hello I from mexico and I have a question in te minute 2:13 you put a planer knife before removing the excess why? sorry I not write very well I hop yuor understen thanks for any information great video
@elchuyitojr I put the plane iron in the line that I marked with my marking gauge. Then I slide the guide block up to the plane iron, remove the iron, and clamp the guide block in place. This ensures that the guide block is perfectly aligned with your marked line, so your chisel will cut exactly to that line. Hope that makes sense.
I love the use of the plane blade and the straight edge piece of wood that makes sure you are chiseling right up to the line, very good use of guides to make sure you get to the line and not past it and also so your chisel is guided straight up and down, I've got to remember this...:)....thank you. This may not be the fastest way to do hand cut dovetails but it is one of the most precise that I've seen and certainly the way that I would want to cut them. Thanks again....:)
I'm a beginner and want to make wooden keepsake boxes for my family and considered using a template tool but I don't believe you can space the pins and tails where you want them, and watchng your video, I can see that an important element that would be missing in the end product (no one would know of couse except me) is the care and attention to detail that was taken in making the box with hand tools. I'm definately going to try this method with my first box. Wish me luck! Great videos!
Thank you so much for making this video!! it could not be clearer!
I've always thought that I needed a special machine to do dovetails. Now I'm glad to know that I can make them by myself! Thanks a lot, you've made my day!
@perto75 One of the saws I use is a dovetail saw. It has a thick strip of metal along the top edge that keeps it rigid. All saws that have this extra piece are called backsaws. The other saw I use which has a frame is called a fret saw or jeweler's saw. These saws use a regular, plain-end scroll saw blade. You can also use a coping saw in place of this, but the blade is wider and thicker, so it's limiting if you want to make very thin dovetail pins.
It does look like you are not using a pairing chisel. I just you had done the video on 1/2 blind dovetail! I'm making a small shaker table and I've been practicing 1/2 blind for a few days now but they still look like *censure* :)
@strolgen I use Japanese chisels mostly. The ones I'm using in the video are not paring chisels, but they work great. Marc Spagnuolo (The Wood Whisperer) made an excellent video on half blind dovetails. Do a search on youtube for "half blind dovetails" and you should be able to find it. He posted it 3 months ago and it's episode 122.
When I said paring chisel I meant to say a chisel with an angle tip, I've been recommended to get one to reach the tight corner of waste area... but it looks like it's not necessary seeing you.
@Keith4594Vlogs that's a Veritas (Lee Valley) dovetail marker, but it's easy to make your from brass and/or wood. The block plane was set to take fine shavings—just enough to remove the protruding pins in a few passes.
@GetWoodworking Thanks! There are two tracks in the video, both by a group called The Irish Experience. The names of the tracks are: The Butterfly and Morrison's Jig.
@Gubazgu The handsaw is a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw; the jeweler's saw is a cheap one I picked up somewhere; the block plane is a low angle one from Lee Valley; the chisels are Japanese from the Woodcraft Store; the dovetail marker is from Lee Valley; and the 1.5" engineer's square is Starrett. Let me know if I missed any.
@24071980 I do use a marker, but you can calculate the ratio by laying two rulers on a flat surface at a right angle. Take your bevel gauge and lay the blade so it connects the 1" mark on one of the rulers to the 8" mark on the other ruler. Hope that makes sense.
buddy this is unbelievable..i'm in a program for general carpentry and we're doing dove tails and I was using what you did instead of the instructor who has been doing it for like fifty years..he looks at me and was impressed he even tried it~~!!!!
@elsapodoido The folded paper offsets the marking gauge a little bit, so the pins and tails will be slightly proud of the joint when it's glued up. That way, you have some material to plane away so the joint is flush with the sides of the box. If you don't cut the pins and tails a little long, it's possible that sometimes they are a little too short. When that happens, you have to plane the sides of the piece (and remove a lot more material) in order for the joint to be flush.
Excellent video! I'm trying to learn this technique to finish my workbench (one from FWW a few years ago that has handcut dovetails). The hardest part so far has been cutting along the line at the right angle for the tails. Any tricks for this, or is it just practice? I'm using a dozuki pull saw - do you think the Lie-Nielson is more managable? Also, what kind of coping saw are you using? Thanks!
Excellent video! I'm trying to learn this technique to finish my workbench (one from FWW a few years ago that has handcut dovetails). The hardest part so far has been cutting along the line at the right angle for the tails. Any tricks for this, or is it just practice? I'm using a dozuki pull saw - do you think the Lie-Nielson is more managable? Also, what kind of coping saw are you using? Thanks!
@femsh761 If you cut the tails first, the angle is not all that important, so if you don't cut right on the line, it's not big deal. Where you really have to be careful is when you cut the pins to match the angle of the tails. If your saw is continually listing to one side, then the teeth are set more aggressively on that side. You can lay your blade on a flat surface and lightly drag a sharpening stone along the teeth to reduce set. The coping saw is a cheapie--it's awful.
@femsh761 I've never used a Dozuki to cut dovetails, but lots of people do. My preference is western saws for no particular reason. I love L-N, but other saws work just as well.
that´s quite phenomenal :l one thing i dont get is how do you manage to saw so straight so fast and without eyeballing the blade from both sides of the board to be sure it follows the line. something you just eventually learn?
@vt9205 I did speed up the video. I'm not nearly as fast as it looks. But yes, with practice you do get faster and you do not need to look at both sides of the board when cutting. If you follow the marks you made on the endgrain and face, your saw will cut straight. There's no need to even mark the other side of the board (other than the depth of cut). You can do it! :o)
Beautiful result! :-) one thing, wouldn't it be prettier if you just pencil the line instead of scribing it? Of course you loose the clever reference groove to put your plane blade in when you pare out the waste wood, but i personally think that the end result would be a little more complete.. Guess that is personal taste :) But thank you for the video, now i just want to make dovetails on everything!
@PuddelUndercover I usually handplane all surfaces after glue up, so the lines disappear. Some people like to keep them, though, so it shows they cut them by hand. But I agree that it's a personal preference sort of thing. :o)
wow thank you so very much! i was always wanting to try dovetails but was worried that it would be really difficult your video has given me the confidence to have ago on my next project, this is gonna give the drawers in my future engineers cabinet that little bit of extra quality. keep up the good work.
@iamawelder Wow! Thanks for the compliment. I've been meaning to do another lettercarving video—one that shows how to do scrolly letters. I'm pretty good at chip carving. Anything in particular you're looking for?
Question : should I pay attention to the inner / outer side of the planks when making an dovetail assembly for a drawer of a box? I read somewhere that the wood was likely to contract towards one direction, but is it irrelevant on a small scale project?
@MultiMarou I would pay attention to grain orientation, even on a small project like this. If the endgrain shows that the board is flatsawn, then the dip in the arc should face the inside of the box. Wood bends away from the center of the tree, toward the bark, so by orienting your boards this way, the sides will bend inward at the top and bottom of each board. This locks the dovetails. Riftsawn and quartersawn boards are more stable and will not give you the same trouble as flatsawn boards.
You make it look so easy...But I suppose practice makes perfect : ) ..I did my first dovetail joints at college a few weeks back..I cant wait to start making thigs, but I have a long way to go yet! Thank you so much for this video, its very clever and I'm going to tell my tutor about it!! : )
Nice job. I do mine the same way, except I cheat a bit and use the Veritas magnetic dovetail guide and Japanese tenon saw. I don't cope out the waste, just chisel it out. The Veritas saddle square is a great little tool as well. I have a similar little square to the one you use. Also from Lee Valley (Veritas).
Great Video, Love it.... what are the Tune you have playing.... im just about to fry my first set of dove tails and your video is just the inspiration i needed....
Thanks, Captain Kirk. Glad it helped! The music is called The Butterfly, by The Irish Experience— a freebie on YouTube. I was not able to use the one I wanted, which was Bell Bottom Blues, by Derek & The Dominoes.
Hi Aronson--sorry, I don't remember where the little square is from. I've had it for about 10 years. It's only 1.5" and I've never seen another one as small. You can get 2" squares from Woodcraft, though. You can also get an adjustable frame fret saw, similar to the one I have, from Woodcraft. (I don't work for them, by the way). The fret saw I have is a cheapie and does not work very well. I bought it from some jeweler's website, but I don't recall the name.
Village Carpenter thank you for this videol . i am a real novice at woodworking and carpentry but am interested in learning more . video is easy to follow . Well done.
Between 2:30 and 2:45 you pare out the waste for the middle pins. Why didn't you pare the shoulders (for the end pins) ? Just curious if I'm missing something.
Great question. I sawed the end pieces to the line so no paring was necessary. If you don't saw to the line (which is fine) you'll need to do a little paring.
Hi Jordan, I'm not sure how wide they are exactly. I can't find where I put this corner, so I can't check it. I think I was using 3/4" boards, so maybe you can eyeball the width of the tails based on that. I pre-marked the endgrain only so I could mark it quickly for the video and keep things moving along. Typically, I'll put a little dot where I want the line to be drawn on the endgrain and then use the dt marker to lay it out.
There is no set size. It's whatever looks right, and that only comes with experience and technique. You mark your end grain to space off your tails and pins. The pin at the widest point should roughly be the same as your thickness for whatever you are dovetailing. Your have a half pin on either end, so play around with it.
Nicely done. NO words needed to explain. The best dovetail tutorial I have seen. Which dovetail saw is that? With a shine like that it must be a modern one.
The music is called The Butterfly, by The Irish Experience— a freebie on YouTube. I was not able to use the one I wanted, which was Bell Bottom Blues, by Derek & The Dominoes.
Its very frustrating seeing you produce them soo easily :s
Charrister 9 months ago
Very nice work my friend.
personNumber0123 11 months ago
hello I from mexico and I have a question in te minute 2:13 you put a planer knife before removing the excess why? sorry I not write very well I hop yuor understen thanks for any information great video
elchuyitojr 1 year ago
@elchuyitojr I put the plane iron in the line that I marked with my marking gauge. Then I slide the guide block up to the plane iron, remove the iron, and clamp the guide block in place. This ensures that the guide block is perfectly aligned with your marked line, so your chisel will cut exactly to that line. Hope that makes sense.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
work perfect.wonderfulll
zodiacoazul23 1 year ago
I love the use of the plane blade and the straight edge piece of wood that makes sure you are chiseling right up to the line, very good use of guides to make sure you get to the line and not past it and also so your chisel is guided straight up and down, I've got to remember this...:)....thank you. This may not be the fastest way to do hand cut dovetails but it is one of the most precise that I've seen and certainly the way that I would want to cut them. Thanks again....:)
garriv777 1 year ago
Great Video Thanks. Good music also but it would have been great if you also talked about the details of the techniques and the tools you are using.
Cheers
mathsplanet 1 year ago
Nice Dovetails!
liam2612larry1 1 year ago
I'm a beginner and want to make wooden keepsake boxes for my family and considered using a template tool but I don't believe you can space the pins and tails where you want them, and watchng your video, I can see that an important element that would be missing in the end product (no one would know of couse except me) is the care and attention to detail that was taken in making the box with hand tools. I'm definately going to try this method with my first box. Wish me luck! Great videos!
mondovila 1 year ago
@mondovila Good luck to you! :o)
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
are very bn carpenter I'm just learning
jirayaELSANNIN 1 year ago
It looks like an easy work....looks can be deceiving :D
MrOverdriver 1 year ago
Thank you so much for making this video!! it could not be clearer!
I've always thought that I needed a special machine to do dovetails. Now I'm glad to know that I can make them by myself! Thanks a lot, you've made my day!
thewmatthieu 1 year ago
thats a normal german "Schlits und zapfen" - interconnection, the already ever after dark age used becomes, since about 800 years.
TheDaldi8800 1 year ago
you make that look easy.
b0mccue 1 year ago
What do you call those saws? The one with thick blade and the one with very thin blade?
perto75 1 year ago
@perto75 One of the saws I use is a dovetail saw. It has a thick strip of metal along the top edge that keeps it rigid. All saws that have this extra piece are called backsaws. The other saw I use which has a frame is called a fret saw or jeweler's saw. These saws use a regular, plain-end scroll saw blade. You can also use a coping saw in place of this, but the blade is wider and thicker, so it's limiting if you want to make very thin dovetail pins.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
wich kind of saw u using? Thanks :)
MrYamahaRaptor700 1 year ago
@MrYamahaRaptor700 That's a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
niiice
duncers79 1 year ago
It does look like you are not using a pairing chisel. I just you had done the video on 1/2 blind dovetail! I'm making a small shaker table and I've been practicing 1/2 blind for a few days now but they still look like *censure* :)
strolgen 1 year ago
@strolgen I use Japanese chisels mostly. The ones I'm using in the video are not paring chisels, but they work great. Marc Spagnuolo (The Wood Whisperer) made an excellent video on half blind dovetails. Do a search on youtube for "half blind dovetails" and you should be able to find it. He posted it 3 months ago and it's episode 122.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
@VillageCarpenter Thanks, I've watched Marc's video awhile back.
When I said paring chisel I meant to say a chisel with an angle tip, I've been recommended to get one to reach the tight corner of waste area... but it looks like it's not necessary seeing you.
strolgen 1 year ago
@strolgen That's correct, I do not use chisels with angled cutting edges, but I can see where they would come in handy with half-blind dovetails.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
and what depth did u set the block plane
Keith4594Vlogs 1 year ago
where did u get the black guide block at the start 0.26
Keith4594Vlogs 1 year ago
@Keith4594Vlogs that's a Veritas (Lee Valley) dovetail marker, but it's easy to make your from brass and/or wood. The block plane was set to take fine shavings—just enough to remove the protruding pins in a few passes.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
Great video. Nice backing track too – who's music is that? Cheers...
GetWoodworking 1 year ago
@GetWoodworking Thanks! There are two tracks in the video, both by a group called The Irish Experience. The names of the tracks are: The Butterfly and Morrison's Jig.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
Great video. Nice backing track too – who's music is that? Cheers...
GetWoodworking 1 year ago
really enjoyed this video
fabiuh991 1 year ago
Excellent video...from a production point of view- i liked the speeded up motion and the celtic music...very fun to watch...
the carpentry technique was very informative, too...
Thanks!
artclemente 1 year ago
can you write down your tools name? specially hand planer :) great video!
Gubazgu 1 year ago
@Gubazgu The handsaw is a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw; the jeweler's saw is a cheap one I picked up somewhere; the block plane is a low angle one from Lee Valley; the chisels are Japanese from the Woodcraft Store; the dovetail marker is from Lee Valley; and the 1.5" engineer's square is Starrett. Let me know if I missed any.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
@VillageCarpenter
wow Lee Valley expensive tools... thank you sis. i hope you can make more videos...
Gubazgu 1 year ago
Great video!! Very tidy job. How do u caculate the 1:8 measurement If u don't have a marker?
24071980 1 year ago
@24071980 I do use a marker, but you can calculate the ratio by laying two rulers on a flat surface at a right angle. Take your bevel gauge and lay the blade so it connects the 1" mark on one of the rulers to the 8" mark on the other ruler. Hope that makes sense.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
this is unbelieveable! what song is this by the way?? I love this song? Does anybdoy know the artist?
michaelcooper8904 1 year ago
@michaelcooper8904 The two songs are: Morrison's Jig and The Butterfly, by the Irish Experience. Glad you liked the video!
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
buddy this is unbelievable..i'm in a program for general carpentry and we're doing dove tails and I was using what you did instead of the instructor who has been doing it for like fifty years..he looks at me and was impressed he even tried it~~!!!!
michaelcooper8904 1 year ago
@michaelcooper8904 That's awesome. :D (Now, make sure you go back and tell your instructor that your "buddy" is female. ; )
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
Obrigao pela resposta. Seus videos sao muito bons. Abraco do Brazil.
elsapodoido 1 year ago
very informative video - well done. Thanks :-)
jbonham78 1 year ago
this video answers a couple questions and issues i had. Thank you very much.
OttomanHongo 1 year ago
Ola, quando faz a marca com o mark-gauge utiliza uma lixa dobrada, por que isso. No mas muito bom o video. Felicidades.
elsapodoido 1 year ago
@elsapodoido The folded paper offsets the marking gauge a little bit, so the pins and tails will be slightly proud of the joint when it's glued up. That way, you have some material to plane away so the joint is flush with the sides of the box. If you don't cut the pins and tails a little long, it's possible that sometimes they are a little too short. When that happens, you have to plane the sides of the piece (and remove a lot more material) in order for the joint to be flush.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
Excellent video! I'm trying to learn this technique to finish my workbench (one from FWW a few years ago that has handcut dovetails). The hardest part so far has been cutting along the line at the right angle for the tails. Any tricks for this, or is it just practice? I'm using a dozuki pull saw - do you think the Lie-Nielson is more managable? Also, what kind of coping saw are you using? Thanks!
femsh761 1 year ago
Comment removed
femsh761 1 year ago
Excellent video! I'm trying to learn this technique to finish my workbench (one from FWW a few years ago that has handcut dovetails). The hardest part so far has been cutting along the line at the right angle for the tails. Any tricks for this, or is it just practice? I'm using a dozuki pull saw - do you think the Lie-Nielson is more managable? Also, what kind of coping saw are you using? Thanks!
femsh761 1 year ago
@femsh761 If you cut the tails first, the angle is not all that important, so if you don't cut right on the line, it's not big deal. Where you really have to be careful is when you cut the pins to match the angle of the tails. If your saw is continually listing to one side, then the teeth are set more aggressively on that side. You can lay your blade on a flat surface and lightly drag a sharpening stone along the teeth to reduce set. The coping saw is a cheapie--it's awful.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
@femsh761 I've never used a Dozuki to cut dovetails, but lots of people do. My preference is western saws for no particular reason. I love L-N, but other saws work just as well.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
that´s quite phenomenal :l one thing i dont get is how do you manage to saw so straight so fast and without eyeballing the blade from both sides of the board to be sure it follows the line. something you just eventually learn?
vt9205 1 year ago
@vt9205 I did speed up the video. I'm not nearly as fast as it looks. But yes, with practice you do get faster and you do not need to look at both sides of the board when cutting. If you follow the marks you made on the endgrain and face, your saw will cut straight. There's no need to even mark the other side of the board (other than the depth of cut). You can do it! :o)
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
Beautiful result! :-) one thing, wouldn't it be prettier if you just pencil the line instead of scribing it? Of course you loose the clever reference groove to put your plane blade in when you pare out the waste wood, but i personally think that the end result would be a little more complete.. Guess that is personal taste :) But thank you for the video, now i just want to make dovetails on everything!
PuddelUndercover 1 year ago
@PuddelUndercover I usually handplane all surfaces after glue up, so the lines disappear. Some people like to keep them, though, so it shows they cut them by hand. But I agree that it's a personal preference sort of thing. :o)
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
Are you making a box to hide your leprechaun?
bobdauber 1 year ago
wow thank you so very much! i was always wanting to try dovetails but was worried that it would be really difficult your video has given me the confidence to have ago on my next project, this is gonna give the drawers in my future engineers cabinet that little bit of extra quality. keep up the good work.
judgefatboy 1 year ago
wonderful to watch, educational and inspiring. Thanks.
ethomfactusest 1 year ago
The Butterfly, nice.
pantsmatants 1 year ago
Best I've seen! Superior to other videos. Expert craftsmanship, expert editing. Thank you. I now feel I'm ready to give handcut dovetails a try!
steinertx 1 year ago
Now don't get me wrong, Rob Cosman and John Bullar do nice work. However your dovetails just seems more..........professional. What else can you do?
iamawelder 1 year ago
@iamawelder Wow! Thanks for the compliment. I've been meaning to do another lettercarving video—one that shows how to do scrolly letters. I'm pretty good at chip carving. Anything in particular you're looking for?
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
Nice editing. Very clear and to the point without being too long.
paul6000000 1 year ago
Question : should I pay attention to the inner / outer side of the planks when making an dovetail assembly for a drawer of a box? I read somewhere that the wood was likely to contract towards one direction, but is it irrelevant on a small scale project?
Great video, thank you for posting it.
MultiMarou 1 year ago
@MultiMarou I would pay attention to grain orientation, even on a small project like this. If the endgrain shows that the board is flatsawn, then the dip in the arc should face the inside of the box. Wood bends away from the center of the tree, toward the bark, so by orienting your boards this way, the sides will bend inward at the top and bottom of each board. This locks the dovetails. Riftsawn and quartersawn boards are more stable and will not give you the same trouble as flatsawn boards.
VillageCarpenter 1 year ago
You make it look so easy...But I suppose practice makes perfect : ) ..I did my first dovetail joints at college a few weeks back..I cant wait to start making thigs, but I have a long way to go yet! Thank you so much for this video, its very clever and I'm going to tell my tutor about it!! : )
Fionabillie 2 years ago
I have more respect for these hand-cut dovetails than any machine cut dovetails.
ejs619 2 years ago
Nice job. I do mine the same way, except I cheat a bit and use the Veritas magnetic dovetail guide and Japanese tenon saw. I don't cope out the waste, just chisel it out. The Veritas saddle square is a great little tool as well. I have a similar little square to the one you use. Also from Lee Valley (Veritas).
mithrandir10001 2 years ago
Execelent Video.. It is just what I needed to try my first dovetail
CplKiller 2 years ago
Great video and thanks for sharing your skills with us!
MrKme1971 2 years ago
Great Video, Love it.... what are the Tune you have playing.... im just about to fry my first set of dove tails and your video is just the inspiration i needed....
Captankirk1701 2 years ago
Thanks, Captain Kirk. Glad it helped! The music is called The Butterfly, by The Irish Experience— a freebie on YouTube. I was not able to use the one I wanted, which was Bell Bottom Blues, by Derek & The Dominoes.
VillageCarpenter 2 years ago
thanks for the great video. Very easy to follow. I watched some others and they made it seem complicated.
I just bought some nice japanese pull-saws and I wanted to try my hand at some dovetails.
deirup510 2 years ago
I really found the video helpful. I am glad you sent me this link. 5 stars.
Thanks,
Brian Meeks
Aka Extremely Average
Ecocandle 2 years ago
i really like your technique with the blade from the plane to make your spare wood line up nicely. 'Very well done joints
Veloxmortis 2 years ago
Hi VC! Thanks again for the video - very easy to follow. Where did you get your jeweler's saw and small square. Both look very well made.
aronson 2 years ago
Hi Aronson--sorry, I don't remember where the little square is from. I've had it for about 10 years. It's only 1.5" and I've never seen another one as small. You can get 2" squares from Woodcraft, though. You can also get an adjustable frame fret saw, similar to the one I have, from Woodcraft. (I don't work for them, by the way). The fret saw I have is a cheapie and does not work very well. I bought it from some jeweler's website, but I don't recall the name.
VillageCarpenter 2 years ago
Comment removed
aronson 2 years ago
Village Carpenter thank you for this videol . i am a real novice at woodworking and carpentry but am interested in learning more . video is easy to follow . Well done.
jalbiie 2 years ago
Between 2:30 and 2:45 you pare out the waste for the middle pins. Why didn't you pare the shoulders (for the end pins) ? Just curious if I'm missing something.
dlanouette 2 years ago
Great question. I sawed the end pieces to the line so no paring was necessary. If you don't saw to the line (which is fine) you'll need to do a little paring.
VillageCarpenter 2 years ago
@VillageCarpenter - Thanks for the very nice video. The trick with the plane blade is great!
dlanouette 2 years ago
If you can't make a dovetail joint after this video you should take up gardening! Nice job-TM
tmackinator 2 years ago
good toolworks not cheap you must have been spending a lifetime to get them jajaja¡
great job thnaks a lot keep it up please¡¡
julioyaldonza 2 years ago
you learn somenthing everyday, exelent music too.
valeroso2000 2 years ago
you are a friekin dovetail ninja
mikestrohofer 2 years ago
you should make a lot more videos like this by the way. ; )
nellsmells1 2 years ago
really good video. very impressed.
nellsmells1 2 years ago
A guide block! Genius! Well done.
par5endos562 2 years ago
Hi, great video...one question though; how big did you make your tails? I noticed you marked the end grain prior to using the dovetail saddle marker.
jordan9594 2 years ago
Hi Jordan, I'm not sure how wide they are exactly. I can't find where I put this corner, so I can't check it. I think I was using 3/4" boards, so maybe you can eyeball the width of the tails based on that. I pre-marked the endgrain only so I could mark it quickly for the video and keep things moving along. Typically, I'll put a little dot where I want the line to be drawn on the endgrain and then use the dt marker to lay it out.
VillageCarpenter 2 years ago
There is no set size. It's whatever looks right, and that only comes with experience and technique. You mark your end grain to space off your tails and pins. The pin at the widest point should roughly be the same as your thickness for whatever you are dovetailing. Your have a half pin on either end, so play around with it.
bennysex 2 years ago
Well done. White pine?
A.
bentontool 2 years ago
Yes--that is pine I bought from the local big box store.
VillageCarpenter 2 years ago
Excellent craftsmanship and video production, 5 stars
pumkinvine 2 years ago
Nicely done. NO words needed to explain. The best dovetail tutorial I have seen. Which dovetail saw is that? With a shine like that it must be a modern one.
Ariceater 2 years ago
That is a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw. It's fantastic.
VillageCarpenter 2 years ago
Good job
garyscoggins 2 years ago
Nice vid. I like the music, too. What is that?
RepublicanTorture 2 years ago
The music is called The Butterfly, by The Irish Experience— a freebie on YouTube. I was not able to use the one I wanted, which was Bell Bottom Blues, by Derek & The Dominoes.
VillageCarpenter 2 years ago
do you use a video camera or still shots? Hard to tell?
bluef3 2 years ago
bluef3, I used a camcorder for the motion shots and a digital camera for the still shots.
VillageCarpenter 2 years ago
You did a good job! loved that you showed how you made it too.
CabinetMakersSupply 2 years ago