Added: 3 years ago
From: AtlasRider
Views: 6,432
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  • Ask Kip Kay, I'm sure he can help!

  • WHere did u buy this?

    

  • Oh. Just make sure your led drive voltage is above 0.7 volts or it won't be able to directly drive the transistor.

  • The transmitter will use an IR LED. On the display it uses an IR Receiving transistor. You just need to connect the Anode from the Transmitter to the emitter of the receiving translator and the cathode of the led to the collector of the tranny. Voila. Hard wire connection.

  • Where can I get one??

  • You might try using an OPTO ISOLATOR, as an interface between the remote & the display unit.

  • that one is useless.

    You want one that can "roll" the text.

    That way you can send whatever message you want. Regardless of the lenght.

    With that one, can you only type messages in max:: 2 words with max.: 3 letters in the last word??

  • There are a few things you must do to get this to work properly.

    1) Relocating the Infrared up frnt will not work.. Sunwash. U must have direct connect.

    2) Weather sealant is a must for display and remote.

    3) I thought I saw 4AA batteries. That is 6vdc. U will need two 7805 voltage regs from rad shack to conver 12v down to 6vdc. One prob for display unit and one for control box (unless u run multiline cable up there 2 carry pwr).

    its possible! ) Great video! :)

  • Always a good idea to tell cagers to "back off". Like that's really going to help. Not only novice advice about electronics, but more novice advice about motorcycling. If you have a tailgator that won't back off, given the disparity of the size/weight in vehicles, I let the cager pass every time. No way I'm going to come out ahead getting into a conflict with a car. Sure it upsets me to be tailgated, but nothing worth dying over!

  • Extending the IR Tranceiver will probably add WAY too much resistance/impedence through attenuation. You are going about this all wrong!

    Create your own control box with your own buttons/switches using a project box and some switches from any old electronics store. Rin the wires out of that and solder them onto the PCB in the control box where the built-in buttons are. Wrap up the wires into a cable and mount.

  • Use a three wire shield headphone wire and jack installed into the sign. Put the three wires from the IR receiver to the three wires inside cable or jack. This will extend it out.

  • why cant you just hard wire it,wire from the remote to the sign ?forget the RF for now

  • They always call when your doing stuff... i did a review on my phone a while ago, and a friend rang the phone... my own fault i guess.. but still anoying as hell

  • 0:25...it was a good thing you were wearing pants!!

  • you could use CAT 5 cable for this

    but I would modify the remote rather than the sensor your talking about a minute amount of current generated from the sensor the remote on the other hand will be putting out a fair bit of power

  • Any further with this?

  • No, haven't fiddled around with it any more. Need to make a trip to the electronics store...

  • You done it yet chief?

  • Nah I broke it :(

    Had it working at one point though. I know what's wrong, but I don't know how to fix it :(

  • I'm just trying to figure out where you would actually put it....it's huge~! Wow that sounded so nasty.

  • Would be cool if you could work all that stuff into a replacement LED tail light.

    Going to town with some silicone might make that water tight.

  • I think your on with something here. It would be great to have for assholes driving to close, but it may make you a target. On a Burgman forum, they had T- shirts saying,

    " You just got passed by a guy/girl on a scooter" They should have put cross hairs on the back too for people to get a clean shot. Somehow, I don't think I'll be getting one any time soon!

  • Best to extend the Transmitter diode into the receiver housing. Remember that diodes are polarity sensitive so connect up the way as it was in the controller. There is usually a 'flat' on one side of the Diode to help differentiate. Any old 2 core cable will do - there is practical no current needed. You will need to silicon round all holes and joins in both units if its not waterproof.

  • I forgot about the sunlight sensitivity. That's a good idea to put it inside the remote. Going to try it out. Thanks!

  • haha there were so many people contacting me asking about this.

    I didn't find a way of doing it, I did cheat a bit on the video yes...

    But it's not waterproof anyway, well, not designed to be!

    If you get anything working let me know.

  • I think I can get it working, and I think I can make it water proof too. If I do get it working, you can be sure that I'll have a follow up video...WITHOUT fancy camera work and editing ;)

  • Hi Atlas, I'm usually pretty good with electronics, but this one's got me stumped. I haven't experimented with IR transmitters/receivers before, so I'm not sure where to start.  I hope you get the answers you're looking for!

    btw, you training for another half marathon again?

  • I'm training for a full marathon in Chicago in October. I've got a lot of work to do!

  • dude the link to svens vieo doesnt work

  • Thanks for the heads up. Fixed it.

  • good to see you posting again, about time. lol

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