Added: 2 years ago
From: MagicPatrick1
Views: 67,246
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  • hey patrick, thx for the video, can you tell me what is the best way to know how much to open the air vent on a unit like this?

  • @wilson3707able You'd need a draft guage

  • mradesanctis, your right on all those but im shure it is an igition transformer, not an ignitor.

  • Great video, I like the how you take the time to explain what everything is actually called. That way I don't sound like a complete moron when I walk into the supply store!

  • @cuba65 Thanks for watching!

  • @cuba65 can you make this unit burn used motor oil

  • if you push the reset button and it doesn't light don't keep pushing it! so many people do this they keep pushing the reset and all thats gonna do if if doesn't light is put more fuel in the combustion chamber. and then when someone does finally pull the nozzle and change it and re gap the electrodes its gonna all light and fill up the basement with smoke.you should always take off the filter housing and clean it add replace the nozzle and gap the electrodes every year.

  • When I start the furnace, the furnace fan runs, but the pilot light wont light up. Unsure of what starts the pilot light, but it wont light up, again I can smell the diesel, thats not a problem, I shut it down immediately when it wont light up.

  • @Rink03 pull out the nozzle and electrode assembly and put in a new nozzle and re gap the electrodes you can get a gaping tool were you buy the nozzle then it should light up. the nozzle is what the oil comes out of allot of times they will get gummed up.

  • Cant get my American Standard Furnace Model ACD-401 to light upm the engine runs but it wont light up, can smell the diesel but no lighting, I have no idea what kind of lighting mechanism it uses, but I need to know in order to gert it to work, living in a cold house currently till then.

  • @Rink03 Ummm... no idea what you got there. MOST models have a transformer and electrodes. It could be as simple as a fouled up nozzel, or as complex as cracked/corroded electrodes or bad transformer. I'd NOT recommend servicing it yourself. To troubleshoot the transformer is subject to 10,000-14,000+ Volts.

  • thanks--keep up the good work.

  • Open that bleeder on the filter assembly after you change the filter, that's why it's there. It refills the filter and gets the air out. If you bleed at the pump you better have something to catch the oil. Usually you won't need to unless pump looses it's prime. Oil is kind of a lost art. Nobody seems to do it right anymore. My employer doesn't have much in the way of testing equipment other than a smoke tester. A service pretty much is nozzle, filter, clean, gap electrodes. Cross fingers

  • A Thermo Pride deserves a tigerloop combo on its burner. put the bypass plug in the pump and double filtrate at least ,... the oil ,...before letting it see the nozzle . A oil melt down valve is a speciality valve designed to melt down in the event of a fire . leave it alone . it may void the safety features warranty. put some other valve to service the burner. A Jomar comes to mind or a small WOG valve...

  • I like the 8184g

  • at 0:44 that is your primary control. 1:04 its a ignitor not transformer 1:36 way more than 10,000 volts 2:00 its called a firomatic valve 2:37 ALWAYS clean it out 3:04 if you still have to bleed it at the bleeder then just do it all at once 3:33 thats not what atomizes the fuel the nozzle does 3:43 look up the word Atomization 4:06 smooth 4:51 you don't know where the plug goes do you? 5:00 I've never seen wires burn off My entire oil heat class got a good laugh out of the video though!
  • @mradesanctis Oh they have classes for this stuff?

    Haha j/k. Thanks for all your corrections and concerns. But as you can guess, I doubt many who actually watch this even understood a word I said. Try my "How to light a pilot video". These aren't intended for any DIY diagnosis or home owners to service thier own furnace. There is another one about tools if you like. Thanks again for watching!

  • @mradesanctis There's usually a guy like you in every class I've ever been in. Ohhhh look at me, I know all the answers... look at me, I'm awesome. ;) Gold star... gimme gimme gimme

    BTW... just an fyi... Sure, it's commonly known as an igniter, but it is also called an ignition TRANSFORMER. What do you think is in that little box to get the 120volts to "way more than 10,000 volts"? THAT particular TRANSFORMER is most likely a 20kV igniter since it is OEM... BUT there are 10kV igniters too.

  • My burner motor went Christmas night, it was a Westinghouse 3450rpm, 1/10hp, 3.1A, Hz 60, Code V, FR -SE48N, Time- Cont., Ser-BK27, S#-314P214. Can I replace it with this one (on ebay # 270682636443)Marathon MOB-17-36 it is the same code V, same rpm, same Hz, and both Cont. the difference is A-2.5 and mine is 3.1, The HP is .14 and mine is 1/10. Will this one work on my burner? Thanks, its getting colder by the hour and snow tonight.

  • @VinylRecordTube It should, aslong as the bolts and shaft size is the same. You might need a coupler kit if there's any inset on the motor.

    Anything is worth a shot.

  • @MagicPatrick1 Thank you very much for quick response. I will measure bolt pattern and possibly remove to inspect shaft size and condition. I just bought this house and never had oil heat before, Ineed to try myself first, been laid off over 2 years from sprink union so have mild mechanical abilities and plenty of tools and time. I hate to get dirty without my hot water for shower made in furnace too. Thanks again and Happy Holidays.

  • @MagicPatrick1 Hey thanks for the video and advise. I removed the old one and took it to a local electric motor repair shop but he showed me where the coil was fried so he ordered me a brand new marathon for $75 and it arrived next day. The shaft length must have been different but the rubber coupler cut like butter with a hack saw. down time = 2 days. Happy New Year!

  • why do i have to bang the blower motor every once in awhille to start my burner?

  • @Blackmansworld Loose wire in the primary?

    Or perhaps the primary itself is bad.

  • @MagicPatrick1 i here a noise like it is starting then i hit it and it starts

  • @Blackmansworld It may be what your hearing is the primary control engaging and the ignition transformer buzzing but no burner motor operation. Answered your other question but you need to call an oil burner specialist to diagnose the problem in person.

  • @Blackmansworld If your talking about hitting the burner motor after you reset the primary control, the problem could be the centrifugal switch inside the motor sticking in the run position. When you hit the motor it helps the spring tension of the centrifugal switch overcome the restriction and returns the switch to the start position thus starting the motor. This will not get better the motor will need to be replaced.

  • Why not use the bleeder screw on the filter can?

  • @GosHawk77 Potential to strip, cross thread or even snap off. On a General A-25 can, or any that uses a single bolt, you can simply snug it up hand tight, place a drip pan and turn the tank valve on. Then just hold the can tight and bleed through the main bolt, and tighten.

  • @GosHawk77 Potential to strip, cross thread or even snap off. On a General A-25 can, or any that uses a single bolt, you can simply snug it up hand tight, place a drip pan and turn the tank valve on. Then just hold the can tight and bleed through the main bolt, and tighten.

  • Where do you get those flange gaskets from? Also, where is the secondary fuel screen located?

  • @4inches4u Most burner gaskets are universal. So any heating specialty supply house should stock 1 that will work. Note your unit model number and burner type just incase. The pump strainer is in the side of the pump. Suntec pumps have 4 1/4" screws and Webster pumps usually have about 6 or 8. One style (webster) is generally round, while the other is square.

  • Left hand side*

  • @4inches4u your gasket should match you flange, their not universal, i mean im shure you can half ass one, but tell the supply house what type of burner you have, the two main types are beckett, and carlin. the second fuel filter is located on the pump, most are 5/16, some are alen keys. if you have the pump with 6 or 8 bolts then you need a new furnace. lol

  • @4inches4u For the burner gaskets you could carry a couple of the most popular ones but for the rest just carry a few sheets of 1/8 inch gasket material and cut to fit. This is great stuff as it can be used to make all kinds of gaskets of the same material. Like breach, clean out door, and inspection door gaskets. Available at R.E. Michale's and Sid Harvey s.

  • cut your nails already

  • @4inches4u lol thanks

    good looking out...

  • Real interesting to fix a oil burner, I just don't got a thing like that

  • They look simple enough, but if they aren't set up right there's a good chance it may soot up the furnace and create a huge mess.

  • Yea, I can imagine that, it is only a question of setting the oil burner right, then it works.

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