@Moumoulynx I made my guide bearings from angle iron, threaded rod (Bolts) and 3/4 inch bearings from the store locally. One on top, one on bottom and one on the dull side of the blade.
Thank you for your réponce I have another question for you I wonder if you would not address an Internet store to buy the pulley and roller blade carriage ?
@Moumoulynx I bought my pullies locally and the other things I made. Which part is the roller blade carriage? Do you mean the guide bearings? My other videos explain a lot of this stuff.
@Moumoulynx I don't do that but the measurements are on one of my videos with large enough font for you to read them. If It is missing any measurements tell me and I can fill-in the blanks for you.
how many teeth/inch on your blade? Also, Why did you make it so wide? do you mill very large logs with it? if so, please show a video milling a large log. It seems that it would be more efficient use of space if it wasn't so large. Very nice job. Thanks, Rob
@robangelakids I believe there is a tooth every 3/4" As far as a video of a big log I have already done that check out my channel for the video of a walnut tree. The width of the machine is for stability and so I can do other things with it later, design changes and attachments which other people haven't left room for. What you see here is the simplest version possible without any bells or whistles,that makes it easier for people to copy the design, you will notice the guard is off too.
This is EXACTY what I have been looking for. THANK YOU!! Small enough to be in my side yard and big enough to handle the mesquite I want to mill. When I get started building it, I am sure I will have more questions. Is this the best way to contact you?r
The cord would have to be flexible because it changes heights, also friction of rubbing 220v cord on metal could lead to a shock. I do use wedges, just not here although I really don't need it. As far as the guards go; it's just way easier for people in T.V.land to see all the working parts if I leave them off. If you had watched the other videos you probably would have heard all of this before hand. It's fine though I appreciate the suggestions and the comments.
@GoneBattyBats There is no guard because I am teaching others how to build these machines. If they can't see the parts then they can't build them. I understand your concern though and I warn people to add guards in my other videos and my website, which you can see off of my channel. Thanks for the comment and the view friend. : )
@jtcweb1 The shafts were machined just for my machine for 170$, electric motor 50$ pillow bearings 100$, welding supplies 20$, wheels were 90$(i think) , ac fuse was 20$?,the dryer plugin 15$ the copper wire was 190$, the steel was 2 or 300$, the bolts for the dogs were 20ish$, spray paint 12$ ect. ect. I'm not sure exactly about the steel, but I did use as much scrap as I could. It's really not too bad if you price a brand name sawmill. This is an estimate mind you and steel has gone up since.
@jtcweb1 I loose the space above either way so I decided to make it tall enough that I could crank it up to eye level to work on it. It also helps when using a stage for resawing lumber. You also change the angle of the diagonal supports which might interfere with the distance of the main head with these supports. I guess if you are hurting for room you could do this, but I like the versatility.
yes it is his
Joel
Moumoulynx 2 weeks ago
@Moumoulynx I made my guide bearings from angle iron, threaded rod (Bolts) and 3/4 inch bearings from the store locally. One on top, one on bottom and one on the dull side of the blade.
BlueMacGyver 2 weeks ago
Thank you for your réponce I have another question for you I wonder if you would not address an Internet store to buy the pulley and roller blade carriage ?
Joel
Moumoulynx 2 weeks ago
@Moumoulynx I bought my pullies locally and the other things I made. Which part is the roller blade carriage? Do you mean the guide bearings? My other videos explain a lot of this stuff.
BlueMacGyver 2 weeks ago
I find it very interesting `s, it would it be possible to send me the pland 3D video by my email please ?
Joel
j.mclynx@live.ca
Moumoulynx 2 weeks ago
@Moumoulynx I don't do that but the measurements are on one of my videos with large enough font for you to read them. If It is missing any measurements tell me and I can fill-in the blanks for you.
BlueMacGyver 2 weeks ago
how many teeth/inch on your blade? Also, Why did you make it so wide? do you mill very large logs with it? if so, please show a video milling a large log. It seems that it would be more efficient use of space if it wasn't so large. Very nice job. Thanks, Rob
robangelakids 1 month ago
@robangelakids I believe there is a tooth every 3/4" As far as a video of a big log I have already done that check out my channel for the video of a walnut tree. The width of the machine is for stability and so I can do other things with it later, design changes and attachments which other people haven't left room for. What you see here is the simplest version possible without any bells or whistles,that makes it easier for people to copy the design, you will notice the guard is off too.
BlueMacGyver 1 month ago
Thanks for a good video! Keep up the good inventions!! =)
henryzimmer 2 months ago
This is EXACTY what I have been looking for. THANK YOU!! Small enough to be in my side yard and big enough to handle the mesquite I want to mill. When I get started building it, I am sure I will have more questions. Is this the best way to contact you?r
farrwood007 2 months ago
The cord would have to be flexible because it changes heights, also friction of rubbing 220v cord on metal could lead to a shock. I do use wedges, just not here although I really don't need it. As far as the guards go; it's just way easier for people in T.V.land to see all the working parts if I leave them off. If you had watched the other videos you probably would have heard all of this before hand. It's fine though I appreciate the suggestions and the comments.
BlueMacGyver 2 months ago
@BlueMacGyver I have joined UTUBE but am totally lost on how to use it.How can I can contact you with a few comments and questions.;
farrwood007 2 months ago
I did not watch your other videos but I do have a couple of suggestions...
1. Move the electrical cord to be attached to the vertical support arm. This will keep it out of the way and reduce the risk of severing it.
2. Use wedges in the far end during the cut to prevent the binding you were encountering towards the end of the cut.
3. And I agree with GoneBattyBats that a blade guard would be a good idea.
Very nice work on it!
paxamime 2 months ago
Good to see there are still inventors... Please put a thick guard over the blade. What will you do when the blade breaks and comes right at you?
GoneBattyBats 3 months ago
@GoneBattyBats There is no guard because I am teaching others how to build these machines. If they can't see the parts then they can't build them. I understand your concern though and I warn people to add guards in my other videos and my website, which you can see off of my channel. Thanks for the comment and the view friend. : )
BlueMacGyver 3 months ago
great video, thanks.
12152011 3 months ago
@12152011 Thank you sir!
BlueMacGyver 3 months ago
You list the price at about $1100. Was there a particularly expensive item or does steel just cost that much?
jtcweb1 4 months ago
@jtcweb1 The shafts were machined just for my machine for 170$, electric motor 50$ pillow bearings 100$, welding supplies 20$, wheels were 90$(i think) , ac fuse was 20$?,the dryer plugin 15$ the copper wire was 190$, the steel was 2 or 300$, the bolts for the dogs were 20ish$, spray paint 12$ ect. ect. I'm not sure exactly about the steel, but I did use as much scrap as I could. It's really not too bad if you price a brand name sawmill. This is an estimate mind you and steel has gone up since.
BlueMacGyver 4 months ago
Why do you have the frame so high? It looks over 6 feet tall. I would think you could cut that down to at least 4 feet.
jtcweb1 4 months ago
@jtcweb1 I loose the space above either way so I decided to make it tall enough that I could crank it up to eye level to work on it. It also helps when using a stage for resawing lumber. You also change the angle of the diagonal supports which might interfere with the distance of the main head with these supports. I guess if you are hurting for room you could do this, but I like the versatility.
BlueMacGyver 4 months ago