Here Andy..this oughta ruin your day....I started getting MR when I was a kid around 13 or so...and I remember your name then, I grew up reading your and your columns over the years....I'm in my 40's now...LOL...your still going strong, I became an engineer for UP and eventually Amtrak, and model 40-50's DRGW narrow gauge now....you inspired me then, you still do...starting another layout and i will use your spike connectors on the new one to hide the connectors...best to you sir..
yea I have that issue and I did my fedders like that and they look great but I used small gage neworking cable solid wire and flatten the ends and worked great and used a 1/32 drill bit and its about 3 inches long long enought to go thrugh every thing but I now sellign my how and thinking about going N because of space love modelrailroading.
Excellent video! Why do you solder to the inside of the rail, would it not be safer to do so on the outside of the rail to avoid any contact with the flanges of the train's wheels?
@sambear0 We solder to the inside of the rail because the joint isn't as visible. The wire is flattened before we solder it, so there's never been any problem with a car derailing over a rail joint. Thanks for your interest.
I realy enjoy your book
easy railroad wiring.
AstroTrainboy1174 1 month ago
Useful video.
I think the director told him to smile for the last bit.
So, no DCC for you, Andy? I just got back into the hobby after a 25 year absence and am unsure about making the change.
MMODoubter 1 month ago
i dont know anything about electricity and its conductivity. Is there an easier way to accomplish this?
vidfreak727 2 months ago
Outstanding Andy. Thanks so much.
ACLTony 6 months ago
Here Andy..this oughta ruin your day....I started getting MR when I was a kid around 13 or so...and I remember your name then, I grew up reading your and your columns over the years....I'm in my 40's now...LOL...your still going strong, I became an engineer for UP and eventually Amtrak, and model 40-50's DRGW narrow gauge now....you inspired me then, you still do...starting another layout and i will use your spike connectors on the new one to hide the connectors...best to you sir..
Amtrakeng 6 months ago
yea I have that issue and I did my fedders like that and they look great but I used small gage neworking cable solid wire and flatten the ends and worked great and used a 1/32 drill bit and its about 3 inches long long enought to go thrugh every thing but I now sellign my how and thinking about going N because of space love modelrailroading.
mccunecp 7 months ago
Will this work on DC layouts?
mitchWhiteLIRC 7 months ago
Excellent video! Why do you solder to the inside of the rail, would it not be safer to do so on the outside of the rail to avoid any contact with the flanges of the train's wheels?
Thanks again for the great information!
sambear0 9 months ago
@sambear0 We solder to the inside of the rail because the joint isn't as visible. The wire is flattened before we solder it, so there's never been any problem with a car derailing over a rail joint. Thanks for your interest.
ModelRailroaderMag 8 months ago
@sambear0 as good as they are you can do either side u see its gone you can teven see it awesome tip now can you do that with N scale
trackspike64 1 week ago
Hey dude, Is your layout DC or DCC?
KnapfordMaster98 1 year ago
@KnapfordMaster98 it's gotta b DCC. He's way too advanced to bother with all this and only go DC. The engine also had sound...I'd bet it was DCC
Kooberz 11 months ago