Honestly, the lopey sound is very subtle with the NSR cams. You almost cant tell it was cammed as far as sound goes. I did get 34 HP and 20 ft lbs of TQ though. if you are looking for jump in power, they are ok $1000 installed. Check out my Open Headers video. That was with stage 3 cams and modded heads. It's expensive... cost me $8.000 in heads, cams, Tq Converter, labor and tuning. I did pickup 135 HP and 120 Ft lbs of TQ and went 11's in the 1/4 mile.
@marcspaz thats all i want i gues i have longtubes 4.10 and just installed frpp intake throttlebody and pullies and i need some cams to really get gains from that intake. your car sounds really good though i like it i have some dyno vids dont have any yet with the intake throttle body or pullies maybe soon though thanks
@marcspaz thats funny you say the mutha thumprs because i believe thats what i am going to install. i want power but for being more a driver than a racecar i would like sound over power but i want some gains in power to. my buddy has almost the same setup i do but has hotrods so i wanted to go atleast a different cam and also maybe get a little power than him with the thumprs also thanks again
What year? LOL A 4.6L is a 4.6L. Doesn't matter what body is wrapped around it. I have a new 5.0L going in as I type. Once its tuned I'l post some new videos.
If you are building the bottom end then go stage III spr cams, stage II heads...stage III heads are more for cars running rediculous flow with blowers or turbos running over 12psi
The stage III heads and stage III spr cams are not very suitable for a street car...very good gains for a track car though. Comp recommends a built bottom end for those cams I believe, check their site. I run the SPR stage II cams right now and I love them. Car sounds great man
Thanks for the Kudos and advice on the car! I am not going to use it as a daily driver anymore starting around the Novermber time frame. I want to build a really beefy track car, but still fall into the "street class" door slammer classes. It will be a slow process cuz of cash flow.
I looked into the headrequirements for the cams, but not the block. I am going to forge the bottom-end so I can get the revs needed to make the high-end power.
I did the install myself. A dealer will charge you around $700 - $800. A small shop might save you a few dollars. I paid $650 for the cams and get a spring compressor on loan from a friend.
My dyno numbers are 332/319 at the wheels on a dynojet dyno in the mid of summer. 98* day @ 90+% humidity. What a nasty day.
My Best 1/4 was on 12.844, but I had some major squating problems. I have fixed the suspension and bought some DR's to see what it will do this season.
These cams do not require VCT limiters or lockouts, nor do they require a spring change. The lobe overlap in minimal and the max lift is stock. They open sooner and stay open longer to breath better.
I have the C&L Street CAI (upgrading to RACE with the head swap this Spring). I am running American Racing long tube headers and catted X-pipe with a Magnaflow Cat-back exhaust. FRPP 4.10:1 R&P.
Yes, I am upgrading to Livernois Stage 3 Heads and Comp Cams Stage 3 XFI SPR Cams. I should gain 1k-2k RPM's and 60+ rwhp. My goal is to beat the guy @ the track who just slapped a supercharger on his car...LOL
Seriously, I'm trying to get into the 11's NA in a solid, full weight street car. Anyone can strip 500 lbs out of a 300-320 rwhp S197and make the suspension so stiff it doesn't move, and get in the 11's. I want my car to be comfortable enough to drive 1000 miles, or run 11's.
with those upgrades you will hit around 11.4, 11.6 without cutting weight, but i was gonna to do exact thing, but it requires a gt dual fuel pumps, 39lb injectors, msd coils,special spark plugs, better fuel rails. then your rear end will need to be upgraded to an eaton posi unit with better axles, i was gonna to all of that stuff to my car, but it cost around 10,000 plus and the car will crazy fast but it just wont be good for the steet. and the time done, might as well get a custom built motor
Wow, I don't know who told you that all that stuff needs to happen, but I have friends running 550 rwhp on 39# injector, boost-a-pump, and an otherwise stock fuel system, Stock trans and rear, and stock ignition (cooler plugs though).
I am adding DR's and a Eaton TruTrac for traction, but the stock rear 8.8 is good for 750+ to the wheels.
I priced everything out. Since I do my own work, I am looking at about $4k.
god DAMN those 3 valves sound awesome
rjeezy325 1 month ago
im looking at cams and was wondering if the idel on these is lopey or are they nore like when the car idles you cant tell its cammed thanks
dagoose3829 7 months ago
@dagoose3829
Honestly, the lopey sound is very subtle with the NSR cams. You almost cant tell it was cammed as far as sound goes. I did get 34 HP and 20 ft lbs of TQ though. if you are looking for jump in power, they are ok $1000 installed. Check out my Open Headers video. That was with stage 3 cams and modded heads. It's expensive... cost me $8.000 in heads, cams, Tq Converter, labor and tuning. I did pickup 135 HP and 120 Ft lbs of TQ and went 11's in the 1/4 mile.
marcspaz 7 months ago
I almost forgot... if you are chasing sound more that power... get the Mother Thumpers. I know a few people in our club who are very happy with them.
marcspaz 7 months ago
@marcspaz thats all i want i gues i have longtubes 4.10 and just installed frpp intake throttlebody and pullies and i need some cams to really get gains from that intake. your car sounds really good though i like it i have some dyno vids dont have any yet with the intake throttle body or pullies maybe soon though thanks
dagoose3829 7 months ago
@marcspaz thats funny you say the mutha thumprs because i believe thats what i am going to install. i want power but for being more a driver than a racecar i would like sound over power but i want some gains in power to. my buddy has almost the same setup i do but has hotrods so i wanted to go atleast a different cam and also maybe get a little power than him with the thumprs also thanks again
dagoose3829 7 months ago
does anyone else notice how this sounds kinda like an mach 1
lax1234567889 8 months ago
@lax1234567889
What year? LOL A 4.6L is a 4.6L. Doesn't matter what body is wrapped around it. I have a new 5.0L going in as I type. Once its tuned I'l post some new videos.
marcspaz 8 months ago
@marcspaz 03-04
lax1234567889 7 months ago
That thing sounds sick man!
branman65 2 years ago
If you are building the bottom end then go stage III spr cams, stage II heads...stage III heads are more for cars running rediculous flow with blowers or turbos running over 12psi
06saleen3v 3 years ago
The stage III heads and stage III spr cams are not very suitable for a street car...very good gains for a track car though. Comp recommends a built bottom end for those cams I believe, check their site. I run the SPR stage II cams right now and I love them. Car sounds great man
06saleen3v 3 years ago
Thanks for the Kudos and advice on the car! I am not going to use it as a daily driver anymore starting around the Novermber time frame. I want to build a really beefy track car, but still fall into the "street class" door slammer classes. It will be a slow process cuz of cash flow.
I looked into the headrequirements for the cams, but not the block. I am going to forge the bottom-end so I can get the revs needed to make the high-end power.
marcspaz 3 years ago
what size are the headers? 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 ?
StngRayCorv 3 years ago
1 3/4
marcspaz 3 years ago
holy snaaaap !!!!!!! OMG i just wet my pants !!!!! that sounds freaking sick !!!!
all the best from Oman_cobra @ s197forums
ry855 3 years ago
How much did the cam install cost you? Looking to do the same to mine.
usbiker133t 3 years ago
I did the install myself. A dealer will charge you around $700 - $800. A small shop might save you a few dollars. I paid $650 for the cams and get a spring compressor on loan from a friend.
marcspaz 3 years ago
what are the dyno numbers, and 1/4 mile? so, you can use the stock heads and just install the cam without phasers?
StngRayCorv 3 years ago
My dyno numbers are 332/319 at the wheels on a dynojet dyno in the mid of summer. 98* day @ 90+% humidity. What a nasty day.
My Best 1/4 was on 12.844, but I had some major squating problems. I have fixed the suspension and bought some DR's to see what it will do this season.
These cams do not require VCT limiters or lockouts, nor do they require a spring change. The lobe overlap in minimal and the max lift is stock. They open sooner and stay open longer to breath better.
marcspaz 3 years ago
what kind of exhaust and air intake setup u have, and what kind of gears you have in the rear?
StngRayCorv 3 years ago
I have the C&L Street CAI (upgrading to RACE with the head swap this Spring). I am running American Racing long tube headers and catted X-pipe with a Magnaflow Cat-back exhaust. FRPP 4.10:1 R&P.
marcspaz 3 years ago
so you are gonna to get better heads? what kind?
StngRayCorv 3 years ago
Yes, I am upgrading to Livernois Stage 3 Heads and Comp Cams Stage 3 XFI SPR Cams. I should gain 1k-2k RPM's and 60+ rwhp. My goal is to beat the guy @ the track who just slapped a supercharger on his car...LOL
Seriously, I'm trying to get into the 11's NA in a solid, full weight street car. Anyone can strip 500 lbs out of a 300-320 rwhp S197and make the suspension so stiff it doesn't move, and get in the 11's. I want my car to be comfortable enough to drive 1000 miles, or run 11's.
marcspaz 3 years ago
with those upgrades you will hit around 11.4, 11.6 without cutting weight, but i was gonna to do exact thing, but it requires a gt dual fuel pumps, 39lb injectors, msd coils,special spark plugs, better fuel rails. then your rear end will need to be upgraded to an eaton posi unit with better axles, i was gonna to all of that stuff to my car, but it cost around 10,000 plus and the car will crazy fast but it just wont be good for the steet. and the time done, might as well get a custom built motor
StngRayCorv 3 years ago
Wow, I don't know who told you that all that stuff needs to happen, but I have friends running 550 rwhp on 39# injector, boost-a-pump, and an otherwise stock fuel system, Stock trans and rear, and stock ignition (cooler plugs though).
I am adding DR's and a Eaton TruTrac for traction, but the stock rear 8.8 is good for 750+ to the wheels.
I priced everything out. Since I do my own work, I am looking at about $4k.
marcspaz 3 years ago