I've never tried, but the principle is the same. I am sure the base material must be steel, and not aluminum, copper, or other. You WILL have "corn flakes" or oxidized material on the other side of the surface, in this case inside the pipe.
@ke6gwf Sorry for the VERY late reply! I learned about flammables in the area from an accident I was involved in many years ago. My brother was able to extinguish the fire while I worked at removing the lacquer thinner from under the bench I was working at (the boss set it there!).
@ke6gwf Sorry for the VERY late reply! I learned about flammables in the area from an accident I was involved in many years ago. My brother was able to extinguish the fire while I worked at removing the lacquer thinner from under the bench I was working at (the boss set it there!).
@sdime59 Sorry for the VERY late reply!! The steel is still wavy, but the idea is to shrink it to reduce the waves. In my case, the waves were 6" to 10" wide and I was able to get them down to 2" to 3" wide. Some dolly work was then required, and I finished with some light Bondo.
@vf4000 , not really, he kept his quench cloth in ice water, and used a slightly less aggressive flame but heated the steel to same colour, just between orange and red (more heat on the highs) then quench with ice cold cloth, you dont see ppl using these old school tricks much these days, its good to see its not a dead art!
I'm thinking about welding a steel or aluminum half hard top for my Jeep Wrangler TJ... Could you recommend a metal and its gauge? Should I weld a frame first or can I just weld the sheets of metal together?
I've never welded before, however, I have soldered some. My brother has a welder and I'm hoping to use it. :)
@killerboogy69 Just a regular, Victor #2 cutting tip- as has been noted here, a welding or brazing tip may be more appropriate. I'm poor, the cutting tip is all I have for now.
@MrMarlboroman17 That's an effect of surface contaminants (such as a very thin film of oil); it's not something I have spent any time on so I can't tell you how to do it on purpose. Sorry!
@crv423 I used a couple of body-working hammers and a body dolly. Then, because I get lazy doing body work (because I REALLLLY hate doing body work) I finish the surface with a little body filler.
@GarrettJDB I guess so- I never tried because I wouldn't want the mess inside my garage. If you're outside and the area drains away, it might be better, and it would be safer since you wouldn't have a chance of scalding your hand.
Well, I did this at home, so an OSHA inspector could kiss my butt. If you wear gloves handling the wet towels, they will get wet, get hot, and offer no protection while you frantically try to take them off.
I actually do my best with safety. I have an ABC extinguisher next to me, and I installed fire sprinklers in the area.
I had a car hood flip open on me while test a new ride. It stretched the cowl out. I beat it back - and then used this methods to shrink the metal.... Voila !!
I tried this recently. It did shrink the metal but it also warped it a lot. It took hours with slappers and dollies to get it fairly straight again. I did expect it but shrinking steel is much harder than stretching it.
Possibly- there is a number of brackets spot-welded to the inside; I have also experienced a great deal of warpage in replacing sections like this. Mostly, I was seeing if what I had read on the subject was, in fact, possible to do.
After watching this video, I have been doing this, when needed for my 1934 street rod project. Good technique, however I do not suggest getting the metal red hot. Literally, one second or less of contact with the oxygen acetylene flame is all the heating you need to shrink the metal. Thanks for the video.
2 days, six hours, 21 minutes, 2 acetylene and 3 oxygen bottles, and 17 video discs later- after doing the ENTIRE panel: "Well, damn it, I think we finally... "PING!"
No problem man, I actually started doin' this with in my Collision class here at WyoTech in PA about a week ago, and my instructors went into detail about it. Not much different from what you explained in the video.
Klickmania, thanks for the support. I had intended to reply but very busy. Anyone looking at this, if you want to reduce the hardening, reheat not quite as hot and allow to cool slowly; this should at least partially anneal (soften) the steel.
No, it actually does shrink the sheet metal. He's not warping it. The heat will cause the panel to expand, like he explained, and when it cools, whether that's by quenching it with water, compressed air, or what have you, or by just cooling naturally, it will contract and shrink the panel. But anytime you from/deform steel it will become work hardened and thus, more brittle.
sorry to say but your not really shrinking the steel in this vid, your only warping that panel and making it ridged so it doesnt pop in and out. i understand what your trying to do but you should be using a "rose bud" tip atleast so your not pushing the hot metal in.
heybofe: Thanks for the comment- didn't know I could skip the quenching (only done this a few times). I have a welding tip somewhere but couldn't find it........
I used to do it this way for a long time, then Ron Covel told me that the quenching is'nt needed-it just speeds up the process, and that the quenching hardens the surface and makes it more difficult to file/metalfinish-not good. He's right! I've never seen anyone use a cutting torch to shrink.(!) I use the smallest welding tip possible-no moving it in circles- and then back it up with a surfaceing spoon (1/8" thick) when hammering rather than a dolly. I started in 1971.
Nope you can't. Unlike steel, aluminium, once its stretched is nigh on impossible to shrink and with a torch like this, you'd blow big holes unless the ally was very thick.
Well, wah! It just keeps you guys employed (by the way, I< was the one doing the body work, so no bodymen were harmed in the making of this video); and welding in a new piece still costs filler at the weld. Since the middle of the area is longer than the surrounding edges, it CAN'T be beat flat. That's why we gotta SHRINK it.
Now us paint guys are going to have to put a skim of filler over that when it comes to paint time!!Personally I would have panel beat that back flat,or if really bad cut it out and weld in a slightly thicker flat piece and then cround the join flat.
I never knew about this but thanks for the vid know I can fix my vw dashboard
vwbeetle1954 3 months ago
I've never tried, but the principle is the same. I am sure the base material must be steel, and not aluminum, copper, or other. You WILL have "corn flakes" or oxidized material on the other side of the surface, in this case inside the pipe.
vf4000 5 months ago
can this method also be used to shrink metal tubing, or a variation of this?
savage8199 5 months ago
Did you learn the tip about checking for flammable materials in the other side from personal experience?
(I won't admit to learning it that way! ;)
Good video! (including the narration)
Now to go try this on 3/16" sheet metal with an inch per foot bubble...
ke6gwf 6 months ago
@ke6gwf Sorry for the VERY late reply! I learned about flammables in the area from an accident I was involved in many years ago. My brother was able to extinguish the fire while I worked at removing the lacquer thinner from under the bench I was working at (the boss set it there!).
vf4000 5 months ago
@ke6gwf Sorry for the VERY late reply! I learned about flammables in the area from an accident I was involved in many years ago. My brother was able to extinguish the fire while I worked at removing the lacquer thinner from under the bench I was working at (the boss set it there!).
vf4000 5 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Thanks for the lesson, I'll try it myself soon.
ElectricBobber 9 months ago
Nice video.does the sheet metal stay straight or do you still have to hammer/dolly it?
Or the whole point of shrinking is to make it straight.
The reason I ask is because my old truck bed is warped real bad from some welding.
its smooth(no dents) but you can see the waves of hell on it.
thanks
Seth
sdime59 10 months ago
@sdime59 Sorry for the VERY late reply!! The steel is still wavy, but the idea is to shrink it to reduce the waves. In my case, the waves were 6" to 10" wide and I was able to get them down to 2" to 3" wide. Some dolly work was then required, and I finished with some light Bondo.
vf4000 5 months ago
great vid man, my dad showed me this technique when we sectioned the body of vdub bus!
scoob316 1 year ago
@scoob316 Thanks!! Did he do anything differently, especially anything better?
vf4000 1 year ago
@vf4000 , not really, he kept his quench cloth in ice water, and used a slightly less aggressive flame but heated the steel to same colour, just between orange and red (more heat on the highs) then quench with ice cold cloth, you dont see ppl using these old school tricks much these days, its good to see its not a dead art!
scoob316 1 year ago
COOL VIDEO MEN
scavenom2008 1 year ago
@scavenom2008 THANKS!
vf4000 1 year ago
Would this method work to shrink sheet metal (steel) that is warped from overheating during welding?
fyrdawg589 1 year ago
@fyrdawg589 Yes, you will have to focus on the areas next to the welds.
vf4000 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I'm thinking about welding a steel or aluminum half hard top for my Jeep Wrangler TJ... Could you recommend a metal and its gauge? Should I weld a frame first or can I just weld the sheets of metal together?
I've never welded before, however, I have soldered some. My brother has a welder and I'm hoping to use it. :)
laurajdahl 1 year ago
What tip are you using with the torch?
killerboogy69 1 year ago
@killerboogy69 Just a regular, Victor #2 cutting tip- as has been noted here, a welding or brazing tip may be more appropriate. I'm poor, the cutting tip is all I have for now.
vf4000 1 year ago
Can you burn metal hot enough that it makes like a rainbow effect?
I'm doing it to my old zippo insert just for the hell of it, and it's like a rainbow.
What can I do to make it more effective?
MrMarlboroman17 1 year ago
@MrMarlboroman17 That's an effect of surface contaminants (such as a very thin film of oil); it's not something I have spent any time on so I can't tell you how to do it on purpose. Sorry!
vf4000 1 year ago
How do you go about making the newly repaired area look flat and uniform again?
crv423 1 year ago
@crv423 I used a couple of body-working hammers and a body dolly. Then, because I get lazy doing body work (because I REALLLLY hate doing body work) I finish the surface with a little body filler.
vf4000 1 year ago
can you spray it with a hose instead of using a rag
GarrettJDB 1 year ago
@GarrettJDB I guess so- I never tried because I wouldn't want the mess inside my garage. If you're outside and the area drains away, it might be better, and it would be safer since you wouldn't have a chance of scalding your hand.
vf4000 1 year ago
Talk about bone head.. the guy isn't even wearing gloves. An OSHA inspector would fine him heavily.
Terryblount 2 years ago
Well, I did this at home, so an OSHA inspector could kiss my butt. If you wear gloves handling the wet towels, they will get wet, get hot, and offer no protection while you frantically try to take them off.
I actually do my best with safety. I have an ABC extinguisher next to me, and I installed fire sprinklers in the area.
Thanks for watching!
vf4000 2 years ago
This was terrific !
I had a car hood flip open on me while test a new ride. It stretched the cowl out. I beat it back - and then used this methods to shrink the metal.... Voila !!
Many thanks for your contribution !!
-D
a204189 2 years ago
All right! Glad it worked for you- wasn't sure it worked at all when I first tried it.
vf4000 2 years ago
I tried this recently. It did shrink the metal but it also warped it a lot. It took hours with slappers and dollies to get it fairly straight again. I did expect it but shrinking steel is much harder than stretching it.
AntillRS 2 years ago
Yeah, it's not necessarily the ideal method for all needs. Sorry you had trouble with it!
vf4000 2 years ago
nooo man i wasnt getting on you for it. I'm not a keyboard warrior who sits at home and picks faults with everything. Thanks for posting the vid.
AntillRS 2 years ago
You got it, bro. I've been trying to get time for a couple of new ones, but time escapes me.... ; (
vf4000 2 years ago
wow this is great!!!! 5 stars for sure
Titliest07 2 years ago
that made no difference or very little i could see him trying not to push it that hard at the end
GVILLEtSHIRTFACTORY 2 years ago
Well, I'm not in the habit of lying. I guarantee that at the end, the steel sheet was tighter.
I would invite you to try it, but I would expect that since you're predisposed to this method failing, you wouldn't be successful.
Thanks for watching, though.
vf4000 2 years ago
This method actually works really well. It shrinks very little at a time.
KF7AYS 2 years ago
Thanks! I tried this principle on bending a pipe and it worked.
vf4000 2 years ago
that is cool
jonn093 2 years ago
Thanks For The Tip
cassoa 2 years ago
you should have let it burn through.
masterdubator 2 years ago
I think you would be alot better off just cutting out that spot and replacing it with a new pannel
MetaleyeCandy 2 years ago
Possibly- there is a number of brackets spot-welded to the inside; I have also experienced a great deal of warpage in replacing sections like this. Mostly, I was seeing if what I had read on the subject was, in fact, possible to do.
vf4000 2 years ago
yeah often enough no matter how you weld it,seems to warp ...
ispyder9 2 years ago
Thanks for the video!
philcaron 3 years ago
After watching this video, I have been doing this, when needed for my 1934 street rod project. Good technique, however I do not suggest getting the metal red hot. Literally, one second or less of contact with the oxygen acetylene flame is all the heating you need to shrink the metal. Thanks for the video.
strum456 3 years ago
Great! I didn't try less heat; thanks for posting your results!
vf4000 3 years ago
thats is a great tip, thanks for upload the video,
ezequielevil 3 years ago
You got it, hope you can use it!
vf4000 3 years ago
thanks for the tip
46851118 3 years ago
Thanks for watching. Let me know if it works out for ya.
vf4000 3 years ago
congrats ken. want another dodge project. Would love to see the armored vf
2ndarmor 3 years ago
Yeah, that would be too cool!
vf4000 3 years ago
2 days, six hours, 21 minutes, 2 acetylene and 3 oxygen bottles, and 17 video discs later- after doing the ENTIRE panel: "Well, damn it, I think we finally... "PING!"
ShotsloppyD 3 years ago
Ha ha ha ha ha!!
I LOVE working on old crap... ;)
vf4000 3 years ago
No problem man, I actually started doin' this with in my Collision class here at WyoTech in PA about a week ago, and my instructors went into detail about it. Not much different from what you explained in the video.
Klickmania 3 years ago
Klickmania, thanks for the support. I had intended to reply but very busy. Anyone looking at this, if you want to reduce the hardening, reheat not quite as hot and allow to cool slowly; this should at least partially anneal (soften) the steel.
vf4000 3 years ago
No, it actually does shrink the sheet metal. He's not warping it. The heat will cause the panel to expand, like he explained, and when it cools, whether that's by quenching it with water, compressed air, or what have you, or by just cooling naturally, it will contract and shrink the panel. But anytime you from/deform steel it will become work hardened and thus, more brittle.
Klickmania 3 years ago
sorry to say but your not really shrinking the steel in this vid, your only warping that panel and making it ridged so it doesnt pop in and out. i understand what your trying to do but you should be using a "rose bud" tip atleast so your not pushing the hot metal in.
phrygian360 3 years ago
that is some firey joy!
tadphoto 3 years ago
Yeh, me like fire!! Huh huh huh!! ;)
vf4000 3 years ago
Thanks for the kudos, guys!
heybofe: Thanks for the comment- didn't know I could skip the quenching (only done this a few times). I have a welding tip somewhere but couldn't find it........
vf4000 3 years ago
I used to do it this way for a long time, then Ron Covel told me that the quenching is'nt needed-it just speeds up the process, and that the quenching hardens the surface and makes it more difficult to file/metalfinish-not good. He's right! I've never seen anyone use a cutting torch to shrink.(!) I use the smallest welding tip possible-no moving it in circles- and then back it up with a surfaceing spoon (1/8" thick) when hammering rather than a dolly. I started in 1971.
heybofe 3 years ago
awesome video dude
wwwNooBcom 4 years ago
does it apply to aluminum also??
kurthessan 4 years ago
Nope you can't. Unlike steel, aluminium, once its stretched is nigh on impossible to shrink and with a torch like this, you'd blow big holes unless the ally was very thick.
tommymech 4 years ago
you done a great job man...
lembukedah 4 years ago
Thanks buddy! It was a hell of a lot more work than I had planned...
vf4000 3 years ago
Well, wah! It just keeps you guys employed (by the way, I< was the one doing the body work, so no bodymen were harmed in the making of this video); and welding in a new piece still costs filler at the weld. Since the middle of the area is longer than the surrounding edges, it CAN'T be beat flat. That's why we gotta SHRINK it.
vf4000 4 years ago
Now us paint guys are going to have to put a skim of filler over that when it comes to paint time!!Personally I would have panel beat that back flat,or if really bad cut it out and weld in a slightly thicker flat piece and then cround the join flat.
silver760 4 years ago
if you do this correctly, you wont need filler and usuay that job goes to body guys.
drumperson1 4 years ago
The most effective way to do this is to make a checker board like pattern of Quarter sized dots and cool them with compressed air one at a time..
jbize 4 years ago
Thanks for that. Me being an apprentice sheet metal worker - that handy tip will be of some use through out my years of working.
sumgui 4 years ago
Cool. It really works, but the bigger the bow, the longer it takes.
vf4000 4 years ago
Thanks. Sorry I wasn't really clear- never did a video before.
vf4000 4 years ago
Cool!
djExprice 4 years ago
Thanks! I'll probably just cut out and remove more steel next time. It'll be smoother and less work.
vf4000 4 years ago