Contrary to what your video says, it's not cement board on the walls...it's hardi board...and you installed it on the pan liner INTO the pan bottom. This insures the hariboard will be saturated with moisture from the pan & get soggy wet, causing a problem in less than a year. Trust me, hardi is like oatmeal when saturated with water over time. That wall tile you put on it will fall off..2007 ?? It's now 2011, you might want to do a follow up with your customer !!
Dude, why is the tile along the wall all kicked out and crooked. I am happy to see you didn't cover the weeping holes in the drain. I hope your plumbing work looks better. Sorry for the bad comment but you butchers need to go back to the meat department.
8 years ago my husband and i installed a new shower did all the steps correctly including durock on the walls, we put down durock in the floor instead of tarpaper. then 2 layers of concrete, properly sloped. We did not know about the shower liner so our shower failed have watched dozens of videos very helpful. My husband repaired the floor, put down another layer of wood, then roofing paper, metal mesh, special pan mortar mix, then the UPC liner as directed, then another layer of mortar.
there is no way u can be happy with this shower pan , u cut the old cement board 4'' from the end ,(u know that is going to crack in 2 mo or sooner )the pan looks fine in the middle and so on ,but u fucked up the cuts (left top side),there was no need to run the 2x2 on the walls . if u wanted u might have run a cove base at least against the wall over lapping the cut u did on the wall (so u could hide that crack line that is coming )good luck !i hope u don't do this for a living
I'm a DIYer and I have done a few showers now. There's a reason why you do things certain ways. Preslope 1/4" per ft to drain the water that WILL leak to the pan. The vinyl pan HAS to go 8-10 inches up the sides without puncture or you WILL have rot, mold, etc... Around the 1min mark and you will see the damage that probably went a LOT further up than what was torn up and replaced. This is better than SOME jobs I've seen, but could've been better.
the water soaked cement bed was soft becacsue it was probably a mixture of sand and sheet rock mud left over by the mudding crew that did the walls. these homes are built and sold latter to the unsuspecting. a home builder would have been on site to insure everything was up to snuff. mortar does not soften when wet portland cement can harden under water because cement does not dry it carbonates but using carbon dioxide disolved in water from the air.
the real problem is the professionals who built the house saved a buck for them and tiled sheet rock relying on the tile grout to keep everything dry.
I wonder if the shower is still OK, based on the negative feedback here. I've learned the hard way how important it is to do it right the first time -- previous owners rebuilt my shower and 10 years later I'm in the process of ripping out loads of rotting, insect-infested wood.
Why update the drain if your not going to preslope the pan? Your not going to be able to maximize the weep holes, now you have a standing pond of shit if the liner does leak.
No pre-slope under the shower liner is against any code in the united states. The liner should be no less than six inches high around the walls. Sorry, not trying to bash your effort, but you have to research better next time before doing anything
well when it comes down to water damage prevention you need to have your paper moisture barrier thats on the walls over lap your shower pan membrain 8". i didnt see anything that made me believe that water damage wont happen again. im not a dumb shmuck with a lame opinion either, im a high end custom tile setter in the sf bay area
amen! the liner should be a minimum of 3'' ABOVE the curb which by the way also should be covered. not to mention that the sub floor was not sloped. I saw no gravel for drainage at the weep holes of the sub-drain. if these concepts are strange to you ...you don't really know what you are doing
I just posted a video on how to test a shower pan, This was a great follow up to mine. Kudos! I see that you added text to your video, it was al little hard to see but I liked the Video. Correct me if I'm wrong but you are using a mac right? See ya Tileman.
Thanks for commenting. I took pictures, then did a Powerpoint with test, then my son uploaded it to you-tube. We noticed the text wasn't readable on the pictures so we rewrote the text in the information section- to the right of the video.
not removing the door and installing the vinyl over the curb to "save the look" of the vintage installation is irresponsible and just plain lazy.
the vinyl should be a min of 3' above the curb all around. is that sub floor sloped? if not, it's wrong. where is the drainage gravel at the weep holes? without those basic principals that job is almost certain to fail. if not by leaking (which it will) by becoming a none draining sludgefest of mold and crap oozing up thru the grout!
TBplayer you are correct, and in state of Washington t he new code is 1/4" per foot of pre-slope and top coat is required and also they changed from 6" from floor to 8" for pan liner height. I am running crew of 8 tile setters for the last 10 years and trust me many of them come along like this guy kungfu above posting comments and suggestions and guess what they do not last in tile business on the end they are working for some grout company grouting every day.
No offense but that is one ugly bottom if I ever saw one. Not bad the way you put it together how eve using the board on the walls instead of re muding the old stall will lead to cracks where the board meets the old concrete wall. I get 1,200 to 1,400$ for a bottom depending on its size ( Virginia).
It would take a professional or handyman 2 or 3 days of time and labor. Total parts cost less than $200, a tile man would charge around $1,000 for labor.
hi. in picture 5, did you glue the roofing felt to wood subfloor? You put the pre-pan mud right over the top of the roofing felt? Lastly, i see that in the picture of the prepan, it looks like you have new wood around the perimeter of the shower...did you use new wood to nail the roofing felt to and frame the mud? thx.
I stapled it to the floor and sides. The main purpose of the roofing felt is to keep the mud from flowing thru the gaps in the floor boards and keep it out of the wall cavities. Yes, the pre-pan mud went right on the felt. I fastened some wood pieces between the studs to keep the mud out of the wall cavities (served as a backstop for the felt and orange waterproofing membrane).
hi. thx. Can i ask you a question. I am remodeling puting in a pre-pan like you did, but it is on the 1st floor so it already has a cement slab. can i poor the pan right on top of the old cement slab or do i need something to bond the new cement to the old cement? Also, what type of motor did you use for pan? 1:4 portland cement:sand ? thx
hey, any way you can send me a copy of the video subtitles if i send you my email address? Great tips and vid, but cant read subtitles? Im about ready to re-do my bathroom and need all the help i can get ! Let me know
I want to install a shower in my basement, everything is concrete do I still need a waterproof membrane/ I would appreciate your suggestions
NOesmeralda1 4 months ago
when did you install the pan ..?? i never saw the pan that Replaces the old Pan..
meatpole55 6 months ago
Contrary to what your video says, it's not cement board on the walls...it's hardi board...and you installed it on the pan liner INTO the pan bottom. This insures the hariboard will be saturated with moisture from the pan & get soggy wet, causing a problem in less than a year. Trust me, hardi is like oatmeal when saturated with water over time. That wall tile you put on it will fall off..2007 ?? It's now 2011, you might want to do a follow up with your customer !!
bob4friends 8 months ago
People like you know only enough to be Dangerous..
bigtoysdt 8 months ago
Dude, why is the tile along the wall all kicked out and crooked. I am happy to see you didn't cover the weeping holes in the drain. I hope your plumbing work looks better. Sorry for the bad comment but you butchers need to go back to the meat department.
Cambria0001 8 months ago
8 years ago my husband and i installed a new shower did all the steps correctly including durock on the walls, we put down durock in the floor instead of tarpaper. then 2 layers of concrete, properly sloped. We did not know about the shower liner so our shower failed have watched dozens of videos very helpful. My husband repaired the floor, put down another layer of wood, then roofing paper, metal mesh, special pan mortar mix, then the UPC liner as directed, then another layer of mortar.
MultiGrandmalinda 11 months ago
70ish shower, rip it all out
mojo84th 11 months ago
there is no way u can be happy with this shower pan , u cut the old cement board 4'' from the end ,(u know that is going to crack in 2 mo or sooner )the pan looks fine in the middle and so on ,but u fucked up the cuts (left top side),there was no need to run the 2x2 on the walls . if u wanted u might have run a cove base at least against the wall over lapping the cut u did on the wall (so u could hide that crack line that is coming )good luck !i hope u don't do this for a living
albafier 11 months ago
I'm a DIYer and I have done a few showers now. There's a reason why you do things certain ways. Preslope 1/4" per ft to drain the water that WILL leak to the pan. The vinyl pan HAS to go 8-10 inches up the sides without puncture or you WILL have rot, mold, etc... Around the 1min mark and you will see the damage that probably went a LOT further up than what was torn up and replaced. This is better than SOME jobs I've seen, but could've been better.
boblyndh 1 year ago
Nice job!
llazy1 1 year ago
the auther needs to stop deleting comments. thats how you know how the fuckers work ethics truly is
bennieblanco13 1 year ago
Comment removed
boomboom2005 1 year ago
Comment removed
boomboom2005 1 year ago
ha ha ha he nailed backerboard on? wtf dude, you know of water lines at all?. That mud job has more lumps,waves and dips than the homemade gravy lol.
madcrazy1672 1 year ago
the water soaked cement bed was soft becacsue it was probably a mixture of sand and sheet rock mud left over by the mudding crew that did the walls. these homes are built and sold latter to the unsuspecting. a home builder would have been on site to insure everything was up to snuff. mortar does not soften when wet portland cement can harden under water because cement does not dry it carbonates but using carbon dioxide disolved in water from the air.
datzfast 2 years ago
the real problem is the professionals who built the house saved a buck for them and tiled sheet rock relying on the tile grout to keep everything dry.
datzfast 2 years ago
Another hack at work. I hope it was his own shower and not a clients.
Jaz @ Tile 4 You inc.
jazcastiglione 2 years ago
only you and you alone can fix it because the original hired professional could not.,
right,. well your fired. these videos are for people fed up with the professional work.
we will do it ourselves thank you very much.
datzfast 2 years ago
show us some of your supreme work! idiot
boomboom2005 1 year ago
im with you jaz. these hacks take it all personal when we be real. they should go dig ditches
bennieblanco13 1 year ago
I wonder if the shower is still OK, based on the negative feedback here. I've learned the hard way how important it is to do it right the first time -- previous owners rebuilt my shower and 10 years later I'm in the process of ripping out loads of rotting, insect-infested wood.
thebigsee 2 years ago
This job will fail within 6 months to a year,
It is not bonded to the old wall correctley or any type of anti fracture between the old and the new,also the curb needs to be wraped also.
1quick94gt 2 years ago
new pan still looks like crap
bennieblanco13 2 years ago
Comment removed
boomboom2005 1 year ago
wow your good. very good come back. with a statement like that i can tell your a chump
bennieblanco13 1 year ago
you're welcome
boomboom2005 1 year ago
haha damn your dumb. how can you defend your work when it looks like crap? whatever man, good luck
bennieblanco13 1 year ago
try your work in -20'C like we do here in canada, it'll start looking like crap too
boomboom2005 1 year ago
no matter where that was set, it looks like shit. thats all im trying to say. you hacks need to accept it
bennieblanco13 1 year ago
Why update the drain if your not going to preslope the pan? Your not going to be able to maximize the weep holes, now you have a standing pond of shit if the liner does leak.
madcrazy1672 2 years ago
what fucking weep holes, the drain is not a sink drain.
datzfast 2 years ago
modern shower drain have weep holes. Get a clue dude.
madcrazy1672 2 years ago
datzfast is either an idiot or has never put a shower drain together. probably has never floated at pan. standard drains have three weep holes.
bennieblanco13 1 year ago
No pre-slope under the shower liner is against any code in the united states. The liner should be no less than six inches high around the walls. Sorry, not trying to bash your effort, but you have to research better next time before doing anything
kungfuacidtrip 2 years ago
did you do the slope free handed?
maximus1024215 2 years ago
Nice! I really like how you kept that vintage look.
HOUSEandBUILDERdtCOM 3 years ago
This video changed my life. I'm going to tile everything I can find.
ckanesix 3 years ago
lol!!!!
FireAce44 3 years ago
well when it comes down to water damage prevention you need to have your paper moisture barrier thats on the walls over lap your shower pan membrain 8". i didnt see anything that made me believe that water damage wont happen again. im not a dumb shmuck with a lame opinion either, im a high end custom tile setter in the sf bay area
bennieblanco13 3 years ago
amen! the liner should be a minimum of 3'' ABOVE the curb which by the way also should be covered. not to mention that the sub floor was not sloped. I saw no gravel for drainage at the weep holes of the sub-drain. if these concepts are strange to you ...you don't really know what you are doing
TBplayer12 2 years ago
I just posted a video on how to test a shower pan, This was a great follow up to mine. Kudos! I see that you added text to your video, it was al little hard to see but I liked the Video. Correct me if I'm wrong but you are using a mac right? See ya Tileman.
ceramictiletonight 3 years ago
Thanks for commenting. I took pictures, then did a Powerpoint with test, then my son uploaded it to you-tube. We noticed the text wasn't readable on the pictures so we rewrote the text in the information section- to the right of the video.
DerPicnicker 3 years ago
nice video
masonmitch 3 years ago
looks like a retarded monkey did the tile job
celluloidvoyer 3 years ago
I think you should trying to do a pan replacement, then talk. The guy not only did the job correctly he took the time to make a video of the process.
ceramictiletonight 3 years ago
not removing the door and installing the vinyl over the curb to "save the look" of the vintage installation is irresponsible and just plain lazy.
the vinyl should be a min of 3' above the curb all around. is that sub floor sloped? if not, it's wrong. where is the drainage gravel at the weep holes? without those basic principals that job is almost certain to fail. if not by leaking (which it will) by becoming a none draining sludgefest of mold and crap oozing up thru the grout!
TBplayer12 2 years ago
TBplayer you are correct, and in state of Washington t he new code is 1/4" per foot of pre-slope and top coat is required and also they changed from 6" from floor to 8" for pan liner height. I am running crew of 8 tile setters for the last 10 years and trust me many of them come along like this guy kungfu above posting comments and suggestions and guess what they do not last in tile business on the end they are working for some grout company grouting every day.
VEGAMVPP 2 years ago
No offense but that is one ugly bottom if I ever saw one. Not bad the way you put it together how eve using the board on the walls instead of re muding the old stall will lead to cracks where the board meets the old concrete wall. I get 1,200 to 1,400$ for a bottom depending on its size ( Virginia).
anythingtile 3 years ago
anything but spelling.
ceramictiletonight 3 years ago
A job like that what would you charge........ roughly
CNYRON 4 years ago
It would take a professional or handyman 2 or 3 days of time and labor. Total parts cost less than $200, a tile man would charge around $1,000 for labor.
DerPicnicker 4 years ago
at least
masonmitch 3 years ago
hi. in picture 5, did you glue the roofing felt to wood subfloor? You put the pre-pan mud right over the top of the roofing felt? Lastly, i see that in the picture of the prepan, it looks like you have new wood around the perimeter of the shower...did you use new wood to nail the roofing felt to and frame the mud? thx.
howliboy1 4 years ago
I stapled it to the floor and sides. The main purpose of the roofing felt is to keep the mud from flowing thru the gaps in the floor boards and keep it out of the wall cavities. Yes, the pre-pan mud went right on the felt. I fastened some wood pieces between the studs to keep the mud out of the wall cavities (served as a backstop for the felt and orange waterproofing membrane).
DerPicnicker 4 years ago
hi. thx. Can i ask you a question. I am remodeling puting in a pre-pan like you did, but it is on the 1st floor so it already has a cement slab. can i poor the pan right on top of the old cement slab or do i need something to bond the new cement to the old cement? Also, what type of motor did you use for pan? 1:4 portland cement:sand ? thx
howliboy1 4 years ago
hey, any way you can send me a copy of the video subtitles if i send you my email address? Great tips and vid, but cant read subtitles? Im about ready to re-do my bathroom and need all the help i can get ! Let me know
howliboy1 4 years ago
Check the video description. You can find the subtitles rewritten there
DerPicnicker 4 years ago
oh wow, ok thx
howliboy1 4 years ago
Pretty sure you are supposed to replace
the curb and take your new shower pan liner
up at least 3" above the curb. Here in cali
we make them at least 10" off the subfloor.
jackrodus 4 years ago
It was much easier to retrofit and leave the curb intact. Original waterproofing didn't go over the curb and lasted 46 years.
DerPicnicker 4 years ago
nice
pinkyboy3 4 years ago 2
freaking amazing. it's the Schindler's List of shower pan replacement videos.
DerPicnicker 4 years ago