great video!! i have a 02 bmw 325ci with a break booster problem. I THINK?. hissing noise when i apply the breaks at a red light. when the traffic light turns green and i'm about to excelerate the car turns off. Is it a break booster issue? Do you the break booster can cause the car to turn off? Thank you.
With the help of this video I successfully replaced the brake booster on my 1999 GMC k2500. His instructions on removing the nuts under the dash that hold the booster to the firewall are spot on. I'm sure I would have finished the job with 10 busted knuckles and it would have taken twice as long without his help. Great video if you have this (or similar) truck and need to replace this part.
Don't know weather its my booster or master cylinder
My brake pedal is tough to press and spongy, I have to press it all the way to come to a complete stop.. Also I hear a noise as I press on my brake .. Sound like air, had my brakes bleat when I had rotors pads done couple weeks ago..
It sounds like you might have a bad brake booster due to the pedal being tough to press and the fact that you hear air while pressing the brake pedal. The fact that your pedal is spongy and it sounds like your pedal goes all the way to the floor tells me that your brakes needs to be bleed again. Good luck!
great video, i was having a hard time with the 4 nuts until i watched you and you were using a SWIVEL, i had forgot how useful those are in tight situations. I was simply using a ratchet/socket and getting barely a click on the ratchet in the room i had and it was taking forever to just get 1 nut off. Now off to find my neglected swivel
If you have enough room to get the booster out without disconnecting the master cylinder then bleeding is not required. I you disconnect/remove the master cylinder then you will need to bleed the brake system.
Start engine for about 1 minute, depress brake pedal several time slowly. Depress brake pedal while engine is running, then turn the engine off. The pedal height should not change after holding the pedal down for 30 seconds.
This guy is awesome! Best auto repair video I've watched. He is clear; he explains not only what you're doing, but how things work. I am now confident I can do this job - for a lot less than a mechanic would charge me!
thanks for the video. I was able to change my break booster in about 1 1/2 hours. my only problem was the clip on the brake. Other than that it went smoothly. Most of all I saved about $375 doing it myself, only paid $98 for the parts! WINNING!! LOL!!
Thank you. I was able to replace my brake booster in a 94 Ford Explorer following this exactly. Only difference was the 9/16th deep socket instead of 15mm. I saved about $300 and spent just under an hour from start to finish.
Thank you. I was able to replace my brake booster in a 94 Ford Explorer following this exactly. Only difference was the 9/16th deep socket instead of 15mm. I saved about $300 and spent just under an hour from start to finish.
the video doesn't show how to get the clip off. with no room to work you need to show the easiest way to take that funny looking clip off? the rest is a peace of cake...you don't show the hard part
I have a 97 2 door blazer and The plate is in the way but if you drop the panel that partly covers the dash you can get to the top bolts with a deep socket aand swivel
This is a pretty good video, and helpful in general info I used it to change mine..HOWEVER..he completely downplays the difficulty in getting the brake light switch and clip off, it is almost impossible to get at unless you have little hands like a child, and you SHOULD purchase a new clip BEFORE starting the job as they are almost always damaged trying to get them off..and trying to put the clip back on will be all but impossible without lowering the steering column .
This video will give you a basic idea on how to replace the brake booster; you may want to get a service manual so that you will have a reference to go off of.
Thank s for the video. It gave me the confidence to the job on a 1999 Suburban myself. It was about as simple as you made it look. The only thing that took me longer was dropping the nuts and losing one behind the floor mat (found it half an hour later). The booster was $140 (factory remanufactured). I saved about $350+/- and got it done sooner - no wait for opening at repair shop.
This was a GREAT help to me. I have a '99 Blazer. The top right bolt can't be taken off with deep socket and swivel, though. They don't fit! I got a shorter socket, and that was too long, too. It's been hours, and I am taking the nut off about a 1/5 turn at a time. I tried many combinations of sockets, swivels, extensions, etc. Do you have any other suggestions for me? The part that is in the way is this metal plate that goes around the steering column. Do I need to remove that? Thanks!
A BIG THANK YOU!! I am a 52 year old woman who had only changed the oil and battery in a car. I just completed this job, replaced a vacuum brake booster today! Took me 2 hrs and 15 minutes! I did my prep the day before, gathered my tools, bought the deep socket and universal angle. Had a little trouble getting the Master Cylinder out of the way and broke the brake light switch clamp(little metal ring) taking it off. Was able to get from Kragen's for $3.00. Saved me $400!!!
Should you disconnect the airbag before removing the brake light and other work in cabin? Is there a possibility of the airbag going off while your working in the cabin?
I'm not sure what type of vehicle it is you’re working on and I don't know what brake bulb you’re replacing? When ever in doubt you should always look it up in a service manual (you can get one from, your local auto dealer or local parts store). Yes it is possible for the air bag to go off while working in the cabin of a vehicle depending on what it is that you’re doing.
I have a 97 GMC Sierra that the dealer says has a bad master cylinder and vacuum booster. NAPA Auto Parts sells both of them already put together as a kit. Do I need to bench bleed the MC since they're together. If yes, then are there any special instructions that are different from bench bleeding it as if the MC were by itself?
yah my 1990 caravan,i replaced the leaky master cylinder and bleed the braks alot and they go up but as soon as i start the van the breaks go to the floor??is that the brake booster????
As long as you bleed the brakes correctly (did you bleed all four wheels), then it is possible that you have a bad booster. I would first try bleeding the brakes again before replacing the brake booster. Good Luck!!
If you’re talking about just replace the brake booster then I would say that price is hi, the booster cost about $660.00 and labor would be about 2 hours. If they are going to do more than just the booster then $1200.00 might be accurate? You could always go some were else and get another quote. Good Luck!
@canobd2 Hi there, by the way our user names are so similar, so I have a 96 ford explorer... and the shaft that goes in the brake pedal went loose, upwards... downwards seems to be normal...
But what it does is it automatically brakes!, it kinda locks up, and then i press a bit and the brakes release more, I keep pressing and then i actually brake.. any ideas? Thanks in advance! great video by the way, I might end up doing the change myself if necesary!
@canobd2 it actually was..!, the push rod goes in a spheric joint and it seems that due to wear it poped out hmm :(, i was able to pull the rod out of the system, seems that the spring inside was stronger than the joint action hmm, guessing if this is repairable or should simply buy a need vacuum booster... thanks for feedback!! apreciate it!
I think my 62 Ford Galaxie has a rebuilable brake booster. I have to mash my pedal to the metal (literally) to stop. Also my brake lights are actuated off a pressure switch at the end of the master cylinder.
It sounds like you may have a brake booster problem with your Galaxie, you may also want to make sure you don't have air in the lines because this can also have the same effect. Good Luck!
@canobd2 For $110 bucks I can replace the booster and master cylinder. Comes with a lifetime warranty on the parts. Might as well redo the whole shabang and get it all over with. Thank you for the vid. It hepled with the basic premise. Mine should not be this difficult.
If you’re going to bleed your brake system you should start with the right rear, then left rear, then right front, and finish of with the left front (drivers side). Good Luck!
I have just bought a Freelander for the girlfriend and every so often there is a hissing sound. It's an intermittent fault, but they brakes still seem very good. It just happens randomly. Would I be right in thinking it's the check valve or the brake booster? Any information will be appreciated. Kind Regards,
It sounds like you’re on the right track however the vehicle is not in front of me so I can't determine that these parts are indeed bad. Note; this may also be a characteristic (they all may do this, so there for it is normal) of your vehicle so you may want to find out before you start replace parts.
It could be your brake booster, it could also be air in your brake system (causing the mushy pedal) if this is the case then you will need to bleed the brake system.
Gotta love the wonders of video... makes a 5 or 6 hour job (sometimes) look like an easy 10 minute walk in the park. lol. great video though by the way
Overall very helpful for my 1995 GMC Suburban 1500. Exact same setup. You left out the cussing and contorting into a pretzel trying find the stupid clip for the brake lights that does not want to come off with a screwdriver or anything else for that matter, you also never showed how to get the clip back on. Other than that very helpful
If you’re able to remove the brake booster without disconnecting your master cylinder brake lines (like we did in the video) then you will not need to bleed the brakes. If you have to remove the master cylinder in order to remove the brake booster then you will need to bleed the brake system.
I was just wondering if these same instructions apply for a 1995 gmc sierra sle automatic? My brake pedal is hard to press down and when I do apply pressure, all I hear is a hissing sound and I have no brakes. Could this possibly mean that I have a vacuum leak in my brake booster? Thank you for your help!
I have a 1997 Chevy 2500 5.7l vortec, changed my power booster, and now my brakes get hot real fast and slow the truck down. What did I do wrong or could I have the wrong booster?
It sounds like the push rod is out of adjustment, that’s were I would start, if you did not have this problem before you replaced the booster. Good Luck!
My brake lights wouldn't turn off, went in and got the brake light switch "fixed" and on my way home, my brakes locked on the freeway. Not only did this company that "fixed" my car bend the brake rods they just put oil on my old brake switch and called it a day. FML!
My brake lights wouldn't turn off, went in and got the brake light switch "fixed" and on my way home, my brakes locked on the freeway. Not only did this company that "fixed" my car bend the brake rods they just put oil on my old brake switch and called it a day. FML!
my master cylinder was replaced a few months ago and I still have no pressure in my brakes . every so often I have to put brake fluid in my master cylinder . is this a sign that I need a new master cylinder or do i need a booster as well. I have also have all four to the brakes changed . I need some advice please anyone
i am actually about to replace one on same vehicle(97 sierra 5.7) and notice someone asked you about adjustment but you did not mention anything about adjustment in your video. will i need to do this and how? thank you....
You may need to adjust the push rod height, check it first. To do this you will need a push rod height gauge tool (J 37839) or equivalent. Gage the booster with 20 inches Hg (85 kPa) vacuum or maximum engine vacuum, check maximum and minimum rod lengths. If the rod is not within specifications, adjust it to the correct measurement.
when I have my old booster removed, the push rod seems firmly in place, I'm replacing it with one that is compatible but from a vehicle that is 5 years old, and i notice that the push rod can be removed from its normal seating and wiggled around, but not removed entirely from the booster. I can put the push rod back afterwards, is this all normal??
@pimpnprofits I doubt it cause for fluid to come out air would have to go in. And he didn't bleed the system. If you do the master though you will have to bleed. I am about to do my girlfriends brake booster and I will let you know
@pimpnprofits If you are talking about just unbolting the master cylinder from the brake booster then the answer is no.
If you are talking about during a brake booster replacement then it all depends on the vehicle. Some you can get away without undoing brake lines and others you have to remove the master cylinder completely before you access the brake booster (thus causing brake fluid to leak).
great video!! i have a 02 bmw 325ci with a break booster problem. I THINK?. hissing noise when i apply the breaks at a red light. when the traffic light turns green and i'm about to excelerate the car turns off. Is it a break booster issue? Do you the break booster can cause the car to turn off? Thank you.
williewheelz 2 days ago
I'm watching this to save myself $1334. The booster itself was no more than $200. So go figure what labor costs.
mrdaoyang4 1 week ago
Is there a more effective way of removing the clip? It seems that my clip wont budge.
azulblanko 1 week ago
Not that I know of, they can be a real pain sometimes. Good luck!!
canobd2 1 week ago
ROCK ON, thank u for the video.
MrProjectpat15 1 week ago
Great Video, No I know I can replace my 96 Brake Booster
Thank You
2mshelton 2 weeks ago
With the help of this video I successfully replaced the brake booster on my 1999 GMC k2500. His instructions on removing the nuts under the dash that hold the booster to the firewall are spot on. I'm sure I would have finished the job with 10 busted knuckles and it would have taken twice as long without his help. Great video if you have this (or similar) truck and need to replace this part.
77Alleydog 2 weeks ago
Thank you!
AWMIGHTY 3 weeks ago
Wish I'd seen this before I stopped into the brake shop. They're replacing my booster as I type this comment... $350 parts & labor.
But then, I didn't know that's what was causing my brakes to engage on their own and me having to constantly bleed them every few weeks...
DG4String 3 weeks ago
Don't know weather its my booster or master cylinder
My brake pedal is tough to press and spongy, I have to press it all the way to come to a complete stop.. Also I hear a noise as I press on my brake .. Sound like air, had my brakes bleat when I had rotors pads done couple weeks ago..
Any ideas would be appreciated..
Kingsevends 3 weeks ago
It sounds like you might have a bad brake booster due to the pedal being tough to press and the fact that you hear air while pressing the brake pedal. The fact that your pedal is spongy and it sounds like your pedal goes all the way to the floor tells me that your brakes needs to be bleed again. Good luck!
canobd2 3 weeks ago
@Kingsevends Brake booster for sure, I had the same problem. Good luck!
AlcoholicAvenger 3 weeks ago
great video, i was having a hard time with the 4 nuts until i watched you and you were using a SWIVEL, i had forgot how useful those are in tight situations. I was simply using a ratchet/socket and getting barely a click on the ratchet in the room i had and it was taking forever to just get 1 nut off. Now off to find my neglected swivel
NoonerV1 1 month ago
do drain the fluid before changing booster and bleed after replacing. or can i just replace the booster and thats it? thanks
ThePolarisRanger 1 month ago
If you have enough room to get the booster out without disconnecting the master cylinder then bleeding is not required. I you disconnect/remove the master cylinder then you will need to bleed the brake system.
canobd2 1 month ago
great video. Would have liked to have seen the stop light and pin/clip detail. Thanks much
digitalwasteman 1 month ago
very good video! great job man!
jorgeencinascastillo 2 months ago
thanks for the video .this is great !!! I fix my GMC Jimmy 1996 .
laraza49507 2 months ago
how do I know that my brake booster is bad
laraza49507 2 months ago in playlist Liked videos
@laraza49507 and how should I know that I did a good instaletion
laraza49507 2 months ago in playlist Liked videos
No power assist, very hard brake pedal.
canobd2 2 months ago
nice :)
laraza49507 2 months ago
how can i tell if thats my problem?
mzsmoke1 3 months ago
Start engine for about 1 minute, depress brake pedal several time slowly. Depress brake pedal while engine is running, then turn the engine off. The pedal height should not change after holding the pedal down for 30 seconds.
canobd2 3 months ago
This guy is awesome! Best auto repair video I've watched. He is clear; he explains not only what you're doing, but how things work. I am now confident I can do this job - for a lot less than a mechanic would charge me!
bethelcrc 3 months ago
thanks for the video. I was able to change my break booster in about 1 1/2 hours. my only problem was the clip on the brake. Other than that it went smoothly. Most of all I saved about $375 doing it myself, only paid $98 for the parts! WINNING!! LOL!!
hfdtaxi 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Thank you. I was able to replace my brake booster in a 94 Ford Explorer following this exactly. Only difference was the 9/16th deep socket instead of 15mm. I saved about $300 and spent just under an hour from start to finish.
mybadpants 4 months ago
Thank you. I was able to replace my brake booster in a 94 Ford Explorer following this exactly. Only difference was the 9/16th deep socket instead of 15mm. I saved about $300 and spent just under an hour from start to finish.
mybadpants 4 months ago
great video, well explained. you do a great job. I love this channel.
horizonwest2 4 months ago
Thank you my husband was able to change the booster, and I am a happy driver again:) He had to replace the 2005 Armada brake booster
stelaluna23 4 months ago
Thank you my husband was able to change the booster, and I am a happy driver again:)
stelaluna23 4 months ago
I'll be doing this on my 98 Grand Cherokee soon. Thank you for this video!
jmm078 4 months ago
I followed EXACTLY how described, and I now have a new brake booster on my 1998 Chevy Silverado K1500 4x4! Thank you for sharing! Great video :)
michaelanthony 4 months ago in playlist michaelanthony's favorites
you said insert rod into firewall....
(attempting on 72 ford mustang)
AaronTGrace 5 months ago
I'm not sure what your question is?
canobd2 5 months ago
i will be attempting this on my 97 sierra tomorrow. thanks!!!
jwelsh1238 6 months ago
the video doesn't show how to get the clip off. with no room to work you need to show the easiest way to take that funny looking clip off? the rest is a peace of cake...you don't show the hard part
kennobles 6 months ago
what if the snap ring brakes when taking it off now i cant get the truck to go in gear
heavy41875 6 months ago
I’m not sure what snap ring you’re talking about? What vehicle are you working on?
canobd2 6 months ago
@canobd2 im having the same problem. I think there is a special way to put the stop light switch retainer back on. I need help also 99 tahoe
TRX450rYB240 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@heavy41875 im having the same problem. I think there is a special way to put the stop light switch retainer back on. I need help also 99 tahoe
TRX450rYB240 6 months ago
I have a 97 2 door blazer and The plate is in the way but if you drop the panel that partly covers the dash you can get to the top bolts with a deep socket aand swivel
MNBLAZER07 6 months ago
This is a pretty good video, and helpful in general info I used it to change mine..HOWEVER..he completely downplays the difficulty in getting the brake light switch and clip off, it is almost impossible to get at unless you have little hands like a child, and you SHOULD purchase a new clip BEFORE starting the job as they are almost always damaged trying to get them off..and trying to put the clip back on will be all but impossible without lowering the steering column .
KINDOY2 7 months ago
Will this be the same for a 2004 Ford Escape?
rizz917 7 months ago
It will be the same basic procedure as the one in the video.
canobd2 7 months ago 2
@canobd2 Excellent. Thanks!
rizz917 7 months ago
Whoever disliked this is a pure ass. Thanks for the information video.
cgrizzle3 7 months ago
will this video work for a 99 dodge grand caravan too?
mariecurl8 8 months ago
This video will give you a basic idea on how to replace the brake booster; you may want to get a service manual so that you will have a reference to go off of.
canobd2 8 months ago
Thank s for the video. It gave me the confidence to the job on a 1999 Suburban myself. It was about as simple as you made it look. The only thing that took me longer was dropping the nuts and losing one behind the floor mat (found it half an hour later). The booster was $140 (factory remanufactured). I saved about $350+/- and got it done sooner - no wait for opening at repair shop.
stiltmeister 8 months ago
This was a GREAT help to me. I have a '99 Blazer. The top right bolt can't be taken off with deep socket and swivel, though. They don't fit! I got a shorter socket, and that was too long, too. It's been hours, and I am taking the nut off about a 1/5 turn at a time. I tried many combinations of sockets, swivels, extensions, etc. Do you have any other suggestions for me? The part that is in the way is this metal plate that goes around the steering column. Do I need to remove that? Thanks!
aaangel30 8 months ago in playlist Car Repair
According to the directions it does say to remove the stering column suport bracket, hopfuly this will be a big help. Good Luck!
canobd2 8 months ago
A BIG THANK YOU!! I am a 52 year old woman who had only changed the oil and battery in a car. I just completed this job, replaced a vacuum brake booster today! Took me 2 hrs and 15 minutes! I did my prep the day before, gathered my tools, bought the deep socket and universal angle. Had a little trouble getting the Master Cylinder out of the way and broke the brake light switch clamp(little metal ring) taking it off. Was able to get from Kragen's for $3.00. Saved me $400!!!
ImaBirdfan2 9 months ago
THANK YOU.
KAPtv 9 months ago
replacing the booster on the 97 Sierra similar to replacing it on a 97 Blazer?
MsSylvia924 9 months ago
Yes, same basic procedure.
canobd2 9 months ago
Should you disconnect the airbag before removing the brake light and other work in cabin? Is there a possibility of the airbag going off while your working in the cabin?
paulspigler 9 months ago
I'm not sure what type of vehicle it is you’re working on and I don't know what brake bulb you’re replacing? When ever in doubt you should always look it up in a service manual (you can get one from, your local auto dealer or local parts store). Yes it is possible for the air bag to go off while working in the cabin of a vehicle depending on what it is that you’re doing.
canobd2 9 months ago
No more vids canobd2 ??
hp11208 9 months ago
We will have more soon!
canobd2 9 months ago
I have a 97 GMC Sierra that the dealer says has a bad master cylinder and vacuum booster. NAPA Auto Parts sells both of them already put together as a kit. Do I need to bench bleed the MC since they're together. If yes, then are there any special instructions that are different from bench bleeding it as if the MC were by itself?
lsfireman6c 10 months ago
Yes, you should bench bleed the master before installing it, and the procedure is the same as if the master cylinder was by itself. Good Luck!
canobd2 10 months ago
God sent.
nikedoesit 10 months ago
yah my 1990 caravan,i replaced the leaky master cylinder and bleed the braks alot and they go up but as soon as i start the van the breaks go to the floor??is that the brake booster????
brucekirk89 10 months ago
As long as you bleed the brakes correctly (did you bleed all four wheels), then it is possible that you have a bad booster. I would first try bleeding the brakes again before replacing the brake booster. Good Luck!!
canobd2 10 months ago
@canobd2 yes i bleed the brakes alot about 4 times and they work untill i start the van
brucekirk89 10 months ago
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you installed it? You bleed the whole system 4 times?
canobd2 10 months ago
thank u very helpful your the man
numinut 11 months ago
Thanks, wish me luck, ill try this weekend!
cano3d 11 months ago
what about bleeding the system?
hp11208 1 year ago
i got quoted $1200 just to fix my brakes is that right? like the brake booster...
jackjkershaw 1 year ago
What kind of vehicle? Make, model,etc.?
canobd2 1 year ago
@canobd2 hey sory for late replyy
um my car is a honda prelude 1993 :)
jackjkershaw 11 months ago
If you’re talking about just replace the brake booster then I would say that price is hi, the booster cost about $660.00 and labor would be about 2 hours. If they are going to do more than just the booster then $1200.00 might be accurate? You could always go some were else and get another quote. Good Luck!
canobd2 11 months ago
@canobd2 Hi there, by the way our user names are so similar, so I have a 96 ford explorer... and the shaft that goes in the brake pedal went loose, upwards... downwards seems to be normal...
But what it does is it automatically brakes!, it kinda locks up, and then i press a bit and the brakes release more, I keep pressing and then i actually brake.. any ideas? Thanks in advance! great video by the way, I might end up doing the change myself if necesary!
cano3d 11 months ago
It sounds like your brake booster push rod might be out of adjustment in your 1996 explorer? Good Luck!
canobd2 11 months ago
@canobd2 it actually was..!, the push rod goes in a spheric joint and it seems that due to wear it poped out hmm :(, i was able to pull the rod out of the system, seems that the spring inside was stronger than the joint action hmm, guessing if this is repairable or should simply buy a need vacuum booster... thanks for feedback!! apreciate it!
cano3d 11 months ago
I would recommend a new booster but it is up to you. Good Luck!
canobd2 11 months ago
I think my 62 Ford Galaxie has a rebuilable brake booster. I have to mash my pedal to the metal (literally) to stop. Also my brake lights are actuated off a pressure switch at the end of the master cylinder.
woodlandcammo27 1 year ago
It sounds like you may have a brake booster problem with your Galaxie, you may also want to make sure you don't have air in the lines because this can also have the same effect. Good Luck!
canobd2 1 year ago
@canobd2 For $110 bucks I can replace the booster and master cylinder. Comes with a lifetime warranty on the parts. Might as well redo the whole shabang and get it all over with. Thank you for the vid. It hepled with the basic premise. Mine should not be this difficult.
woodlandcammo27 1 year ago
How would you go about bleeding the brakes and such?
nathan221989 1 year ago
If you’re going to bleed your brake system you should start with the right rear, then left rear, then right front, and finish of with the left front (drivers side). Good Luck!
canobd2 1 year ago
Pep Boys was going to charge me over $500 to do this. But after watching this I think its something I can handle.
Thanks for the Video. I subscribed.
onefatalerror 1 year ago
I have just bought a Freelander for the girlfriend and every so often there is a hissing sound. It's an intermittent fault, but they brakes still seem very good. It just happens randomly. Would I be right in thinking it's the check valve or the brake booster? Any information will be appreciated. Kind Regards,
Stefan.
stefan7n 1 year ago
It sounds like you’re on the right track however the vehicle is not in front of me so I can't determine that these parts are indeed bad. Note; this may also be a characteristic (they all may do this, so there for it is normal) of your vehicle so you may want to find out before you start replace parts.
canobd2 1 year ago
it my pedal is mushy on the brakes, and the car drops in idle when i depress the brake? is this brake booster issue?
sof1map 1 year ago
It could be your brake booster, it could also be air in your brake system (causing the mushy pedal) if this is the case then you will need to bleed the brake system.
canobd2 1 year ago
Great video, very well presented. Could you tell me what a common sign of a bad booster might be in an old chevy truck. thanks much.
jazzmember4life 1 year ago
good replacement
TONTONAGU 1 year ago
this was very helpful. i had to replace mine on my 99 gmc yukon.. thanks dude
barrbaz 1 year ago
Gotta love the wonders of video... makes a 5 or 6 hour job (sometimes) look like an easy 10 minute walk in the park. lol. great video though by the way
09johnkeeg 1 year ago
Overall very helpful for my 1995 GMC Suburban 1500. Exact same setup. You left out the cussing and contorting into a pretzel trying find the stupid clip for the brake lights that does not want to come off with a screwdriver or anything else for that matter, you also never showed how to get the clip back on. Other than that very helpful
Quarath01 1 year ago 2
@Quarath01 Just did this. That retainer clip is a pain. its also $1.59 from GM
GreyFox2000 1 year ago 2
@GreyFox2000 Yes I ended up replacing the entire switch and getting a new clip was only about $12 for the switch.
Quarath01 1 year ago
If you’re able to remove the brake booster without disconnecting your master cylinder brake lines (like we did in the video) then you will not need to bleed the brakes. If you have to remove the master cylinder in order to remove the brake booster then you will need to bleed the brake system.
canobd2 1 year ago
What state are you located?
NJNANA973 1 year ago
@NJNANA973 ....nevermind. I followed the links. I see you're in CA, but can you recommend anyone in Jersey to address my brake booster problem?
NJNANA973 1 year ago
Sorry, but I do not have any recommendations.
canobd2 1 year ago
Very good video sir , now would a brake booster replacement on a 5spd ,5.0 88 mustang be some what the same ?
blown408notch 1 year ago
Yes, it's basically the same, however I would get a manual if you do not have one so that you have something to refer to. Good Luck!
canobd2 1 year ago
I was just wondering if these same instructions apply for a 1995 gmc sierra sle automatic? My brake pedal is hard to press down and when I do apply pressure, all I hear is a hissing sound and I have no brakes. Could this possibly mean that I have a vacuum leak in my brake booster? Thank you for your help!
mrbigchriss 1 year ago
The procedure should be the same, it does sound like your brake booster is bad. Good Luck!
canobd2 1 year ago
thanks bro mechanics nowadays are a skam ur leggit =]
feloniiec 1 year ago
I have a 1997 Chevy 2500 5.7l vortec, changed my power booster, and now my brakes get hot real fast and slow the truck down. What did I do wrong or could I have the wrong booster?
NoobGeetar 1 year ago
It sounds like the push rod is out of adjustment, that’s were I would start, if you did not have this problem before you replaced the booster. Good Luck!
canobd2 1 year ago
My brake lights wouldn't turn off, went in and got the brake light switch "fixed" and on my way home, my brakes locked on the freeway. Not only did this company that "fixed" my car bend the brake rods they just put oil on my old brake switch and called it a day. FML!
footuintheass 1 year ago
My brake lights wouldn't turn off, went in and got the brake light switch "fixed" and on my way home, my brakes locked on the freeway. Not only did this company that "fixed" my car bend the brake rods they just put oil on my old brake switch and called it a day. FML!
footuintheass 1 year ago
Great video. This was very helpful. Little things like knowing exactly which sockets you need make the job so much faster. Thanks for posting it.
latinhouseparty 1 year ago
Thank you Very much,This is very helpfull!
light7FFL 1 year ago
my master cylinder was replaced a few months ago and I still have no pressure in my brakes . every so often I have to put brake fluid in my master cylinder . is this a sign that I need a new master cylinder or do i need a booster as well. I have also have all four to the brakes changed . I need some advice please anyone
TIMESTREAMER12 1 year ago
thanx for the video. it gave me the knowledge i needed to do the job and turned out good.
johnson3369 1 year ago
i am actually about to replace one on same vehicle(97 sierra 5.7) and notice someone asked you about adjustment but you did not mention anything about adjustment in your video. will i need to do this and how? thank you....
johnson3369 1 year ago
@johnson3369
You may need to adjust the push rod height, check it first. To do this you will need a push rod height gauge tool (J 37839) or equivalent. Gage the booster with 20 inches Hg (85 kPa) vacuum or maximum engine vacuum, check maximum and minimum rod lengths. If the rod is not within specifications, adjust it to the correct measurement.
Good Luck!
canobd2 1 year ago
Mr. you saved me a buch of money! thanks for this video god bless you
calilacs 1 year ago
when I have my old booster removed, the push rod seems firmly in place, I'm replacing it with one that is compatible but from a vehicle that is 5 years old, and i notice that the push rod can be removed from its normal seating and wiggled around, but not removed entirely from the booster. I can put the push rod back afterwards, is this all normal??
Servili007 1 year ago
@Servili007
The push rod should be pretty firm, you should not be able to remove it and or move it around excessively. I would recommend a new brake booster.
Good Luck!
canobd2 1 year ago
do you know how much cost the brake booster for toyota landcruiser 1991
0mario5 1 year ago
@0mario5
The MSRP for the factory brake booster is $982.42, and the labor to in stall is about 2 hours.
canobd2 1 year ago
DO you know what the brake booster measurement adjustment is for a 1986 Ford Tempo ?Thanks........
pointinfinity 1 year ago
@pointinfinity,
You will need to ajust the push rod to provide light tension of about 5lbs. (2.3 kg) against the gauge.
Note: Some Ford boosters use factory ajusted or non-ajustable push rods, do not attempt to ajust this types.
Good Luck!
canobd2 1 year ago
Do you lose brake fluid from the master cylinder when you remove it from the booster???
pimpnprofits 1 year ago
@pimpnprofits I doubt it cause for fluid to come out air would have to go in. And he didn't bleed the system. If you do the master though you will have to bleed. I am about to do my girlfriends brake booster and I will let you know
MaddCow99 1 year ago
@pimpnprofits If you are talking about just unbolting the master cylinder from the brake booster then the answer is no.
If you are talking about during a brake booster replacement then it all depends on the vehicle. Some you can get away without undoing brake lines and others you have to remove the master cylinder completely before you access the brake booster (thus causing brake fluid to leak).
canobd2 1 year ago
yea this guy whant me to pay 400$ just to fixs tha .
c3thestar 1 year ago
Hello, That was very helpful, How difficult is it to replace a brake booster on a Volvo v70? Is is the same procedure??
Thank you!
mexsag 1 year ago