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  • You should consider how you are going to get the wires to the speakers before doing any gluing! If you don't, then I guess you have to sling the wires up and down and will be unable to secure them. Might be ok, but I would want to predrill the panels, or cut a notch along the back wall, and secure the wires. And if you use fill, you would want to do that before you glue that last side panel in place.

    Try to keep the edges as flush as you can to minimize sanding.

  • Nice job.

    Yes, it is necessary to screw after gluing, because this glue must cure under pressure. With screws, you don't need to keep joints clamped while glue cures.

    It's not necessary rabbet/dado joints in the baffle. The glue and screws are enough.

    The only problem I see is the excess of glue flowing out of joints.

    That may cause problems in the finish process, and the sander isn't able to fix that..

  • Nice job. Well done! Thank you.

  • To bluesharp2-

    You don't need to know his drill & screw size, it depends on what you use for screws, that tells what drill to use. If he uses 1-1/2, there's no law you can't use 2" torx drive vs retarded phillips drive.

  • Please,write the sizes of each panel.

  • I build speaker cabinets all day and I am shocked to not see a rabbet/dado joint used for the baffle here. Also screwing the joint after gluing makes no sense as someone already said. But thats okay as I think this guy is a good representation of the average user that buys the product.

  • Well, he's not Norm Abram, huh?

  • Hey, you didn't say what size drill bit to use to pre-drill the screw holes, you didn't say how deep to pre-drill the holes, and you didn't say what size and diameter finish screws to use. Nobody's going to be able to guess all that correctly.

  • If you're handy enough to build cabinets like these you should be able to figure out that stuff on your own. It's not that difficult.

  • can you built a home bandpass sub?

  • I can SketchUp some bandpass, Ported & sealed...

  • MORE MORE!!!! build some stage wedges

  • Not sure why one would want to screw the joints "after" the joint has already cured. If the joint fails, the screws aren't doing much.

    My preferred method is to align panels in a jig or with bar clamps, pre-drill the holes for screws, lay down a bead of glue and then mate the pieces, and then screw the pieces. If the screw spacing is close enough, you can skip waiting for the joint to cure out before proceeding with the build. The screws maintain gluing pressure and panel alignment. hmm.

  • Nice video. Not sure why scres are even used. Biscuits would be better....

  • I'm not sure you can use biscuits in MDF. It may not have enough edge strength when the biscuit slot is cut, because there's no grain.

  • Because the screws add a great deal of torsional strength to the joints even after the glue has dried. You're just completely wrong. How strong can an MDF butt joint be otherwise? The glue just bonds to the surface, which can splinter right off. The screws are used because these people know what they're doing!

  • I agree w/ @mhgrabow. If you're going to all that trouble to have it CNC'd, why not take it to the next level and add biscuits. Trying to get a good 90-degree butt-joint is hard enough as is; biscuits *really* help w/ that.

    And as @mhgrabow and @toygasm4u already state, the purpose of screws is to function as a clamp till the glue cures. Gluing after the glue has cured doesn't seem to make a lot of sense.

    One may also consider using a bead of caulk on the interior joints, when possible.

  • Great video. Thanks for putting it up.

  • excellent vid. thank you for your time to record the whole process

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