@dirtbikemechanic i know nothing of steel and heat yet, but i think you would best off look into how they temper a kukri, its a think choper of a blade.
@dirtbikemechanic That "machete" is called a "Kukri" I believe... It is traditionally used by the Gurkhas in Nepal where they similarly forge these blades from the rear leaf springs of trucks because of the steels strength.
Nice Video. I was wondering if you could answer a question for me? I'm also working on a bush knife right now (first one), It's .40" thick, and i'm not sure what kind of steel. I bought the steel almost 15 years ago. That being said, could you (or anyone else) tell me approximately how long it might take to get it up to proper temp for hardening?
@Ben762x51 It will only take a few minutes for hot coals to reach temperature if some air is forced on it. You will first see gasification, that is when the gas coming off the coals begins to burn. Then the coals will turn a white/orange color. Does not take long. When the metal is no longer magnetic is one way people know the temp. is right, some do it by sight. I'm not claiming to be an expert at this, I do it for a hobbie and learn more as I go. Please remember to be safe.
Ok cool. Thanks for the reply. I was also wondering do you need to use actual coal, or can you just use charcoal briquettes that you would use for grilling food? Sorry if it's a stupid question. lol My first time. Nice job on the knife by the way.
Thanks for the reply. I did a test run on a piece of steel that is about th same thickness as the knife i'm making, but was unsuccessful at getting it hot enough. The steel was almost 1/4" thick though. I was using homemade charcoal, and ended up running out of it. Are you using charcoal, or just coal in this video? Any idea where I could pick up some coal? I assume it would burn longer/hotter no? Thanks again, great video.
@roberto25721 Use any medium grade oil you can get. I Tempered the knife in the oven in order to toughen the metal, in other words, this makes it less brittle and more pliable without giving up strength.
@Avatar230594 No, oil fires are dangerous and must be smothered by blocking the oxygen with anything stable like salt, dirt or a metal lid. NEVER use water on an oil fire.
hey this is a pretty ingenious forge setup. with my forge i do blacksmithing and quenching. Basicly mine is a hole in the ground with bricks for insulation then i have a hair dryer flowing in air like yours. This would be a great portable forge you could just keep in the back of a truck or something. Nice video keep up the good work
@5Metalgod5 each metal is different so I couldn't say off hand. Usually old spring steels are 5160 and they are oil quench though some newer spring steels are air hardened or water hardened. It really depends on the exact metal type and the mfg's recommendations.
Man a little help. I'm from Chile and I'll soon be travelling to Patagonia. Because I'm a jack of all trades I want to make a pair of crampons out of a 50 liters stainless steel keg. Do you think that hardening technique could work? I mean for the spikes, the tips, or they may beome hard but breakable? Thank, and congrats for your useful videoclip. JM
@cupcakecooper If you do not harden the steel will not hold an edge and can even bend. The oil draws the heat from the blade quickly without cracking the steel. Quick reduction of heat hardens the blade.
@hunterdka Casue Steel gets its strength from the oil inside of the metal. When you heat it the oil is removed by adding it back in you get the strength back. There is more to it but that is just a crude explanation. I have heard WD-40 works better casue it is thinner and penetrates better. But I havent made a knife or anything close. This is just stuff I have read.
@fatboy30179 you cannot take anything out (well actually you can cause some carbon to escape, degenerating the steel) or put anything in the steel outside a steelworks. Its contents change crystalline structure with temperature, so you can anneal it (soften it for working), work on it, harden it and temper it (soften very slightly, enough for it to flex). WD-40 as a hardening coolant is a very bad idea, as it cannot cope with temperatures that high; you'd probably have flames a few yards high.
@hunterdka the trick is in cooling the steel quickly *and homogenously*, i.e., keeping the temperature differences along the blade in a very narrow range, so that you have the same amount of martensite (very hard form of crystalline structure that determines the steel's hardness) forming at any point on the edge. While water is a good, traditional coolant, it does not afford homogenous cooling as good as oil.
@nedge46 This is non-stainless. I made it from an old file. Most of my knives are stainless steel but, I do have some non-stainless. I keep them protected from rust by cleaning and waxing them after using (or use a light oil). Also, I recommend storing them outside of the sheath if they will be sitting for a while.
@CoolKillerClan Excellent input, I have to agree with you. For me, this is more about personal expression and exploration rather than hard science. Unfortunately, even I get caught up in the details at times. thanks for the input.
IT'S ALLLLL ABOUT TEMPERING PAL :) An art of it's own. I dont use power tools for the knifes I make. I also will not give someone a knife I made if it wont hack a 2x4 in half 3 times and still shave. For example.. I just made a big texas bowie by heat and hammer no power tools. Check out my channel, and click on finalvideo to see it from start to finish. I burned that video on a DVD for authenticity to go with the knife.
OOOps.. mistake. Ghost you temper using an oven ? BAD BAD BAD :)
Nahh some people like to temper with an oven. I temper with spine in coals. Watch the steel turn blue-bronze-straw. Depending on the knife steel getting the edge a particular color comes down to knowing that steel. For 5160 I let blue the spine, light straw the edge on first temper, air cool, second temper I light bronze the edge, air cool, third temper bronze the edge. Good n tempered.
The "ONE AND ONLY" thing I dont like about tempering in an oven.
Is first off the entire blade gets tempered. Depending on the steel. Put it in a vide and try to flex it, and it breaks, or bends and doesnt return to position. This is why I spring quench the blade, hand temper on coals, and you got flex, and edge holding, but it takes a little longer. I'm in texas.. so obviousy ghost here would have to freeze outside to do the same old school temper method LOL
I'm a beginner. What type of oil is that ? (Motor, cooking, some special type?)
Also, when making a knife from scrap metal, after the shaping, grinding sanding etc, is it necessary to heat and quench in oil. Would water cool it too fast? How long do you leave it in the quench solution? How many times do you heat and cool? Thank you.
@versatilechicken If you do not harden and temper the knife it will not keep it's edge well and will be more likely to rcieve damage like dents, scrapes and bends.
@Ghostkamo very cool, i really wanna get into making knives, but i need more knowledge about tempering and heat treating, as well as equipment, the blow dryer is a great idea. i'm not sure how i forgot that fire needs oxygen, lol whatever =]
@snuffying the oil is heated to that it will cool the steel more slowly to allow for higher ductility. you can use clean oil if you want... its just a good use for old motor oil though
After heating the steel above 727 (centigrad) here the steel has an austenitic structure, you quench it with water or oil to room temperature. This changes the microstructure to martensite. Martensitic structure is the hardest of steel microstructures which you can achieve, but sadly it is too brittle to be used effectively. Therefore after quenching, you have to temper it between 250-650 Centigrad something for an hour or two.This makes the steel gain some ductility.
After heating the steel above 727 (centigrad) here the steel has an austenitic structure, you quench it with water or oil to room temperature. This changes the microstructure to martensite. Martensitic structure is the hardest of steel microstructures which you can achieve, but sadly it is too brittle to be used effectively. Therefore after quenching, you have to temper it between 250-650 Centigrad something for an hour or two.This makes the steel gain some ductility.
Hi there Ghostkamo i like u channel alot and specially these 'knife making vids'. U got me at the point where i want to make a knife but i just can figure 1 thing out : do i need to do the hardening first or the tempering? I mean if i got my metal piece i saw it in shape first? harden it fist then temper it scharpen it? or even an other order? On youtube everyone does it different, what you do?
Hmmm, I get a lot of different opinions on that. I can tell you that I've seen videos of a guy cracking his blades in half using water. The proffesionals seem to use oil a lot.
Thanks, I am thinking about making some that I'll part with. I'm still in the learning process with finding out what works best so, the quality of the knives should improve soon.
Thanks, I posted a lot of details on what I did. I hope this encourages others to try a little project of some sort. There is a lot of satifaction in making something for a hobbie.
effective little forge you have there..once you lower the blade in the oil,, I would gently move it back and forth a bit to encourage cooler oil from the edges of the can to get to the blade to promote a more even hardening but it was a small knife and a big ole can of oil so it's probably more than fine,,gotta commend you on the profiling with the squared off guard area,,that looks like a lot of patient work in that knife..looking forwards to the handle vid..5* kamo!
Thanks, you're the second one to suggest moving the blade in the oil. I'll give it a try on the next knife. On the next knife I will not post details but will describe what process I did and show results.
The "cutting edge" blade length is 5 and 5/8 inches in long. The blade after handle is 5 and 6/8 inches long. The handle is a total of 5 and 1/4 inches, with the wood part being 4 and 1/8 inches.
This is a very non-typical knife that adresses simplicity, survival and covering some basic needs quickly by using minimal skills and tools. I will move on to more refined knives in the future.
Yeah, I get all kinds of different stories too when I started making knives...Look and see if you can find wayne goddards $50 knife shop...lots of great info in there...I know where to get it, just dont like to read...lol If you want it and cant find it let me know, and I can get it for ya and send it your way
I'm making a machete like the one in The Book of Eli. So it's 1/4in. thick, would i use basically the same method to temper it?
dirtbikemechanic 2 weeks ago
@dirtbikemechanic I don't do knives that large but, the same method should work. Be sure to wear protective clothing.
Ghostkamo 1 week ago
@dirtbikemechanic i know nothing of steel and heat yet, but i think you would best off look into how they temper a kukri, its a think choper of a blade.
porygon110 1 week ago
@dirtbikemechanic That "machete" is called a "Kukri" I believe... It is traditionally used by the Gurkhas in Nepal where they similarly forge these blades from the rear leaf springs of trucks because of the steels strength.
nickolusthegreek 3 days ago
Awesome vid. Is that a special steel or will mild steel work?
PK102260 3 weeks ago
@PK102260 That is hard steel that I softened before aI formed the knife. You can use annealed steel.
Ghostkamo 1 week ago
Do you have to quench in warm oil, or can it be water?
janken919 3 months ago
Nice Video. I was wondering if you could answer a question for me? I'm also working on a bush knife right now (first one), It's .40" thick, and i'm not sure what kind of steel. I bought the steel almost 15 years ago. That being said, could you (or anyone else) tell me approximately how long it might take to get it up to proper temp for hardening?
Ben762x51 4 months ago
@Ben762x51 It will only take a few minutes for hot coals to reach temperature if some air is forced on it. You will first see gasification, that is when the gas coming off the coals begins to burn. Then the coals will turn a white/orange color. Does not take long. When the metal is no longer magnetic is one way people know the temp. is right, some do it by sight. I'm not claiming to be an expert at this, I do it for a hobbie and learn more as I go. Please remember to be safe.
Ghostkamo 4 months ago
@Ghostkamo
Ok cool. Thanks for the reply. I was also wondering do you need to use actual coal, or can you just use charcoal briquettes that you would use for grilling food? Sorry if it's a stupid question. lol My first time. Nice job on the knife by the way.
Ben762x51 4 months ago
@Ghostkamo
Thanks for the reply. I did a test run on a piece of steel that is about th same thickness as the knife i'm making, but was unsuccessful at getting it hot enough. The steel was almost 1/4" thick though. I was using homemade charcoal, and ended up running out of it. Are you using charcoal, or just coal in this video? Any idea where I could pick up some coal? I assume it would burn longer/hotter no? Thanks again, great video.
Ben762x51 4 months ago
@Ben762x51 I get my coal from sifting ashes after a fire.
Ghostkamo 4 months ago
Comment removed
Looneydude2398 1 month ago
is there a reason why you don't harden the handle part of the knife ??
Ramble96 5 months ago
@Ramble96 there is no need to harden the tang, you should only harden the blade so it keeps its edge.
5Metalgod5 5 months ago
@5Metalgod5 thanks a lot for the information bro ; )
Ramble96 5 months ago
why did you bake the knife in the owen? ( my spelling sucks ) and could i use motor oil? or does it need to be some special type of oil?
roberto25721 5 months ago in playlist Fler videoklipp från Ghostkamo
@roberto25721 Use any medium grade oil you can get. I Tempered the knife in the oven in order to toughen the metal, in other words, this makes it less brittle and more pliable without giving up strength.
Ghostkamo 5 months ago
You have an oil fire. Does that just go out by itself?
Avatar230594 5 months ago
@Avatar230594 No, oil fires are dangerous and must be smothered by blocking the oxygen with anything stable like salt, dirt or a metal lid. NEVER use water on an oil fire.
Ghostkamo 5 months ago
hey this is a pretty ingenious forge setup. with my forge i do blacksmithing and quenching. Basicly mine is a hole in the ground with bricks for insulation then i have a hair dryer flowing in air like yours. This would be a great portable forge you could just keep in the back of a truck or something. Nice video keep up the good work
Survivalvideos1 6 months ago
Some steels like "W" series tool steels from old files etc. need water and not oil.
7x57mmMauser 7 months ago
@7x57mmMauser if i where to make a knife out of spring steel would i use Oil or water for the quench?
5Metalgod5 5 months ago
@5Metalgod5 each metal is different so I couldn't say off hand. Usually old spring steels are 5160 and they are oil quench though some newer spring steels are air hardened or water hardened. It really depends on the exact metal type and the mfg's recommendations.
7x57mmMauser 3 months ago
make me one :o
LockDOTspot 7 months ago
How well does the knife keep its edge?
TeamInferno81 8 months ago
would it work if the steal i was useing was stainless steel?
AdamNinjaXXX 8 months ago
is the temperature in degrees celsius or farenheight?
Zacistan 9 months ago
@Zacistan F not C
Ghostkamo 8 months ago
What are the Essential tools and material I would need to make a similar blade?
DackIsBack 10 months ago
I've used Veg oil, it seems to work fine....
48vdcwrld 10 months ago
Try peanut oil -- it works.
ernstbecker1 11 months ago
Man a little help. I'm from Chile and I'll soon be travelling to Patagonia. Because I'm a jack of all trades I want to make a pair of crampons out of a 50 liters stainless steel keg. Do you think that hardening technique could work? I mean for the spikes, the tips, or they may beome hard but breakable? Thank, and congrats for your useful videoclip. JM
JMEBF 11 months ago
what did you use for a fuel sorce wood or coal or what?
svar1shot 1 year ago
@svar1shot I sifted coals from a wood fire. I have a wood stove and save the coals after the fire goes out. You can do the same with a camp fire.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
do you have to use used oil or new
and why
dimahockey 1 year ago
@dimahockey new or used doesn't matter. I used old oil that came out of my truck.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
can veg oil be use
yapxw9 1 year ago
@yapxw9 I've never tried it, good question.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
@yapxw9 I have heard that veg oil can be used, and it works good. I have not tried it, but I will soon.
jjaayypp963 1 year ago
Is it absolutely necessary to harden the steel before usage, and if so why the oil?
cupcakecooper 1 year ago
@cupcakecooper If you do not harden the steel will not hold an edge and can even bend. The oil draws the heat from the blade quickly without cracking the steel. Quick reduction of heat hardens the blade.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
Is that 350 C or F?
scrapthrall 1 year ago
@scrapthrall F not C
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
@Ghostkamo
Thanks,that was the only thing I wasn't sure about.
The rest of the vid was brilliantly clear.
(My first two blanks are now waiting for some old pans...:) )
scrapthrall 1 year ago
Lmao Ghost It Looked Like Your Coat Was Gonna Set On Fire At 1:35! Great Vid, I Hope My 1st Knife Turns Out As Well As Yours.
HomeMadeGunNut 1 year ago
very good sir very good
blacksmither1 1 year ago
really great vid, thanks
roglet123 1 year ago
can you reuse the oil?
versatilechicken 1 year ago
@versatilechicken yes, I used the same oil several times.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
why is it better to use oil instead of ice water?
hunterdka 1 year ago
@hunterdka Casue Steel gets its strength from the oil inside of the metal. When you heat it the oil is removed by adding it back in you get the strength back. There is more to it but that is just a crude explanation. I have heard WD-40 works better casue it is thinner and penetrates better. But I havent made a knife or anything close. This is just stuff I have read.
fatboy30179 1 year ago
@fatboy30179 you cannot take anything out (well actually you can cause some carbon to escape, degenerating the steel) or put anything in the steel outside a steelworks. Its contents change crystalline structure with temperature, so you can anneal it (soften it for working), work on it, harden it and temper it (soften very slightly, enough for it to flex). WD-40 as a hardening coolant is a very bad idea, as it cannot cope with temperatures that high; you'd probably have flames a few yards high.
ratbertovich 1 year ago
@hunterdka the trick is in cooling the steel quickly *and homogenously*, i.e., keeping the temperature differences along the blade in a very narrow range, so that you have the same amount of martensite (very hard form of crystalline structure that determines the steel's hardness) forming at any point on the edge. While water is a good, traditional coolant, it does not afford homogenous cooling as good as oil.
ratbertovich 1 year ago
my first question, is the knife stainles, if not?? Two, how did you prevent the blade from rusting???
nedge46 1 year ago
@nedge46 This is non-stainless. I made it from an old file. Most of my knives are stainless steel but, I do have some non-stainless. I keep them protected from rust by cleaning and waxing them after using (or use a light oil). Also, I recommend storing them outside of the sheath if they will be sitting for a while.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
@Ghostkamo thanks. i knew that non-stainless blades were made but didnt know how people prevented rust
nedge46 1 year ago
i here every one talk about the forge like if it a siense it a art
CoolKillerClan 1 year ago
@CoolKillerClan Excellent input, I have to agree with you. For me, this is more about personal expression and exploration rather than hard science. Unfortunately, even I get caught up in the details at times. thanks for the input.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
@CoolKillerClan
IT'S ALLLLL ABOUT TEMPERING PAL :) An art of it's own. I dont use power tools for the knifes I make. I also will not give someone a knife I made if it wont hack a 2x4 in half 3 times and still shave. For example.. I just made a big texas bowie by heat and hammer no power tools. Check out my channel, and click on finalvideo to see it from start to finish. I burned that video on a DVD for authenticity to go with the knife.
Ghost here knows his tempering :) Non-Magnetic :)
CodyOebel 1 year ago
OOOps.. mistake. Ghost you temper using an oven ? BAD BAD BAD :)
Nahh some people like to temper with an oven. I temper with spine in coals. Watch the steel turn blue-bronze-straw. Depending on the knife steel getting the edge a particular color comes down to knowing that steel. For 5160 I let blue the spine, light straw the edge on first temper, air cool, second temper I light bronze the edge, air cool, third temper bronze the edge. Good n tempered.
Continued
CodyOebel 1 year ago
The "ONE AND ONLY" thing I dont like about tempering in an oven.
Is first off the entire blade gets tempered. Depending on the steel. Put it in a vide and try to flex it, and it breaks, or bends and doesnt return to position. This is why I spring quench the blade, hand temper on coals, and you got flex, and edge holding, but it takes a little longer. I'm in texas.. so obviousy ghost here would have to freeze outside to do the same old school temper method LOL
CodyOebel 1 year ago
@CoolKillerClan What's the difference? Good science is beautiful.
RainMan002 1 year ago
I'm a beginner. What type of oil is that ? (Motor, cooking, some special type?)
Also, when making a knife from scrap metal, after the shaping, grinding sanding etc, is it necessary to heat and quench in oil. Would water cool it too fast? How long do you leave it in the quench solution? How many times do you heat and cool? Thank you.
musk8teer 1 year ago
great seriesof vids, thank.
knifemanconnor10 1 year ago
is doing this neccessary or isit just to strengthen the knife?
versatilechicken 1 year ago
@versatilechicken If you do not harden and temper the knife it will not keep it's edge well and will be more likely to rcieve damage like dents, scrapes and bends.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
@Ghostkamo oo thanks for that im new to knife making and stuff so i'll probrably have to build a forge =)
versatilechicken 1 year ago
Cool vid, very helpful. Thanks!
Vot63 1 year ago
that's great- not at all a bad knife
pyrea17 1 year ago
do u sell ur knives? if so, do u go to shows or do u have a website r store?
i love how the blade ignites the oil. how do u put the fire out?
john1112112 1 year ago
@john1112112 Sorry, I don't sell the knives. I make them for my wilderness and survival treks. I put the fire out by placing a metal lid over it.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
@Ghostkamo very cool, i really wanna get into making knives, but i need more knowledge about tempering and heat treating, as well as equipment, the blow dryer is a great idea. i'm not sure how i forgot that fire needs oxygen, lol whatever =]
john1112112 1 year ago
Thank you very much for these vids! Btw, would using clean oil have any adverse effects on the blade? And how long did you temper it for?
Thanks you again for the series
omgsayavailable 1 year ago
@omgsayavailable Clean oil will work. I believe I tempored this one for nearly an hour.
Ghostkamo 1 year ago
man that was very smart to use the hair dryer i would have blown with my mouth or something lol
MrSupnoobs 1 year ago
why does the oil need to be warmed? and is it okay if i use UNUSED oil?
snuffying 1 year ago
@snuffying the oil is heated to that it will cool the steel more slowly to allow for higher ductility. you can use clean oil if you want... its just a good use for old motor oil though
ImmaculateSludge 1 year ago
@ImmaculateSludge ok thanx for the reply man!
snuffying 1 year ago
MANY, MANY thanks. ive alwasy wanted to know how to do this. its SO simple too.
darktim99 1 year ago
how do you sharpen a knife?
MrCelloman21 1 year ago
After heating the steel above 727 (centigrad) here the steel has an austenitic structure, you quench it with water or oil to room temperature. This changes the microstructure to martensite. Martensitic structure is the hardest of steel microstructures which you can achieve, but sadly it is too brittle to be used effectively. Therefore after quenching, you have to temper it between 250-650 Centigrad something for an hour or two.This makes the steel gain some ductility.
crackwiser 1 year ago
After heating the steel above 727 (centigrad) here the steel has an austenitic structure, you quench it with water or oil to room temperature. This changes the microstructure to martensite. Martensitic structure is the hardest of steel microstructures which you can achieve, but sadly it is too brittle to be used effectively. Therefore after quenching, you have to temper it between 250-650 Centigrad something for an hour or two.This makes the steel gain some ductility.
crackwiser 1 year ago
Hi there Ghostkamo i like u channel alot and specially these 'knife making vids'. U got me at the point where i want to make a knife but i just can figure 1 thing out : do i need to do the hardening first or the tempering? I mean if i got my metal piece i saw it in shape first? harden it fist then temper it scharpen it? or even an other order? On youtube everyone does it different, what you do?
Thx alot for the help.
fcpoker 2 years ago
First, the metal should be softened in a camp fire and left to cool if it is too hard to cut, file and drill.
Second, shape the knife.
Third, harden the knife with the forge and dip.
Last, temper the knife with sustained heat of about 300F.
I hope this helps
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
Sure thx verry mutch !
I wil get started and make video to show how i did :p
grtz and gl
fcpoker 2 years ago
I really enjoy your vids where you make stuff. You have got me eyeing my wife's old cookware, and my old files after this one.
monstaquest 2 years ago
Thanks, there's real satisfaction in doing this at least once.
I was glad to agree that the wife needed some new stuff. LOL
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
I've been looking for videos like this for ages. You're totally subscribed to my friend.
TheSpunFire 2 years ago
Thanks, I try to do a couple knives each winter and test out a slightly different method each time.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
Hmmm, I get a lot of different opinions on that. I can tell you that I've seen videos of a guy cracking his blades in half using water. The proffesionals seem to use oil a lot.
So far it's worked for me.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
Thanks, I have a old file Im gonna start on this wknd.
You have a good channel & some real informative vids. glad I found it.
sjeter61 2 years ago
Cool, if you can, post some of the work in progress.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
Very nice , I want to try this. Forgive my ignorance,,, but why do you warm up the oil, I dont know
Steve
sjeter61 2 years ago
Several sources that I have checked with suggest that warm oil reduces the risk of cracking the steel as opposed to cold oil or water.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
Job very well done Kamo.. 5/5
Mike
bushcraftbartons 2 years ago
You did a fantastic job on making that blade! I think it would make a perfect gift for one of your fishing buddies, like me!!
5/5
nj4x4fever2 2 years ago
Thanks, I am thinking about making some that I'll part with. I'm still in the learning process with finding out what works best so, the quality of the knives should improve soon.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
Awesome this exceeds 5 stars so 10/10 this was is a great series to watch thanks for sharing my friend.
medicjimr 2 years ago
Thanks, I posted a lot of details on what I did. I hope this encourages others to try a little project of some sort. There is a lot of satifaction in making something for a hobbie.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
5 stars. Awesome, great job. Cheers
davidnightingale 2 years ago
so awesome. I am sure the final will be great
aokspage 2 years ago
effective little forge you have there..once you lower the blade in the oil,, I would gently move it back and forth a bit to encourage cooler oil from the edges of the can to get to the blade to promote a more even hardening but it was a small knife and a big ole can of oil so it's probably more than fine,,gotta commend you on the profiling with the squared off guard area,,that looks like a lot of patient work in that knife..looking forwards to the handle vid..5* kamo!
bassfuryvi 2 years ago
Thanks, you're the second one to suggest moving the blade in the oil. I'll give it a try on the next knife. On the next knife I will not post details but will describe what process I did and show results.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
awesome.a wood handle and wooden sheath would be great.
capreolus4 2 years ago
I think I will go with the wood handle but, I'm still wondering what to do for a sheath.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
A 5 dollar purchase at a flea market for a toaster oven will stop youir old ladt from freaking out on you!
mem7048 2 years ago
Good tip. Yea, you might want to wait for the lady to go shopping before you stick a big knife in the oven.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
great video knife looks good
187plumber 2 years ago
looks good kamo, im going to make another knife soon, mayb i will document it on video this time
pk066392 2 years ago
Thanks, I'm looking forward to seeing your work.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
looks great, what did you decide for the overall blade length?
beast12101 2 years ago
The "cutting edge" blade length is 5 and 5/8 inches in long. The blade after handle is 5 and 6/8 inches long. The handle is a total of 5 and 1/4 inches, with the wood part being 4 and 1/8 inches.
This is a very non-typical knife that adresses simplicity, survival and covering some basic needs quickly by using minimal skills and tools. I will move on to more refined knives in the future.
Thanks my friend for your input,
Kamo
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
Thanks, I plan to continue trying different methods and becoming more refined as I move forward.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
move the blade around some in the oil and it will cool it more evenly....Great job on a first knife Brother.
MrCableguyken 2 years ago
Hmm . . I don't know for sure but, I heard that the blade should be dipped straight in and held motionless for a minute.
BTW - I time lapsed that part.
We'll have to investigate this a little more, I have been starting very basic and trying different methods each time.
Ghostkamo 2 years ago
Yeah, I get all kinds of different stories too when I started making knives...Look and see if you can find wayne goddards $50 knife shop...lots of great info in there...I know where to get it, just dont like to read...lol If you want it and cant find it let me know, and I can get it for ya and send it your way
MrCableguyken 2 years ago
awesome project Kamo!
19ADC67 2 years ago 2
Thanks
Ghostkamo 2 years ago