i got a question how do i fix my input on my amp like it wont connect you got to put ur foot down on the cable for it to connect how can i fix this please get back to me
@mr8wait - sounds like you have bad solder connections on the input jack to the internal PC board of your amp. This is a common problem. You can either pay someone to resolder (or replace) the jack - which would cost between $45 - $80. Or, if you are handy with a soldering iron (do not use a soldering gun), you could resolder it yourself. It isn't difficult, but it does require having the tools.
@TubeDepotTV I use a petroleum PASTE flux on my connectors (before soldering). However, I have been told by several people (online) NOT to use flux on electrical connections because it will "Corrode" the connection over time. However, I have NEVER experienced this. Your thoughts?
@MrMutron - electronics grade flux (whether paste or liquid) is designed to be safe for use on electronics. It is recommended to be cleaned from the connection but isn't necessary. These are often called "no clean" fluxes. Do not use acid flux or flux designed for plumbing work as these will damage electronic components. The general purpose fluxes available at most hardware stores are NOT safe for electronics work.
hi i was wondering if its possible if you guys could show how to coil a guitar cable (coil in the sense to make the cable look like those bullet cables)
@xRAKDOZx - the coiled guitar cords are molded to be coiled. Coiling isn't something that can be done to a straight cable. And thanks for the great comment.
hey man, i have a question, my instrument cables keep doing me like this, and im not sure if theyre just cheap cables or what, but its making me mad, so im thinking of making my own cables, do you know where i can buy all of the supplies online, instrument wire, cable connectors, shrink tubing, etc, anything that i would need for this project, that are all good quality and wont break on me after about a year?
@TubeDepotTV the prices on your site are amazing! I don't have the money to order it right now, but I was just checking it out, and the things I was looking at were
1.) Mogami W2524 (15 feet)
2.) Amphenol 1/4" Straight audio plug
3.) Neutrik 1/4" Right angle audio plug
And in all it was a great price! ($26.75) one more quick question though , do you know where I can buy similar audio plugs, but in 1/8" (3.5mm) I record on my computer a lot and I would like to make a cable for my computer too.
@sixpounder94 - I would recommend making an interface box that plugs between your 1/8" computer input and your 1/4" guitar cable. The 1/8" connectors on a computer are very fragile and any weight (such as a heavy guitar cord) hanging on the connector is very likely to break it. The box should lay on the floor and no pressure should be hanging from the 1/8" connector.
@manyaksi - there are phone connectors available that have screw type connections but I strongly recommend against using these for instrument cables. Aerials are fine for this type of connecting since aerials are not moved and flexed on a regular basis. However, guitar cables are continually flexed and are subjected to more torture than typical screw connections are able to address. The one exception is the George L and Lava Cable connectors which work fine without solder.
I've recently got some van damme Xkr cable and 6.3mm angled jacks to make some patch cables for my pedals ....angled jacks are ultra slim ones ,the ones has 2 screws to close the top bit...
they only have centre tap to solder but nothing for outside shield wire...
I've soldered the shield wire on a random place but it wasn't easy and extra Heath melted a bit of plastic bit inside the jacks and now some has free play :(
Just wondering if I have to solder shield wire or is that ok to
@manyaksi - there is a technique to soldering to a large surface area. First is use a larger soldering iron. You'll need one that is at least 35W - 40W. Second, use a large, thick soldering tip (lots of mass). Third, use a heat sink tool to both hold the shield to the connector as well as block (actually absorb) the excess heat from melting the cable. Fourth, use a little additional electronic soldering flux (liquid or paste) to help make the solder flow better. That should be good.
@jjlwis - a little added flux (in addition to the flux in the solder) is good if the connection is large or when one is reflowing a previous connection. I also use additional flux applied to wires prior to tinning because I'm often loading my soldering tip with solder, which quickly boils off the flux in the solder. Therefore, leaving just solder on the soldering iron tip. The additional flux in the wires makes for better wetting of the solder to the stripped wires.
@jjlwis - it is completely acceptable to use additional flux (either liquid or paste) when making solder connections with flux core solder. The additional flux is recommended when one or more of the surfaces to be soldered are corroded or dirty. I use additional flux when soldering these connectors to help the solder adhere better to the larger surface.
Having a problem I've not come across before. Using the Switchcraft jacks I'm getting some kind of short at the jack, when I put the finished cable in a tester I'm getting a faint light on the other (either way) pin. Could I be shorting or damaging the jack by overheating it with the iron?
@tuconz - make sure that the solder connections are free of any flux residue. 90% or better isopropyl alcohol is great for cleaning. Check to see that the center conductor insulation hasn't melted into the outer shield of the cable (creating a short). This can easily happen if excess heat was used during soldering. Check the tip of the jack to make sure that the insulator separating the tip from the sleeve is not broken or dirty.
Great video. I find the quality control on mass produced guitar cables (all audio cables, really) to be embarrassing. I got sick of buying cables that shorted out so, I've been making my own cables for a few years now. I cut my shield wire length back to the cut of the conductor dielectric so that if things get bent around in there, its less likely to short. I've never had an issue with a cable I've made. That clamp and clip for the shield wire is a slick setup.
@ArmenianSOADfreak - the 1/4" connectors (usually called phone connectors) are available from many suppliers. Neutrik and Amphenol make some very high end connectors. The ones I'm using is the standard Switchcraft model 280.
@funney61303349 - it can be tough trying to tell which is the bad end. I recommend visually inspecting the solder connections for breaks. Look for loose single wire strands touching the opposite connection. Look especially for the center conductor shrinking into the shield and shorting. Make sure that the crimped mechanical connections of the plug (the tip and/or sleeve should not physically move or rotate).
The soldering iron is a temperature controlled soldering station made by Weller. It is model number - WTCPT Professional Soldering Station. We sell them on the TubeDepot website.
@TubeDepotTV so is it the connector itself messing up the whole thing or is it just the wire? because the same thing that happened in the beginning in the video still happens to me
@guitarraplayer12 - it may be the connector or it may be the wire. Check the connectors by visually inspecting them first. Then plug them in and wiggle them while connected. If the noise doesn't appear, go on to the wire. The way to check the wire is to insert the cable into an amp and a guitar and while someone playing the guitar, run the entire length of the cable slowly through your fingers, stopping when the sound starts to mess up. Good luck hunting.
the center conductor of the Amphenol connector is a solid piece of milled brass from end to end. There really isn't anything to bend. The Switchcraft 280 connector has a solder terminal riveted to the tip connection and it is this solder terminal that can be bent on this particular connector.
That terminal that is being bent is actually a solder terminal that is riveted to the center conductor (the tip) of the connector. In this instance, I'm bending this terminal so as to give a straight shot for the center conductor of the cable to solder too. The center conductor of the Amphenol connector is a solder cup that is already in line with the center conductor of the cable and therefore doesn't need bending.
I say, "It's goggle time". It is a good idea to wear eye protection when soldering. The rosin in the solder has a tendency to boil and splatter when heated and can easily get into someone's eyes if not protected.
Correct, it is electronic quality flux which is different than plumbers flux. Plumbers flux, which is very acidic, and should never be used on electronics equipment. Plumbers flux (and any general purpose flux) will eat into the copper traces and into the board and its components. Electronics flux is mildly active and can easily be removed with alcohol or other cleaners.
if someone can write their name, they can solder. It is all a matter of repeating a learned skill and soldering is an easy skill. I imagine you would do great, give it a try.
electrical tape is good for insulating, not very effective for joining two pieces of metal together. That is where the soldering iron and solder comes in. However, many musicians have used electrical tape in a pinch, myself included. Thank goodness for electrical tape. Thanks for the post.
u remembered the goggle time, but u forgot the goggle off time
BlackListHK 7 months ago
@BlackListHK - goggle off was off camera ... when going to lunch.
TubeDepotTV 6 months ago
i got a question how do i fix my input on my amp like it wont connect you got to put ur foot down on the cable for it to connect how can i fix this please get back to me
mr8wait 8 months ago
@mr8wait - sounds like you have bad solder connections on the input jack to the internal PC board of your amp. This is a common problem. You can either pay someone to resolder (or replace) the jack - which would cost between $45 - $80. Or, if you are handy with a soldering iron (do not use a soldering gun), you could resolder it yourself. It isn't difficult, but it does require having the tools.
TubeDepotTV 8 months ago
@TubeDepotTV I use a petroleum PASTE flux on my connectors (before soldering). However, I have been told by several people (online) NOT to use flux on electrical connections because it will "Corrode" the connection over time. However, I have NEVER experienced this. Your thoughts?
MrMutron 6 months ago
@MrMutron - electronics grade flux (whether paste or liquid) is designed to be safe for use on electronics. It is recommended to be cleaned from the connection but isn't necessary. These are often called "no clean" fluxes. Do not use acid flux or flux designed for plumbing work as these will damage electronic components. The general purpose fluxes available at most hardware stores are NOT safe for electronics work.
TubeDepotTV 6 months ago
hi i was wondering if its possible if you guys could show how to coil a guitar cable (coil in the sense to make the cable look like those bullet cables)
and awesome soldering by the way
xRAKDOZx 8 months ago
@xRAKDOZx - the coiled guitar cords are molded to be coiled. Coiling isn't something that can be done to a straight cable. And thanks for the great comment.
TubeDepotTV 8 months ago
hey man, i have a question, my instrument cables keep doing me like this, and im not sure if theyre just cheap cables or what, but its making me mad, so im thinking of making my own cables, do you know where i can buy all of the supplies online, instrument wire, cable connectors, shrink tubing, etc, anything that i would need for this project, that are all good quality and wont break on me after about a year?
sixpounder94 8 months ago
@sixpounder94 - we sell all these parts here at TubeDepot(dot)com. Check out our website.
TubeDepotTV 8 months ago
@TubeDepotTV the prices on your site are amazing! I don't have the money to order it right now, but I was just checking it out, and the things I was looking at were
1.) Mogami W2524 (15 feet)
2.) Amphenol 1/4" Straight audio plug
3.) Neutrik 1/4" Right angle audio plug
And in all it was a great price! ($26.75) one more quick question though , do you know where I can buy similar audio plugs, but in 1/8" (3.5mm) I record on my computer a lot and I would like to make a cable for my computer too.
sixpounder94 8 months ago
@sixpounder94 - I would recommend making an interface box that plugs between your 1/8" computer input and your 1/4" guitar cable. The 1/8" connectors on a computer are very fragile and any weight (such as a heavy guitar cord) hanging on the connector is very likely to break it. The box should lay on the floor and no pressure should be hanging from the 1/8" connector.
TubeDepotTV 8 months ago
Wow old school wire stripping XD
Puertorico2494 8 months ago
@Puertorico2494 - the best kind of stripping ... and yet, no close were removed in the making of this video.
TubeDepotTV 8 months ago
Or is that ok to make connection without solder and make it like the way we do on tv aerial cable connectors?
I believe the part of the jack that holds the wire tight enough to maintain both wire and shield wire...
Thanx for the vids and your advices
manyaksi 9 months ago
@manyaksi - there are phone connectors available that have screw type connections but I strongly recommend against using these for instrument cables. Aerials are fine for this type of connecting since aerials are not moved and flexed on a regular basis. However, guitar cables are continually flexed and are subjected to more torture than typical screw connections are able to address. The one exception is the George L and Lava Cable connectors which work fine without solder.
TubeDepotTV 8 months ago
@tubedepot
I've recently got some van damme Xkr cable and 6.3mm angled jacks to make some patch cables for my pedals ....angled jacks are ultra slim ones ,the ones has 2 screws to close the top bit...
they only have centre tap to solder but nothing for outside shield wire...
I've soldered the shield wire on a random place but it wasn't easy and extra Heath melted a bit of plastic bit inside the jacks and now some has free play :(
Just wondering if I have to solder shield wire or is that ok to
manyaksi 9 months ago
@manyaksi - there is a technique to soldering to a large surface area. First is use a larger soldering iron. You'll need one that is at least 35W - 40W. Second, use a large, thick soldering tip (lots of mass). Third, use a heat sink tool to both hold the shield to the connector as well as block (actually absorb) the excess heat from melting the cable. Fourth, use a little additional electronic soldering flux (liquid or paste) to help make the solder flow better. That should be good.
TubeDepotTV 8 months ago
can you put Flux on the conductor if you are going to use Solder with flux in it i.e (60/40)?
jjlwis 9 months ago
@jjlwis - a little added flux (in addition to the flux in the solder) is good if the connection is large or when one is reflowing a previous connection. I also use additional flux applied to wires prior to tinning because I'm often loading my soldering tip with solder, which quickly boils off the flux in the solder. Therefore, leaving just solder on the soldering iron tip. The additional flux in the wires makes for better wetting of the solder to the stripped wires.
TubeDepotTV 9 months ago
@jjlwis - it is completely acceptable to use additional flux (either liquid or paste) when making solder connections with flux core solder. The additional flux is recommended when one or more of the surfaces to be soldered are corroded or dirty. I use additional flux when soldering these connectors to help the solder adhere better to the larger surface.
TubeDepotTV 8 months ago
Having a problem I've not come across before. Using the Switchcraft jacks I'm getting some kind of short at the jack, when I put the finished cable in a tester I'm getting a faint light on the other (either way) pin. Could I be shorting or damaging the jack by overheating it with the iron?
tuconz 1 year ago
@tuconz - make sure that the solder connections are free of any flux residue. 90% or better isopropyl alcohol is great for cleaning. Check to see that the center conductor insulation hasn't melted into the outer shield of the cable (creating a short). This can easily happen if excess heat was used during soldering. Check the tip of the jack to make sure that the insulator separating the tip from the sleeve is not broken or dirty.
TubeDepotTV 1 year ago
Great video. I find the quality control on mass produced guitar cables (all audio cables, really) to be embarrassing. I got sick of buying cables that shorted out so, I've been making my own cables for a few years now. I cut my shield wire length back to the cut of the conductor dielectric so that if things get bent around in there, its less likely to short. I've never had an issue with a cable I've made. That clamp and clip for the shield wire is a slick setup.
andrewt248 1 year ago
Where can I get the connector? What are they usually called?
ArmenianSOADfreak 1 year ago
@ArmenianSOADfreak - the 1/4" connectors (usually called phone connectors) are available from many suppliers. Neutrik and Amphenol make some very high end connectors. The ones I'm using is the standard Switchcraft model 280.
TubeDepotTV 1 year ago
how do u noe which side is broken?
funney61303349 1 year ago
@funney61303349 - it can be tough trying to tell which is the bad end. I recommend visually inspecting the solder connections for breaks. Look for loose single wire strands touching the opposite connection. Look especially for the center conductor shrinking into the shield and shorting. Make sure that the crimped mechanical connections of the plug (the tip and/or sleeve should not physically move or rotate).
TubeDepotTV 1 year ago
excellent!
many thanx
glitterballband 1 year ago
@glitterballband - glad we could help. Hope you were able to get back to playing music quickly.
TubeDepotTV 1 year ago
what kind of soldering iron is that?
roaringwaterbay 2 years ago
The soldering iron is a temperature controlled soldering station made by Weller. It is model number - WTCPT Professional Soldering Station. We sell them on the TubeDepot website.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
@TubeDepotTV so is it the connector itself messing up the whole thing or is it just the wire? because the same thing that happened in the beginning in the video still happens to me
guitarraplayer12 1 year ago
@guitarraplayer12 - it may be the connector or it may be the wire. Check the connectors by visually inspecting them first. Then plug them in and wiggle them while connected. If the noise doesn't appear, go on to the wire. The way to check the wire is to insert the cable into an amp and a guitar and while someone playing the guitar, run the entire length of the cable slowly through your fingers, stopping when the sound starts to mess up. Good luck hunting.
TubeDepotTV 1 year ago
what kind of solder is that?
roaringwaterbay 2 years ago
The solder is Kester #44. It is a 60 / 40 mix (60% lead, 40% tin) with a rosin core. It is really great solder.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
AWESOMEE GREAT VIDEOOOO thanks manyyy HD and everything
TommyLee1T 2 years ago
Glad you liked it. Hopefully you were able to use the information.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
Comment removed
carlocanlas 2 years ago
just want to ask..
can I do the bending of the center piece of the connector to an Amphenol connetcor? the smaller one. not the ones you used on the other video.
thanks. : )
carlocanlas 2 years ago
the center conductor of the Amphenol connector is a solid piece of milled brass from end to end. There really isn't anything to bend. The Switchcraft 280 connector has a solder terminal riveted to the tip connection and it is this solder terminal that can be bent on this particular connector.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
Comment removed
carlocanlas 2 years ago
oops. sorry. I meant the solder terminal. like what you did at 4:00 ....
carlocanlas 2 years ago
That terminal that is being bent is actually a solder terminal that is riveted to the center conductor (the tip) of the connector. In this instance, I'm bending this terminal so as to give a straight shot for the center conductor of the cable to solder too. The center conductor of the Amphenol connector is a solder cup that is already in line with the center conductor of the cable and therefore doesn't need bending.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
what you use on 2:40?
Heatlink1 2 years ago
I say, "It's goggle time". It is a good idea to wear eye protection when soldering. The rosin in the solder has a tendency to boil and splatter when heated and can easily get into someone's eyes if not protected.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
flux
aldin1009 2 years ago
Correct, it is electronic quality flux which is different than plumbers flux. Plumbers flux, which is very acidic, and should never be used on electronics equipment. Plumbers flux (and any general purpose flux) will eat into the copper traces and into the board and its components. Electronics flux is mildly active and can easily be removed with alcohol or other cleaners.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
i'm as bewilderd as the 13 year old. i'll probly fuck it up way werse if i sloder. hahaha
rocker66666666 2 years ago
if someone can write their name, they can solder. It is all a matter of repeating a learned skill and soldering is an easy skill. I imagine you would do great, give it a try.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
i find that electrical tape is a temporary and cheap fix if you dont have a solder and im only 13
SECTION28BAND 2 years ago
electrical tape is good for insulating, not very effective for joining two pieces of metal together. That is where the soldering iron and solder comes in. However, many musicians have used electrical tape in a pinch, myself included. Thank goodness for electrical tape. Thanks for the post.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
Please keep up these great videos! You have a great style for instructional videos, really enjoy them!
ntjbjhq 2 years ago
glad you have enjoyed them. There is another one posted recently. Let me know what you think.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago
Thanks a lot again for your help!
Eloy. Spain
elbenaso 2 years ago
Another awesome video! Thanks for posting these... now I don't have tho throw away those noisy cables that I thought weren't fixable!
dcabinet 2 years ago
I'm glad you liked the video and hopefully it will help save many a noisy cable from the trash.
TubeDepotTV 2 years ago