this ican be a huge money saver for dublicating miniature peices . i can imaging you can even mass produce with what ever mold you created. that said, there are a bunch of tiny warhammer 40k individual pieces, like a forge wotld shoulder pad or power fist or head, can this method work if i use two molds on either side and enclose a ball off greenstuff inside?
cant you use a harder curing putty and a second stage of greenstuff (along with the proper lubricant) to make models of 3D items with this method that hold more details? Personally I plan to try making a variant power axe using this method with a few modifications to stick on my Rune Priest.
The mould won't last forever. But you can get quite a few uses out of it. Its good for hard to get bits. I even made a two piece mold of a skeleton left arm, old skeleton face and some cadian symbols. The lose in detail verys but the more simple the mould the less is loss. Its great for space marine shoulder symbols.
Take a blank shoulder and one with the symbol you want. Make a mould of the sybol then cast it on the blank pad.
another thing you can do is make two halves and bind them tighly together and have a hole leading between them and pour plaster into that hole until the mold is full
2 sided molds are very difficult simply with green stuff. You need more regular molding processes for which there are other videos you can find online on hobby sites.
wtf sorry I'm not into the slang of "miniature language" (and english as well :D ) but did you just replicate the wheel? If I type in "mold" at Wikipedia I get something... else.
First he makes a mold of the wheel out of green stuff and then a casting of the wheel. His terminology is correct, it's not "miniature language" but the language of molding and casting that has existed for a long time.
Check out my Hobgoblin video series for info about Green Stuff aka Kneadite. It's a two part epoxy putty that cures after a couple hours once mixed. I buy mine from Gale Force Nine. Thanks for your comment.
Green Stuff is very well known within the hobby. You should be able to get it (or at least ordered in) at any model shop. You can also get it from Games Workshop, or a number of independent retailers.
Great video mate, exactly what I was looking for.
UnionJack1989 1 month ago
This is perfect for making books on shoulder pats, you only need 1 side to have the shape and the other one should stick to the should pat.
Thanks for the nice tutorial!
barttie217 7 months ago
this ican be a huge money saver for dublicating miniature peices . i can imaging you can even mass produce with what ever mold you created. that said, there are a bunch of tiny warhammer 40k individual pieces, like a forge wotld shoulder pad or power fist or head, can this method work if i use two molds on either side and enclose a ball off greenstuff inside?
strapinhotpockets 1 year ago
i like your ring its pretty sick!
xXSC4TMANXx 2 years ago
cant you use a harder curing putty and a second stage of greenstuff (along with the proper lubricant) to make models of 3D items with this method that hold more details? Personally I plan to try making a variant power axe using this method with a few modifications to stick on my Rune Priest.
Dragonitte1 2 years ago
nice tutorial thanks buddy :)
FlameheadCSF 2 years ago
The mould won't last forever. But you can get quite a few uses out of it. Its good for hard to get bits. I even made a two piece mold of a skeleton left arm, old skeleton face and some cadian symbols. The lose in detail verys but the more simple the mould the less is loss. Its great for space marine shoulder symbols.
Take a blank shoulder and one with the symbol you want. Make a mould of the sybol then cast it on the blank pad.
TrebenWhahaha 2 years ago
should mould two sides of a model and put them together and mould a base and paint or make the model a statue
alandavidpaul 2 years ago
what has the world come too?!
xtankfighterx 3 years ago
Do anyone know how I can make SM shoulder pads with GS mold?
anpe1001 3 years ago
Perhaps you could do like the detail side and then carve it out if you get me...
felixisis 3 years ago
It's a good idea but that seems like a lot of green stuff usage for one little bit.
Also next time, more lighting and focus the camera better
DazzaBo 3 years ago 2
yeh it is alot but u can keep re-using the mould so thats why i think it works better for smaller pices but its an awesome idea still
3tymerz 3 years ago
I agree, but once youve got the mould, youve got it 4eva, and for the mould there will be a cheaper alternative, say, Industrial filler.
Also, Great Vids, They Helped!
felixisis 3 years ago
Great Vid!
RAYREGURGITATION 3 years ago
another thing you can do is make two halves and bind them tighly together and have a hole leading between them and pour plaster into that hole until the mold is full
inthedark45 3 years ago
Hey Xander. It's asheira from CDO. Great idea useing greenstuff for a mold ^.^
asheira 3 years ago
U r a genius!
Skarsnik16 4 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
And u r a dumbass. That has been done for thousands of years.
snylekkie 3 years ago
Great series. Lighting wasn't too good in part 3, which made it hard to see the mold.
Koshskorner 4 years ago
wow! dude you should make a tutorial on how to accurately mold two sided models like an actual warhammer firgure or something!
megamistral 4 years ago
2 sided molds are very difficult simply with green stuff. You need more regular molding processes for which there are other videos you can find online on hobby sites.
XanderXereus 4 years ago
purity seal time!
lostcollecter 4 years ago 2
"FYI, mold is the correct spelling in the US, and mould is the correct spelling in the UK. Either is acceptable in Canada." As stated in the notes.
Yes, the wheel is replicated. The videos are for Miniature users, so it caters to that audience.
XanderXereus 4 years ago
wtf sorry I'm not into the slang of "miniature language" (and english as well :D ) but did you just replicate the wheel? If I type in "mold" at Wikipedia I get something... else.
Meggadezz 4 years ago
type mold with a U after the o. Wait for it... mould tadaa! Hope I helped. Yeah he did replicate the wheel.
Alienerd 4 years ago
First he makes a mold of the wheel out of green stuff and then a casting of the wheel. His terminology is correct, it's not "miniature language" but the language of molding and casting that has existed for a long time.
ysg 3 years ago
Thank you so much. I was down to my very last shield emblem when I discovered this video.
slubberdagollian 4 years ago
Nice vid! Sums up nicely what to do with some handy tips!
LordNeves 4 years ago
Hey, thanks. That's really helpful.
ThePhazer 4 years ago
Check out my Hobgoblin video series for info about Green Stuff aka Kneadite. It's a two part epoxy putty that cures after a couple hours once mixed. I buy mine from Gale Force Nine. Thanks for your comment.
XanderXereus 4 years ago
the series was cool, but you never explained what "green stuff" is or where it's available.
trashgroupvideo 4 years ago
Green Stuff is very well known within the hobby. You should be able to get it (or at least ordered in) at any model shop. You can also get it from Games Workshop, or a number of independent retailers.
Xethemez 4 years ago
this is incredebly helpful. well done on being the first to make a video about it!
aaronsgay 4 years ago