
505197 3 years ago
You are right. Fine polishing the exhaust port does nothing for flow. A smooth surface will help prevent heat from being absorbed into the head. A rough surface will have more surface area to transfer heat with. I was amazed how cool this engine runs. With iron heads and similar cam I had a hard time keeping it below 190 on a warm day. Now I have to run it hard to get it up to 180.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
I also forgot to compliment you on the work , it looks to me like there are a lot of years experience in that work , and a ton of patience . I have about ten grinders I keep loaded with various shapes , and I use air , I just can't get used to the electric , and throttle it by feel , funny how you just get used to it , and get a feel for how the cutter is workin . Bet we both like the same shapes too . Have you tried small hole in the header , top at the flange , pulls air and afterburns .
505197 3 years ago
Thanks for the compliment! I used thin cardboard templates to match the ports. The first time I got the coarse aluminum cutter in there, I lost control and it rattled all over the place. I was able to clean that up but I ended up dropping the floor .040 which I didn't want to do. Mondello said not to worry about it. I did a lot of carefull measurements around the pushrod holes. I estimate I am around .050 at the closest point. Mondello said that straightening out the airflow makes horsepower.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
You could learn a lot with just a shop vac and a manometer/velometer if you don't have a bench , turbulance is your enimey and a velometer will show it to you , just a little brass tube in my case and some rubber hose , you know the routine I' sure , poke around the short side radious and watch the pressures . I pay anal attention to valve jobs and bought my own stuff , old Souix that works splendedly . I got tired of crap , I couldn't buy at any price what I wanted , all I got was bullshit .
505197 3 years ago
That's a great idea. Another good use for my shop vac besides clearing the port while I grind. I will try it the next time I port some more heads. I have a set of Ka heads with 2.070 intakes that I hear are similar to a C casting. I'd love to have my own valve grinding equipment. Now after reading some David Vizard articles, I wish I had back-cut the valves while I had the chance.
HeavyOlds 3 years ago
I match port intakes by drilling location holes in the corners of sung intk . Drill each corner through the man-gas-head , gaskets are indexed and reused in same loc , use pins and loc gasket to parts and port to taste , I like a smooth interface . Use same gaskets , hover the man with hoist and use pins to locate everything , snug it , pull pins and torque , what you have is dead nuts , Just look and consider where to drill . snafu can be drilled and plugged never had toyet use spideysense
505197 3 years ago
I had thought a shop vac and mass air meter and use dvom to read the flow. I didn't think of checking the airflow for turbulance. Mine was just a random thought and I've never ported heads. Cool idea.
ztwntyn8 3 years ago