How to develop B&W film with J Brunner, Pt 2

[krisb8781]

Those videos are awesome.

[ledzeppie]

I'd just like to say, you're facking hilarious.

[Ashleiiigh2010]

Haha i must be tired, i find you so funny.

But you're also so helpful;

thank you truly.

[rockhardandloud]

thanks for your response jake.. i'll consider that.

although i have seen videos of ansel printin barehand, no clippers, no gloves.

[alternativecamera]

@rockhardandloud We know a lot more now than we did then.

[rockhardandloud]

hello there. why do you use gloves? i am not using pyro or fancy stuff, but i use rodinal,diafine, tmax and whatever, and i even print with my bare hands. and i still have them intact ;p

is it nessesary?

cheers

[alternativecamera]

Repeated exposure to chemicals can often cause a cumulative dermal sensitivity. Once you reach that point, your developing days are done. I like to develop, and want to keep doing it, so I wear gloves. It's common sense.

[carmenloofah]

thanks for sharing

[akanathan]

I just developed my first roll of film ever tonight.

It worked but I need to get a real timer. I was using a clock so the times were sketchy.

[sebastijan32]

hi, I have the JOBO dozo to develop films and I was wondering how this works. I got it from an acquaintance

Greetings

[DaftWorld]

does it have to be 68˙? how do you get it to that temp?

[kraigus]

how do you keep it at that temperature?

[alternativecamera]

Hi guys, I use that kitty litter tray as a water tempering bath. The jugs etc, sit in the water in the tray. This will hold the temps close enough for long enough to develop. A degree or so won't make a lot of difference. It doesn'r have to be 68 (20C) but most things are calibrated for that. For other temps Ilford has a chart on their website that calculates time/temp variations.

[dragosselaru]

Hey youre videos are the best!! I watch them several times and youre style make me smile each time. I only use 35mm C41 films and i want to start deveolping, can you show us with youre unique style haw to develop a 35mm film? And tell us exactly what reel, tank and all that you are use. You can make it in high definition if you want and at least 4 parts will be ok.

Im a big fan :D.

[rikuwillkillu]

i like your humor makes the tutorial funny

[jazzyjames1990]

ok so what alkli fixer do u use i use ilford but its acid

[alternativecamera]

I use TF-4. I get it from The Photographers Formulary in MT. I think you can get it from Freestyle too.

[alternativecamera]

Umm.. I heard some people use an unbreakable (as in not the glass kind) aquarium heater. Of course I couldn't advise or endorse using a product like that for anything but its intended use. Just something I heard about....

[meserostalking]

I've done this before but I had a devil of a time keeping the temperature of the water bath at the right temperature. Do you have any suggestions?

Thank you for the video. I'm always fond of seeing how others do it, since I haven't much experience.

[tverrochi]

hey how do you get your jugs, graduates to not float around and tip over?

[alternativecamera]

I keep the water level in the tub down about 3 inches deep. Water transmits temperature much more effectively than air, so it only takes a bit if immersion to temper the chems.

[harly30]

Master!!

[lex24boi]

Slightly overexposed... that's classic!

[zloyzerg]

thanks for nice video series!

Is it ok to use boiled or otherwise non-distilled water when diluting?

[alternativecamera]

Hi zloyzerg, it completely depends on your local water quality. I get away with "Britta" filtered water for mixing my chems, and regular tap water for washing. If your water quality is good, and not too hard, that's usually fine. Boiling water will only concentrate impurities (minerals) in the remaining water.

[jazzyjames1990]

heyy aesome video i tryed the water stop bath for a while i notice that its really hard on the fixer. and all indicater stop is is acedic acid which is vinigar so nextime you develope try putting a bit of vinigar in it

[alternativecamera]

Hey Jazzyjames,

You are correct about the fixer, however the developing methods I use are acid free, and the developers and the fix I use is alkali, so for what I do, an acid stop isn't appropriate. If you want to use a water stop and be easy on the fixer a second water rinse in the stop stage will remove most carry forward from the developer.

[slctrout]

Dig JB's pragmatic approach - it isn't rocket science!