Wow that looks really bad lol! I know the pruning i have done this year isn't the best and I'm learning but you gotta atleast have some knowledge of how to atleast cut a tree right! geez
@applenaut north central Iowa. past winters are what probably took them out. they go dormant in autumn. but lately it warms up mid winter before going cold again. bud out just to get deep frozen more than once. I have tried grafted dwarfs, standard trees, spaded transplants. frustrating.
@applenaut north central Iowa. lately winters have warmed up mid season long enough to bud out trees then slam back into sub arctic. I have tried grafted dwarfs (several times), standard trees, even had 3 mature producing trees brought in on a treespade. Everything has died in less than 2 years.
@applenaut I had 3 old apple trees that had trunks 2 feet across. A 'expert' "pruned" the trees in exchange for paying an outstanding bill. They were heavy producers and then nothing after pruning. I waited 6 years for some sign of apple before cutting them down for smoker wood. I have not been able to get another apple tree to grow since.
@BornRandy62 Sorry to hear about your "expert pruning". It happens all the time and I can't stress enough to pepole to ask for references before you let anyone touch your trees. That goes for Certified Arbourists too. My next question to you is what cultivars did you plant and what type of rootstock? Not all cultivars and rootstocks are hardy in a zone 4-5. The conditions you decribed do create havoc and the 2009-2010 season was disasterous for most of the continent.
@applenaut I tried several different rootstocks and checked to be sure they were hardy for the zones here if the tags were right. The grafted tops usually got killed but the roots survived. I would move the roots to a side plot to see what they turned into. One actually put on an apple after 7 or so years. But the hail storm knock the snot out of it :) so I had to prune the dead parts back. Havent had to tinker with the pear or cherry trees.
@BornRandy62 If the grafts are dying then A) the source of your trees maybe infected with Fire Blight, Anthracnose, Perennial or European Cankers (depending on the source) orB) they are just not cold hardy cultivars. The rootstock will produce fruit for they are a Malus species but usually they are small and only useful for cider. The walnuts may cause problems however I have a mature 30ft Carpathian within 25ft of 3 apples and I have no ill effects. Do you water and feed regularly?
@applenaut I dont know about the dead grafts. I gave up on dwarf trees and switched to standards. However the last incarnation of standards were the 3 mature trees I had spaded in. Those lasted 2 1/2 years until I noticed slipped bark. They were heavy producers before the move. They were in the way of a building project and were about to be cut down. I need to plant 3 or 4 new standards and see if they will survive a winter. They always seem healthy until the freeze cycle.
@BornRandy62 What time of year are you moving them? In your part of the continent early spring would be best to give them enough time to produce roots, not fruits, during the next couple of growing season. Especially in the case of a mature tree. The canopy should be pruned back to compensate for the root loss during the removing and planting process. Lots of bonemeal or transplant liquid in the hole and mixed into the transplanting soil is essential as well.
@applenaut we waited until spring for the frost to go out and the ground to firm up enough to handle the weight of the machinery. I put at least 75 gallons sometimes 100 gallons of well water (non chlorinated) on each tree each week. I used a water wagon to haul it so quantities were fairly simple to estimate. I did mulch the root balls heavily. I'm going back to planting standard trees to see if I can keep rabbits and weather from destroying them in winter months.
@BornRandy62 sounds to me you got mice,they love saying in the mulch,and eat the bark in the winter.some people think theyre rabbits but i assure you i've seen mice take fown entire orchards that let down their pest gaurd
@applenaut The last standard tree I planted from nursery stock lasted 2 years. I wrapped the bark to keep the rabbits from eating it off and the snow piled up high enough that they climbed over the guards and chewed the tree down just like a beaver would. Got to love living in the countryside.
@BornRandy62 If rabbits are chewing the bark and exposing the cambium around the circumference of the trunk then that is the problem. Once the cambium is exposed it will start to decicate and the flow of water and nutrients from the ground can't be completed. The result is everything above that damage will die. For your next planting just make a physical barrier they cannot compromise. Terriers work well too =:P
@applenaut Tree is long since used as smoker material. Bark Slipping. the outter bark split and shrank off the inner tree bark. Bunched up into big wrinkles and fell away from inner bark. I walked around and attempted to find green live bark on limbs and only found it less than 18 inches from ground level. I will try again this spring. Something has to grow.
@applenaut I should tell you that I have 7+ mature black walnut trees on the property so jugalone is present surface and subsurface. I dont know if it effects apple trees but it does grape vines. along with other stuff like tomato plants.
@BornRandy62 Growing dwarf trees in a high density oblique cordon would enable you to cover them in times of unexpected temperature drops. More cold hardy varieties like Honeycrisp, State Fair, Yellow Transparent, Wolf River, Haralson, Alexander,Antonovka or late bloomers like Court Pendu Plat, Merton Worcester, Edward VII may help as well. Mulching with straw around the roots may help too.
What I failed to mention is that this tree is dormant and not actively healing. So all of these pruning cuts are open to the canker spores that are active from Jan thru May here on the Pacific South Coast of Canada. There are even examples of healthy live branches being cut back and canker diseased branches right next to them allowed to remain. ALWAYS remove dead, diseased and damaged branches FIRST.
Wow that looks really bad lol! I know the pruning i have done this year isn't the best and I'm learning but you gotta atleast have some knowledge of how to atleast cut a tree right! geez
sslusshy 1 week ago
I have tried for over a decade to get apple trees to grow here. Cherry Plum and Pear do well but Apple has been an expensive folley to chase
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@BornRandy62 where do you live? If you can grow pears you should have no problem with apples.
applenaut 2 months ago in playlist Uploaded videos
@applenaut north central Iowa. past winters are what probably took them out. they go dormant in autumn. but lately it warms up mid winter before going cold again. bud out just to get deep frozen more than once. I have tried grafted dwarfs, standard trees, spaded transplants. frustrating.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@applenaut north central Iowa. lately winters have warmed up mid season long enough to bud out trees then slam back into sub arctic. I have tried grafted dwarfs (several times), standard trees, even had 3 mature producing trees brought in on a treespade. Everything has died in less than 2 years.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@applenaut I had 3 old apple trees that had trunks 2 feet across. A 'expert' "pruned" the trees in exchange for paying an outstanding bill. They were heavy producers and then nothing after pruning. I waited 6 years for some sign of apple before cutting them down for smoker wood. I have not been able to get another apple tree to grow since.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@BornRandy62 Sorry to hear about your "expert pruning". It happens all the time and I can't stress enough to pepole to ask for references before you let anyone touch your trees. That goes for Certified Arbourists too. My next question to you is what cultivars did you plant and what type of rootstock? Not all cultivars and rootstocks are hardy in a zone 4-5. The conditions you decribed do create havoc and the 2009-2010 season was disasterous for most of the continent.
applenaut 2 months ago
@applenaut I tried several different rootstocks and checked to be sure they were hardy for the zones here if the tags were right. The grafted tops usually got killed but the roots survived. I would move the roots to a side plot to see what they turned into. One actually put on an apple after 7 or so years. But the hail storm knock the snot out of it :) so I had to prune the dead parts back. Havent had to tinker with the pear or cherry trees.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@BornRandy62 If the grafts are dying then A) the source of your trees maybe infected with Fire Blight, Anthracnose, Perennial or European Cankers (depending on the source) orB) they are just not cold hardy cultivars. The rootstock will produce fruit for they are a Malus species but usually they are small and only useful for cider. The walnuts may cause problems however I have a mature 30ft Carpathian within 25ft of 3 apples and I have no ill effects. Do you water and feed regularly?
applenaut 2 months ago
@applenaut I dont know about the dead grafts. I gave up on dwarf trees and switched to standards. However the last incarnation of standards were the 3 mature trees I had spaded in. Those lasted 2 1/2 years until I noticed slipped bark. They were heavy producers before the move. They were in the way of a building project and were about to be cut down. I need to plant 3 or 4 new standards and see if they will survive a winter. They always seem healthy until the freeze cycle.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@BornRandy62 What time of year are you moving them? In your part of the continent early spring would be best to give them enough time to produce roots, not fruits, during the next couple of growing season. Especially in the case of a mature tree. The canopy should be pruned back to compensate for the root loss during the removing and planting process. Lots of bonemeal or transplant liquid in the hole and mixed into the transplanting soil is essential as well.
applenaut 2 months ago
@applenaut we waited until spring for the frost to go out and the ground to firm up enough to handle the weight of the machinery. I put at least 75 gallons sometimes 100 gallons of well water (non chlorinated) on each tree each week. I used a water wagon to haul it so quantities were fairly simple to estimate. I did mulch the root balls heavily. I'm going back to planting standard trees to see if I can keep rabbits and weather from destroying them in winter months.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@BornRandy62 sounds to me you got mice,they love saying in the mulch,and eat the bark in the winter.some people think theyre rabbits but i assure you i've seen mice take fown entire orchards that let down their pest gaurd
gunmanstunna 1 week ago
@applenaut The last standard tree I planted from nursery stock lasted 2 years. I wrapped the bark to keep the rabbits from eating it off and the snow piled up high enough that they climbed over the guards and chewed the tree down just like a beaver would. Got to love living in the countryside.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@BornRandy62 If rabbits are chewing the bark and exposing the cambium around the circumference of the trunk then that is the problem. Once the cambium is exposed it will start to decicate and the flow of water and nutrients from the ground can't be completed. The result is everything above that damage will die. For your next planting just make a physical barrier they cannot compromise. Terriers work well too =:P
applenaut 2 months ago
@BornRandy62 In not sure what you mean by "bark slipping". Can you post pictures?
applenaut 2 months ago
@applenaut Tree is long since used as smoker material. Bark Slipping. the outter bark split and shrank off the inner tree bark. Bunched up into big wrinkles and fell away from inner bark. I walked around and attempted to find green live bark on limbs and only found it less than 18 inches from ground level. I will try again this spring. Something has to grow.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@applenaut I should tell you that I have 7+ mature black walnut trees on the property so jugalone is present surface and subsurface. I dont know if it effects apple trees but it does grape vines. along with other stuff like tomato plants.
BornRandy62 2 months ago
@BornRandy62 I've read that black walnuts can produce growth inhibitors that can stunt the growth of apple trees near roots.
iamthemovie11 1 month ago
@BornRandy62 Growing dwarf trees in a high density oblique cordon would enable you to cover them in times of unexpected temperature drops. More cold hardy varieties like Honeycrisp, State Fair, Yellow Transparent, Wolf River, Haralson, Alexander,Antonovka or late bloomers like Court Pendu Plat, Merton Worcester, Edward VII may help as well. Mulching with straw around the roots may help too.
applenaut 2 months ago
yes great video
snowrider911911 2 months ago
Great video!
BananaJSSI 5 months ago
What I failed to mention is that this tree is dormant and not actively healing. So all of these pruning cuts are open to the canker spores that are active from Jan thru May here on the Pacific South Coast of Canada. There are even examples of healthy live branches being cut back and canker diseased branches right next to them allowed to remain. ALWAYS remove dead, diseased and damaged branches FIRST.
applenaut 1 year ago