The reasoning for 3/4 quarter around is to let it flow with the unlevelness of the subfloor which makes the laminate not as level. Do this a few thousand times and I guarrantee that you will never get a perfect seam between base board and the floor. If so, then walk by the wall and watch the floor go down and away from the base board's bottom around the perimeter.
I'm gonna go over this one at a time. Let's see here. @bs4u87, I want to know how many people want to score the caulk on baseboards, pull them off the wall possibly damaging them, put a floor down that is most likely not level 'because there is just no such thing as a perfect subfloor'. Then reattach these base boards, caulk, repaint likely when you could have just bought a cheap "3/4" quarter round and did light touch up and caulk.
hahaha...this fausfloor dude has some amazingly AWFUL videos on Youtube. He needs to get a clue on how to properly install. A monkey could do it better.
hahaha clean look my ass try taking the baseboard off and using a tapping block not a pull bar... and you can run into problems with the boards separating tapping it down like that... slide it under casing with the board on an angle and the tap it in on the long side of the board...it works a lil better
I will like to know what the name of the blue thing that is under the floor because i want to buy some, but i dont know how ask for it on the store will u be so kind and tell me what is the name i will apreciated so much thanks for u time and for u video God bless u.
it is a vapor barrier or sound deadening underlayment material. It is like a carpet pad but much thinner and has a rubberish coating on top which is the blue you see. It can be found at lowes or Menards for 29.00 a roll and covers 100 sq feet I believe.
on doors where you have to go parrallel with halls etc. you need to first find out if your laminate is a good quality or lesser when it comes to locking mechanisms. the better will be able to connect at 'any' angle and can be set in place and just pullbar'd back to the rest of the floor. if not, cutting of the profile in the clicking mechanism and glue will be necessary....yuck eh? now for the rest of the tips, try to make the doors be in two peices so that you can put one peice at a time.yeehaw
use 3/4 quarter round and you dont have to worry about the base boards. to put it under the door jam when starting from other end, either sneak it inbetween the jamb and last door and use the beater bar "pull bar" to push back. or simply start reversal from the door and then go away from the door. the jamb seemed to be cut just a tad too high, thats why it doesn't look so clean, but for the baseboard, put the quarter round and it's done
i didn't know why quarter round was used historically until i built a new house and installed 8 inch high base board, now i know why. the base board cannot be forced to the floor the gap always had to be covered. with flexible quarter round.
Thanks for the video series - was a big help. Need another video with tips on how to get it under doors on a parallel wall - like a hallway with doors on both sides.
nice jam cut right into the base lol
adanacism 11 months ago
@adanacism What does it matter as anyone doing laminate would have shoe molding to cover it!
rsfeller 10 months ago
u suck....hahaha
adanacism 11 months ago
The reasoning for 3/4 quarter around is to let it flow with the unlevelness of the subfloor which makes the laminate not as level. Do this a few thousand times and I guarrantee that you will never get a perfect seam between base board and the floor. If so, then walk by the wall and watch the floor go down and away from the base board's bottom around the perimeter.
tuffman832000 1 year ago
I'm gonna go over this one at a time. Let's see here. @bs4u87, I want to know how many people want to score the caulk on baseboards, pull them off the wall possibly damaging them, put a floor down that is most likely not level 'because there is just no such thing as a perfect subfloor'. Then reattach these base boards, caulk, repaint likely when you could have just bought a cheap "3/4" quarter round and did light touch up and caulk.
tuffman832000 1 year ago
I need to install it horizontally under the door. Not vertically like this. Can anyone explain how to horizontally?
evcirca1996 1 year ago
hahaha...this fausfloor dude has some amazingly AWFUL videos on Youtube. He needs to get a clue on how to properly install. A monkey could do it better.
HappyLandFarms 1 year ago
that is a pretty fucked-up cut that you did under the door. Hopefully the owner does not see it. Cheers.
mettlddomami 1 year ago
hahaha clean look my ass try taking the baseboard off and using a tapping block not a pull bar... and you can run into problems with the boards separating tapping it down like that... slide it under casing with the board on an angle and the tap it in on the long side of the board...it works a lil better
bs4u87 1 year ago
clean look? it looks like my infant installed that floor...
gg0wned 1 year ago
Nice clean look with a gouged up base? Don't be so lazy and remove the base. How you going to get that last course in?
cquetsch 1 year ago
I will like to know what the name of the blue thing that is under the floor because i want to buy some, but i dont know how ask for it on the store will u be so kind and tell me what is the name i will apreciated so much thanks for u time and for u video God bless u.
usaguiserena 1 year ago
it is a vapor barrier or sound deadening underlayment material. It is like a carpet pad but much thinner and has a rubberish coating on top which is the blue you see. It can be found at lowes or Menards for 29.00 a roll and covers 100 sq feet I believe.
duaneafields 1 year ago
You call that a clean look?? I'm glad you won't be doing the installation at my house.
tabcan 2 years ago
thats good but what about your last row how r u going to get that under the baseboard?
nolanmontess87 2 years ago
not a clean job, you screwed up the baseboard on the undercut
gixxerjo 2 years ago
on doors where you have to go parrallel with halls etc. you need to first find out if your laminate is a good quality or lesser when it comes to locking mechanisms. the better will be able to connect at 'any' angle and can be set in place and just pullbar'd back to the rest of the floor. if not, cutting of the profile in the clicking mechanism and glue will be necessary....yuck eh? now for the rest of the tips, try to make the doors be in two peices so that you can put one peice at a time.yeehaw
tuffman832000 2 years ago
use 3/4 quarter round and you dont have to worry about the base boards. to put it under the door jam when starting from other end, either sneak it inbetween the jamb and last door and use the beater bar "pull bar" to push back. or simply start reversal from the door and then go away from the door. the jamb seemed to be cut just a tad too high, thats why it doesn't look so clean, but for the baseboard, put the quarter round and it's done
tuffman832000 2 years ago
i didn't know why quarter round was used historically until i built a new house and installed 8 inch high base board, now i know why. the base board cannot be forced to the floor the gap always had to be covered. with flexible quarter round.
datzfast 1 year ago
@tuffman832000 you shouldnt need to use quarter round if you kno hhow to do it right. it wasnt created to fix peoples crappy "craftsmenship"
bs4u87 1 year ago
That was not a nice clean look.
Sahowalia 2 years ago
Comment removed
bitemyboner 2 years ago
that looks to close to the wall o_o
catrashoo 2 years ago
Comment removed
Utube6762 2 years ago
How do you slide it under the door jam if you started at the other end of the room?
Utube6762 2 years ago
arent u supposed to instal the baseboard after the flooring
incisionsound 2 years ago
Thanks for the video series - was a big help. Need another video with tips on how to get it under doors on a parallel wall - like a hallway with doors on both sides.
wildblue52 2 years ago