Tour De Bloc climbing competition, Nationals. Mens Finals, 17th May 2009

[riedstep]

Poor guy who was second to last had no one spotting him as he was falling onto his back/neck.

[donnywal]

put a shirt on and stop sweating all over the crash pads guys, come on, it's not THAT hot...

[CDPuffer]

@donnywal it was pretty hot

[progress514]

It is possible to do hard finals yes. However, the finals in this comp were no harder than V8, I was head forerunner, and work closely with the head routesetter for the Tour De Bloc. If they were fresh they all would have probably completed all the problems set. I personally prefer not to grade indoor problems with outdoor grades, i think it can be misleading and the styles of climbing are different.

[devious222]

this is a gorgeous gym. really appreciate the natural lighting!

[adamisuber]

I need to climb right now

[progress514]

thanks for the props, i'll make sure Zig sees this video as well, we stopped forerunning at 5am sat morning. It was epic.

[ntmb]

Jody the head setter knows what he's doing, and the team he had forerunning were just sick!!

Simon V... remember we only ran one camera, so we may have been upstairs. But I've still got my stills to upload to facebook. I may get sround to that tonight

[0Panchovilla0]

And we are missing Simon Villeneuve on 5

[0Panchovilla0]

I am just curious

How would you define V8 or V10?

[progress514]

nothing harder than V8. They were V7 average

[TJJJJJ]

men's and women's problems 1-2 might stay up; and some of the qualifiers will be back up, and the finals were much harder than V8's. these guys do V10's+.

[progress514]

The mens finals were no harder than V7 V8. Nothing at any comp comes close to V10. Remember they have to figure it out and climb it in 5 minutes with minimal rest.

[TJJJJJ]

some of these guys can probably flash V8's outdoors, so i would think these problems are harder. At V7's, there are climbers in intermediate who can probably work the problems and i saw many of them fail to get off the ground when they tried them after the comp.

[progress514]

I was head forerunner at the competition, i assure you, nothing was harder than V8, and almost all the problems were actually V7, or thereabouts.

[devious222]

I'm sure the guys can do v10's after tonnes of beta and lots of work at it. but they are trying to send 5 difficult routes with very little time and rest (like progress514 said)! if they were all v10 that would not be possible really. it is most likely that these are all v8 or less. some of them did flash these problems also.

[huyiy]

i agree, because at ABS, the mens finals are around v10 and these guys climb v14/15

[bootesrocks]

are u serious? i dun think any competition can hit v10, maybe a v8 to v9 at the most? =)

[huyiy]

im serious ive seen a poster for mammut for pros, dan woods flashing v10 comp problem

[CDPuffer]

man world cup problems are insane dan woods gets dominated in europe

[huyiy]

coz its europe problems arent all about burly. from what ive seen here on youtube theyre all super technical

[Dillontheguitarist]

I climb in Male Youth A in the texas region and our finals final route was a v10 and our final qualifer was a v9. It is possible and they are insanely hard..

[jlongmanmtl]

finals problems 4 and 5 were on temporary walls. Problem 5 was on a temporary 45 degree wall that was in front of the lead wall. Finals problem 4 was also a temporary wall. Finals problem 3 had some large holds/temporary features. Qualifier problems were available for the non-National level comp so maybe they replaced them, except again for the problems on the temporary walls.

[windshield0909]

Will they keep them up for a while.

[ntmb]

pretty damn, we tried some of them last night and they were just hard as hell

V8+ i'm guessing

[ferret511]

how hard were these problems?