Added: 4 years ago
From: mkeditor
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  • This guy here tailored a suit for Henry VIII .. and still has the purchase order.

  • I personally don't like to wear clothes that look borrowed. If you have the funds, feel free to buy a bespoke suit. If you are not as rich, maybe made-to-measure is the best you can afford. If neither is a choice for you, make time to find the suit that requires the least bit of alterations in order to fit you properly(the less you spend on alterations, the better it fits,obviously.) And above all, use a reputable tailor and have a firm idea of what you want before you make a purchase!

  • english suits are cool

  • i shop at walmart. $ 2.40 a shirt and $ 9 for a pair of jeans.

  • This video was wonderful. Thank you for sharing it.

  • "It is only the modern that becomes old fashioned." The argument that the traditional English lounge suit is stiff and antiquated may have some validity but what would one propose that be replaced with, capricious trends?

    I don't rebuke the craftsmanship of Italian tailors and indeed if one does desire a 'sexier' suit then perhaps they would be the more prudent choice?

  • Indeed I myself own suits from both 'schools', though admittedly, more in the 'English' style but then, is that not the point of customisation?

    It's probably fair to say that the prestige of the row is maintained by some and not all. It would be folly to just be content with any tailor because of his address, it's all so much more personal than that.

    Ultimately though, I see very few impeccably-dressed men today, at least here. People think rules are stringet, not tried-and-tested.

  • Been on SR and I must say, what an experience! I work as an salesman selling suits for men. Fabric made! There is huge difference between bespoke suits and fabric made ones! ppl say that SR must change, i think this is rubbish! Ppl love SR for what it is, traditions and first class tailoring! If you think SR must change, maybe you don't like the old gentleman's way.

  • For all of its quality Armani is a factory produced suit. It is a mass production product. In my honest opinion little different and hardly superior to Marks and Spencer.

    SR bespoke is superb handmade and is infinitely better.

  • Savile Row is so steeped in history - Henry Poole are credited with being the founder of "Savile Row" although there were tailors there long before then.

  • Nice British accent........

  • I think that Sedwell is starting to break from the traditions of SR more so than the others as he is employing techniques from the Italians. I believe it is the cultural difference between Britain and Italy that puts the Italians ahead. In there culture sensuality plays a huge role and so they have implemented sensuality in their tailoring.

  • Quote,- 'Modern men aren't interested in dead monarchs, especially the modern men who actually have sex lives & want to dress like it.'

    Paging Dr freud.............

  • Hey, don't hate the guys who have sex lives...lol.

  • If you really believe that, keep spending thousands of dollars on mass produced clothes. It will make Mr. Armani very happy.

  • I guess that reality doesn't do well here. Didn't mean to get in the way of your self-delusion. Now, I get it. This is the only way CERTAIN people, in a world where the sexy, smart, sensual, etc., make them feel inadequate, can feel (self-)important.

    Ah.

    Like it or not, every word I posted about SR is true. Snarky, effeminate responses from you "guys" won't change that. High rents aren't the only reason why tailors are leaving SR, or BARELY holding on to their leases.

  • Stephan, you are right about Armani he really does have wonderfull stuff, but an english suit is an english suit, that is quality that lasts and ofcourse its only for gentleman, not for everybody like yourself lol

  • I hate when people say quality suits "last longer." The endurance is not worth the much-higher cost. The real reason that custom is better is you can pick the fabric, and the clothes fit right. I hate when high-income people wear off-the-rack clothes.

  • With all do repect, I' m telling you this out of experience, Im not a wealthy guy, but everytime I bought something "normal" it would soon be ruined and if I kept buying non expensive stuff it would have costed me far more then buying expensive and quality material, why? All the stuff that were expensive I wear it even today and are exactly the same when I bought them, all the non expensive stuff got ruined, or decreased in quality, in other words, I aint that wealthy to buy cheap :D

  • @brianincleveland it does last longer because the garment is engineered not slapped together with glue I have bespoke suits that are 10 years old I get classic styles and they are still in fashion and they look great they hold up much better. Poole might be great but it does look a bit stuffy in there..

  • @mkeditor Well said!

  • You can walk into any Savile Row Tailors and have EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT MADE UP...why is it necessary to have some knob of a designer like Armani to make design decisions for you...Have your own ideas and get em made bespoke

  • @StephanAOTTO1 Dear chap

    you are obviously not meant to wear a bespoke suite, let alone from the wonderful tailors of Saville Row. You probable look awkward wearing one anyway. The clothes do not maketh the man after all.

  • @StephanAOTTO1: You appear to be missing the point. Fundamentally — it's a matter of horses for courses. If one wants something that is well made to a spec of one's choosing, with a generally excellent fit and finish, then find yourself a decent tailor as s/he should be able to give you what you'd like. If they can't then either your expectations are too high/unreasonable or they are a poor tailor.

  • @StephanAOTTO1: You must also bear in mind that going to a quintessentially English (British) tailor and asking their advice as any good cutter should be able to proffer, you will not necessarily hear what you would like to...Armani conversely is a designer—not a tailor—so has a completely different idea in mind. Armani is fast fashion (more suitable for women than the chap). Nonetheless, his suits are essentially made with Italian cuts, which suit very few whom aren't Mediterranean.

  • @StephanAOTTO1: That is to say—not the right complexion or body shape. What Armani is, is recognisable. This is the crux of the Armani-biscuit. Fashion is about recognition, quick turnover and turnaround of style and form. Good tailoring is about longevity. This I'm afraid to say, doesn't earn you brownie points with 'trendies' because they will not know the name; but you will look damn good whatever your proportions are.

  • I find very often in life people dis what they have no experience of, all I promise you guy's is once you've tried it you'll beg, steal or borrow the dough for your next one and you'll never go back to off the peg.

    Still in doubt? check out my man Toms blog just google 'English cut'

    I warn you tho it does become addictive...

    And of course having eyes follow you whereever you are is quite a buzz.Good luck John

  • 1.I'd appreciate it if you'd respond to my comments directly if you're going to dispute them, not that I have a problem with that.

    2.I have much experience with A&S, as my late grandfather had several suits made there, and the 'handwork' looked as if it were made by monkeys-on a bad day. Tried it.

    Moved on. Found something much better in Paris, Rome & Florence.

  • I totally agree. I tried custom clothes in Bangkok, and it was so wonderful, I became addicted and bought lots of fabrics at JoAnn Fabrics in the U.S. (where I could spend a lot of time shopping and not feel rushed) and took them over there to have all kinds of shirts, etc. made (flannel, everything). You can be very picky and creative with the fabrics, and get made exactly what you want. I always get compliments on my blue denim jacket (with zipper on the front).

  • The mental leap being if you want the very best this where you go and not whether long dead peoples lives are relevant to the modern world. As for tailors refusing to alter garments to customers liking I've never heard of anything so ridiculous, once you've bought one you've got yourself a permanent alteration,pressing and dry cleaning service I wonder if the same can be said for Georgio?

  • I know quite a few current SR customers to whom this very situation has happened, and they're usually foreign clients, whose orders, as I said before, were given to JUNIOR cutters, which is a huge mistake, as most of SR's clients are foreign, and those clients are not willing to endure poor results. They're now going to French & Italian tailors & shirtmakers, with nary a complaint & unparalleled customer service.

    SR has to stop talking warrents & start talking service.

  • Warrants.

  • Not too sure about tailors making disparaging remarks about others in the industry unless asked specifically 'what do you think about this persons comments?' and remember kiddies it's all in the edit. As for Royal warrants etc it's just an indication of tradition and experience of clothing the most discerning people who've existed over the last couple centuries.

  • If the guys on Savile Row are making disparaging remarks about Armami, well they would be right. His suits are not of high quality. The true Savile Row houses are about tradition and quality. Armani is about mass producing junk and calling it great with a big price tag. He's no different than the pretenders you speak of on Savile Row. High prices and average work. BTW, I doubt the real tailors would slam the really good Italian makers.

  • Bit of a big debate going on there.....

    Well i just wondered does anyone know wheres this show has gone? Has it finished(i pray not).

    If someone could let me know then that would be great as i love it so much. Its so interesting to see how they run there shops. Being in retail it was just a great view to another side of the retail enviroment in exclusive shops....

    And its gone....anyone help

  • I like him and his son, Simon.

    They're a really refreshing departure from the prissy, pretentious men who occupy the world of fine menswear. That said, it's time for Savile Row to begin to move forward, focusing on the needs of the modern man instead of trading on relationships with dead monarchs, whose lives and styles are TOTALLY irrelevant today. SR's got a lot to offer, but if they don't modernize, they will, indeed, become the "great joke" that Giorgio Armani pegs them as being.

  • I doubt that anything 'Giorgio' has to say will impact on the most prestigious gentlemen's tailoring address in the world. Armanis come and Versaces go. They will always find an airhead clientele for their 'Kings New Clothes'. ("a snip at 6000 dollars, darling"). But I think you'll find things are run somewhat differently on Savile Row.

  • Armani probably doesn't care whether or not his words have "impact". His clothes do that for him. He's right about SR trading on old relationships, stilted formality, all the while, offering less than stellar craftsmanship, Huntsman, Sedwell & Poole, being amongst the exceptions in both cases.

    I find that there are just as many, if not more, airheads buying from SR than GA, all desperate to be a part of an Old Empire that died out eons ago, w/ no sense of their own 'style'.

    Next King, please.

  • This is how things are run on Savile Row: They claim to give you a garment of unequalled quality, but, deliver goods that look like they were sewn by dogs.

    They claim to be "true bespoke"(in-house), but farm their work to any # of odd little factories on the cheap, while charging clients ridiculous rates.

    They leave oversees orders to JUNIOR cutters, producing poorer results.

    When poor results are noted by clients, some REFUSE to make it right.

    This applies to many SR houses.

  • Thinking about it, I agree more. I guess that droning about Royal Warrants ("We made this cloak for Brian Boru in 1014 just before he fought the Vikings near Dublin and this codpiece for Queen Bertha of Flanders in 1409") is somewhat ridiculous. On exiting A&S all those years ago, I was asked to be "confidential about my clothing arrangements". Quite a compliment for a nobody, three grand out of pocket. I yet nurture hopes that I am wanted by MI-5.

  • I don't have enough information to counter your argument, so I'll defer. Had a couple of bespoke suits made years back by Anderson and Sheppard. (I'm certainly not rich - I just wanted to try). The suits were fine. If what you say is true regarding standards on SF these days, then that is pretty sad.

  • The king of "euro trash, Armani" slamimg Savile Row. What a joke. I know someone who just paid $5000 for hiss mass produced garbage. Your right, SOME of the houses on Savile Row do farm out their products, but Poole isn't one of them. Botang sp? is the one posers on the Row. He wouldn't know bespoke if it bit him on the ass....

  • I already stated that Poole, Huntsman & Sedwell were the exceptions to the demise of fully in-house SR bespoke.

    Armani has every right to state his opinion.

    He's not requesting anyone's permission to speak his mind, as so many on the Row make nothing but disparaging comments about Italian workmanship, etc., which, btw, is usually better than SR's.

    I've heard of A&S tailors swooning over T&G Caraceni's work.

    I have no interest in Mr. Boateng, either.

  • Okay?

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