Added: 2 years ago
From: hiramcook
Views: 2,573
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (42)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • By drilling a hole on the bottom you destroying the wood burning feature. It would have been better to enlarge the doorway so you can slide in the trangia burner. This would have made it easier to light too.

  • @hiramcook can the volcano stove serve as a wood stove? also should we be concerned with using aluminum to cook with? (the whole Alzheimer's thing) btw good video thanks

  • @yoitsspiderman There is circumstantial evidence linking this metal with Alzheimer's disease, but no causal relationship has yet been proved. As evidence for other causes continues to grow, a possible link with aluminium seems increasingly unlikely.

  • Awesome Vid! Thanks. Waiting on my trangia to try this myself.

  • Hiram thankyou for all your awesome videos!

  • Thank you for your informative videos, I too just orderd my swiss volcano stove from cheaper than dirt, and upon watching your tests have decided that I wish to purchase the small trangia as my primary power source. Coul you please tell me the model number or name of your trangia, and where to purchase it? I see you Marine corps sticker, "Semper Fi"!

  • At any rate, Joe from Classic Stoves came up with the idea of cutting the top of the bottle off and adding a wire bail. Makes the unit much more versatile. You can carry an alcohol stove, matches, fuel etc,, inside.

  • Alcohol burners are best kept warm in a pocket with water in the bottle ready to boil. Make yourself a pad burner from a 2oz shoe polish tin and you will see I mean. Drop a lit match on it and its at full heat, instantly. Simpler than gas cans. Easier to operate when your fingers are stiff through exposure. Nice hot water bottle.

  • What chu talkin bout Willis? You want me to carry my alky stove in my pocket? No thanks, it rides in my kitchen kit in the pack.

  • frozen fingers work better on a warm burner and the quicker the water is heated and inside the body, the better in poor conditions. This is not about ideals, it is about avoiding a 'survival' condition.

  • Sorry beehopper, in a "survival" situation I doubt I'm going to be messing around with an alcohol stove. I'm gonna be building a FIRE.

  • When you are hypothermic, you are not going to be able to build a fire. A spark or match to a pad burner can be your saviour.

  • Your post would be better worded if you said "When hypothermic, it is hard to build a fire".

    I have been hypothermic before, and I built a fire. Birch bark, rubbed cedar bark, a piece of triox all work wonders on fire building.

    But it's best to plan so that you do not get hypothermia.

  • Triox is a great back up.  It does not match liquid fuel for calorific density but can be used to fire damp wood. There may still be positions where you are unable to collect even damp wood, Carrying two quarts of water and enough fuel to raise the temperature to hot (with high calorie food) is the best you can do to maximise survival chances.

  • Man there's just no end to your postulating. I'm telling you I HAVE BEEN THERE, and a raging fire is the quickest way to feel better about being cold and wet not a hot cup of Earl Grey.

    Wet wood? Split it with your pocketknife, it's dry inside.

  • BUT if don't feel competent to start a fire go ahead and use your alky stove. I'll be drying my clothes out by stoking mine.

  • It's hardly about competence when mechanically unable to move due to injury or cold. That is what happens when hypothermia strikes, your muscles will not fire. Every movement is slow and tiresome. Knowing your limitations in such a condition is important to survival and the last thing I'd want to be doing is crawling around looking for burnables when I already have the heat in my pocket. Once the heat had pulled me up ito better function, then I would construct a fire if there was no con etc

  • You are trying to limit your discussion to one singular imaginary circumstance. I'm talking from experience. If all you have is an alky stove to fall back on in an emergency you are not prepared to face it. Best wishes on your outdoor endeavors.

  • It is from experience. It's not a nice place to be. with body core temperature at around 34 deg C (iirc) it takes about four minutes to move six feet and recover. That's four minutes getting colder, weaker. Time wasted. Accidents happen when you least expect. You can do all you like to mitigate them, but with time, something will happen. A hot drink is the fastest way to warm up when exposed.  Even in company you should always be carrying your own personal means of getting a hot drink.

  • Like I said, best wishes on your outdoor endeavors.

  • Assam (the reviver) or a blend containing much of it is what is required, not poncey Earl Grey. No wonder you have not had much joy with tea.

  • Turn off your computer, go outside, and thank the creator you are alive. You spend too much time stalking the internet.

  • Have to hve a cup of tea first.

  • always wondered how well those would work. great vid.

  • Hiram, Just wanted you to know that you inspired me to make a stove video test for others on Hammock Forums.. While not as professional, and not as good, it help them see my progress.

    Thanks for all your hard work and efforts!!!

  • A flat pad burner may also suit if underneath the holes.  A cotton pad directly on the bottom will do. DONT CUT the bottom.

  • A small central burner such as zellph's Mini-Jet Alcohol Stove would suit this boiling system. I would like to see that used with esbit as the fuel source in this boiling unit. Even for one cup I think you should use the bottle. No flames should come out of the exhaust ports, this is sucking heat to vaporise wasted fuel. Using the trangia with the simmer ring to half heat may result in a faster boil.

  • Good test and an interesting stove. However, the very small cup is not practical for meal cooking compared to the US canteen cup. Perhaps they only used it for making Swiss Miss instant cocoa.

  • Again, the power of the burner was limited by the choked airflow--reduced to the power of a tealight. The fuel was vaporizing faster than it could burn inside the compartment. What fuel was unburned finally found air for combustion when exiting the vent holes.

  • BrokenAeroVT, you are exactly right.

    Another negative of this setup, tho less significant; the ridges on the windscreen/pot stand pull more heat away than a smooth cylinder would.

    A double walled unit w/ a cylinder on the outside & an hourglass shape on the inside & both walls sealed at top & bottom would be better. The narrow portion of the inner part would align at the burner level to funnel combustion air into the flame & widen back up to allow the gases to flow around the pot.

  • Are you describing a Vulcan Safety Chef?

  • MrVdro,

    I don't know if I've ever seen one, so it's possible!

  • I made a small "ion" stove from 2 grape juice cans. Then opened the hole just a bit with a dremel tool. I always use the bottle for heating water.

  • Very nice! The large Trangia does not Fit?? I bet the water would boil quicker if the bottle was corked Another great video Hiram!

  • I put the cork on top of the bottle loosely but do not set it tight. The bottle could burst from the pressure.

  • I realize that, I have a friend who owns one of these and I have borrowed it a few times. I should have been more specific in details when I posted! Thanks for putting that out there for others to see!

  • Yes, you should have been specific, "Dont use a mallet to close the cork, you're not bottling wine."

  • Would you like a can of Pledge and a rag to rub it in? When I make a mistake I at least make it right by admiting it!

  • Do you think it would assist the burn rate or ease the cork? I really dont think that you can accidentally make the cork so tight that it would cause a problem. The pressure required to rupture the can will be in excess of that required to blow the cork. Before it can get to such a pressure the neck will have expanded a little, easing the cork. It will pop. The release of hot water may in itself be problematic. I wouldnt be surprised if it were to pop the cork even if rammed hard.

  • Or simply add a metal tube into the cork that goes into the bottle as a release or a tube whistle to allow you to know when the water has come to a boil, a cap for the tube allows for the bottle to be taken on the trail with liquid still inside without spilling. I never thought the bottle would blow up, I knew the cork would blow out first, but in my original post I intended for the bottle to be covered to bring down the boil time that was all.

  • If you use the can to brew tea then it is possible to block a tube, so then you need to carry something to keep it clear and remember to check it even in poor light. the groove down the side is much lower risk as it will tend to clear itself and is in your face and easily cleared with a wipe of the finger. If you learn to tie a bottle sling you will have no need for anti spill caps. A bottle sling very good for chilling beer in a stream.

  • The risk is the sudden release of scalding water from the cork popping. not a burst canister. If a cut is made down the side of the cork with a fine saw so as to make a vent which is easily kept clear then the cork is unlikely to stick, will show the boil point and will keeep the internal pressure low so you wont get upset by a creaking pot. Just stay away ubtil ten minutes after the fuel runs out if you here a pot creaking. If possible push the pot over with a nearby stick .

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more