i was thinking about making a stock from scratch for my winchester 121 do you think that baltic berch would be a good wood or just go straight walnut its my first one im making by hand
Thanks Bub! Just did a Kramer guitar, both body and neck, with this method. I did find it hard on my test pieces to get it to rub in real well so I splashed in a bit of mineral spirits, thinned it by maybe 15-20%. Worked a treat! I got really really thin coats and was able to rub each coat into one another. This thing is sooooo smooooth. :)
I have had good luck applying tru-oil with my bare finger. Guess that's how they did it back in the day... And between coats I don't like steel-wool I like fine (600) sand-paper, guess it's the autobody guy in me !
@67dodgepolara I happen to wet sand too with 1,000 and 2,000 grit sandpaper or 3,000 grit pad, I found it works way better than steel wool... especially if you got fine dust and little bumps , wet sanding gently, is only way to remove thoes little bumps , steel wool won't .
@MrJohnw93 No it's not a stupid question, to stain inside of stock would do nothing nobody sees the inside of stock when the barrel put back on and butt plate is put back on, but it's a good Idea to apply 1 or 2 coats of Tru-oil or tungoil or whatever your using to finish your gun to Inside of gunstock to "seal out" moisture from getting into stock. i do it on ever gun I restore, just a habit, in future I don't want see finish peeling off because Moisture got into the wood.
@dunbar1471 No, need to sand between stain, stain soaks into wood, only time i will sand stain if it's too dark for me I want to lighten it up a little bit, then I'll let the stock and stain dry very well fo about 48 hours, then lightly sand the wood to make stain a little lighter....I'm not a big fan of of stains, I use them, just not as much, I prefer my wood Natural....
@Jabshier1980 thank you very much between you and these videos i should have a nice looking stock although I do have another question what do I do if I don't use the boiling water, steam away method. Whats a good way to remove the old finish another way?
@dunbar1471 go hardware store ask for "paint and wood stripper" speed process up, and use "plastic wire brush" DON'T USE METAL WIRE BRUSH! let stripper work on old finish for about 10 to 15 minutes,it may take few tries with stripper, you'll get it, when you get all the old finish off, wipe gun stock down with mineral sprits, hang stock up for 24 hours to dry, then you can start sanding it smooth and apply stain or your new finish....
tru oil is great product! I used it to restore an old Winchester model 12 , also restored an Old Ithaca flue side by side...in middle of restoring an Ithaca Model 37 right now, I use both Tru-oil, and Formby Tung oil... I found it best to lay the last few coats of tungoil or tru-oil. with a Foam brush... streak free....for a very High gloss, carnauba wax car wax , and buff it several coats of wax to get a High Gloss,with little sweat and hard work, it can be waxed to look like a "wet look"
@MrJohnw93 go local Gun store, Or buy it on Ebay, mostly Gun stores or sporting outlets like Dick's or Dunhams or Gander Mountians , sell tru-oil... or you can simply order it from Ebay
I see J2bodydouble has posted here. Please be aware he is dangerously mentally ill and has tried to kill in the past. I fear he is on shooting videos on YouTube to try to buy rifles to kill me with, as he believes I am his persecutor. Please contact boatbrain@aol.com if you know of him buying weapons, ammo, etc. IF YOU SUPPLY HIM YOU BECOME LIABLE.
I used this process to refinish the stoc on my norinco SKS and it went from some plasticky half job to a very nice looking, well finished stock, thank you very much for the video
Thank you for these videos. I have four Swiss K 31s that I am deciding on what to do. Three are beech and one is walnut with lots of character. A beech stocked 1955 vintage looks so original I may just keep that as is but the others.....! Your video gave me lots of ideas! The walnut is a 1944 vintage and the other two beech stocked are 1941s. Gotta love the K 31s as they're so darn accurate.
I"m going to try to tackle this project. Cirtis Strip is better thant Krud Kutter I hear. What about Tung Oil instead of the True Oil or how about Linseed oil? Thanks
what did you mean by tack wiping between tru-oil finishing? And how much is all of these things for restoring my Mosin Nagant? Finally, am I jeopordizing my gun by not refinishing it, I keep it extremely clean.
Great set of videos! I followed this method with a 1943 Mosin Nagant I was refinishing. To anyone doing one of these I found that Citrus Stripper was a bit more effective than Krud Kutter. Also when staining the mosin stock (birchwood) I found that you'll need to do at least 2-3 coats of stain as it's a much harder wood and is pretty stubborn. Other than that, this method is PERFECT. Thanks a lot man!
you want fresh air while your breathing it , thats a great looking Job , and the video far better then the boyds video, which differeing from the directions is never a good idea, but maybe boyds doesnt want em loooking nicer then factory? but yes this guy has the idea many thin coats with plenty of drying time, three hours I think between coats is a minimum. maybe two hours under really good conditions?
Before applying more coasts of stain or clear I like to use a scotch bright pad instead of steel wool it seems like it works better for me but to each their own. If you do want to try it I believe we used the green pads.
@aLilBitOEverything cheese cloth. you get it at grocery store's and use it for keeping wild game so you soak your cheese cloth in vinager and what every else you like too keep the flys off. catch more flys with honey than vinager but you cacth even more with shit.
@aLilBitOEverything A tac cloth is like cheese cloth but with a sticky or tacky film to pick up dust and other dirt. tac cloths are found at most refinish stores. automotive paint stores always have them.
I am in the process of re-finishing a 1932 Mosin Nagant 91/30. It had that super crappy red shellac finish on it. I followed all the steps of cleaning and degreasing, dent removal, then the laborious task of sanding. Even though I cleaned it really well, it still had alot of oil or cosmoline impregnated in the wood.I was worried the stain wouldn't take, but it is looking good. Got the first coat of Tru-oil on and I'm stoked. Thanks for all the great videos. Keep 'em coming!
@TheKonaKidd im getting an aim surplus m44 and im going to end up doing this and does the cosmo down deep come out with excesive firing? Also did you do these videos step by step exact same for the mosin stock with the cosmo on it?
coated my stock in tru-oil over a few days and its shining more than i ever imagined-finished off by buffing with french polish...now thats some rifle-and thats some serious stock finisher-many thanks to 'birchward casey' - thats the best finisher ive ever seen-$16 well spent.......its like a mirror....great review my friend taught me a few things....happy shooting from the u.k
i put the tru-oil on with the meat/ball of my thumb; i can really smooth it into the grain doing it this way. when it gets tacky is when i know to move to the next section. guarantees you'll put on a light coating. it's more labor but the results are better. 7 coats minimum, then i see if it's where i want it. just did a mossberg with 10 coats. last oil application is on the unexposed wood with a finger to seal/waterproof the wood. 2 days min. to cure before i reassemble. i wax aft a wk
If there is still remaining oil in the wood before applying the truoil, will that adversely affect it. I'm still getting oil seeping out of my stock (old m96 stock) after stripping and sanding.
If there is still remaining oil in the wood before applying the truoil, will that adversely affect it. I'm still getting oil seeping out of my stock (old m96 stock) after stripping and sanding.
how much did all of this realy cost in the end because Im tight on cash right now but I just got a rifle from my grand dad and it hasn't ever been refinished and its rusted but I just want to make it look a little bit better
Chad you can thin the Tru Oil slightly with mineral spirits, if the bottle has been sitting for a while. Thinning the Tru Oil won't change the actual color of the finish.
Just decided to do this today and your videos helped out alot with getting my old mosin nagant ready to stain. Thanks for all the help your vids gave me and your mauser looks pretty damn good :)
One note you might consider: put your true oil into a small disposable container to dip from and immediately replace the cap on the bottle. If this is not done there will be a crust form on the inside of the bottle on wet surfaces and the surface of the tru oil itself and then the next time you use it there will be particles in your tru oil of cured oil that will make it harder to achieve the desired finish. It makes life much easier on you.
I actually use a product called Bloxygen, or bring the level up with glass beads in order to keep the air out of my oils. That bottle of TruOil happened to be neglected...woops. Useful info for the YouTube masses though, I didn't think to mention it, thank you ;)
im refinishing a russian mosin nagant and i was wondering how much tru oil you ended up using on your stock. im trying to figure out what size bottle i should use.
Sorry I didn't specify. The small 3oz bottle will do. If you buy a larger bottle, put some glass beads or marbles in the bottle after opening to bring the liquid up to the rim of the bottle. This keeps the amount of oxygen in the sealed bottle to a minimum, and prolongs its shelf life.
Very useful tutorial, I learned from you and de-waxed, steel-wooled and Tru-Oiled TWO bass guitar fretboards of mine to GREAT results! I'm totally happy! Unluckily I'm still a n00b at making videos so I'm not uploading it for now :-( in case I'll let you know
great series of vids!!....i'm doing this to a guitar (81 firebrand Gibson SG, in case anyone cared) and i wasn't sure i was doin' everything right, since i have never done anything like this before, but these videos really helped fill in the blanks, thanks, man!
The Tru-Oil wipe-on varnish and its matching Sealer-Filler have been used for years to finish hardwood gun stocks so its properties and application process are well known. Even though it is not as protective and durable as a lacquer finish it produces a hard, thin and flexible finish that has no detrimental effect on the tone of the instrument.
I have used Pledge for years on both solid body and acoustic guitars and have noticed no difference in tone whatsoever. This is from sampling new guitars against mine.
i made a test on a mossin stock,i just used striper,took off with mineral spirit and , do the precess again an again, then, used the steam iron technique to fix the dents ,, and then sand paper ,first 100, then till 300 or some,to a desired be ready to stain,,then when it was ready i clean it with mineral spirit , i put pre-stain, then the stain to a desired look,,then used steel wool,, the finest,,clean it with the mineral spirit and put the tru -oil,, wait to dry, and repeat the process ,,,
Hello, i just purchased a SA M1A rifle and the stock is very soft, and it has small "pits in the grain" (as wood has naturally) and was wondering can i put this truoil right over the finish it has now? and what exactly does truoil do? thanks!
I thought I had already replied to this, but oh well. Here goes again: You can put Tru-Oil right over the finish of an M1A, however a 1/3 mix or light Tung Oil finish would be more fitting for your rifle. Tru-Oil is an oil/varnish mix that provides a waterproof and durable finish to wood. It builds well with multiple coats, and can be cut with #0000 steel wool for a satin finish, or polished to a high gloss. It's more of a modern finish that some would say is not suitable for certain firearms.
Sure you can, but it would be better if you cleaned the stock really well first. The oil actually fills the pores and hardens making it more durable. I did the same thing with my M1A1.
Awesome video! It's good to see how this thing is shaping up.
I came looking for Tru-oil vids, mainly to see what people had done with it as a guitar finish - but this has been interesting to see. I don't think the wood minds!
Quick question, I have sanded down my stock today after waiting about 36 hours for it to dry after removing the old finish with mineral spirits. How many coats of pre-stain should I give it and how long should I wait in between coats of pre-stain before going to the actaully stain that I selected, how many coats and time in between coats should I give for the actual wood stain color I choose, its a
m91/30. I would appreciate a response, thanks in advance.
This is Chad. Just one coat of Pre Stain Conditioner will be fine. You'll want to wait 24 hours before applying stain, and the amount of stain coats depends on how dark you want the stock. If you're happy with the color after one coat, leave it. If not add another, etc. You can recoat stain after 15-30 minutes, but you should let it dry 24 hours before applying the final finish.
a word of advice. dont ever, ever apply true oil in cold weather . if it gets down to to like 50 degrees or colder the true oil wont adhere and itll turn yellow and just chip off. trust me.
boys boys boys, dang that's some fine work, looking great already. It's getting that rich, deep, reflective look, without the cheesy over glossyness. Very nicely done, bring on the next video! great series!
I havent decided yet, but this rifle may end up being offered for sale as a "donation" for this youtube channel to fund future projects. I don't know yet...
The cat would be around the Maus-er :P
latviandude 1 week ago 3
i was thinking about making a stock from scratch for my winchester 121 do you think that baltic berch would be a good wood or just go straight walnut its my first one im making by hand
SaVAg3xMInD308 1 month ago
do you sand in between the minwax finish coats?
dunbar1471 1 month ago
Do you ever sand in between coats of the minwax finish?
dunbar1471 1 month ago
did i here boomhower?
dracktwins 1 month ago
Thanks Bub! Just did a Kramer guitar, both body and neck, with this method. I did find it hard on my test pieces to get it to rub in real well so I splashed in a bit of mineral spirits, thinned it by maybe 15-20%. Worked a treat! I got really really thin coats and was able to rub each coat into one another. This thing is sooooo smooooth. :)
bedofrazorsqwerty 1 month ago
Comment removed
TheYankeesniper 1 month ago
I have had good luck applying tru-oil with my bare finger. Guess that's how they did it back in the day... And between coats I don't like steel-wool I like fine (600) sand-paper, guess it's the autobody guy in me !
67dodgepolara 2 months ago
@67dodgepolara I happen to wet sand too with 1,000 and 2,000 grit sandpaper or 3,000 grit pad, I found it works way better than steel wool... especially if you got fine dust and little bumps , wet sanding gently, is only way to remove thoes little bumps , steel wool won't .
Jabshier1980 1 month ago
so the tru-oil is the final thing you add, no wax or anything like that? You just apply all the coats of oil and its good?
440charger2 2 months ago
you're cat is obese as fuck lmfao!
KyleIsKoolerThanYou 2 months ago
This may sound like a stupid question, but do you bother staining the inside of the stock? Just finished taking off the old finish of my stock today
MrJohnw93 2 months ago
@MrJohnw93 No it's not a stupid question, to stain inside of stock would do nothing nobody sees the inside of stock when the barrel put back on and butt plate is put back on, but it's a good Idea to apply 1 or 2 coats of Tru-oil or tungoil or whatever your using to finish your gun to Inside of gunstock to "seal out" moisture from getting into stock. i do it on ever gun I restore, just a habit, in future I don't want see finish peeling off because Moisture got into the wood.
Jabshier1980 2 months ago
@Jabshier1980 Thanks for the reply! I was curious about whether or not that was important, most videos fail to mention it
MrJohnw93 1 month ago
@Jabshier1980 hi you sound like a good person to ask. do you sand in between coats of the stain?
dunbar1471 1 month ago
@dunbar1471 No, need to sand between stain, stain soaks into wood, only time i will sand stain if it's too dark for me I want to lighten it up a little bit, then I'll let the stock and stain dry very well fo about 48 hours, then lightly sand the wood to make stain a little lighter....I'm not a big fan of of stains, I use them, just not as much, I prefer my wood Natural....
Jabshier1980 1 month ago
@Jabshier1980 thank you very much between you and these videos i should have a nice looking stock although I do have another question what do I do if I don't use the boiling water, steam away method. Whats a good way to remove the old finish another way?
dunbar1471 1 month ago
@dunbar1471 go hardware store ask for "paint and wood stripper" speed process up, and use "plastic wire brush" DON'T USE METAL WIRE BRUSH! let stripper work on old finish for about 10 to 15 minutes,it may take few tries with stripper, you'll get it, when you get all the old finish off, wipe gun stock down with mineral sprits, hang stock up for 24 hours to dry, then you can start sanding it smooth and apply stain or your new finish....
Jabshier1980 1 month ago
tru oil is great product! I used it to restore an old Winchester model 12 , also restored an Old Ithaca flue side by side...in middle of restoring an Ithaca Model 37 right now, I use both Tru-oil, and Formby Tung oil... I found it best to lay the last few coats of tungoil or tru-oil. with a Foam brush... streak free....for a very High gloss, carnauba wax car wax , and buff it several coats of wax to get a High Gloss,with little sweat and hard work, it can be waxed to look like a "wet look"
Jabshier1980 2 months ago
@Jabshier1980 Where do you get your tru-oil? I couldn't find it at home depot
MrJohnw93 2 months ago
@MrJohnw93 go local Gun store, Or buy it on Ebay, mostly Gun stores or sporting outlets like Dick's or Dunhams or Gander Mountians , sell tru-oil... or you can simply order it from Ebay
Jabshier1980 2 months ago
i think your cat likes refinishing guns
TheSuperspudnik 3 months ago
I see J2bodydouble has posted here. Please be aware he is dangerously mentally ill and has tried to kill in the past. I fear he is on shooting videos on YouTube to try to buy rifles to kill me with, as he believes I am his persecutor. Please contact boatbrain@aol.com if you know of him buying weapons, ammo, etc. IF YOU SUPPLY HIM YOU BECOME LIABLE.
boatbrain1 3 months ago
@boatbrain1 still alive? i month later thought id check in
JUSTANOTHERDAY333333 1 month ago
I used this process to refinish the stoc on my norinco SKS and it went from some plasticky half job to a very nice looking, well finished stock, thank you very much for the video
Paaka70 3 months ago
why dont you like showing the wood grain ?
PhOeNiXpIoLe 3 months ago
Thank you for these videos. I have four Swiss K 31s that I am deciding on what to do. Three are beech and one is walnut with lots of character. A beech stocked 1955 vintage looks so original I may just keep that as is but the others.....! Your video gave me lots of ideas! The walnut is a 1944 vintage and the other two beech stocked are 1941s. Gotta love the K 31s as they're so darn accurate.
jaybirdjtt 3 months ago in playlist More videos from Iraqveteran8888
I"m going to try to tackle this project. Cirtis Strip is better thant Krud Kutter I hear. What about Tung Oil instead of the True Oil or how about Linseed oil? Thanks
spiritartman 4 months ago
what did you mean by tack wiping between tru-oil finishing? And how much is all of these things for restoring my Mosin Nagant? Finally, am I jeopordizing my gun by not refinishing it, I keep it extremely clean.
PhOeNiXpIoLe 5 months ago
Have you ever tried applying Tru-Oil with a cat?
jlewisda 5 months ago 5
This has been flagged as spam show
Should I put the tru oil on the "internal" part of the stock? The areas that all the metal touches.
gmetal85 5 months ago
Comment removed
gmetal85 5 months ago
ive been using boild linseed oil on a dark walnut stock.... i like the look of that tho
warftrat87 5 months ago
Great set of videos! I followed this method with a 1943 Mosin Nagant I was refinishing. To anyone doing one of these I found that Citrus Stripper was a bit more effective than Krud Kutter. Also when staining the mosin stock (birchwood) I found that you'll need to do at least 2-3 coats of stain as it's a much harder wood and is pretty stubborn. Other than that, this method is PERFECT. Thanks a lot man!
quicksilverusu 6 months ago
Do you stain and put finish inside of the stock as well?
FBTiger58 7 months ago
Does anyone sell a gun stock finishing kit that has the sealer and filler and anything else you might need all in one kit?
WinMOD42 7 months ago
you want fresh air while your breathing it , thats a great looking Job , and the video far better then the boyds video, which differeing from the directions is never a good idea, but maybe boyds doesnt want em loooking nicer then factory? but yes this guy has the idea many thin coats with plenty of drying time, three hours I think between coats is a minimum. maybe two hours under really good conditions?
j2bodydouble 7 months ago
Before applying more coasts of stain or clear I like to use a scotch bright pad instead of steel wool it seems like it works better for me but to each their own. If you do want to try it I believe we used the green pads.
hopper055 7 months ago
WTF? Where's the final portion of this series?
xRapidDavex 7 months ago
after the stain and because i love the gloss/shiny surface can i use polyurethane at this stage instead of the truoil?
MRTCrawford 11 months ago
I need to buy you guys some more steel wool.
Sessholvlaru 11 months ago
What is tack cloth?
aLilBitOEverything 11 months ago
@aLilBitOEverything cheese cloth. you get it at grocery store's and use it for keeping wild game so you soak your cheese cloth in vinager and what every else you like too keep the flys off. catch more flys with honey than vinager but you cacth even more with shit.
mrsuperterd 11 months ago
@aLilBitOEverything A tac cloth is like cheese cloth but with a sticky or tacky film to pick up dust and other dirt. tac cloths are found at most refinish stores. automotive paint stores always have them.
solutionnegative 11 months ago
@solutionnegative Yea i found some at walmart, and refinished my mosin nagant. It looks awesome. I will make a video this weekend.
aLilBitOEverything 11 months ago
I am in the process of re-finishing a 1932 Mosin Nagant 91/30. It had that super crappy red shellac finish on it. I followed all the steps of cleaning and degreasing, dent removal, then the laborious task of sanding. Even though I cleaned it really well, it still had alot of oil or cosmoline impregnated in the wood.I was worried the stain wouldn't take, but it is looking good. Got the first coat of Tru-oil on and I'm stoked. Thanks for all the great videos. Keep 'em coming!
TheKonaKidd 1 year ago
@TheKonaKidd im getting an aim surplus m44 and im going to end up doing this and does the cosmo down deep come out with excesive firing? Also did you do these videos step by step exact same for the mosin stock with the cosmo on it?
148scalemodeling 8 months ago
" it will make it look like poop" LOL
HackerHater2011 1 year ago
Someone got a text @ 0:25 lol
Brotherogre 1 year ago
Damn, that cat is FAT!
BADBRYZ 1 year ago
Excellent. I'll be starting my Yugo sks stock in a few days now. Thanks for a great set of vids!!
BADBRYZ 1 year ago
awesome videos man! thanks! I'm refinishing a model 520 Anschutz .22 and your videos have been very helpful.
MrMetalman13 1 year ago
coated my stock in tru-oil over a few days and its shining more than i ever imagined-finished off by buffing with french polish...now thats some rifle-and thats some serious stock finisher-many thanks to 'birchward casey' - thats the best finisher ive ever seen-$16 well spent.......its like a mirror....great review my friend taught me a few things....happy shooting from the u.k
we66y357 1 year ago
i put the tru-oil on with the meat/ball of my thumb; i can really smooth it into the grain doing it this way. when it gets tacky is when i know to move to the next section. guarantees you'll put on a light coating. it's more labor but the results are better. 7 coats minimum, then i see if it's where i want it. just did a mossberg with 10 coats. last oil application is on the unexposed wood with a finger to seal/waterproof the wood. 2 days min. to cure before i reassemble. i wax aft a wk
winfieldracer 1 year ago
Man, that came out great! Very informative series. I'm thinking of doing this to my Mosin stock.
qwikslvr74 1 year ago
Good stuff here men, thank you. BTW, I love the way you say oil! :-)
FletchBZMMT 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
If there is still remaining oil in the wood before applying the truoil, will that adversely affect it. I'm still getting oil seeping out of my stock (old m96 stock) after stripping and sanding.
Macinudo79 1 year ago
If there is still remaining oil in the wood before applying the truoil, will that adversely affect it. I'm still getting oil seeping out of my stock (old m96 stock) after stripping and sanding.
Macinudo79 1 year ago
Get a cloth hanger..man...Why so fancy just to hang it up???
CharlieDoan 1 year ago
My cat likes to help me too. But he sheds all over my stuff which is annoying.
Jrhoney 1 year ago
great video...and the cat is cool too.
pliedas 1 year ago
does tung oil work just as good as tru oil?
LedZeppelinXV 1 year ago
great stuff Iraqveteran...thanks very much!...will the stell wool take down the cheesecloth fibers if they stick a little?
nascarlurg 1 year ago
great stuff Iraqveteran...thanks very much!
nascarlurg 1 year ago
how much did all of this realy cost in the end because Im tight on cash right now but I just got a rifle from my grand dad and it hasn't ever been refinished and its rusted but I just want to make it look a little bit better
DeathRock96 1 year ago
Chad you can thin the Tru Oil slightly with mineral spirits, if the bottle has been sitting for a while. Thinning the Tru Oil won't change the actual color of the finish.
Sanjuro82 1 year ago
wow that looks beautiful
Zeppelinfaktor 1 year ago
I accidentally put tru oil on 1st i put 2 coats can i still put the walnut stain
hunt56a 1 year ago
the name of the cat???
Mcmuesly 1 year ago
@Mcmuesly Nosy.
soloban81 1 year ago
Just decided to do this today and your videos helped out alot with getting my old mosin nagant ready to stain. Thanks for all the help your vids gave me and your mauser looks pretty damn good :)
reaperpaintball08 1 year ago
so this is the guy who was the mold for those gi joe action figures.
nosloppyagape 1 year ago
Dang sure make me miss the south! good food, guns,....God, and good people...not only are you guys talented with guns you pick too.
Buddymack917 1 year ago
Great video. Very informative. I'm using this technique on an ukulele I just built and your video was very helpful.
CulpRJ 1 year ago 8
@CulpRJ Awesome! I play mostly guitar, but I can play banjo and mandolin fairly decent. Never touched a Uke though.
Iraqveteran8888 1 year ago 7
What kind of solvent do I need to get Tru Oil off please?
Jes437 1 year ago
@Jes437 Mineral Spirits
Sanjuro82 1 year ago
This is a 1888 gewher stock?
eyegoldeneye 2 years ago
No Spanish 1918 small ring.
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
One note you might consider: put your true oil into a small disposable container to dip from and immediately replace the cap on the bottle. If this is not done there will be a crust form on the inside of the bottle on wet surfaces and the surface of the tru oil itself and then the next time you use it there will be particles in your tru oil of cured oil that will make it harder to achieve the desired finish. It makes life much easier on you.
docdevin1 2 years ago 5
Food for thought...thanks for sharing
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
@docdevin1
I actually use a product called Bloxygen, or bring the level up with glass beads in order to keep the air out of my oils. That bottle of TruOil happened to be neglected...woops. Useful info for the YouTube masses though, I didn't think to mention it, thank you ;)
bootsytakes6 2 years ago
im refinishing a russian mosin nagant and i was wondering how much tru oil you ended up using on your stock. im trying to figure out what size bottle i should use.
Foreverette 2 years ago
@ Forevertte
One bottle will do at 2-4 stocks, depends on how you want them to look. I use 6-8 layers of Tru Oil and buff with #0000 steel wool to finish.
bootsytakes6 2 years ago
@bootsytakes6 the 3 oz or 8 oz?
Foreverette 2 years ago
@ Foreverette
Sorry I didn't specify. The small 3oz bottle will do. If you buy a larger bottle, put some glass beads or marbles in the bottle after opening to bring the liquid up to the rim of the bottle. This keeps the amount of oxygen in the sealed bottle to a minimum, and prolongs its shelf life.
bootsytakes6 2 years ago
Also, you can store the bottle turned upside down.
longmos 1 year ago
Very useful tutorial, I learned from you and de-waxed, steel-wooled and Tru-Oiled TWO bass guitar fretboards of mine to GREAT results! I'm totally happy! Unluckily I'm still a n00b at making videos so I'm not uploading it for now :-( in case I'll let you know
dalchimsky 2 years ago
Hello, I'm about to refinish two M44 stocks and barrels, which stain color do you think I should use? Thank you.
TheRFranks 2 years ago
great series of vids!!....i'm doing this to a guitar (81 firebrand Gibson SG, in case anyone cared) and i wasn't sure i was doin' everything right, since i have never done anything like this before, but these videos really helped fill in the blanks, thanks, man!
FahQposeurfag 2 years ago
Thats awesome! I'd love to see it when it's done. Send me a video or something.
I play a little guitar too, so that type of project interests me.
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
hey, I was also doing this to another gibson, and I was wondering if you can help
Does the tru oil itself stain the wood, or is it just a clear substance?
GibsonLesPaul1319 2 years ago
Be very careful with any oils on your guitar! Even using Pledge Furniture Polish can deaden the tone permanently! - From a fellow Gibson enthusiast
alphashifter2207 2 years ago
The Tru-Oil wipe-on varnish and its matching Sealer-Filler have been used for years to finish hardwood gun stocks so its properties and application process are well known. Even though it is not as protective and durable as a lacquer finish it produces a hard, thin and flexible finish that has no detrimental effect on the tone of the instrument.
FahQposeurfag 2 years ago
@alphashifter2207
I have used Pledge for years on both solid body and acoustic guitars and have noticed no difference in tone whatsoever. This is from sampling new guitars against mine.
Warpfield1 2 years ago
i made a test on a mossin stock,i just used striper,took off with mineral spirit and , do the precess again an again, then, used the steam iron technique to fix the dents ,, and then sand paper ,first 100, then till 300 or some,to a desired be ready to stain,,then when it was ready i clean it with mineral spirit , i put pre-stain, then the stain to a desired look,,then used steel wool,, the finest,,clean it with the mineral spirit and put the tru -oil,, wait to dry, and repeat the process ,,,
citationxbjfv 2 years ago
Hello, i just purchased a SA M1A rifle and the stock is very soft, and it has small "pits in the grain" (as wood has naturally) and was wondering can i put this truoil right over the finish it has now? and what exactly does truoil do? thanks!
elvemage00 2 years ago
I thought I had already replied to this, but oh well. Here goes again: You can put Tru-Oil right over the finish of an M1A, however a 1/3 mix or light Tung Oil finish would be more fitting for your rifle. Tru-Oil is an oil/varnish mix that provides a waterproof and durable finish to wood. It builds well with multiple coats, and can be cut with #0000 steel wool for a satin finish, or polished to a high gloss. It's more of a modern finish that some would say is not suitable for certain firearms.
bootsytakes6 2 years ago
Sure you can, but it would be better if you cleaned the stock really well first. The oil actually fills the pores and hardens making it more durable. I did the same thing with my M1A1.
USCOMBATDIVER 2 years ago
Thank you for this. I'm applying this technique on a guitar refininishing project.
prospectnyc 2 years ago
Sounds fun...Let me know how it turns out.
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
First of all, thanks for your service for our country. I was wondering if you have ever used this process on a laminate stock? Thank you.
theblackcrowe2003 2 years ago
Why yes you can...
If you look at my Mauser rifle review, you'll see a laminated K98k stock that Chad did this exact process on....Looks pretty dang good.
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
Awesome video! It's good to see how this thing is shaping up.
I came looking for Tru-oil vids, mainly to see what people had done with it as a guitar finish - but this has been interesting to see. I don't think the wood minds!
Thanks for putting this up.
gust0o 2 years ago
Thats interesting that you mention that...But you are right, wood is wood to a degree.
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
It's certainly touted as a decent luthier's trick, for achieving a very natural finish on an instrument.
Sand down, work to a fine grade - then apply the Tru-oil, as you've done here.
Coat, wire it down... then buff and polish with Beeswax.
Should give you a lovely natural finish, which is great for showing off if you've got some decent wood.
This is my first time attempting it, so I'll have to make my own video after seeing yours - you make it look easy!
gust0o 2 years ago
Sounds like you have the right idea. I'd love to see the results. Post a video response if it isn't too much trouble.
Thanks and glad you learned something from the videos...Thats the ultimate goal.
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
Quick question, I have sanded down my stock today after waiting about 36 hours for it to dry after removing the old finish with mineral spirits. How many coats of pre-stain should I give it and how long should I wait in between coats of pre-stain before going to the actaully stain that I selected, how many coats and time in between coats should I give for the actual wood stain color I choose, its a
m91/30. I would appreciate a response, thanks in advance.
SSSDiaz7 2 years ago
This is Chad. Just one coat of Pre Stain Conditioner will be fine. You'll want to wait 24 hours before applying stain, and the amount of stain coats depends on how dark you want the stock. If you're happy with the color after one coat, leave it. If not add another, etc. You can recoat stain after 15-30 minutes, but you should let it dry 24 hours before applying the final finish.
bootsytakes6 2 years ago
a word of advice. dont ever, ever apply true oil in cold weather . if it gets down to to like 50 degrees or colder the true oil wont adhere and itll turn yellow and just chip off. trust me.
bello787878 2 years ago
I'll have to mention that to Chad and see what he says. I don't think we have taken on a stock project in cold weather yet (at least below 50)
What about other oils?
Iraqveteran8888 2 years ago
the cat loves restoring firearms! lol
koreyh 2 years ago
man,, thanks,, please next video,,,,,thanks,,,guys,,,
citationxbjfv 3 years ago
The whole series is done. Go to my main page and go to the "firearms refinishing" playlist.
Iraqveteran8888 3 years ago
boys boys boys, dang that's some fine work, looking great already. It's getting that rich, deep, reflective look, without the cheesy over glossyness. Very nicely done, bring on the next video! great series!
falloutdude222 3 years ago
Thanks...He is almost done.
A range test will be in order for sure ASAP.
I havent decided yet, but this rifle may end up being offered for sale as a "donation" for this youtube channel to fund future projects. I don't know yet...
Iraqveteran8888 3 years ago
not after all the hard work?! noooo, keep it as long as you can, enjoy it.
falloutdude222 3 years ago
The "finished rifle" video is up!!!
Iraqveteran8888 3 years ago
Wow, that is looking just fantastic. I can't believe that's the same stock!
batbawls 3 years ago
Looking good already!
I've never used that kind of finish but I might sometime.
3OCALM1 3 years ago