@trwo45troix etc. On four-cylinder bikes it's not essential to find top dead center. Single cylinders, yes. The Garage endeavors guys wanted to do it this way in case there were any points during a cycle where the cam chain had more slack. Most guys don't find TDC on four cylinders. "Fine tuning" is screwing in the tensioner bolt while rotating the crank until you feel the adjuster engage the chain tensioner - then back out the bolt 1/4 turn. But again, rotating the crank is not essential.
@two45triox I think is because this is exactly where the chain is totally loose. The valves are closed and there is no presure from the valve springs... that are my thoughts :P
id like a little more info on the "fine tuning" process but i get the idea.
You guys that nay say manual tensioners dont know crap. The reason why they have auto-tensioners is to have one less thing to take care of as a customer/buyer (same as a car). BUT if youre mechanically inclined and willing to do a little bit of dirty work then a manual tensioner is no biggy anyways.
Macfahad - The song in the background is "Atlas" by the band Battles. The difference between manual and OEM tensioners is that the oem spring loaded (and hydraulic) mechanism may back away from the chain momentarily under sudden revs allowing the cam chain to slack and - well, you can take it from there. Manual adjusters are for racers and guys with engine mods. Or, in this case, guys with R1s that have that knocking noise at startup.
Twos questions... One - Name of the song in the background please, and
2 - .. Whats the difference between the oem spring loaded tension (supposing thats what r1 come with) and the ape manual tensioner... not in the way it functions, but what are the advantages of getting a manual tensioner? longevity?
orrrrrrrrrrr...... you can just buy the fucking new part from Yamaha - Part number: 14B-12210-01-00 that solves the problem ... why the fuck would I install a MANUAL fucking tensioner on a 13000 Euro bike???
@Chavagnatze - the STOCK ones yes - but they finally released TWO updates to the original crap part and the latest release works fine - I installed it on my 09 Yamaha R1, and 10 000km later - still not problems. Again .. why put a MANUAL system on an expensive bike - if a constant tension was fine - Dont you think Yamaha would have opted for a manual system also?? Clearly the tension needs to change while riding the bike - are you going to lean over and adjust it while riding?? Buy the new part!
I put this on. It works money ! Noise is gone! Sounds sweet. Harder then it looks putting on. Totally make sure u find tdc first before putting the new chain tensioner first. If u remove the oem tensioner 1st then find tdc you'll skip the timing chain over the cams. Follow directions! Lol
i would not recommend manual timing chain tensioner on any bike. for the fact it is not mechanically safe. you basically and blindedly not knowing that your chain and sprocket are wearing out due to unstable stretch and loose, were as an auto you have the piece of mine of not having this scenerio. that is just a money making scheme period.
Got it! mine is making that noise already at 1700 miles. Mostly on cold starts just for a second or two. But it sounds like an engine knock or valve. I was worried. Your right the noise is awful. I just ordered it. Hope all is fine after!
IF NOT CHANGED WHAT CAN HAPPEN
eljjo2490 1 month ago
I want this video on my L3100 phone.
beverlybradley210 1 month ago
@trwo45troix etc. On four-cylinder bikes it's not essential to find top dead center. Single cylinders, yes. The Garage endeavors guys wanted to do it this way in case there were any points during a cycle where the cam chain had more slack. Most guys don't find TDC on four cylinders. "Fine tuning" is screwing in the tensioner bolt while rotating the crank until you feel the adjuster engage the chain tensioner - then back out the bolt 1/4 turn. But again, rotating the crank is not essential.
bbaloghe 1 month ago
Whats the purpose of finding TDC ?
two45triox 1 month ago
@two45triox I think is because this is exactly where the chain is totally loose. The valves are closed and there is no presure from the valve springs... that are my thoughts :P
lrojasma 1 week ago
id like a little more info on the "fine tuning" process but i get the idea.
You guys that nay say manual tensioners dont know crap. The reason why they have auto-tensioners is to have one less thing to take care of as a customer/buyer (same as a car). BUT if youre mechanically inclined and willing to do a little bit of dirty work then a manual tensioner is no biggy anyways.
Rpwolfsh 5 months ago
what happens if i dont remove the timing cover?
Adolfo8289 6 months ago in playlist MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE
Macfahad - The song in the background is "Atlas" by the band Battles. The difference between manual and OEM tensioners is that the oem spring loaded (and hydraulic) mechanism may back away from the chain momentarily under sudden revs allowing the cam chain to slack and - well, you can take it from there. Manual adjusters are for racers and guys with engine mods. Or, in this case, guys with R1s that have that knocking noise at startup.
bbaloghe 8 months ago
Who ever edited this video is a proooo!! love it.
Twos questions... One - Name of the song in the background please, and
2 - .. Whats the difference between the oem spring loaded tension (supposing thats what r1 come with) and the ape manual tensioner... not in the way it functions, but what are the advantages of getting a manual tensioner? longevity?
macfahad 10 months ago
Eh... Manual on an r1... Not to smart.
systemutvecklaren 11 months ago
orrrrrrrrrrr...... you can just buy the fucking new part from Yamaha - Part number: 14B-12210-01-00 that solves the problem ... why the fuck would I install a MANUAL fucking tensioner on a 13000 Euro bike???
ultraxgenocide 1 year ago
@ultraxgenocide
Uh because the stock hydraulic ccts are absolute crap.
Chavagnatze 1 year ago
@Chavagnatze - the STOCK ones yes - but they finally released TWO updates to the original crap part and the latest release works fine - I installed it on my 09 Yamaha R1, and 10 000km later - still not problems. Again .. why put a MANUAL system on an expensive bike - if a constant tension was fine - Dont you think Yamaha would have opted for a manual system also?? Clearly the tension needs to change while riding the bike - are you going to lean over and adjust it while riding?? Buy the new part!
ultraxgenocide 1 year ago 2
Is the process the same for the 2008 R1?
I just ordered a APE manual tensioner due to a little clacking sound at start up...
Bike has about 4000 miles on it. Thanks!!
aydinvideo 1 year ago
I put this on. It works money ! Noise is gone! Sounds sweet. Harder then it looks putting on. Totally make sure u find tdc first before putting the new chain tensioner first. If u remove the oem tensioner 1st then find tdc you'll skip the timing chain over the cams. Follow directions! Lol
Oloughlin2777 1 year ago
Coolllll very helpfull your video...
Thank you guys.
tonycarvalho01 1 year ago
I call yamaha and it is a recall on the cam tention, just waiting on parts now it's under warrenty
ssin401 1 year ago
i would not recommend manual timing chain tensioner on any bike. for the fact it is not mechanically safe. you basically and blindedly not knowing that your chain and sprocket are wearing out due to unstable stretch and loose, were as an auto you have the piece of mine of not having this scenerio. that is just a money making scheme period.
solidr1 1 year ago
Got it! mine is making that noise already at 1700 miles. Mostly on cold starts just for a second or two. But it sounds like an engine knock or valve. I was worried. Your right the noise is awful. I just ordered it. Hope all is fine after!
Oloughlin2777 1 year ago
@Oloughlin2777-mines is doin the same thing i think they said there's a recall on it.
kokanewarrior 1 year ago
whats this do?...........
Oloughlin2777 1 year ago