Yes, this pitch is more like 5.13b or c (8a/8a+, depending who you listen to). As to the trad grade; it was the custom at the time to give bolted slate routes trad grades, but anyway if you think this is a sport route go and have a go at pitches 1, 2 or 4.
@pitot1988 you're born in 88 and you dont recognize Creed? It was the band everyone made fun of before Nickelback lol. I secretly used to like em in high school. The Song is "Higher."
This pitch gets F8a nowadays which would be 5.13a/b i think. This pitch is the famous one but the pitch above has the hardest move of the route with a nail english 7a rockover
Amazing climber, amazing skill. Would more than likley piss most of the routes put up these days. If i could pop this then i would be more than happy. One question though? What warrants this an E grade when he appears to be climbing on bolts? The last comment is not trying to disparage his achievement, it's just to provide an answer to my ignorance!!!!
@calidris1981 i think its because there is some trad pitchs leading up to it and it doesn't look like there would be wany gear on this pitch any so it has been bolted, so i think the E8 7a is an avarage grade
@calidris1981 When bolting was first introduced in the UK people didn't use the French grading system, they just tried to apply the current E system to the bolted climbs they were doing. The Quarryman is relatively safe but very hard physically compared to some of the more dangerous E8s. I think modern ascents are generally given French sport grades? The pitches above (i.e. the Fire Escape) are potentially more dangerous as well, thus warranting a trad grade? Not sure on that last point!
He ows me fags from 1997 in the Hights Llanberis when drunk and Johnney has still not come down to Ogmore scared he is maybe lol Love U Johnny i climb because of u LOL
go johnny. simply the best of his generation, beautiful technique and a beautiful philosophy. glad to see he's still climbing bold routes these days too. top man! (thanks for helping me on the boulder in nant!)
Sweet work by climber and camera. Loved the music - dreaming ... take me higher... escape from life we live... let's go there... make our escape: good fit! Also digging the leggy flexibility of the climber - I'm guessing a karate guy?
I enjoyed watching; but better him than me.
moxtr 2 weeks ago
Those are sticky soles. The original music on Stone monkey was Yo Mama by frank Zappa. An iconic climbing film
mozwyn 1 month ago
gotta remember this is before sticky rubber soles aswell! bloody good bit of climbing
dangerousecelt 1 month ago
Yes, this pitch is more like 5.13b or c (8a/8a+, depending who you listen to). As to the trad grade; it was the custom at the time to give bolted slate routes trad grades, but anyway if you think this is a sport route go and have a go at pitches 1, 2 or 4.
octavia2 2 months ago
Slate Quary in Llanberis, Wales, UK. Slate is a awful material with no friction and whole this hole in the Earth looks very depresive.
horyinfo 2 months ago
Can somebody tell me where this spot is located?? It looks gorgeous, I want to try it!! :)
gonkungfu 2 months ago
what a lucky moment when i switched off the music.
Parti0San 2 months ago
What's the song?
pitot1988 2 months ago
@pitot1988 you're born in 88 and you dont recognize Creed? It was the band everyone made fun of before Nickelback lol. I secretly used to like em in high school. The Song is "Higher."
karikaru 2 months ago
@karikaru Yeah too bad I was born outside the States! Guess what, I am still in my quest to explore music of the 80s! Thanks for the headsup
pitot1988 2 months ago
This pitch gets F8a nowadays which would be 5.13a/b i think. This pitch is the famous one but the pitch above has the hardest move of the route with a nail english 7a rockover
ollicrudge 2 months ago
E ?? THIS IS NOT TRAD CLIMBING... THERE ARE BOLTS...
AndreaBerto1987 2 months ago
i was just about to say the same thing, this is a sport route not a traditional one.
hshoshari 2 months ago
@AndreaBerto1987 You've never climbed on slate have you?
Digdigs2 1 month ago
Outrageous! Not only strong and skillful but creative too! Love the arm-stem, feet-swinging move to the high step near the end!
rwooldridge2 2 months ago
Amazing!
masni92 2 months ago
It's from "Stone Monkey" (1986)
Deadwit 2 months ago
Nice pants ;)
XtremScape 2 months ago
suck my bumhole
TheSnowyDrake 3 months ago
Amazing.. Johnny is the Man...
One of the most important figures in British Climbing
EugeniousNat 3 months ago
Hardcore!!!
adupontbr 3 months ago
Yeah the grad conversion is way off, E8 7a would give something around 5:13c/d.
southspiner 3 months ago
Amazing climber, amazing skill. Would more than likley piss most of the routes put up these days. If i could pop this then i would be more than happy. One question though? What warrants this an E grade when he appears to be climbing on bolts? The last comment is not trying to disparage his achievement, it's just to provide an answer to my ignorance!!!!
calidris1981 3 months ago
@calidris1981 i think its because there is some trad pitchs leading up to it and it doesn't look like there would be wany gear on this pitch any so it has been bolted, so i think the E8 7a is an avarage grade
jamesturnbull1997 3 months ago
@calidris1981 When bolting was first introduced in the UK people didn't use the French grading system, they just tried to apply the current E system to the bolted climbs they were doing. The Quarryman is relatively safe but very hard physically compared to some of the more dangerous E8s. I think modern ascents are generally given French sport grades? The pitches above (i.e. the Fire Escape) are potentially more dangerous as well, thus warranting a trad grade? Not sure on that last point!
hunta998 2 months ago 2
He ows me fags from 1997 in the Hights Llanberis when drunk and Johnney has still not come down to Ogmore scared he is maybe lol Love U Johnny i climb because of u LOL
joesoloshunt 3 months ago
5:52 havin' a smoke.
easrth 4 months ago
Nicely done! Lovin the old BD BOD harness! I still have mine.
PackardDog 4 months ago
Incredible climb, and a great song :)
Gexgrino 4 months ago in playlist Gexgrino's favorites
Holy crap that looks A LOT harder than 11d!!! It looks more like Crofts the Shadow in Squamish which I think went at 12d.
Nice freakin climb buddy!
Ducatiboy73 5 months ago
go johnny. simply the best of his generation, beautiful technique and a beautiful philosophy. glad to see he's still climbing bold routes these days too. top man! (thanks for helping me on the boulder in nant!)
butterfliesandtape 7 months ago
Sweet work by climber and camera. Loved the music - dreaming ... take me higher... escape from life we live... let's go there... make our escape: good fit! Also digging the leggy flexibility of the climber - I'm guessing a karate guy?
davidkarkut 8 months ago
@davidkarkut The Johnny Dawes, more of a climbing guy, hence the flexibilty :)
W00TTANG 7 months ago
more like 5.13+
sueedenjin 9 months ago