Added: 4 years ago
From: clloyd234
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  • did you ever work for the usps, how slow can you talk???

  • Here is a good website:

    w w w . oilcom.de Check it!!

  • Manifolds for pressure testing? Perfect way to loose an eye. Seen it happen.

  • clloyd234 how are you hope you are doing good i have a question i asked already this question but i want ask it again hoppfuly you can answer it the yellow hose of the gauges is connected to nitrogen tank and blue hose of the manifold connected to robinaire machine to vacuum it is this the way thanks again great video

  • this is the first time i see this video and is is very nice the way you are showing how is done the charging and evacuating in the system i would like ask something that i dont see when you are pressure testing i see the yellow hose connected on the nitrogen but the blue hose where is connected on what part of the machine i appreciate the answer and nice meeting you at the video thanks

  • @theASEtech Blue hose is connected to the low side or suction line

  • Great video thanks mate. A note though it's good practice to never open the bottle with the regulator open to working pressure side. As I'm sure you may rememebr from school there is a Bourdon tube inside the gauges, they have been proven to become less accurate over time from doing this, and have also been known to fail due to this. Best to Open the bottle, then Open the working pressure, as working pressure side is delicate inside due to the Bourdon tube. Cheers mate. IC.

  • #1:45

    The caps are important because they ARE the primary seal. Thats why have o-rings.

    The schrader valves just retain the refrigerant for servicing.

  • Law of thermodynamics says when you compress gas it heats up but as it cools it turn into liquid. This part happens in the condenser. What happens in the evaporator is just the oposite. The liquid refrigerant evaporates ( turns into gas). Refrigerants evaporates at very low temperature if it is 134 it vaporize at minus 27F. So you can see why it is so freakin cold inside that evaporator. How does it do that? By having an expansion valve. Hope this hels in your troubleshooting

  • I dont hear nothing. Is there sound on this? My CHevy express van stopped blowing cold air.

    I had the system evacuated and freon replaced but still get no air for the rear nice and fresh air in the front but no air in the rear My van is equiped with front and rear AC Is there something else I should check? If anybody knows please give advise Thanks

  • @agent7vm Go to the back of your van and locate the evaporator. I would guess the bolwer fan only work on high or does not work at all. You may find that the evaporator is full of ice if the blower fan do not work. The rear and front ac lines are connected so a leak anywhere and both front and back will not work. So my guess is blower fan in the rear evaporator. good luck

  • my compressor does the same ,the clutch stops every 2 seconds ,it stops and it goes.... and it has freon on it..it blows cold ...is it my clutch thats going bad or what. ..somebody help!

  • @willowst91 If it is fully charge then maybe the expansion valve is blocked. This will cause an extrmely low pressure on the low side and cuts the system on and off.

  • i would never pay to get the evap. changed - well at least on a used car. the entire job would probably cost more than what the car is worth. my 98 mystique has no a/c, and i'm trying leakstop no matter what others say. all i need is a vacuum and gauges. if something clogs, there is nothing to lose..

  • What will happen if you run the system with nitrogen in it? I was always curious and was wondering if anyone's ever seen that.

  • @Rueuhy You may overheat the compressor. It is almost like having air inside it. The air around us is actually mostly nitrogen. Except the nitrogen in a bottle do not have the water molecule in it to harm the A/C system. I would guess it would overwork the compressor and damage it. Maybe flip the internal breaker to prevent it from overheating.

  • lowest common denominator........

  • Great video content!

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  • So, is the unit he's using a recovery machine, recovery tank, vacuum pump in one?

  • my compressor keeps tuning on and off(on then one sec. latter off then two sec latter on for one sec. then off and so on) I do have good Psi. but it just blows warm air? Can someone help me?

  • You are low on Refrigerant. you are cycling on the low pressure control.

    no freon, no cold air.

  • You have a leak. When you're A/C system is at rest, static pressure builds maintaining a closed circuit with the low suction sensor. As soon as you start the A/.C, pressure in the low side drops. Thus causing the low suction switch to open untill pressure builds again.

  • @TheTarrMan

    You are low on refridgerant. I suggest you read on this on purchase a manifold gauge set and either rent or buy a decent vacuum pump designed for A/C work. Don't forget to add PAG oil.

  • hey whats going on buddy. I hate to tell you, you need to repalce the unit thats outside and replace the coils in the unit inside your house or apartment. You got good air pressure and flow but it is not pumping efficiently. I bet if i went over there and pumped freeon in to your system (compressor) the temp wll go down for a short period of time, but when it equalizes the temp will start to rise, in other terms you need to replace those components I mention above.

  • @TheTarrMan that indicates very low on freon.

  • @TheTarrMan By the way with the bottle being upside down you wont introduce any liquid refrigerant into the low side because it will vaporize right away as it escape from the bottle since it's boiling point is so low. 134 for example vaporize at minus 27F. R22 even lower than that.

  • @TheTarrMan I sure can, Because of the stupid EPA, All kinda of stupid sensors and useless valves have been added that fail and cause more problems than less. And the global warming refirgerant 134a used instead of a natural refrigerants like propane or amonia which are 100000% better are not used, Keep in mind this day in age sensors and devices could be used to divert and cut this dangerous fridge from entering the home if a leak occured.

  • @JISINSANE3 dude are you stupid you have a short in the compressor and you will have a bomb and lets be practical would you trust half the guys out there to charge a system with L.P.??

  • @darkshado87 Say, You own a car yes? One that has an electric fuel pump submerged in the gasoline? Maybe not you but most people do, You drive around with enough fuel to blow a hole in the earth 10 feet deep everyday.. NUFF SAID!

  • @JISINSANE3 dude are you stupid you have a short in the compressor and you will have a bomb and lets be practical would you trust half the guys out there to charge a system with L.P.??

  • @JISINSANE3 is correct.. Amonia was replaced by Freon because of a several reported deaths from the use of methyl chloride as a refrigerant...Amonia was tarred along with Methyl Cloride and Dupont / GM developed FREON...IMO and others ive talked to, Freon was only replaced because there was no longer big money to made in it.. R134a allowed the chemical companies and service industry to charge higher prices on supplying and servicing an inferior refrigerant prone to leaks, compressor failure

  • @TheTarrMan how does it turn on and off like that usally if it turns off the compressor is under to much preassure meaning it;s not equalized so it doesnt have th power to overcome the head preassure so they shut off. so i don't see how yours starts and restarts cause i usally gotta wait min 30secs. max 5 mins

  • i think hes pressure testing through the low side because hes thinks theres a leak in the eveporator coil thats all other wise hes wrong

  • pmsl you never pressure test from the low side lol you learn that in the 1st year

    what a wank

  • you can pressure test the low side you should not add it from the low side. The reason for adding it to the high side is you want to see if there may be a blockage in your expansion deivce, whether it be txv or fixed orifice. it give the system pressures a chance to equalize. If you were to add to low side it may only get as far as the crank case of the compressor depending on the type of metering device, positions of the pistons or type of compressor.

  • HvacrTalk . com welcomes Techs contractors and consumers to join free and discuss and trade infor and learn meet others in the trade. good links and resources...all you need is a valid email to activate your account.

  • Why are you pressure testing to 200 psi through the low side? This would retard your gauge.

  • Retarding your low pressure gauge simply means that the resolution of the gauge don't read accurately when the needle goes into the retard zone. Despite controversy over possible damage to the gauge, this will not harm the low pressure gauge, as long as the pressure on the manifold doesn't go beyond the safe working pressure of the gauge manifold, which is 500 psi for a regular set of gauges, higher for R-410a Gauges. As for the test pressure in the system, that's where the regulator comes in.

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