Hello Ben, I am currently learning a lot about strobism etc, I use a Canon 7D with a 580MK II and two 430MK II Speedlites, just two quick questions if you would be so kind as to answer them.
1) What would you suggest would be a good, cheap flash trigger system rather than a pocket wizard which is crazy money.
2) Your lighting diffuser, is it just a standard one? Where abouts did you get a large one like that from?
I am typing from the UK but I am sure we will have them here.
@ShinotamaTakemuro I recommend the Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs. They are 1/8 the cost of PW's and perform great. By "diffuser" I am assuming your talking about the umbrella. It is a standard 43" Convertible Umbrella. I strongly recommend convertibles because you get a reflective and shoot-though umbrella in one package. Also be sure to get a 60" for a larger apparent light source and full body shots.
hey dude awesome talent u got there. i need some help please! i've bought 430ex ii canon speedlite and put it on 600D/T3i canon (even have started using wireless) and when i shoot in AV (aperture priority mode) the shutter speed is so slow that it blurs the picture i have it on eTTL ii and every possible setting has been checked. i know the second curtain sync and all but i just want a decent shutter speed anything over 1/80 as i have big flash on the top on my camera at f1.8 please help!
Hey big Ben I have a question. I am a beginner strobist, I use the old 285hv vivitar flash because of the power. I've been told that I won't be able to shoot against the sun with those? Is that true? I haven't shot outside yet so I don't know. Thoughts!
@ednikkel Any and all flashes are limited by there low power when shooting in the sun as that situation usually require far more watts to "overpower" the hard and bright the sun produces. Shooting during the early morning or sunset is preferred as well as sticking to locations in Open Shade as it will be more flattering to your subject (no harsh shadows from the sun) as well give you a dark enough ambient exposure to use your flash appropriately.
@bigbs4 The Vivitar 285 is great other than its proprietary sync jack. David Hobby's Strobist site posted a mod that will convert it to a normal 3.5mm mono plug for easier plug and play compatibility with your radio triggers
Thanks for the videos. And there will always be haters on YouTube. I think it's the new firm of "flexing your muscles" for the girls. Calling out the person making he video for every little thing. It's either "I'm smarter than you" or "you are so much better that me I have to bring you down" misery loves company.
I like your vids. You inspire me to think creatively with my equipment that I have. I don't know why people whine about the content on YouTube. It doesn't get any better than this. It's all free and nobody is forcing you to watch. Anyways, thanks for the hard work and don't let the "haters" bother ya !
Only major problem in this equation and what so many band wagon strobist newbie fanboys forget is "The pocket sized flash is no tool" to be able to "Turn up the power" enough to compete with broad daylight.. Or direct sunlight. Not to mention dangling a 400 dollar pocket flash on the end of a pole with a "Wind catching" umbrella just waiting to be blown over and bend and break a pocket flash. Recycle times of a pocket flash too lets not even get started.
@rmstudio While there is no "Do-It-All" light that suffices every need, I create these videos for amateurs stepping into off camera and artificial lighting. For those on a budget, you can't beat the price of and "bang of the buck" of a flash. And there is no need to spend 400 dollars on a flash as any true strobist will be utilizing manual modes and only needs a flash with sync port and adjustable power. As far as wind, would you rather have your $100 flash on a pole or $3000 ProFoto?
@bigbs4 I am not stating that a flash will cover every need, as the lack of power and extended recycle times can be major issue as you stated, however, flashes do have there time and place just like every other source of artificial lighting.
I am a fan of flashes as I can pack them into remote places, acquire them for less than a $100, mount them easily, and modify their quantity and quality like any other strobe.
As far as overpowering the sun, while unconventional, is attainable with a flash.
@bigbs4 Yes I agree but your speech is incorrect as anyone taking a quick peek at "Any" flash forum or "Strobist" forum 90 percent of newbies do what? follow the leader and bandwagon which is to go out and buy a 400 dollar pocket flash "Underpowered" at that and try to shoot outdoors against the sun. No were did I mention buying a 3,000 Profoto. "By the way there are 800 dollar" profotos out there. but any mono light will do far better than a 400 dollar MFG pocket flash paid endorsement product
@rmstudio I can see your point, as why I have several videos based on assisting new photographers on selecting a flash that is less than a 100 dollars. New photographers are often timid and afraid of stepping into the costs of a mono light, as to why most of us start with speedlights. I am merely here to educate and inspire photographers new to off camera lighting rather than debate over the technical aspects and pros/cons of light sources. Thanks for your input, happy shooting.
So for someone getting started with off camera flash work, would you suggest not trying the techniques mentioned in this video? This video is to show techniques, if people want to buy stronger flashes then they can. The flash was used as fill and it worked just fine. The wind issue - Don't shoot on windy days if your worried, or sandbag your light stands. Recycle times - Big whoop, you have to wait a few seconds. Sometimes making people slow down is a good thing.
@Dooobs Well as far as placement of lights and angles sure this is fine but as far as technique? that covers more than just light placement and angles etc it also covers types of lights "Not brands" & also the power output changes the techniques. With more powerful lights you are not "Fighting" the sun or ambient light you can "Control it" instead of the Ambient "Controlling you" I can tell your inexperienced by the recycle time of batteries "big whoop" nothing like missing a shot because of it
@Dooobs 2nd part why spend money on a 400 dollar underpowered limited pocket flash? when you can buy a real light. Also on the wind its clear you have not been shooting much because you would know that wind comes and goes and things change. When I have a paid job to do I do not tell a client 1/2 hour before a shoot "Reschedule" its getting windy. Yes sand bags is something that should be taught. Dont leave things to chance. But mostly this video is good on everything else.
Buy a real light? Whats a real light? A studio setup with plenty of power? Yes, I understand, if you are selling your services you can't afford to be leaving things to luck (ie weather) and you want to have the best gear you can afford to allow you to make the most of a shoot. My understanding is these videos are for beginners, not pros so you can hardly compare the two. Pocket flashes are great for starting, and you can even get great professional shots with them, its how
@Dooobs The thing is Pocket flashes are actually not really good for beginners to learn on if you really want to make the point of "This is a video for beginners". Actually pocket flashes are very expensive these days for the amount of power and usefulness you get out of them. Sure if you own "ONE" already and want to learn how to use I am all for it. But to go out and buy 2 or more is not wise. You learn more on a studio light and its the same amount of money but more bang for you buck.
@rmstudio use them. Recharge on batteries? I was talking about the flash cycle speed. I'm no professional, I am a beginner and I'm not saying otherwise. I just think you were being a bit cynical on the video. I don't want to get into an e-battle, I just think that the video had good information that someone new can take on board. We all start somewhere, and not everyone can afford fancy equipment. Using a pocket flash is a great start, and can be used even for professional shoots.
For studio / portrait photography do you recommend the continuous lighting or would you recommend to use speed lights through the same setup (3 point lighting setup)? what brand would you recommend ?
like your video bro lots of help im the same way i was born in the wrong period of time I like a lot of old school photography is that an sb nikon 600 speedlight you have set up .?
Thanks for sharing the tutorial. Good tips and beautiful images. The tutorial itself is a little hard to hear at times and really could do without the rock music backing track. I like rock music but it really is a distraction on here and doesn't help me hear the instruction. Other than that it's great, thanks again for sharing
@scottcobain27 The 5D II is an amazing camera. As a photographer AND cinematographer, I can't say enough positive about them and their ability to perform in low light situations, especially with video.
I'm shooting a Nikon D300, but I don't have a remote trigger. I'm using the on-camera flash to fire the strobes, but I'm having issues with the resulting images: It appears there is a light fog over the subject. I tought it was the light flaring off my daughter's powder base, but I'm wondering if it's tied to using the on-camera flash as part of the lighting set-up.
@mcrawford29 Are you using Speedlights? If you are using Nikon SB-600, 800, 900, etc. you need to be using the Nikon CLS System to trigger your flashes. If you are close to your subject, the on camera flash will be contributing to the exposure and potentially causing the flare you are seeing. Make sure all your lights are covered properly as well meaning if you can see the flash head in your viewfinder, it can also cause flaring. Send me a link to the images.
@bigbs4 I found the CLS master control, and that helped but I'm still having some issues. It seems that my D300 is having a focus issue: I focus on the face, but it's just not sharp at all - but other parts of the body will be sharper. Hope I'm not having a camera malfunction. It's only a few months old.
@bigbs4@bigbs4 I found the CLS master control, and that helped but I'm still having some issues. It seems that my D300 is having a focus issue: I focus on the face, but it's just not sharp at all - but other parts of the body will be sharper. Hope I'm not having a camera malfunction. It's only a few months old.
@mcrawford29 Make sure you are on AF-S and not AF-C. Make sure you are at the minimal focal distance for the lens you are using. Make sure your sensor and the back glass of the lens is clean. Switch to spot focus and spor metering. If are unsure what these settings are, head out and pick of the "Digital Field Guide for The Nikon D-300"
@proTest443 Started Out around 1/2 when the sun was still up. The last shots where the sun was past setting and commencing into twilight was around 1/32.
I love your videos bro! I got an issue using the speedlights for strobist. How do you keep them to stay on if you're not pressing the trigger for a long period of time? Thanks.
@mummyza If you speedlights are idle for an extended period of time, they will go in to a "stand by mode" to conserve battery power.
Go into the settings of the light and change it so it always stays on. Each model is different. Most of Nikon Speedlight Menus can be accessed by holding down the Select button for 3 seconds.
@mrrap4food My Nikon Flashes use batteries to power them. There is no need for a generator. The best batteries for flashes are any NimH (Nickel Metal-Hydride) with minimum rating of 1800mA.
Hello, Great Photos , Understand the tutorial perfectly!
But i am limited to only two soft boxes, and a canon camera with no wireless capabilities whats so ever to control a speed light outside the hot shoe , Is it possible to be able to get the same effect and do all of what you did in the video with just two soft boxes? Say if you were shooting in an area similar to the one in the video ?
@redhammer No, Shoot entirely in manual, take a metered reading of the ambient exposure using the camera's built in light meter, then adjust Aperture and Flash power to expose for the model as desired. I never use Aperture or Shutter Priority modes.
@bblove302 The 85 is a go-to lens for portraits, the new model Nikon released is on my wish list. I have rented them in the past and used them on cropped and full framed bodies with amazing results.
@SuperSeyoe I agree. The 50mm f/1.8 is a great lens to step into the world of shallow depth of field and shooting in low-light situations. They cost around 130.00 USD and have amazing sharpness and minimal aberration or fringing under the proper conditions.
I agree with bblove302. On a crop sensor, it makes a great portrait lenses. However, be weary for close headshots and other closeups as it does as significant barrel distortion.
@Exupery1976 ISO/ASA will also affect your flash exposure as well as the ambient light. As a portrait photographer, I'd rather slow my shutter speed till the point I can no longer hand-hold the camera and then raise ISO as a last result as I want as little noise as possible in the images. Also if I were to bump up ISO, I would have to either stop down my aperture and turn down the power of my speed light to counter the ISO bump.
@bigbs4 That makes sense. You must be shooting in manual mode on your flashes. If one were to shoot with their flashes set to TTL the ISO trick I was talking about would work, I think. Like you mentioned though, it comes at the price of noise.
@Exupery1976 I always shoot on manual mode both in camera and with my flashes. I consider TTL to be inconsistent as each click of the shutter meters a little differently and the images will not be the same. When I first started out, I shot with TTL, I use the Exposure Value Compensation feature (EV+/-) that allows us to compensate exposure within small margins. Your ISO trick does work when a big adjustment is needed. I appreciate your comments as there are a big number of TTL users out there
@eikelben Thanks for the correction... And all this time I've been calling it the wrong thing. Thanks for stopping me look like an idiot! I appreciate it. I love sharing my knowledge and making these videos as I am student as much I am the teacher. Happy Shooting!
Well.. what you said at the end... The aperture is also affecting the ambient light not just the shutter speed-- but I guess what you are trying to get across is not if you adjust the flash power in tandem with the aperture.
Its great that you know aperture controls flash power and shutter controls ambient, there are some douches out there who firmly believe aperture controls ambient and it irritates me when I hear it. Aperture controls intensity of a source. Some people just dont know, you on the other hand are the man!!! Good work!!!
thanks a million times for the invaluable tips. others would take an hour just to give the tips and notes u did in this short video, however please accept my opinion that your execution i mean your photos are not nice,
Hi there . . . quick question dude what kind of boom arm are you using there ?? do you have a link to it ?? I recently bought an Ebay one , but as you can imagine it is not exactly what I was expecting , Thanks dude this video totally ROCK
@vruychev Radio Triggers are the way to go. I use the Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs. It is the same creators of the infamous Alien Bees lights. Other options are the Elinchrom Skyports, Radio Poppers, or Pocketwizards if you have the money to get them.
I don't have a posing book although there are some good ones out there. I usually look around at magazines and other work for inspiration. There are some basics as far as not locking knees, intertwining fingers, etc. that will help you out. I'd check out Amazon or Barnes & Noble and see what they have. Hell, I am curious myself
I just watched cause I saw pinups , good job man keep it up =) I also want a boom and also a reflective umbrella I'm currently using shoot through with regular light stands so I can't wait to hit the next galaxy of better gear haha
@ChristiaanL14 Manfrotto 420B Convert Boom Stand. Works great for light weight speed lights and plastic modifiers. I'd also look at the new Photoflex Converitble Umbrellas for as the ribs are now flexible plastic so they don't break WHEN they blow over.
when you say expose for the background. do you mean.. shoot with no flash get the exposure right based on the sky, then trun flash on and adjust flash power to light the subject right?
You got it. Get the ambient exposure dialed in to where you like it. Then set up your flash or other artificial light source and dial in that exposure by adjusting the light's power and your Aperture. Whenever I am shooting situations where I am using more than one light, I fire each flash one at a time to "see" what I am getting. I can then adjust independently and "sculpt" my lighting setup
@Lofote Your absolutely right However, the target audience for these videos is those that are just starting out in off camera lighting. I want to get them over that fear and frustration we've all felt when we started out. I want to simply introduce viewer to the notion that we are now dealing with 2 exposures. I want to get away from the 60 year old high school teacher's film curriculum that preaches the Inverse Square Law and to never go above sync speed.
G'day mate! I've just bought myself a 50cm by 50cm portable softbox, I'm a little worried it won't fit much more than the waist up in my portraits.. What do you reckon?
Nice video, I like the way your model dance between 2:07-2:11 xD On the last photo, ever tought of using a cto gel and set the withe balance to tungsten to see what it like, ive seen a shot on the strobist blog with this set up (if my memory dont fail me lol), it kind a give a dramatic effect and it turn the dark sky into deep blue.
Thank you. Great video. Can I ask you a question. I find that when my ambient light is low, I have to set the shutter very low and I get a lot of blur, even if I am using the flash. Also, I find if its not enough light, my auto focus does not work too good. Im working on a canon 20d. Thank you.
@Santiagoyt18 All flashes regardless of what shoot or location need NiMH batteries (Nickel-Metal-Hydride) that are rated at 1800ma or higher. These are rechargeable and have no memory as well as give you the power and the quickest recycle times. Avoid alkaline at all costs.
I just wanted to say thanks and compliment you on your approachable style. Your willingness to share is appreciated. I recommend to anyone watching that they re-watch a time or two. Lots of little tid-bits can get missed the first time through.
Beautiful setting and beautiful model, but why the charlie chaplin quick quick. I can't concentrate on your words, which I am sure are very instructive, when the picture is flashing around in a triple speed.
@tattoosoul123 after you expose for the background you need to expose for your subject to match your previous settings you got from your background. I was using my cameras light meter for two years with some pretty good results, but 2 years ago I got seconic light meter and nothing can beat the accuracy and speed on getting a perfect exposure all the time.
Any Light Stand will do. While I love DIY Modifiers and Budget setups, I tend to not go cheap on light stands. All of mine are Manfrotto's and cost around $75USD
Hi! And thanks for the helpful tutorial. I am just starting to explore speedlights. It still seems complicated to me what you have mentioned: speed controls the ambient light and aperture the model's exposure?
Does this mean that after getting the right combination of aperture+flash power when u manualy change the speed you will not change exposure on the model, but only exposure in the background? i.e. speed never affects exposure of the model?
Lots and lots of reading, watching Youtube Videos, attending local Photography Meetups/ events, and most importantly, shooting as much as I can. I've never taken a class or collegiate course in photography whatsoever. My educational background is in a completely different subject.
Keep Reading, Asking, Watching, and Doing and you'll learn.
@bigbs4 hi could you please, recomend me any digital slr camara, i want to shoot a guy on a park, at 3 pm with sun, i heard it doesn't matter the pixels, but the lenses, i don't know anything about it, thank you
hey its really good i love to shoot with help of only speedlite.....can u tell me if the shutter speed is 1/250 then what shud b aperture? how to control background.-Deepak from india
hey its really good i love to shoot with help of only speedlite.....can u tell me if the shutter speed is 1/250 then what shud b aperture? how to control background.-Deepak from india
outfit were good, however your model pose were rubbish, even more seen like photographer not understand basic law of photography such some of stuff straight coming out from beind of subject. in my view really photo result r not equal to outfit he use.
Hey really love your tutorials... I'm not too sure on the steps to take for exposures of the ambient light and the proper exposures for the subject. Thanks for understanding!
hey thanks for this, just so that I get this straight. You make the water/sky okey regarding to you F/iso and when you have that correct, all you do is turn on the flash?
You want to expose for the ambient light and then use your flash to expose for the model. Remember Aperture controls the Flash's exposure and Shutter speed controls Ambient (the sky /background's) exposure. Whenever we introduce a flash or strobe, we now have 2 exposures.
Wow I did not know that, very useful information and this would explain while using a strobe my backgrounds usually end up dark. But how far do you normally have to take your shutter speed down to make an effect?
hey man i really like the music behind this. what band? who is playing harmonica?
d4dogphotography 3 days ago
good photos, disgusting video - artificial vigneting, noise...i am gonna puke
Vechet 1 week ago
Hello Ben, I am currently learning a lot about strobism etc, I use a Canon 7D with a 580MK II and two 430MK II Speedlites, just two quick questions if you would be so kind as to answer them.
1) What would you suggest would be a good, cheap flash trigger system rather than a pocket wizard which is crazy money.
2) Your lighting diffuser, is it just a standard one? Where abouts did you get a large one like that from?
I am typing from the UK but I am sure we will have them here.
Many thanks =)
ShinotamaTakemuro 2 weeks ago
@ShinotamaTakemuro I recommend the Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs. They are 1/8 the cost of PW's and perform great. By "diffuser" I am assuming your talking about the umbrella. It is a standard 43" Convertible Umbrella. I strongly recommend convertibles because you get a reflective and shoot-though umbrella in one package. Also be sure to get a 60" for a larger apparent light source and full body shots.
bigbs4 2 weeks ago
Thanks for the feedback man. I look forward to watching more of you vids.
ednikkel 3 weeks ago
This has been flagged as spam show
hey dude awesome talent u got there. i need some help please! i've bought 430ex ii canon speedlite and put it on 600D/T3i canon (even have started using wireless) and when i shoot in AV (aperture priority mode) the shutter speed is so slow that it blurs the picture i have it on eTTL ii and every possible setting has been checked. i know the second curtain sync and all but i just want a decent shutter speed anything over 1/80 as i have big flash on the top on my camera at f1.8 please help!
burningbaba 3 weeks ago
Hey big Ben I have a question. I am a beginner strobist, I use the old 285hv vivitar flash because of the power. I've been told that I won't be able to shoot against the sun with those? Is that true? I haven't shot outside yet so I don't know. Thoughts!
ednikkel 4 weeks ago
@ednikkel Any and all flashes are limited by there low power when shooting in the sun as that situation usually require far more watts to "overpower" the hard and bright the sun produces. Shooting during the early morning or sunset is preferred as well as sticking to locations in Open Shade as it will be more flattering to your subject (no harsh shadows from the sun) as well give you a dark enough ambient exposure to use your flash appropriately.
bigbs4 4 weeks ago
@bigbs4 The Vivitar 285 is great other than its proprietary sync jack. David Hobby's Strobist site posted a mod that will convert it to a normal 3.5mm mono plug for easier plug and play compatibility with your radio triggers
strobist.blogspot.com/2007/07/jack-up-your-vivitar-285hv.html
bigbs4 4 weeks ago
Hi :) what wirless flash trigger do u use? and what is the setup of the speedlight? thxx
adhamyaadham 4 weeks ago
Oh and dont let that idiot bothers you. Please keep on posting more vids. Enjoyed all your tubes so far.
aigbombers 1 month ago
Fantastic video. Thank you so much for posting this. I have been wanting to do this type of shoot and you gave me some great ideas and motivation.
aigbombers 1 month ago
nice work big Ben
jssiler 1 month ago
Awesome!!! Congrats!!! You're The Man.
fhmero 1 month ago
Thanks for the videos. And there will always be haters on YouTube. I think it's the new firm of "flexing your muscles" for the girls. Calling out the person making he video for every little thing. It's either "I'm smarter than you" or "you are so much better that me I have to bring you down" misery loves company.
Uscbryan949 2 months ago
I like your vids. You inspire me to think creatively with my equipment that I have. I don't know why people whine about the content on YouTube. It doesn't get any better than this. It's all free and nobody is forcing you to watch. Anyways, thanks for the hard work and don't let the "haters" bother ya !
JasonLaurain 2 months ago
Only major problem in this equation and what so many band wagon strobist newbie fanboys forget is "The pocket sized flash is no tool" to be able to "Turn up the power" enough to compete with broad daylight.. Or direct sunlight. Not to mention dangling a 400 dollar pocket flash on the end of a pole with a "Wind catching" umbrella just waiting to be blown over and bend and break a pocket flash. Recycle times of a pocket flash too lets not even get started.
rmstudio 2 months ago
@rmstudio While there is no "Do-It-All" light that suffices every need, I create these videos for amateurs stepping into off camera and artificial lighting. For those on a budget, you can't beat the price of and "bang of the buck" of a flash. And there is no need to spend 400 dollars on a flash as any true strobist will be utilizing manual modes and only needs a flash with sync port and adjustable power. As far as wind, would you rather have your $100 flash on a pole or $3000 ProFoto?
bigbs4 2 months ago 5
@bigbs4 I am not stating that a flash will cover every need, as the lack of power and extended recycle times can be major issue as you stated, however, flashes do have there time and place just like every other source of artificial lighting.
I am a fan of flashes as I can pack them into remote places, acquire them for less than a $100, mount them easily, and modify their quantity and quality like any other strobe.
As far as overpowering the sun, while unconventional, is attainable with a flash.
bigbs4 2 months ago
@bigbs4 Yes I agree but your speech is incorrect as anyone taking a quick peek at "Any" flash forum or "Strobist" forum 90 percent of newbies do what? follow the leader and bandwagon which is to go out and buy a 400 dollar pocket flash "Underpowered" at that and try to shoot outdoors against the sun. No were did I mention buying a 3,000 Profoto. "By the way there are 800 dollar" profotos out there. but any mono light will do far better than a 400 dollar MFG pocket flash paid endorsement product
rmstudio 2 months ago
@rmstudio I can see your point, as why I have several videos based on assisting new photographers on selecting a flash that is less than a 100 dollars. New photographers are often timid and afraid of stepping into the costs of a mono light, as to why most of us start with speedlights. I am merely here to educate and inspire photographers new to off camera lighting rather than debate over the technical aspects and pros/cons of light sources. Thanks for your input, happy shooting.
bigbs4 2 months ago
@rmstudio
So for someone getting started with off camera flash work, would you suggest not trying the techniques mentioned in this video? This video is to show techniques, if people want to buy stronger flashes then they can. The flash was used as fill and it worked just fine. The wind issue - Don't shoot on windy days if your worried, or sandbag your light stands. Recycle times - Big whoop, you have to wait a few seconds. Sometimes making people slow down is a good thing.
Dooobs 1 month ago
@Dooobs Well as far as placement of lights and angles sure this is fine but as far as technique? that covers more than just light placement and angles etc it also covers types of lights "Not brands" & also the power output changes the techniques. With more powerful lights you are not "Fighting" the sun or ambient light you can "Control it" instead of the Ambient "Controlling you" I can tell your inexperienced by the recycle time of batteries "big whoop" nothing like missing a shot because of it
rmstudio 1 month ago
@Dooobs 2nd part why spend money on a 400 dollar underpowered limited pocket flash? when you can buy a real light. Also on the wind its clear you have not been shooting much because you would know that wind comes and goes and things change. When I have a paid job to do I do not tell a client 1/2 hour before a shoot "Reschedule" its getting windy. Yes sand bags is something that should be taught. Dont leave things to chance. But mostly this video is good on everything else.
rmstudio 1 month ago
@rmstudio
Buy a real light? Whats a real light? A studio setup with plenty of power? Yes, I understand, if you are selling your services you can't afford to be leaving things to luck (ie weather) and you want to have the best gear you can afford to allow you to make the most of a shoot. My understanding is these videos are for beginners, not pros so you can hardly compare the two. Pocket flashes are great for starting, and you can even get great professional shots with them, its how
Dooobs 1 month ago
@Dooobs The thing is Pocket flashes are actually not really good for beginners to learn on if you really want to make the point of "This is a video for beginners". Actually pocket flashes are very expensive these days for the amount of power and usefulness you get out of them. Sure if you own "ONE" already and want to learn how to use I am all for it. But to go out and buy 2 or more is not wise. You learn more on a studio light and its the same amount of money but more bang for you buck.
rmstudio 1 month ago
@rmstudio use them. Recharge on batteries? I was talking about the flash cycle speed. I'm no professional, I am a beginner and I'm not saying otherwise. I just think you were being a bit cynical on the video. I don't want to get into an e-battle, I just think that the video had good information that someone new can take on board. We all start somewhere, and not everyone can afford fancy equipment. Using a pocket flash is a great start, and can be used even for professional shoots.
Dooobs 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hi Ben. We call the boom here in Portugal as Giraffe.
ptlofts 2 months ago
Comment removed
ptlofts 2 months ago
What brand of boom arm are you using? where can i get this?
lallaboy1 2 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
For studio / portrait photography do you recommend the continuous lighting or would you recommend to use speed lights through the same setup (3 point lighting setup)? what brand would you recommend ?
lallaboy1 2 months ago
illuminati photographer
shamsham1983 2 months ago
like your video bro lots of help im the same way i was born in the wrong period of time I like a lot of old school photography is that an sb nikon 600 speedlight you have set up .?
TheFunfinder86 3 months ago
@TheFunfinder86
It's an SB-800 as the 600 lacks a sync port
bigbs4 3 months ago
Thanks for sharing the tutorial. Good tips and beautiful images. The tutorial itself is a little hard to hear at times and really could do without the rock music backing track. I like rock music but it really is a distraction on here and doesn't help me hear the instruction. Other than that it's great, thanks again for sharing
woody1380 3 months ago
hahaha btsphototography at the start!
AmbitionPhotography 4 months ago
I just thought of Roseanne suddenly
KastroThaDon 4 months ago
Thanks Im a digital artist and im thinking of getting a canon 5d mark ii for portraits and to create my art! do you recommend a 5D?
Check out my work in my channelbif ya wanna ;)
thanks again SUBBED
scottcobain27 4 months ago
@scottcobain27 The 5D II is an amazing camera. As a photographer AND cinematographer, I can't say enough positive about them and their ability to perform in low light situations, especially with video.
bigbs4 4 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
omg i need all the help i can get. i just subscribed!
Sexysandiego 4 months ago
1:37 That light was awsome, I would have used it.
surferboy36O 4 months ago
i'm sure someone has said this already, but your aperture controls overall exposure.. not just your model..
NitsanPictures 5 months ago
EPIC, Just Epic
offspringy 5 months ago
I'm shooting a Nikon D300, but I don't have a remote trigger. I'm using the on-camera flash to fire the strobes, but I'm having issues with the resulting images: It appears there is a light fog over the subject. I tought it was the light flaring off my daughter's powder base, but I'm wondering if it's tied to using the on-camera flash as part of the lighting set-up.
Thoughts?
mcrawford29 5 months ago
@mcrawford29 Are you using Speedlights? If you are using Nikon SB-600, 800, 900, etc. you need to be using the Nikon CLS System to trigger your flashes. If you are close to your subject, the on camera flash will be contributing to the exposure and potentially causing the flare you are seeing. Make sure all your lights are covered properly as well meaning if you can see the flash head in your viewfinder, it can also cause flaring. Send me a link to the images.
bigbs4 5 months ago
@bigbs4 I found the CLS master control, and that helped but I'm still having some issues. It seems that my D300 is having a focus issue: I focus on the face, but it's just not sharp at all - but other parts of the body will be sharper. Hope I'm not having a camera malfunction. It's only a few months old.
Thoughts?
mcrawford29 5 months ago
@bigbs4 @bigbs4 I found the CLS master control, and that helped but I'm still having some issues. It seems that my D300 is having a focus issue: I focus on the face, but it's just not sharp at all - but other parts of the body will be sharper. Hope I'm not having a camera malfunction. It's only a few months old.
Thoughts?
mcrawford29 5 months ago in playlist More videos from bigbs4
@mcrawford29 Make sure you are on AF-S and not AF-C. Make sure you are at the minimal focal distance for the lens you are using. Make sure your sensor and the back glass of the lens is clean. Switch to spot focus and spor metering. If are unsure what these settings are, head out and pick of the "Digital Field Guide for The Nikon D-300"
ISBN # 978-0-470-26092-0
bigbs4 5 months ago
@bigbs4 I really appreciate the input. It's great to know there are folks out there willing to lend a hand.
mcrawford29 5 months ago
Hello. What brand are you using for the power pack? Thanks.
ptlofts 5 months ago
@ptlofts There is no power pack. This was done with all speedlights, mainly a Nikon SB-800 :)
bigbs4 5 months ago
@bigbs4 My bad. I guess I need to get some some sleep cos I thought that the sand bag hanging was a power pack. :)
ptlofts 5 months ago
Great video mate.
hojak88 5 months ago
I just love your videos bro. What is the brand of the boom stand you are using in this video? I'm going to get one for outdoor use.
bfgtranscherry 5 months ago
what kind of power are you shooting at? about 1/1 to 1/2?
proTest443 5 months ago
@proTest443 Started Out around 1/2 when the sun was still up. The last shots where the sun was past setting and commencing into twilight was around 1/32.
bigbs4 5 months ago
thanks for this video!!!
traktap 5 months ago in playlist More videos from bigbs4
I love your videos bro! I got an issue using the speedlights for strobist. How do you keep them to stay on if you're not pressing the trigger for a long period of time? Thanks.
mummyza 6 months ago
@mummyza If you speedlights are idle for an extended period of time, they will go in to a "stand by mode" to conserve battery power.
Go into the settings of the light and change it so it always stays on. Each model is different. Most of Nikon Speedlight Menus can be accessed by holding down the Select button for 3 seconds.
bigbs4 6 months ago
whats that trigger's mark and model ?
lewreq 6 months ago
@lewreq Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs
bigbs4 6 months ago
haha I first thought what the hack is gerg doing in this video :D
34TR3m 6 months ago
Hello my name is so good I yassine 20 years I am a fan, I hat to work with you I hope you agree
boykayassiin 6 months ago
post-process is really nice!
witusha 6 months ago
Hey my question is , are you using a Generator to Power Your Light?
mrrap4food 6 months ago
@mrrap4food My Nikon Flashes use batteries to power them. There is no need for a generator. The best batteries for flashes are any NimH (Nickel Metal-Hydride) with minimum rating of 1800mA.
bigbs4 6 months ago
Beutifull shots and thanks for the tutorial
starDEVIL666 6 months ago
Thanks for this easy-to-put-in-practice tutorial !
sbenhamida 6 months ago
this is awesome... i learned something new for a great result for outdoor photography
riadihendri 6 months ago
Hello, Great Photos , Understand the tutorial perfectly!
But i am limited to only two soft boxes, and a canon camera with no wireless capabilities whats so ever to control a speed light outside the hot shoe , Is it possible to be able to get the same effect and do all of what you did in the video with just two soft boxes? Say if you were shooting in an area similar to the one in the video ?
SaVapors22 6 months ago
cabrau.com
StudioCabrau, in Brazil
iLoved !!!
kbrl10 6 months ago
Awesome location !
powermichiel 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Wow!
Nice Work!! I love it!
josuedleiz 6 months ago
Wow!
Nice Work!! I love it!
josuedleiz 6 months ago
good stuff
mwelzy 7 months ago
Like a Boss!
offspringy 7 months ago
So the first time is you set to Shuttermode 250 to get the F ,then you set to manual and dial the number?and activate flash?
redhammer 7 months ago
@redhammer No, Shoot entirely in manual, take a metered reading of the ambient exposure using the camera's built in light meter, then adjust Aperture and Flash power to expose for the model as desired. I never use Aperture or Shutter Priority modes.
bigbs4 7 months ago
Hello can you tell me the name of the light stand u used here? i want to get that. thx
redhammer 7 months ago
@redhammer Any of the Manfrotto stands will work great. I am using Manfrotto 67B.
bigbs4 7 months ago
@bigbs4 great. how about the boom?any recommendation?thankyou very much. very enlighting!!
redhammer 7 months ago
Can you do a video on how to do a shoot in a rainy day?
bblove302 7 months ago
@bblove302 go out and shoot! :)
You need to cover your camera from water with a plastic(clear color is nice) bag. :)
The first thing that you should is to buy a lens hood that you only use if its a rainy day. :)
At the second part you make a hole(big like your lenshood) and with a strong clue you strap the plastic bag on the lens hood.
The last thing is to check it is real waterproof because dslr + water is not a nice mix. :)
b1tTutorials 7 months ago
where can i purchase the same light stand? and how do you get it to be working without ther plug in? ;)
-PCC
PEACHBANG 7 months ago
Where did you get the ice fishing sled? I have a beach shoot coming up and would love to have something like that to move my gear to and from!
cre8tivity06 7 months ago
What's the best lens for portrait photography -- I'm currently using Canon EF-S 50mm f1.8
I need a lens that aren't too expensive.
bblove302 7 months ago
@bblove302 Check out my Equip Tips Week 1 Episode on [FRAMED]
FramedShow . com
bigbs4 7 months ago
@bblove302 The 50mm 1.8 is not an EF-S lens, it's a, EF lens. It's a pretty good portrait lens on a crop body.
SuperSeyoe 7 months ago
@SuperSeyoe Oops...my bad it's EF. I'm thinking of getting the 85mm one but it's too expensive.
bblove302 7 months ago
@bblove302 The 85 is a go-to lens for portraits, the new model Nikon released is on my wish list. I have rented them in the past and used them on cropped and full framed bodies with amazing results.
bigbs4 7 months ago
@bigbs4 I will probably just rent it first -- but my problem is that I'm not sure which store in Toronto that rents out lenses.
bblove302 7 months ago
@bblove302 borrow lenses . com
bigbs4 7 months ago
@SuperSeyoe I agree. The 50mm f/1.8 is a great lens to step into the world of shallow depth of field and shooting in low-light situations. They cost around 130.00 USD and have amazing sharpness and minimal aberration or fringing under the proper conditions.
I agree with bblove302. On a crop sensor, it makes a great portrait lenses. However, be weary for close headshots and other closeups as it does as significant barrel distortion.
bigbs4 7 months ago
ISO also can be used to increase the ambient light...raise it to 800 or so.
Exupery1976 7 months ago
@Exupery1976 ISO/ASA will also affect your flash exposure as well as the ambient light. As a portrait photographer, I'd rather slow my shutter speed till the point I can no longer hand-hold the camera and then raise ISO as a last result as I want as little noise as possible in the images. Also if I were to bump up ISO, I would have to either stop down my aperture and turn down the power of my speed light to counter the ISO bump.
bigbs4 7 months ago
@bigbs4 That makes sense. You must be shooting in manual mode on your flashes. If one were to shoot with their flashes set to TTL the ISO trick I was talking about would work, I think. Like you mentioned though, it comes at the price of noise.
Exupery1976 7 months ago
@Exupery1976 I always shoot on manual mode both in camera and with my flashes. I consider TTL to be inconsistent as each click of the shutter meters a little differently and the images will not be the same. When I first started out, I shot with TTL, I use the Exposure Value Compensation feature (EV+/-) that allows us to compensate exposure within small margins. Your ISO trick does work when a big adjustment is needed. I appreciate your comments as there are a big number of TTL users out there
bigbs4 7 months ago
great job mister !
zdumbi 7 months ago
Great vid thanks
DJAlexAz 7 months ago
Hi Ben, nice video. Just wanted to make one minor correction – CTO stands for Color Temperature Orange as opposed to Continuous Tungsten Orange.
eikelben 7 months ago
@eikelben Thanks for the correction... And all this time I've been calling it the wrong thing. Thanks for stopping me look like an idiot! I appreciate it. I love sharing my knowledge and making these videos as I am student as much I am the teacher. Happy Shooting!
bigbs4 7 months ago
You are Awesome!
zousanai 7 months ago
Well.. what you said at the end... The aperture is also affecting the ambient light not just the shutter speed-- but I guess what you are trying to get across is not if you adjust the flash power in tandem with the aperture.
nice vid.
martinaee 8 months ago
Really nice video!
madarakis 8 months ago
great results!! loving the sweat headband! woohoo!
elpiegrandes 8 months ago
Its great that you know aperture controls flash power and shutter controls ambient, there are some douches out there who firmly believe aperture controls ambient and it irritates me when I hear it. Aperture controls intensity of a source. Some people just dont know, you on the other hand are the man!!! Good work!!!
KeijinShiho 8 months ago
thanks for the tips, really helpful.
DdamienBroderickK1 8 months ago
thanks a million times for the invaluable tips. others would take an hour just to give the tips and notes u did in this short video, however please accept my opinion that your execution i mean your photos are not nice,
MrThalji 8 months ago
There is an error in your logo : btsphotoTOgraphy
TheHivo 8 months ago
@TheHivo Your the first to notice this... LOL. I've created a new logo for all future videos. Nice eye :)
bigbs4 8 months ago
@bigbs4 Because the others just look the girl ! :D
TheHivo 8 months ago
Hi there . . . quick question dude what kind of boom arm are you using there ?? do you have a link to it ?? I recently bought an Ebay one , but as you can imagine it is not exactly what I was expecting , Thanks dude this video totally ROCK
LokoTripper 8 months ago
@LokoTripper Manfrotto 420B :)
bigbs4 8 months ago
@bigbs4
Thanks dude , like I said , you totally ROCK
LokoTripper 8 months ago
This was a great tut - thank you for the insights and the examples. How did you trigger the flash?
Best regards
Vesko
vruychev 9 months ago
@vruychev Radio Triggers are the way to go. I use the Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs. It is the same creators of the infamous Alien Bees lights. Other options are the Elinchrom Skyports, Radio Poppers, or Pocketwizards if you have the money to get them.
bigbs4 8 months ago
This is an excellent tutorial. Keep up the good work. I was wondering if you knew any good websites/books on posing or concept ideas? Thanks
Mr1982Banksy 9 months ago
@Mr1982Banksy
I don't have a posing book although there are some good ones out there. I usually look around at magazines and other work for inspiration. There are some basics as far as not locking knees, intertwining fingers, etc. that will help you out. I'd check out Amazon or Barnes & Noble and see what they have. Hell, I am curious myself
bigbs4 9 months ago
What lens did you use?
Was it prime lens?
MortallicA91 9 months ago
@MortallicA91
Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8 Its a good alternative to the 24-70mm f/2.8 when we don't have 1800USD to spend or a full frame sensor.
bigbs4 9 months ago
@MortallicA91 Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8 Its a good alternative to the 24-70mm f/2.8 when we don't have 1800USD to spend or a full frame sensor.
bigbs4 9 months ago
I just watched cause I saw pinups , good job man keep it up =) I also want a boom and also a reflective umbrella I'm currently using shoot through with regular light stands so I can't wait to hit the next galaxy of better gear haha
ChristiaanL14 10 months ago
@ChristiaanL14 Manfrotto 420B Convert Boom Stand. Works great for light weight speed lights and plastic modifiers. I'd also look at the new Photoflex Converitble Umbrellas for as the ribs are now flexible plastic so they don't break WHEN they blow over.
bigbs4 10 months ago
when you say expose for the background. do you mean.. shoot with no flash get the exposure right based on the sky, then trun flash on and adjust flash power to light the subject right?
stefaniemiller1101 10 months ago
@stefaniemiller1101
You got it. Get the ambient exposure dialed in to where you like it. Then set up your flash or other artificial light source and dial in that exposure by adjusting the light's power and your Aperture. Whenever I am shooting situations where I am using more than one light, I fire each flash one at a time to "see" what I am getting. I can then adjust independently and "sculpt" my lighting setup
bigbs4 10 months ago
this guy reminds me of greg LOL
trueefuschinick 10 months ago 6
@trueefuschinick Is that a fat joke?
dogmaticfool 9 months ago
nice sweatband.
Codyjphoto 10 months ago
"The Flash power and the Aperture controls the exposure of your model". That is actually not true.
Shutter Speed=Ambient Light. (keep below x-sync speed)
Flash Power, diffusor type(s) and Distance(!)=Model.
Aperture and ISO=Everything.
Lofote 10 months ago
@Lofote Your absolutely right However, the target audience for these videos is those that are just starting out in off camera lighting. I want to get them over that fear and frustration we've all felt when we started out. I want to simply introduce viewer to the notion that we are now dealing with 2 exposures. I want to get away from the 60 year old high school teacher's film curriculum that preaches the Inverse Square Law and to never go above sync speed.
bigbs4 10 months ago 6
G'day mate! I've just bought myself a 50cm by 50cm portable softbox, I'm a little worried it won't fit much more than the waist up in my portraits.. What do you reckon?
nSkinner86 10 months ago
@Santiagoyt18
Round ones. Actually I like the eneloop rechargeable batteries. They hold a charge forever!
kcgrandpa5 10 months ago
Nice video, I like the way your model dance between 2:07-2:11 xD On the last photo, ever tought of using a cto gel and set the withe balance to tungsten to see what it like, ive seen a shot on the strobist blog with this set up (if my memory dont fail me lol), it kind a give a dramatic effect and it turn the dark sky into deep blue.
NikonPhotographie 11 months ago
Really good stuff! Thanks have been wanting to start with fill in and this was straight forward and easy : )
Avecfort 11 months ago
Thank you. Great video. Can I ask you a question. I find that when my ambient light is low, I have to set the shutter very low and I get a lot of blur, even if I am using the flash. Also, I find if its not enough light, my auto focus does not work too good. Im working on a canon 20d. Thank you.
session036 11 months ago
@Santiagoyt18 All flashes regardless of what shoot or location need NiMH batteries (Nickel-Metal-Hydride) that are rated at 1800ma or higher. These are rechargeable and have no memory as well as give you the power and the quickest recycle times. Avoid alkaline at all costs.
bigbs4 11 months ago
Ben:
I just wanted to say thanks and compliment you on your approachable style. Your willingness to share is appreciated. I recommend to anyone watching that they re-watch a time or two. Lots of little tid-bits can get missed the first time through.
in2food 11 months ago
Beautiful setting and beautiful model, but why the charlie chaplin quick quick. I can't concentrate on your words, which I am sure are very instructive, when the picture is flashing around in a triple speed.
SnapHappyChappy 1 year ago
i have a quick question when u expose for the back ground and get a reading how can u know how to set the power of the flash to be correct expose ???
tattoosoul123 1 year ago
@tattoosoul123 trial and error...more u do it the more familiar u will to it...just like everything you do
soneeqboom 1 year ago
@tattoosoul123 after you expose for the background you need to expose for your subject to match your previous settings you got from your background. I was using my cameras light meter for two years with some pretty good results, but 2 years ago I got seconic light meter and nothing can beat the accuracy and speed on getting a perfect exposure all the time.
ilgas11 10 months ago
what kind of light stand did you use?
mummyza 1 year ago
@mummyza
Any Light Stand will do. While I love DIY Modifiers and Budget setups, I tend to not go cheap on light stands. All of mine are Manfrotto's and cost around $75USD
bigbs4 1 year ago
Great tutorial ty..
ibanezrg470 1 year ago
I researched and researched for boom arms but I just dont know what I'm looking for. What boom model is the one in the video?
Epsileon 1 year ago
Hi! And thanks for the helpful tutorial. I am just starting to explore speedlights. It still seems complicated to me what you have mentioned: speed controls the ambient light and aperture the model's exposure?
Does this mean that after getting the right combination of aperture+flash power when u manualy change the speed you will not change exposure on the model, but only exposure in the background? i.e. speed never affects exposure of the model?
Thanks for you great videos!
carlosfrancasilva 1 year ago
Thanks a lot from Turkey.
dansedermisiniz 1 year ago
Thank you for going to all the trouble to show how you set these up, even with lighting diagram - can't wait to get my first speedlight this week!!!
waynebw 1 year ago
what type of boom are you using? really love your tutorials by the way. thanks very much for making them.
phaedon 1 year ago
Hey man I was just wondering how u learned all of your techniques and knowledge?? Did you go to like a photography school??
Mozo901 1 year ago
@Mozo901
Lots and lots of reading, watching Youtube Videos, attending local Photography Meetups/ events, and most importantly, shooting as much as I can. I've never taken a class or collegiate course in photography whatsoever. My educational background is in a completely different subject.
Keep Reading, Asking, Watching, and Doing and you'll learn.
bigbs4 1 year ago 12
@bigbs4 hi could you please, recomend me any digital slr camara, i want to shoot a guy on a park, at 3 pm with sun, i heard it doesn't matter the pixels, but the lenses, i don't know anything about it, thank you
daniel
ecuatoriano1979 1 year ago
hey its really good i love to shoot with help of only speedlite.....can u tell me if the shutter speed is 1/250 then what shud b aperture? how to control background.-Deepak from india
deepakdmr 1 year ago
@deepakdmr
Aperture controls flash and subject exposure
Shutter Speed controls Background and Ambient Exposure
bigbs4 1 year ago
hey its really good i love to shoot with help of only speedlite.....can u tell me if the shutter speed is 1/250 then what shud b aperture? how to control background.-Deepak from india
deepakdmr 1 year ago
outfit were good, however your model pose were rubbish, even more seen like photographer not understand basic law of photography such some of stuff straight coming out from beind of subject. in my view really photo result r not equal to outfit he use.
edstillalive 1 year ago
Great tut! Love the info, and well delivered. Beautiful final images too. Thanks
ShaneIrwinPhoto 1 year ago
thank you!!!
yang99999 1 year ago
Great Tutorials in fairness, Have to now use my Speedlite on Manual Mode ! Last Shot on both Video are fabulous, Keep them coming
shaughz 1 year ago
Comment removed
shaughz 1 year ago
Hey really love your tutorials... I'm not too sure on the steps to take for exposures of the ambient light and the proper exposures for the subject. Thanks for understanding!
73barracuda1 1 year ago
thanks man! u inspire me
Soakingroom 1 year ago
Another great vid! Thanks. I
mjohn196 1 year ago
This was excellent . Thank you!
Mr1982Banksy 1 year ago
great tutorial! i learned a lot. thanks man. i like the illustrations very helpful.
jumpstop33 1 year ago
great tutorial! i learned a lot. thanks man.
jumpstop33 1 year ago
great tutorial, excellent photos, thanks for sharing!
blueaga 1 year ago
hey thanks for this, just so that I get this straight. You make the water/sky okey regarding to you F/iso and when you have that correct, all you do is turn on the flash?
TheyCallMeRome 1 year ago
@TheyCallMeRome
You want to expose for the ambient light and then use your flash to expose for the model. Remember Aperture controls the Flash's exposure and Shutter speed controls Ambient (the sky /background's) exposure. Whenever we introduce a flash or strobe, we now have 2 exposures.
bigbs4 1 year ago
@bigbs4
Wow I did not know that, very useful information and this would explain while using a strobe my backgrounds usually end up dark. But how far do you normally have to take your shutter speed down to make an effect?
xjoewhitex