@4G63DSMPOWER ...and I blow'd it up, too! It's about time you saw this video! lol. I'm in the process of doing it again, but you know that. Thanks for all your time spent watching my stuff!
@Jafromobile lol i probably was. tbh i didnt even know i was subscribed to you i subscribe to all the good dsm vids so yea lol. but now im watchin ur vids i realize dam ive seen alot of these already hahahah. just watched the first start up for this engine also i never seen it lol
@4G63DSMPOWER 48,000 miles with a 8500rpm rev limit (usually shifted below 8000), over 150 drag passes, making 357awhp with 550cc injectors and maxed out injector duty cycles (121-128%). I put 750's in it and got it down to 80%, logging 421hp immediately prior to the bottom end failure which I will soon cover.
@mike1221 I never got notified of your question. I'm sure you got your answer elsewhere. Yes, they're the same lengths, and the 2g one looks much nicer! :)
The manual says that I need 4.5 quarts of oil in the car. But that's with everything stock in the car, right now I'm running a Garret 60 trim turbo on the car, do I need to up the amount of oil in the car? Plus I'm wanting to put an oil cooled on it as well, and I've heard you want to increase the amount of oil when installing one of those. Is this true? Or do I need to stick to what the manual says to use?
@mike1221 The turbo won't make any difference in the oil level, but an aftermarket oil pan or an external oil cooler will.
The manual recommends 4.5 qts to fill the car up to the F mark on the dipstick. When the oil capacity increases, the dipstick is still correct. So if you add those parts, stick to what the dipstick says, and the increase in capacity is the difference between the factory level and however much oil it takes to match the F on the dipstick.
Alright man cool. Well I'll most def be getting that done within the week I'm sure. Me and a guy that lives down the road from me are gonna pull the motor in the coming weeks and do another full engine gasket and seal run. Bc I had it done once..
And the dude I had do the work is real shady, and it looks like he didn't use a torque wrench at all. Just, a lesson learned for sure. So now I'm gonna be tagging it out with a dude I know. I'll keep you posted though.
@mike1221 Yep. Replace that thing, seal up your oil leaks, and the problem should stop! Unless you continue having problems, that's all it is, and the fix is cheap.
Ok cool. I'll have to do that here in the next week or so. I watched the video so I have a good basis on how to test it. I might have to load up a video of what I'm working with on this car, because of the original and second owner of this car really spliced and diced things, and some of the stuff done is just sketchy, and I'm slowly making it better, plus I had a guy rebuild the engine, and did some real shady stuff.. Like only putting 4 bolts in the tranny. What are some other big areas for o
Where's the pcv valve located. I'm sure I've seen it on several occasions and I've never recognized it as such. Also, idk how to run a compression test. What usually causes high crank pressure. The engine is rebuilt, only 2000 miles on the rebuild. Got eagle h beam rods and bearings, .20 bore over, with JE pistons. Could a bad machine shop bore cause the high pressure?
Also, thankyou so much for the information that you have already provided, I've watched most all of your videos, and you're ver
@mike1221 I actually have a compression testing video. It includes checking the coolant system (part of a head gasket diagnosis). The PCV valve is threaded into the back passenger-side corner of the valve cover. It vents blow-by when the engine is under vacuum. Since it sucks it back into the intake, it's supposed to close fully when you're under boost so you don't boost your crankcase. A bad bore would cause high crankcase pressure, but the compression test will pick up on that.
Hey, is there anyway that I could post a video or email you some pictures of an oil that I have? It's very stubborn and has been around for a while, I'll fix one part of the leak and another pops up, I'm in dire need of some help.
@mike1221 I can probably diagnose it just by what you've said.
You're experiencing seal blowouts from high crankcase pressure. I bet the dipstick pops out occasionally. Nohomo. Several things that can cause this. Clogged PCV, failing turbo shaft seals, bad valve stem seals, or burned up rings.
Blow through the hose-side of the PCV and make sure it closes all the way. Check the rings with a compression test. If compression is good, it's probably the valve stem seals. Cyl head refresh.
@TheElevationAudio Nope! I just found others that had what I wanted, and listened. I paid attention to their successes and failures, what worked best for them. I read everything I could on-line regarding alternatives before making changes to assure I was making the right choices.
I was once a poor college kid with a torque wrench, metric sockets, Chilton's manual, and a Toyota truck who couldn't afford a mechanic. Necessity can be a better teacher than any institution if you're determined.
wat kind of paint did you use on the water pipe and throttle body to get that polished aluminum look? it matches everything else perfectly but without the cheap look of normal aluminum colored spray paint...badass engine by the way!
@SuperGasolin With the exception of the LS series GM blocks, not in the past 25 years they haven't. The 351 Cleveland of the early-70's is a champion... one that won the 24 hours at LeMans, and it surprisingly has a lot in common with the 4g63. It was used in some of the world's best performing cars, but that was 40 years ago. Solid-decked cast iron block, huge main journals, aluminum heads and intake ports too big for its own good. You could say the same thing about both! :)
@impleasen You're supposed to put RTV between the caps and the head on the sprocket-side when you're torquing them down. Oil won't seal into the crankcase if you don't. Crankcase pressure will push it out. Fortunately you don't have to take the timing belt loose to fix it if that's your problem.
Nice work, I'm just about to start my 7 bolt rebuild, using a stroker crank, Tomei rods, CP pistons, A Trust TD06-25G turbo, Haltech ECU, full ARP stud kit and heaps of other stuff. It should be good when it is finished, but I am going for the stock look as much as I can, by putting a heat shield over the turbo & custom exhaust manifold etc, to try and keep the police off my back! Keep up the good work!
@stiffy225 485hp at the crank. 357 at the wheels on that particular setup. The dyno vid is posted here. No chrome anywhere on this thing :P It's all polished aluminum and stainless steel. If you want to see how I did that, there are a few polishing videos in my collection. Also if you stay tuned, I'm about to have my transmission on the floor and the clutch out of it again. I'm about to make another YouTube offering to the DSM gods.
@ec17pse HAhah! Yeah, funny you should ask because all 4 of mine are capped off. I'm using the throttle body from a '91-94 turbo car because it's 8mm bigger, but I don't know where that vacuum line goes to on a 1g. '90's and the 2g throttle bodies don't have one. I know on a 2g it's the EGR valve, and the evaporative purge control system. It could be for the boost solenoid or fuel pressure solenoid? But I dunno?... I'm not using any of them.
i was just wondering, im rebuilding a 7 bolt and im in process of the timing, could you give me any special hints of what to look for, i got alot of money rapped up in this thing and i dont want to fuck it up cuz i messed up on the timing, any help would be sweet
@spydergsx97 Nah, I took the easy way out and used fake AN-style hose clamps. Some things aren't worth over-engineering. If I ever took efforts to replace the water pipe, you'd probably see me using AN fittings on everything. The water pipe is some kinda weird alloy... so welding to it would be a chore.
@4g63junkie It's still shiny, but polishing isn't a one-time thing. The first time is just the hardest. Once you've done it the first time, it's continuous maintenance that keeps it bright. Getting it wet is all it takes to need to re-do it. This one doesn't get driven in the rain or snow but I've had it polished since 2005 and I've been maintaining it pretty well.
I get that a lot man. :P It's too time-consuming for this to ever be profitable. Polished factory parts are one of those things that... if you want it... you gotta do it yourself. Even the pros are un-affordable. I have several polishing videos that teach the process, so I won't leave you empty-handed. ;)
@Blazen8gsx Those are -6AN banjo fittings, -6AN Russell straight hose connector, -6AN hose, and a 90° -6AN hose connector. The fitting was ordered from Pegasus, I think... maybe not? There's a thread about a 2g block coolant fitting in DSMtuners about it and got great responses about its thread pitch and what fits. It's 3/4" BSP-to-6AN, but I used a metric fitting, 16mm I think. It's a super-weird fitting and not the easiest to find.
@wwwfchampion That turbo header is junk. I never liked the coolant hose clearance. There are some decent designs, but that particular one was a waste of steel. I got a whopping 2000 miles out of it.
@sigmapsicharlie Well... lightweight and easier to service. This isn't a quick-revving engine out of the box, but can easily be built for 10k rpms+ (if you can build a transmission to handle it). But yeah, it's an interference motor. Still better than a lot of designs out there.
If you want to see a total-fail design, check out the 2.0L Mercury Mistakes. I mean Mystique. Same thing as a Ford Contour. If the cam bolt comes loose, it spins freely on the cam. Won't start if you're 1.5° out.
@sigmapsicharlie I've noticed the new Evo X uses a timing chain on the 4B11 engine, it also has Cam gears filled with liquid for automatic adjustment. Man i wish i had the money for my car to do a tune up and what not. I have a 92 Talon and a 97 Talon, and I cant bare to lose either one, though I guss I could part with one to get the other going.
@bamskyline A short block is just a block, and sometimes a rotating assembly. A longblock is a complete motor from oil pan to valve cover. It's the "long" part list, not the incomplete one. It's a mechanic's figure of speech.
Exelentemente !!!, tus habilidades con los DSM son impresionantes pero lo mas impresionante es que lo hagas todo tu solo, y me refiero con "solo" en ambos sentidos, tanto como hacerlo tu mismo como sin compañia, a muchos, incluyendome nos da flojera meterle mano al auto sin compañia, total, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos
@Jafromobile pues, si, a lo que me refiero es que trabajas solo en tu nave, acaso no tienes amigos aficionados a los DSM que te ayuden o de perdis hagan compañia?, si yo no viviera muy lejos de ti de hechaba la mano de perdis para aprender
The latter of the two. non-OEM coils are almost never an upgrade unless you're using the coils from a Suzuki GSX-R. I make up for it with an ignition amplifier... which makes it an expensive mod. You're looking at around $350-$650 for the CDI. $130-$300 for the COP plate.
It's mostly for aesthetics, especially in my case. I have a different series of how-to videos about the coil-on-plug stuff.
All-natural hand-polished aluminum and stainless. No chrome. The hardest part is sanding it smooth enough for a polished finish to stick.
I powder coated everything that doesn't bling, some of it so that it does. The factory throttle body, water pipe, and dipstick tube are powder coated. Replaced all standard [visible] fasteners with polished ARP Stainless hardware. The heat shield is the only thing painted.
I'm on the East Coast. I found it impossible to find or afford a shop that would do this kind of detail work, so I wound up having to do most everything myself.
If I did this for a living, even I couldn't afford me. The research alone took me more than 5 years and I've been modifying this one since 2001. The real reward is being able to say "I did it", but "I can afford it" can be pretty cool sometimes, too. :P
It's been a good learning experience & I'm lucky to share it.
I just wanna say to anyone considering doing what I did with my breather ports. Don't.
Imagine my surprise putting the hood on and it doesn't close.
I drilled and welded onto my beautiful un-cracked polished valve cover, and I did it wrong. That's the way it goes sometimes. There's no engineering problem that time and money can't fix. I will still have -8AN breather ports but have to figure something else out. Will be back on the road once I do.
Crankwalk is a casting defect. Either the block has it or it doesn't.
There's no way to fix it. It's not a visible defect, so the only sure-fire way to avoid it is installing a 6-bolt shortblock. If it doesn't show up within 120k miles on a 7-bolt, it usually never does unless factors other than the casting come in to play (poor maintenance, poorly adjusted clutch, bad driving habits, oil starvation). Replacing bearings is a temporary fix. It could get you a few thousand miles (or feet).
Awesome build, who is your Colt going? How in the world did you learn how to do all that stuff? That is why you can pimp out your motor hardly any money was spent paying someone else to do all the work. Really fantastic job, keep those videos coming. Can't wait to see the Colt running.
I dunno? Always had a knack with mechanical things. Sorta believe that if someone built it, it can be un-built and rebuilt. Nobody ever told me I couldn't. IMO, every automobile is already a piece of art. I just try to apply my interpretation and bring some of the old-timey hot rod tricks to the import scene.
The Colt's been sitting. I want to see it running, too. The GSX is pretty consuming to fix, so I can only handle one at a time. I'll be back on it very soon. GSX is almost done.
I didn't pay anybody money to make it shine, but I paid dearly for it in other ways. I'll admit the ignition system is overkill. It might cost more money to use -AN lines but it's a permanent solution that doesn't leak or blow out like factory lines do, so it's a justified expense, IMO. The bolt-ons are what they are. This has been going on for 8 years to get to this point.
Most of the money spent (on internals and machining) was back in 2004.
I love these cars =)
hennigar052 4 months ago in playlist eclipse
holy shit!!! jsut wow man. nice build nice lookin motor. fuck....
4G63DSMPOWER 4 months ago
@4G63DSMPOWER ...and I blow'd it up, too! It's about time you saw this video! lol. I'm in the process of doing it again, but you know that. Thanks for all your time spent watching my stuff!
Jafromobile 4 months ago
@Jafromobile what u mean its about time i seen it?
4G63DSMPOWER 4 months ago
@4G63DSMPOWER I thought you were a subscriber when I first posted this one. :P
Jafromobile 4 months ago
@Jafromobile lol i probably was. tbh i didnt even know i was subscribed to you i subscribe to all the good dsm vids so yea lol. but now im watchin ur vids i realize dam ive seen alot of these already hahahah. just watched the first start up for this engine also i never seen it lol
4G63DSMPOWER 4 months ago
how long did this build last? im gettin ready to rebuild mine i spun a rod bearing. still debating on exactly what parts im gonna use
4G63DSMPOWER 4 months ago
@4G63DSMPOWER 48,000 miles with a 8500rpm rev limit (usually shifted below 8000), over 150 drag passes, making 357awhp with 550cc injectors and maxed out injector duty cycles (121-128%). I put 750's in it and got it down to 80%, logging 421hp immediately prior to the bottom end failure which I will soon cover.
Jafromobile 4 months ago
@Jafromobile dam u were tuned? and what happend to bottem end?
4G63DSMPOWER 4 months ago
ha thats funny how he keeps the intake mani up with his head haha
airmannajera 5 months ago
Ohh ok.
I have a question again lol. Do you know if the dip stick on the 1G and the 2G are different lengths?
mike1221 10 months ago
@mike1221 I never got notified of your question. I'm sure you got your answer elsewhere. Yes, they're the same lengths, and the 2g one looks much nicer! :)
Jafromobile 4 months ago
I have another question.
The manual says that I need 4.5 quarts of oil in the car. But that's with everything stock in the car, right now I'm running a Garret 60 trim turbo on the car, do I need to up the amount of oil in the car? Plus I'm wanting to put an oil cooled on it as well, and I've heard you want to increase the amount of oil when installing one of those. Is this true? Or do I need to stick to what the manual says to use?
mike1221 10 months ago
@mike1221 The turbo won't make any difference in the oil level, but an aftermarket oil pan or an external oil cooler will.
The manual recommends 4.5 qts to fill the car up to the F mark on the dipstick. When the oil capacity increases, the dipstick is still correct. So if you add those parts, stick to what the dipstick says, and the increase in capacity is the difference between the factory level and however much oil it takes to match the F on the dipstick.
Jafromobile 10 months ago
Alright man cool. Well I'll most def be getting that done within the week I'm sure. Me and a guy that lives down the road from me are gonna pull the motor in the coming weeks and do another full engine gasket and seal run. Bc I had it done once..
And the dude I had do the work is real shady, and it looks like he didn't use a torque wrench at all. Just, a lesson learned for sure. So now I'm gonna be tagging it out with a dude I know. I'll keep you posted though.
mike1221 10 months ago
Ok, so I pulled the the hose off of the pcv valve and blew into it, it didn't stop the air flow, or didn't seem to do so. Is this a problem?
mike1221 10 months ago
@mike1221 Yep. Replace that thing, seal up your oil leaks, and the problem should stop! Unless you continue having problems, that's all it is, and the fix is cheap.
Jafromobile 10 months ago
Ok cool. I'll have to do that here in the next week or so. I watched the video so I have a good basis on how to test it. I might have to load up a video of what I'm working with on this car, because of the original and second owner of this car really spliced and diced things, and some of the stuff done is just sketchy, and I'm slowly making it better, plus I had a guy rebuild the engine, and did some real shady stuff.. Like only putting 4 bolts in the tranny. What are some other big areas for o
mike1221 10 months ago
Where's the pcv valve located. I'm sure I've seen it on several occasions and I've never recognized it as such. Also, idk how to run a compression test. What usually causes high crank pressure. The engine is rebuilt, only 2000 miles on the rebuild. Got eagle h beam rods and bearings, .20 bore over, with JE pistons. Could a bad machine shop bore cause the high pressure?
Also, thankyou so much for the information that you have already provided, I've watched most all of your videos, and you're ver
mike1221 10 months ago
@mike1221 I actually have a compression testing video. It includes checking the coolant system (part of a head gasket diagnosis). The PCV valve is threaded into the back passenger-side corner of the valve cover. It vents blow-by when the engine is under vacuum. Since it sucks it back into the intake, it's supposed to close fully when you're under boost so you don't boost your crankcase. A bad bore would cause high crankcase pressure, but the compression test will pick up on that.
Jafromobile 10 months ago
Hey, is there anyway that I could post a video or email you some pictures of an oil that I have? It's very stubborn and has been around for a while, I'll fix one part of the leak and another pops up, I'm in dire need of some help.
mike1221 10 months ago
@mike1221 I can probably diagnose it just by what you've said.
You're experiencing seal blowouts from high crankcase pressure. I bet the dipstick pops out occasionally. Nohomo. Several things that can cause this. Clogged PCV, failing turbo shaft seals, bad valve stem seals, or burned up rings.
Blow through the hose-side of the PCV and make sure it closes all the way. Check the rings with a compression test. If compression is good, it's probably the valve stem seals. Cyl head refresh.
Jafromobile 10 months ago
@TheElevationAudio Nope! I just found others that had what I wanted, and listened. I paid attention to their successes and failures, what worked best for them. I read everything I could on-line regarding alternatives before making changes to assure I was making the right choices.
I was once a poor college kid with a torque wrench, metric sockets, Chilton's manual, and a Toyota truck who couldn't afford a mechanic. Necessity can be a better teacher than any institution if you're determined.
Jafromobile 11 months ago
wat kind of paint did you use on the water pipe and throttle body to get that polished aluminum look? it matches everything else perfectly but without the cheap look of normal aluminum colored spray paint...badass engine by the way!
dsmer87 11 months ago
what the hell.western can't do a better engine same as mitsubishi do?hahha.what a fuck!western fuckers!JAPS RULE!!!!
SuperGasolin 1 year ago
@SuperGasolin With the exception of the LS series GM blocks, not in the past 25 years they haven't. The 351 Cleveland of the early-70's is a champion... one that won the 24 hours at LeMans, and it surprisingly has a lot in common with the 4g63. It was used in some of the world's best performing cars, but that was 40 years ago. Solid-decked cast iron block, huge main journals, aluminum heads and intake ports too big for its own good. You could say the same thing about both! :)
<3 my 4g63s.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
why are my brand new cam seals leaking? Should I have put a little silicone
to help seal them, or did I knick them putting them back in, their both leaking?
impleasen 1 year ago
@impleasen You're supposed to put RTV between the caps and the head on the sprocket-side when you're torquing them down. Oil won't seal into the crankcase if you don't. Crankcase pressure will push it out. Fortunately you don't have to take the timing belt loose to fix it if that's your problem.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
Nice work, I'm just about to start my 7 bolt rebuild, using a stroker crank, Tomei rods, CP pistons, A Trust TD06-25G turbo, Haltech ECU, full ARP stud kit and heaps of other stuff. It should be good when it is finished, but I am going for the stock look as much as I can, by putting a heat shield over the turbo & custom exhaust manifold etc, to try and keep the police off my back! Keep up the good work!
devo4g63 1 year ago
Kick ass vid love all the crome do u know how many horse ur pushin and what type of clutch u runin
stiffy225 1 year ago
@stiffy225 485hp at the crank. 357 at the wheels on that particular setup. The dyno vid is posted here. No chrome anywhere on this thing :P It's all polished aluminum and stainless steel. If you want to see how I did that, there are a few polishing videos in my collection. Also if you stay tuned, I'm about to have my transmission on the floor and the clutch out of it again. I'm about to make another YouTube offering to the DSM gods.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
what's with the 4th vacuum on the throttle body? ive only got 3 but not that 1 at the angle? what do you use on that then? great build by the way
ec17pse 1 year ago
@ec17pse HAhah! Yeah, funny you should ask because all 4 of mine are capped off. I'm using the throttle body from a '91-94 turbo car because it's 8mm bigger, but I don't know where that vacuum line goes to on a 1g. '90's and the 2g throttle bodies don't have one. I know on a 2g it's the EGR valve, and the evaporative purge control system. It could be for the boost solenoid or fuel pressure solenoid? But I dunno?... I'm not using any of them.
Thanks for the compliment & for watching!
Jafromobile 1 year ago
i was just wondering, im rebuilding a 7 bolt and im in process of the timing, could you give me any special hints of what to look for, i got alot of money rapped up in this thing and i dont want to fuck it up cuz i messed up on the timing, any help would be sweet
jaymann240 1 year ago
did you weld a 6an bung to the waterpipe for the coolant lines?
spydergsx97 1 year ago
@spydergsx97 Nah, I took the easy way out and used fake AN-style hose clamps. Some things aren't worth over-engineering. If I ever took efforts to replace the water pipe, you'd probably see me using AN fittings on everything. The water pipe is some kinda weird alloy... so welding to it would be a chore.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
wow now thats some time polishing looks good how long did it stay looking good for ?
4g63junkie 1 year ago
@4g63junkie It's still shiny, but polishing isn't a one-time thing. The first time is just the hardest. Once you've done it the first time, it's continuous maintenance that keeps it bright. Getting it wet is all it takes to need to re-do it. This one doesn't get driven in the rain or snow but I've had it polished since 2005 and I've been maintaining it pretty well.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
please post song name or at least artist. :) me likey
xTheBadfishxx 1 year ago
You were right, car porn. I love it. Subbed.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
holy shit. WOuld you sell me valve cover like tht??? pm me bro thanks.
marvaz009 1 year ago
@marvaz009 Hahahah! No.
I get that a lot man. :P It's too time-consuming for this to ever be profitable. Polished factory parts are one of those things that... if you want it... you gotta do it yourself. Even the pros are un-affordable. I have several polishing videos that teach the process, so I won't leave you empty-handed. ;)
Jafromobile 1 year ago
Watched a couple of times now, good video. Keep putting them up they are very helpful and inspiring.
TheBob104 1 year ago
were did you get that turbo coolent feed fitting! i broke my stock one please reply !!!
Blazen8gsx 1 year ago
@Blazen8gsx Those are -6AN banjo fittings, -6AN Russell straight hose connector, -6AN hose, and a 90° -6AN hose connector. The fitting was ordered from Pegasus, I think... maybe not? There's a thread about a 2g block coolant fitting in DSMtuners about it and got great responses about its thread pitch and what fits. It's 3/4" BSP-to-6AN, but I used a metric fitting, 16mm I think. It's a super-weird fitting and not the easiest to find.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
Aww, nice building but there's too much chrome for me 0_o
TheNitBand 1 year ago
@TheNitBand There isn't any chrome anywhere on it. Everything's hand-polished aluminum. Chrome would be cheating.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
@Jafromobile Ho, you know what I wanna say anyway =P
TheNitBand 1 year ago
Dude... lay off the Redbull... moving a tad fast there.
LotusKnives 1 year ago
DAMN THATS SHITS CLEAN MAN !? fuck nice
DaTLaObOIDeE 1 year ago
Absolutely bad ass!
cowmilky 1 year ago
i want!
straw1000 1 year ago
well he dont drive the eclipse hardly bcuz his boost controll is messin up but it's fast @ shit when it's workin right
wwwfchampion 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
this is great ! sick beats tooo! i cant wait fo my gst project to be done have a engine swap goin on these engines arent cheap !!
crazycherryF1 1 year ago
this is great ! sick beats tooo! i cant wait fo my gst project to be done have a engine swap goin on these engines arent cheap !!
crazycherryF1 1 year ago
my buddy has da same header on hs 98 spyder ha had 2 get a metal radiator hose bcuz the header was meltin the rubber 1
wwwfchampion 1 year ago
@wwwfchampion That turbo header is junk. I never liked the coolant hose clearance. There are some decent designs, but that particular one was a waste of steel. I got a whopping 2000 miles out of it.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
I always wondered why Mitsubishi didnt go with a Timing Chain Rather than a belt, thats my worst nightmare is to have a timing belt fail.
sigmapsicharlie 1 year ago
@sigmapsicharlie Well... lightweight and easier to service. This isn't a quick-revving engine out of the box, but can easily be built for 10k rpms+ (if you can build a transmission to handle it). But yeah, it's an interference motor. Still better than a lot of designs out there.
If you want to see a total-fail design, check out the 2.0L Mercury Mistakes. I mean Mystique. Same thing as a Ford Contour. If the cam bolt comes loose, it spins freely on the cam. Won't start if you're 1.5° out.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
@Jafromobile~ polished head..... you faggot!
marek0086 1 year ago
@marek0086 Yes. A SHINY HEADED faggot. d :) b
Jesus forgave both of us already.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
@sigmapsicharlie I've noticed the new Evo X uses a timing chain on the 4B11 engine, it also has Cam gears filled with liquid for automatic adjustment. Man i wish i had the money for my car to do a tune up and what not. I have a 92 Talon and a 97 Talon, and I cant bare to lose either one, though I guss I could part with one to get the other going.
sigmapsicharlie 1 year ago
why would you want a long block?
bamskyline 1 year ago
@bamskyline A short block is just a block, and sometimes a rotating assembly. A longblock is a complete motor from oil pan to valve cover. It's the "long" part list, not the incomplete one. It's a mechanic's figure of speech.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
Exelentemente !!!, tus habilidades con los DSM son impresionantes pero lo mas impresionante es que lo hagas todo tu solo, y me refiero con "solo" en ambos sentidos, tanto como hacerlo tu mismo como sin compañia, a muchos, incluyendome nos da flojera meterle mano al auto sin compañia, total, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos
Z1FU 1 year ago
@Z1FU Gracias mi amigo. Si yo puedo, cualquiera puede. Es dificil volar solo, pero vale la pena el esfuerzo para ayudar a los aficionados del DSM.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
@Jafromobile pues, si, a lo que me refiero es que trabajas solo en tu nave, acaso no tienes amigos aficionados a los DSM que te ayuden o de perdis hagan compañia?, si yo no viviera muy lejos de ti de hechaba la mano de perdis para aprender
Z1FU 1 year ago
@Z1FU Si yo fuera un maestro, eso querría decir que sé qué es lo que estaba haciendo. : P :D
Jafromobile 1 year ago
man this dude has savage ass skills with dsm's hey man were are you located i want a polish job on my 2g
bornzoe 1 year ago
where in the east coast are you in I am in utica,ny if you are close enough I can pay you to work on my 98 gsx let me know thanks
ifeelubu 2 years ago
damn nice build, man
I'm working on a 97 GS-T
=)
how do those coil on plugs work?
are there any increases in performance or efficiency, or is it just to clean up the motor and not have so many wires? lol
almostaskater420 2 years ago
The latter of the two. non-OEM coils are almost never an upgrade unless you're using the coils from a Suzuki GSX-R. I make up for it with an ignition amplifier... which makes it an expensive mod. You're looking at around $350-$650 for the CDI. $130-$300 for the COP plate.
It's mostly for aesthetics, especially in my case. I have a different series of how-to videos about the coil-on-plug stuff.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
Happy...Very nice.. This is painting chrome ?
gpmedeiros 2 years ago
Thanks!
All-natural hand-polished aluminum and stainless. No chrome. The hardest part is sanding it smooth enough for a polished finish to stick.
I powder coated everything that doesn't bling, some of it so that it does. The factory throttle body, water pipe, and dipstick tube are powder coated. Replaced all standard [visible] fasteners with polished ARP Stainless hardware. The heat shield is the only thing painted.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
soooo clean! So beautiful!
Nice build brotha. 5*'s easy.
shawnmgarcia 2 years ago
what city are you in i need to find someone who can do this for me! im in mesa az!
eLpeach 2 years ago
I'm on the East Coast. I found it impossible to find or afford a shop that would do this kind of detail work, so I wound up having to do most everything myself.
If I did this for a living, even I couldn't afford me. The research alone took me more than 5 years and I've been modifying this one since 2001. The real reward is being able to say "I did it", but "I can afford it" can be pretty cool sometimes, too. :P
It's been a good learning experience & I'm lucky to share it.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
I want that engine so i can put it beside my bed and just look at it lol :P. looking good mine will look like that soon.
dominicanlink 2 years ago
only took you 6 min to build it sweet.
watchforfinger 2 years ago
nice .. toda una inspiraion 5*****
pelonDSM 2 years ago
Magnus makes me Emo.... damn that thing is pretty.
Grescht 2 years ago
that is one sexy 4g63
djdarkmunk 2 years ago
I just wanna say to anyone considering doing what I did with my breather ports. Don't.
Imagine my surprise putting the hood on and it doesn't close.
I drilled and welded onto my beautiful un-cracked polished valve cover, and I did it wrong. That's the way it goes sometimes. There's no engineering problem that time and money can't fix. I will still have -8AN breather ports but have to figure something else out. Will be back on the road once I do.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
heey what about the crank walk? i have problems with that and i dont know what to do, repair the same engine or look for a 6 bolts engine.?
menachito 2 years ago
Crankwalk is a casting defect. Either the block has it or it doesn't.
There's no way to fix it. It's not a visible defect, so the only sure-fire way to avoid it is installing a 6-bolt shortblock. If it doesn't show up within 120k miles on a 7-bolt, it usually never does unless factors other than the casting come in to play (poor maintenance, poorly adjusted clutch, bad driving habits, oil starvation). Replacing bearings is a temporary fix. It could get you a few thousand miles (or feet).
Jafromobile 2 years ago
Awesome build, who is your Colt going? How in the world did you learn how to do all that stuff? That is why you can pimp out your motor hardly any money was spent paying someone else to do all the work. Really fantastic job, keep those videos coming. Can't wait to see the Colt running.
Corey3851 2 years ago
I dunno? Always had a knack with mechanical things. Sorta believe that if someone built it, it can be un-built and rebuilt. Nobody ever told me I couldn't. IMO, every automobile is already a piece of art. I just try to apply my interpretation and bring some of the old-timey hot rod tricks to the import scene.
The Colt's been sitting. I want to see it running, too. The GSX is pretty consuming to fix, so I can only handle one at a time. I'll be back on it very soon. GSX is almost done.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
lookin good as always! I hope everything goes well here!
Running925 2 years ago
nice rebuild. how much did it coast you?? someday..i will do the same for my tsi
asianstyle123 2 years ago
Most of what's invested is time.
I didn't pay anybody money to make it shine, but I paid dearly for it in other ways. I'll admit the ignition system is overkill. It might cost more money to use -AN lines but it's a permanent solution that doesn't leak or blow out like factory lines do, so it's a justified expense, IMO. The bolt-ons are what they are. This has been going on for 8 years to get to this point.
Most of the money spent (on internals and machining) was back in 2004.
Jafromobile 2 years ago
good idea on sealing in the fuel rail spacers, i never thought of that and always have trouble when they decide on falling out.
redi4axion 2 years ago
Beautiful build...lots of money invested looks like
TheElyk2005 2 years ago