You know scarecrow, we " ALL" have Holidays in our perceptions & knowledge base, ( It is called being Human I believe ! LOL... ), you done well with this video in "The teachings".... It is important to get younger guys involved for sure.
@fuelban - its been a long time since I reviewed this video - while the facts I present are accurate, the quality of the production sure leaves a lot to be desired - the sound on this recording is terrible - oh well, I never claimed to be a Spielberg
one question : when you talk about "gap" 3volts that means that each "face" of the plate has half that voltage? meaning 1,5 volts? or you mean that each "face" is using 3 volts?
very good that you make the square plates rotated by 45 degrees , i guess that helps the gas to consentrate to the top more easy .never seen that again !
another question is if each plate has the same holes for the gas.
@BeetleJuice1980 - actually, what I measure is the voltage on any two adjacent plates in the system ... what I am interested in, is controlling the voltage that the fluid between any two plates is exposed to ... typically, 2.2v-2.5v has proven to be most efficient ... at 3v per gap, the system starts to generate more heat than gas ...
the diamond layout did not really perform any better but was something I had to try ... round works well too ...
@BeetleJuice1980 - I have done round ... no real performance difference, but I can see where there might be mounting or some other advantage for tall and skinny, short and fat, round, square or some other shape ... the key is enough surface area to support the total watts input and enough neutral plates to control the input voltage ... and yes, my 240v device has 115 plates ... build for the voltage is most efficient ... pull a plate or two; add a plate or two; as needed ...
no ... I have built the device in such a way that temperature is not a problem ... there is adequate surface area to support the total current the device was designed for ... I control amperage by carefully controlling the volume of KOH I mix in the distilled water when I prepare my electrolyte fluid ... PWM's that are able to handle the current demands of devices operated at 90-160vDC at 10-40 amps are hard to come by ... I am working on such a PWM now ...
anyways the woes of 302 steel are they are not easily purged of the carbon before the plate is ruined...but there is probably a way to purge carbon out of cheap ss. i tried to condition them and yes tell me something i dont know plunk down the money for 316l and a work ethic pays off? noo..you mean all my helpers that get the spins trying to keep up with me really are different from me? i thought they were just lazy. hard work never killed any one but why take the chance
yeah, I never had much luck with grades lower than 304 ... 304 seems to work quite well and holds up pretty good ... leaches some oxides but if you keep your volts within reason its ok ... 316 seems more forgiving and is able to take abuse a bit better ...
uh..the design i told you earlier about...very simple smack mod basically. is this patentable ...just dont want instantly to get ripped off ...this cell cost 30 bucks total. now two days later...more carbon and floaties...and only 7 mmw...i filter soup and add dash of noah and it drops to 2 amps cold from 4 before i drive awhile and it goes to 4 amps...oops i realize i need my calc and made several memory mistakes...but last night i calculated an mmw of 9..and its 7 today. i will make a chart
I have yet to see an electrolyser design presented that could not be shown to be a copy of a device in common use drung the late 1800's or early 1900's. so the idea of a patentable electrolyser design is a pretty remote.
my advice is that if you have something you can make for $30 and think you might be able to sell for $60, that provides an honest benefit that people need, make 100 of them and see if anyone will buy one. make money old fashion way, earn it ...
thanks for reply..good work as well. i am not sure that a perfect submergible hho gen for vehicles wouldnt be an improved mousetrap worthy of some deranged patent officer to deem as an improvement to prior mousetraps. i searched electrolysis at patent office and google patents, and i dont see any designs except kliens. submersible cell with no leakage is cheap, makes sense, efficient, saves materials, labor, requires less filling and resolves having other devices added to make dry cell work
two days "conditioning i stick in my car and change the by now nasty soup {they are cheap i guess 301 or 302 chinese 4 gang blank wall cover} anyways found without ac and just the cars dc of 14 or so, it takes 2 shot glasses of NOAH just to get it to 4 amps anyway i measure the hho and get .4 liters at 4 amps! thats an mmw of 9? i triple check...its 400 ml per min? i get my fluke out to measure the current digitally..it reads 3.7 amps and hence the skinny leads it reads 13.5 volts...normal...
scarecrow...kid you not i used a 7 gap 4.5 x 8.25 cell and used my car as power supply. i conditioned or so i thought with a full wave bridge and 4000 uf caps. i measured with my new little 99 dollar hand held scope and measured 14 volts ac and 14 volts dc. i cut it off and the caps held a charge etc and checked everything...guess variacs can only make some kind of tank circuit? no isolation or was it false reading. any way the gen drew 10 amps. i ran like boyce suggested and filtered the soup
U need to print a book "HHO Dry Cell for Dummies" Ill be the first to buy it, seriously u need to kick the oil cartel in the groins, and let the community do the collective development. See what happens when corporate america collapses, U n I get hurt, rich get richer and arabs ride us instead of camels. Share man share, sell yur ideas, i can see a very rich scarecrow.......btw Good Job keep it up
well, to tell you the truth, most of what I know comes from stuff I was able to get freely on the internet ...
start with D9.PDF and progress from there ... not everything in these documents has proven to be accurate, but the info provided is close enough to get most anyone started ...
wealth is a relative term ... in all ways that really matter I am already a very wealthy man ... I dont have much money, but money is not true wealth ... it is illusion ...
I am building a unit with 304 stainless plates.I have read that for optimum generation a gap of .048"-.063" is required. I plan on selling the plates already to assemble(cutting stainless is a bitch)then i found an article saying that using stainless produces hexavalent chromium in the electrolyte which causes cancer and is considered extremely deadly to internal organs! have you
There is truth to the hexavalent chromium issue. The material is deadly when concentrated.
The amounts that will be produced in one of these devices is pretty modest so I not sure I would get overly concerned about it but I suggest being carefull handling your fluids.
304 grade material bleeds a lot more than 316 grade. A properly designed device bleeds less than one that is over driven.
Lots of arguments on plate gap. I have used 1/8" down to 1/32" all with good results.
I have just purchased a sid cell basically like the one you demo on the above video 32 plates. I am wondering if I should purchase a larger alternator for more amps... But Im leaning towards a 12 inverter to 110 volts or even 220 volts.. If I go that way what watt inverter should I purchase. I really like the ability to only hook to wires to the cell.
a small device in the 30 plate range should be able to get very good performance on a 12v system ... if your car has a really weak alternator, you may indeed need to upgrade it ... most will want to hit such a device with 20-30 amps at 12v ... if your alternator is not capable of producing that much to spare, then a larger one may be required ... check the specs on your alternator ...
that would depend on what you are trying to accomplish ... as a car booster, most folks seem to get decent results with as little as 2 lpm of gas output ... this should only take about 30a at 12v to produce ... chances are your car charging system can tolerate that load ... most can ...
I see no advantage to using an inverter unless you are doing maybe 65 plates or so ... you want to get it to about 2.5v per plate gap ... any more and you boil water, not make gas ...
Thanks and good to know!!! I am playing with a Danfoss low pressure controller right now and it looks like it might do the job ok but still needs tested for low pressure accuracy..
Thanks again
Does the flame size vary much from 1 psi to 5 psi?
I am not sure ... I try hard never to put HHO under pressure ... stuff is pretty darn volatile at normal atmo ... put it under pressure and it could be a bad thing ... what makes for a good torch, it volume of flow ... you need a certain critical velocity of the flame front at the tip to keep it from flashing back into your bubbler ... but I keep the pressure as close to zero as possible ...
Someone (perhaps myself) should perform an HHO pressure test just to see at what pressure it explodes (from a safe distance and behind a barrier). Could be a good time!
What are your feelings on using a pressure switch to regulate gas pressure for a torch setup? I like what H2extreme did but i'd like to get your oppinion if it is even needed or to unsafe.. is it better to just ajdust the output of the cell to match the torch tip?
well, I have never had my system pressurize using my torch ... it puts out about 4-5 LPM and my torch tip is a .030 ... never had any problem with it building pressure ... but if I could find a pressure switch that would turn power on at less than 1 lb and turn it off at a little less than 5 lbs, I would grab it ... would be nice if when you turn off the gas at the torch, it would kill the electrolyser too ... I have thought about that and have been looking for a suitable switch ...
key point is to control them volts ... amp make gas, volts make steam and heat ... keep your volts per plate gap around 2v for best efficiency, 3v for best output volume ... but at 3v you will be making some steam and heat so be aware of that ... once you control your volts, add amps to increase gas production and you end up with a productive system that makes gas instead of steam ... it also leaches less brown oxide crud from your plates ...
that is a very strong possibility ... it is being discussed, but there are logistical issues to overcome ... we are spread out all over the world ... even getting two of us in the same room to give a presentation is a challenge ... but we do have VoIP and Video conferencing so its out of the question ...
it depends on the configuration of the device. the way I have this device setup, the amps are constant at between 10 and 15 amps. but I vary the voltage between 60 and 90 volts depending on what I want to do with it.
I could wire it up so it would run on 12 volts if that was what I wanted to do. it is more convenient for me to power it off a wall outlet than to be charging batteries all the time.
thank you so much scarecrow. the light bulb has finally come on for me. i understand why my cells are heating up so much. also thank you for your comments on my video's also. can you tell me where you bought your 6x6 plates?
I cut the plates myself using a circular saw with a metal cutting balde. They were cut from scrap pieces I bought for chump change from a local metal shop. The detail cuts were done, again by hand, using a Dremel tool. Its not as hard as you might think as long as you use fairly thin metal. But the thin metal tends to warp easily. For most, 18-20 gauge material will be fairly easy to work.
another thing how do you keep water pumping through it i don't imagine it's just filled with the little bit of water that can fit in i would think more water would be necessary
I will be posting a video on how to build a proper reservoir for this device before the weekend.
Basically, water feeds into the unit by gravity. NO PUMP NEEDED. As gas is created it exits the device along with a small amount of fluid. I direct the gas/fluid right back into the reservoir at a high point (vertical tower). Here, the fluid drops, the gas rises. The fluid is recycled back through the device, the dried gas is sent on to a bubbler.
Ola. Did you get your next set of plates? I have to wait a bit longer. Cash problems. Question about the reservior. As you know, I put one together similar to yours but since the unit will sit in the middle of the reservior, I was wondering if I will have to use a pump system to get that water circulated. The cell will not be lower than the water. I tried using this on a regular plate cell and water pumped right out the gas line!
I saw your video of you reservoir. It is similar to what I am doing. In mine, the tower also contains fluid. If the fluid level in the tower is higher than the outlet port on the electrolyser, fluid should flow into it and fill it properly. Fluid is ejected with the gas from the outlet. That is normal and is why internally, my tower piece is made like a bubbler so the gas is seperated.
ok what do you use for a power supply inorder to regulate volts just so i can put this one together like you have yours i have just about everything i need to do this except the pvc ends and bolts are your bolts touching the plates i would imagine not but how do you keep them from touching i watched your assembly video but didn't know what it was you put over the bolts was it small pvc?
what I did was cut a notch in the corner of the plate just wide enough so I could slip a female spade connection over it. Cut this notch with a Dremel tool but suspect there are other ways to do it.
I alternate this connection so one plate is fed on one corner and next one in the stack is fed from the corner 90 deg offset. That wasy, there is a space between the connections.
There is a still photo toward end of my first video showing spade notch being cut on my Dremel rig.
My power supply is complex. I have posted a video that describes it and provides a parts list. There are cheaper ways, but what I put together is VERY flexible. I think I put about $250 into the parts for my power supply. But compared to buying 6-8 batteries, was cheap. I would have needed 6-8 batteries to be able to do some of the test I wanted to do. So for me, the custom built power supply was a requirement.
omg ssc i love this video i'm gonna try one of these set up for 12v mabey smaller plates or something i don't know we all appreciate all the shared info
I tell you how many questions I have had about how I "wired" my series cell. This is a good video for all those people who "don't get it". Also, I thought I would mention that voltage across each cell depends on the type of electrolyte and the concentration of electrolyte. Lye is more efficient at saturation because you get working closer to the voltage that water splits at; i.e. 2 volts.
we are finding that the plate material also has an impact ... fellow I know is working with solid nickel as a plate material and he is making some very interesting discoveries about how different plate materials react ... there is still so much we dont know ...
Yes newton energies in FtWorth was tried hundreds of different plate material in their 20 inch HHO cells. He would not tell me what the materials were, except that they plated once side of each plate with a different metal to create a voltage.
The maximum I can pull with my setup is 20 amps. The maximum I was drawing during these tests was 8 amps. Was using a fairly light solution of distilled w/KOH as electrolyte.
Because I start blowing circuit breakers in the house when I get up close to my max 20 amps, I try to maintain a reasonable margin.
The device puts out about 4.5-5 LPM when run at 85v and 17a. About the only time I find it necessary to put it this hard is when I want to play with my torch.
You know scarecrow, we " ALL" have Holidays in our perceptions & knowledge base, ( It is called being Human I believe ! LOL... ), you done well with this video in "The teachings".... It is important to get younger guys involved for sure.
Thom in Scotland.
fuelban 6 months ago in playlist 2007-HHO Experiments
@fuelban - its been a long time since I reviewed this video - while the facts I present are accurate, the quality of the production sure leaves a lot to be desired - the sound on this recording is terrible - oh well, I never claimed to be a Spielberg
SmartScarecrow 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
hello, you have to send the detailed design for my email, so I hope to do Brazil and a generator for use in my car.
altairdesouza@gmail.com
altairdesouza 10 months ago
amazing video! now everything is clear!
one question : when you talk about "gap" 3volts that means that each "face" of the plate has half that voltage? meaning 1,5 volts? or you mean that each "face" is using 3 volts?
very good that you make the square plates rotated by 45 degrees , i guess that helps the gas to consentrate to the top more easy .never seen that again !
another question is if each plate has the same holes for the gas.
thank you so much ! masterpiece!
BeetleJuice1980 1 year ago
@BeetleJuice1980 - actually, what I measure is the voltage on any two adjacent plates in the system ... what I am interested in, is controlling the voltage that the fluid between any two plates is exposed to ... typically, 2.2v-2.5v has proven to be most efficient ... at 3v per gap, the system starts to generate more heat than gas ...
the diamond layout did not really perform any better but was something I had to try ... round works well too ...
SmartScarecrow 1 year ago
@SmartScarecrow
hmm round must be better than diamond , maybe you are right..
and maybe round rubber spacers are more easy to cut than squear...
maybe i should try the round type ..
so you mean that if i use 220volts (greece here) rectified i would need something between 89 and 101 plates .
and if i am right then i can use 101 plates and if i need more voltage per plate i can disconnect some plates to simulate a "89 plate" cell..
correct?
BeetleJuice1980 1 year ago
@BeetleJuice1980 - I have done round ... no real performance difference, but I can see where there might be mounting or some other advantage for tall and skinny, short and fat, round, square or some other shape ... the key is enough surface area to support the total watts input and enough neutral plates to control the input voltage ... and yes, my 240v device has 115 plates ... build for the voltage is most efficient ... pull a plate or two; add a plate or two; as needed ...
SmartScarecrow 1 year ago
Have you tried experimenting with Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) through your electrolyzer to reduce the amps and heat generated?
DavidASmith72 2 years ago
no ... I have built the device in such a way that temperature is not a problem ... there is adequate surface area to support the total current the device was designed for ... I control amperage by carefully controlling the volume of KOH I mix in the distilled water when I prepare my electrolyte fluid ... PWM's that are able to handle the current demands of devices operated at 90-160vDC at 10-40 amps are hard to come by ... I am working on such a PWM now ...
SmartScarecrow 2 years ago
anyways the woes of 302 steel are they are not easily purged of the carbon before the plate is ruined...but there is probably a way to purge carbon out of cheap ss. i tried to condition them and yes tell me something i dont know plunk down the money for 316l and a work ethic pays off? noo..you mean all my helpers that get the spins trying to keep up with me really are different from me? i thought they were just lazy. hard work never killed any one but why take the chance
john29302 3 years ago
yeah, I never had much luck with grades lower than 304 ... 304 seems to work quite well and holds up pretty good ... leaches some oxides but if you keep your volts within reason its ok ... 316 seems more forgiving and is able to take abuse a bit better ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
uh..the design i told you earlier about...very simple smack mod basically. is this patentable ...just dont want instantly to get ripped off ...this cell cost 30 bucks total. now two days later...more carbon and floaties...and only 7 mmw...i filter soup and add dash of noah and it drops to 2 amps cold from 4 before i drive awhile and it goes to 4 amps...oops i realize i need my calc and made several memory mistakes...but last night i calculated an mmw of 9..and its 7 today. i will make a chart
john29302 3 years ago
I have yet to see an electrolyser design presented that could not be shown to be a copy of a device in common use drung the late 1800's or early 1900's. so the idea of a patentable electrolyser design is a pretty remote.
my advice is that if you have something you can make for $30 and think you might be able to sell for $60, that provides an honest benefit that people need, make 100 of them and see if anyone will buy one. make money old fashion way, earn it ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
thanks for reply..good work as well. i am not sure that a perfect submergible hho gen for vehicles wouldnt be an improved mousetrap worthy of some deranged patent officer to deem as an improvement to prior mousetraps. i searched electrolysis at patent office and google patents, and i dont see any designs except kliens. submersible cell with no leakage is cheap, makes sense, efficient, saves materials, labor, requires less filling and resolves having other devices added to make dry cell work
john29302 3 years ago
two days "conditioning i stick in my car and change the by now nasty soup {they are cheap i guess 301 or 302 chinese 4 gang blank wall cover} anyways found without ac and just the cars dc of 14 or so, it takes 2 shot glasses of NOAH just to get it to 4 amps anyway i measure the hho and get .4 liters at 4 amps! thats an mmw of 9? i triple check...its 400 ml per min? i get my fluke out to measure the current digitally..it reads 3.7 amps and hence the skinny leads it reads 13.5 volts...normal...
john29302 3 years ago
scarecrow...kid you not i used a 7 gap 4.5 x 8.25 cell and used my car as power supply. i conditioned or so i thought with a full wave bridge and 4000 uf caps. i measured with my new little 99 dollar hand held scope and measured 14 volts ac and 14 volts dc. i cut it off and the caps held a charge etc and checked everything...guess variacs can only make some kind of tank circuit? no isolation or was it false reading. any way the gen drew 10 amps. i ran like boyce suggested and filtered the soup
john29302 3 years ago
U need to print a book "HHO Dry Cell for Dummies" Ill be the first to buy it, seriously u need to kick the oil cartel in the groins, and let the community do the collective development. See what happens when corporate america collapses, U n I get hurt, rich get richer and arabs ride us instead of camels. Share man share, sell yur ideas, i can see a very rich scarecrow.......btw Good Job keep it up
shanokhala 3 years ago
well, to tell you the truth, most of what I know comes from stuff I was able to get freely on the internet ...
start with D9.PDF and progress from there ... not everything in these documents has proven to be accurate, but the info provided is close enough to get most anyone started ...
wealth is a relative term ... in all ways that really matter I am already a very wealthy man ... I dont have much money, but money is not true wealth ... it is illusion ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
I am building a unit with 304 stainless plates.I have read that for optimum generation a gap of .048"-.063" is required. I plan on selling the plates already to assemble(cutting stainless is a bitch)then i found an article saying that using stainless produces hexavalent chromium in the electrolyte which causes cancer and is considered extremely deadly to internal organs! have you
johncartelli 3 years ago
There is truth to the hexavalent chromium issue. The material is deadly when concentrated.
The amounts that will be produced in one of these devices is pretty modest so I not sure I would get overly concerned about it but I suggest being carefull handling your fluids.
304 grade material bleeds a lot more than 316 grade. A properly designed device bleeds less than one that is over driven.
Lots of arguments on plate gap. I have used 1/8" down to 1/32" all with good results.
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
Hello Scarecrow,
I have just purchased a sid cell basically like the one you demo on the above video 32 plates. I am wondering if I should purchase a larger alternator for more amps... But Im leaning towards a 12 inverter to 110 volts or even 220 volts.. If I go that way what watt inverter should I purchase. I really like the ability to only hook to wires to the cell.
Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Don
donandsandra 3 years ago
Another thought.. Of converting a 2nd alternator to AC output only by removing the rectifier for 60 cyc only.
Thanks Don
donandsandra 3 years ago
a small device in the 30 plate range should be able to get very good performance on a 12v system ... if your car has a really weak alternator, you may indeed need to upgrade it ... most will want to hit such a device with 20-30 amps at 12v ... if your alternator is not capable of producing that much to spare, then a larger one may be required ... check the specs on your alternator ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
that would depend on what you are trying to accomplish ... as a car booster, most folks seem to get decent results with as little as 2 lpm of gas output ... this should only take about 30a at 12v to produce ... chances are your car charging system can tolerate that load ... most can ...
I see no advantage to using an inverter unless you are doing maybe 65 plates or so ... you want to get it to about 2.5v per plate gap ... any more and you boil water, not make gas ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
Haha ya, watching H2extreme hit 19 psi, I had to sit back from the screen a bit.. lol
Maybe a simple micro swtch on the torch handle itself to turn the cell on and off is a better way to go..
joeljohnwilliams999 3 years ago
Thanks and good to know!!! I am playing with a Danfoss low pressure controller right now and it looks like it might do the job ok but still needs tested for low pressure accuracy..
Thanks again
Does the flame size vary much from 1 psi to 5 psi?
Thanks again...
joeljohnwilliams999 3 years ago
I am not sure ... I try hard never to put HHO under pressure ... stuff is pretty darn volatile at normal atmo ... put it under pressure and it could be a bad thing ... what makes for a good torch, it volume of flow ... you need a certain critical velocity of the flame front at the tip to keep it from flashing back into your bubbler ... but I keep the pressure as close to zero as possible ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
Someone (perhaps myself) should perform an HHO pressure test just to see at what pressure it explodes (from a safe distance and behind a barrier). Could be a good time!
Marttico 3 years ago
if you compress it enough to get it up around 1100F it will auto ignite ... but it will take some serious compression to get it there ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
What are your feelings on using a pressure switch to regulate gas pressure for a torch setup? I like what H2extreme did but i'd like to get your oppinion if it is even needed or to unsafe.. is it better to just ajdust the output of the cell to match the torch tip?
Nice work here btw..
I am inspired again... ;)
Joel
joeljohnwilliams999 3 years ago
well, I have never had my system pressurize using my torch ... it puts out about 4-5 LPM and my torch tip is a .030 ... never had any problem with it building pressure ... but if I could find a pressure switch that would turn power on at less than 1 lb and turn it off at a little less than 5 lbs, I would grab it ... would be nice if when you turn off the gas at the torch, it would kill the electrolyser too ... I have thought about that and have been looking for a suitable switch ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
wooow
that was great
thank you
kerz69 3 years ago
Great work!
bornman88 3 years ago
thanks ... hope things are working out well for you with your welder rebuild ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
key point is to control them volts ... amp make gas, volts make steam and heat ... keep your volts per plate gap around 2v for best efficiency, 3v for best output volume ... but at 3v you will be making some steam and heat so be aware of that ... once you control your volts, add amps to increase gas production and you end up with a productive system that makes gas instead of steam ... it also leaches less brown oxide crud from your plates ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
very good points, you should make training videos in cooperation with some of the others
cribcat1 3 years ago
that is a very strong possibility ... it is being discussed, but there are logistical issues to overcome ... we are spread out all over the world ... even getting two of us in the same room to give a presentation is a challenge ... but we do have VoIP and Video conferencing so its out of the question ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
Skype claims to have video conferencing but I myself have not tried it. One of the software Geeks might be able to help but that's not my gig
cribcat1 3 years ago
wow thats impressive - now I HAVE to watch the rest of your videos.
Keep up the good work.
8>|
AlmostHydrogen 3 years ago
enjoy ... some of my videos are more interesting than others ... all try hard to show at least one interesting concept, idea or method ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
Wouldn't more volts bring in less current and decrees water heat rather than 12v with more current.
mikeyidh 3 years ago
it depends on the configuration of the device. the way I have this device setup, the amps are constant at between 10 and 15 amps. but I vary the voltage between 60 and 90 volts depending on what I want to do with it.
I could wire it up so it would run on 12 volts if that was what I wanted to do. it is more convenient for me to power it off a wall outlet than to be charging batteries all the time.
12v @ 100 = 1200watts
100v @ 12a = 1200watts
both make same amount of gas/heat ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
OK thanks
mikeyidh 3 years ago
thank you so much scarecrow. the light bulb has finally come on for me. i understand why my cells are heating up so much. also thank you for your comments on my video's also. can you tell me where you bought your 6x6 plates?
delvis11 3 years ago
I cut the plates myself using a circular saw with a metal cutting balde. They were cut from scrap pieces I bought for chump change from a local metal shop. The detail cuts were done, again by hand, using a Dremel tool. Its not as hard as you might think as long as you use fairly thin metal. But the thin metal tends to warp easily. For most, 18-20 gauge material will be fairly easy to work.
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
Very informative. Thank you. Keep up the great work.
flipster12000 3 years ago 2
another thing how do you keep water pumping through it i don't imagine it's just filled with the little bit of water that can fit in i would think more water would be necessary
stronglungs 3 years ago
I will be posting a video on how to build a proper reservoir for this device before the weekend.
Basically, water feeds into the unit by gravity. NO PUMP NEEDED. As gas is created it exits the device along with a small amount of fluid. I direct the gas/fluid right back into the reservoir at a high point (vertical tower). Here, the fluid drops, the gas rises. The fluid is recycled back through the device, the dried gas is sent on to a bubbler.
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
Ola. Did you get your next set of plates? I have to wait a bit longer. Cash problems. Question about the reservior. As you know, I put one together similar to yours but since the unit will sit in the middle of the reservior, I was wondering if I will have to use a pump system to get that water circulated. The cell will not be lower than the water. I tried using this on a regular plate cell and water pumped right out the gas line!
kevlauenterprises 3 years ago
I saw your video of you reservoir. It is similar to what I am doing. In mine, the tower also contains fluid. If the fluid level in the tower is higher than the outlet port on the electrolyser, fluid should flow into it and fill it properly. Fluid is ejected with the gas from the outlet. That is normal and is why internally, my tower piece is made like a bubbler so the gas is seperated.
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
ok what do you use for a power supply inorder to regulate volts just so i can put this one together like you have yours i have just about everything i need to do this except the pvc ends and bolts are your bolts touching the plates i would imagine not but how do you keep them from touching i watched your assembly video but didn't know what it was you put over the bolts was it small pvc?
stronglungs 3 years ago
what I did was cut a notch in the corner of the plate just wide enough so I could slip a female spade connection over it. Cut this notch with a Dremel tool but suspect there are other ways to do it.
I alternate this connection so one plate is fed on one corner and next one in the stack is fed from the corner 90 deg offset. That wasy, there is a space between the connections.
There is a still photo toward end of my first video showing spade notch being cut on my Dremel rig.
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
My power supply is complex. I have posted a video that describes it and provides a parts list. There are cheaper ways, but what I put together is VERY flexible. I think I put about $250 into the parts for my power supply. But compared to buying 6-8 batteries, was cheap. I would have needed 6-8 batteries to be able to do some of the test I wanted to do. So for me, the custom built power supply was a requirement.
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
omg ssc i love this video i'm gonna try one of these set up for 12v mabey smaller plates or something i don't know we all appreciate all the shared info
stronglungs 3 years ago
I tell you how many questions I have had about how I "wired" my series cell. This is a good video for all those people who "don't get it". Also, I thought I would mention that voltage across each cell depends on the type of electrolyte and the concentration of electrolyte. Lye is more efficient at saturation because you get working closer to the voltage that water splits at; i.e. 2 volts.
Keep up the good work!
cheaphardwarez 3 years ago
we are finding that the plate material also has an impact ... fellow I know is working with solid nickel as a plate material and he is making some very interesting discoveries about how different plate materials react ... there is still so much we dont know ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
Yes newton energies in FtWorth was tried hundreds of different plate material in their 20 inch HHO cells. He would not tell me what the materials were, except that they plated once side of each plate with a different metal to create a voltage.
cheaphardwarez 3 years ago
This is a very good video. You have done an outstanding job of showing what you are doing.
Thank you,
Jack
dulcajack 3 years ago
very nice vid SSC
mielectric1 3 years ago
what is the amp across the cell?
pochintwin 3 years ago
The maximum I can pull with my setup is 20 amps. The maximum I was drawing during these tests was 8 amps. Was using a fairly light solution of distilled w/KOH as electrolyte.
Because I start blowing circuit breakers in the house when I get up close to my max 20 amps, I try to maintain a reasonable margin.
The device puts out about 4.5-5 LPM when run at 85v and 17a. About the only time I find it necessary to put it this hard is when I want to play with my torch.
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago