O yeah hey man back again! But where and what kinda valves did you use to switch the fuels? I just got a 100 gallon tank and a used greascar kit for 600$ =p and will probably use a hotfox pickup and a flatplate exchange to get the oil hot. My problem is finding good quality parts to build the rest of the missing system parts that's all.
Hey there! I used two valves, one was a Pallock 6way valve (for fuel supply and a Greasecar 3way for return. I'm pretty sure this is different than the greasecar setup, because I use my Pallock valve so that when I am on Diesel, the WVO system is able to loop up through the engine compartment and get heated, and then dump back in the WVO tank (helping to warm the tank). And when I'm on WVO, the valve also controls a relay that shuts the Diesel lift pump off. Does that make sense?
hmm have you had any issues with the pallock valve? Sooo many people on forums scream that that valve will fail/leak/ and cross contaminate fuels. Have you had any issues yet with it? I was thinking of just rocking with 2 3 way valves and ditch the pallock, but the valve is very simple which I really like.
Yes, but not on the stock pistons. You need 18:1 compression pistons and head studs in there to run such high boost pressure. I wouldn't trust high boost on a stock 6.5 engine. 12-15psi is ok, though.
I wondering how long this is going to last. I am running my 6.5TD on WVO as well and people say the IP will quit within 3000mi. I put 12k mi on the truck with veg and still no problem. One thing I noticed that on regular diesel my glow plugs always have soot on them when you pull one out. With veg on the other hand they come out perfectly clean.
As far as engine life or IP life on WVO... If done properly WVO should actually be better for the engine. WVO is a higher lubricant and burns much cleaner than Diesel. However if not done properly... BAD NEWS! My first conversion was junk. I mean BAD! :( It lasted 3000 miles and blew the IP. This one has run flawlessly for about 8000 miles on top of that! :) With a few modifications to this setup (come summer), I should be all good! :)
I clean my wvo very carefully. I work at a University and I do pH testing and adjustments to my wvo. That is after filtering it by centrifuging (I sell these centrifuges too). I also mix in 10% regular gas in the winter, plus diesel conditioner, which keeps the oil from gelling completely at -30 and colder. You get flakes, but not complete solidification. My '02 Cummins doesn't like wvo. The VP44 IP always gets hick-ups and trips codes and the engine smokes badly, despite heating and stuff.
Well there are a few main things that can blow your IP. Bad oil obviously, but assuming you've got great oil the things to watch out for is a proper fuel pressure (4-9 psi), hot oil, and virtually no back pressure on the return line of the IP. The problem with my first setup is that the return line was set up as a closed loop system in front of the pump, consequently ending up with equal pressure on both sides of the pump. Not good!
I may have also had some dirty oil, but that closed loop system definitely needed to go. The main problem that I'm having right now is getting consistant fuel pressure. My pump is a ProComp Black pump with a fuel pressure setting at 9 psi. It doesn't stay at 9 psi though, it jumps anywhere from 9 psi to 25 psi. :/ Also NOT GOOD! You do not want to over run your pump with fuel pressure like that.
The added pressure messes with the inside of the IP and you actually ends up advancing your timing, which is actually quite nice until the IP blows (which according to Stanadyne it most likely will). So anything over 12 psi should be dealt with ASAP. Still not sure what to do here. But other than that, make sure you're able to purge your system well after shutting off and it seems really healthy.
I've got about 20,000 on my new conversion and it's happy as a clam! No signs of stopping, and I recently took it on a 1800mi cross country trip no problems. I love WVO! :)
Also, I'd scrap the glow plug heater that I have in this video for a Flat Plate heat exchanger. Seriously, way better and worth the money. Also scrap the fuel pressure regulator unless you can find one that the WVO won't eat.
Mine is a '98. I built the system myself, because I heard a lot of bad things from other guys who relied on purchased kits. They experienced horrible faliures during -25 to -40 degrees C up here in Canada. I am planning to build a long block crate motor specifically for wvo, just in case this current engine fails (again; happened a number of times BEFORE I ran it on wvo.)
I fitted a 160L tank out of a '99 Suburban with a finned coolant coil inside and installed in my truck where the spare tire would normally sit. The fuel supply and return lines are 1/2 inch and 5/16, respectively. Both lines are inside 1" heater hose. The hot water supply comes from the top of the cylinderheads right at the firewall (modified the two coverplates with hose barbs). Hot water first heats the wvo fuel filter, then it comes out of that and goes down under the cab to the wvo tank.
Man I want to do the same thing to my 2000 6.5. Too bad I blew a rod and waiting on a long block. But besides do you know if any of the 100 gallon toolbox tank combos are any good to work with? Is it hard to install a heater inside of them?
Those tanks are great! And think of the oil in cold temperatures like crystallized honey. It'll flow a little, but not much. So all you need to do is heat the space right around where you're going to put your fuel pickup, and you're set. Once the oil gets sucked up the fuel lines it gets heated much hotter, so no problems then. I just have a copper pipe 'U' going down to the bottom of the tank. No problems with that even at -30 degrees.
O yeah hey man back again! But where and what kinda valves did you use to switch the fuels? I just got a 100 gallon tank and a used greascar kit for 600$ =p and will probably use a hotfox pickup and a flatplate exchange to get the oil hot. My problem is finding good quality parts to build the rest of the missing system parts that's all.
steelraptor 2 years ago
Hey there! I used two valves, one was a Pallock 6way valve (for fuel supply and a Greasecar 3way for return. I'm pretty sure this is different than the greasecar setup, because I use my Pallock valve so that when I am on Diesel, the WVO system is able to loop up through the engine compartment and get heated, and then dump back in the WVO tank (helping to warm the tank). And when I'm on WVO, the valve also controls a relay that shuts the Diesel lift pump off. Does that make sense?
JonathanErber 2 years ago
hmm have you had any issues with the pallock valve? Sooo many people on forums scream that that valve will fail/leak/ and cross contaminate fuels. Have you had any issues yet with it? I was thinking of just rocking with 2 3 way valves and ditch the pallock, but the valve is very simple which I really like.
steelraptor 2 years ago
You say you want to change something about your 4psi boost pressure? I hope you know that the 6.5 does not take a lot of boost before it blows up.
5point9straightsix 3 years ago
I've heard it'll take 15 no problem. I know a lot of guys here on youtube are pushing 25 psi!
JonathanErber 2 years ago
Yes, but not on the stock pistons. You need 18:1 compression pistons and head studs in there to run such high boost pressure. I wouldn't trust high boost on a stock 6.5 engine. 12-15psi is ok, though.
5point9straightsix 2 years ago
Well seeing as I don't think 18:1 pistons are in my budget any time soon, I'll probably leave it at 13psi then. :)
JonathanErber 2 years ago
I wondering how long this is going to last. I am running my 6.5TD on WVO as well and people say the IP will quit within 3000mi. I put 12k mi on the truck with veg and still no problem. One thing I noticed that on regular diesel my glow plugs always have soot on them when you pull one out. With veg on the other hand they come out perfectly clean.
5point9straightsix 3 years ago
Interesting about the WVO being so clean!
As far as engine life or IP life on WVO... If done properly WVO should actually be better for the engine. WVO is a higher lubricant and burns much cleaner than Diesel. However if not done properly... BAD NEWS! My first conversion was junk. I mean BAD! :( It lasted 3000 miles and blew the IP. This one has run flawlessly for about 8000 miles on top of that! :) With a few modifications to this setup (come summer), I should be all good! :)
JonathanErber 3 years ago
I clean my wvo very carefully. I work at a University and I do pH testing and adjustments to my wvo. That is after filtering it by centrifuging (I sell these centrifuges too). I also mix in 10% regular gas in the winter, plus diesel conditioner, which keeps the oil from gelling completely at -30 and colder. You get flakes, but not complete solidification. My '02 Cummins doesn't like wvo. The VP44 IP always gets hick-ups and trips codes and the engine smokes badly, despite heating and stuff.
5point9straightsix 3 years ago
What did you do wrong? I am building a custom system and was wondering what kills the IP prematurely. Thanks
steelraptor 2 years ago
Well there are a few main things that can blow your IP. Bad oil obviously, but assuming you've got great oil the things to watch out for is a proper fuel pressure (4-9 psi), hot oil, and virtually no back pressure on the return line of the IP. The problem with my first setup is that the return line was set up as a closed loop system in front of the pump, consequently ending up with equal pressure on both sides of the pump. Not good!
JonathanErber 2 years ago
I may have also had some dirty oil, but that closed loop system definitely needed to go. The main problem that I'm having right now is getting consistant fuel pressure. My pump is a ProComp Black pump with a fuel pressure setting at 9 psi. It doesn't stay at 9 psi though, it jumps anywhere from 9 psi to 25 psi. :/ Also NOT GOOD! You do not want to over run your pump with fuel pressure like that.
JonathanErber 2 years ago
The added pressure messes with the inside of the IP and you actually ends up advancing your timing, which is actually quite nice until the IP blows (which according to Stanadyne it most likely will). So anything over 12 psi should be dealt with ASAP. Still not sure what to do here. But other than that, make sure you're able to purge your system well after shutting off and it seems really healthy.
JonathanErber 2 years ago
I've got about 20,000 on my new conversion and it's happy as a clam! No signs of stopping, and I recently took it on a 1800mi cross country trip no problems. I love WVO! :)
JonathanErber 2 years ago
Also, I'd scrap the glow plug heater that I have in this video for a Flat Plate heat exchanger. Seriously, way better and worth the money. Also scrap the fuel pressure regulator unless you can find one that the WVO won't eat.
JonathanErber 2 years ago
BTW: What year is your 6.5L TD? Also, where did you get your conversion?
JonathanErber 3 years ago
Mine is a '98. I built the system myself, because I heard a lot of bad things from other guys who relied on purchased kits. They experienced horrible faliures during -25 to -40 degrees C up here in Canada. I am planning to build a long block crate motor specifically for wvo, just in case this current engine fails (again; happened a number of times BEFORE I ran it on wvo.)
5point9straightsix 3 years ago
I fitted a 160L tank out of a '99 Suburban with a finned coolant coil inside and installed in my truck where the spare tire would normally sit. The fuel supply and return lines are 1/2 inch and 5/16, respectively. Both lines are inside 1" heater hose. The hot water supply comes from the top of the cylinderheads right at the firewall (modified the two coverplates with hose barbs). Hot water first heats the wvo fuel filter, then it comes out of that and goes down under the cab to the wvo tank.
5point9straightsix 3 years ago
Man I want to do the same thing to my 2000 6.5. Too bad I blew a rod and waiting on a long block. But besides do you know if any of the 100 gallon toolbox tank combos are any good to work with? Is it hard to install a heater inside of them?
steelraptor 2 years ago
Those tanks are great! And think of the oil in cold temperatures like crystallized honey. It'll flow a little, but not much. So all you need to do is heat the space right around where you're going to put your fuel pickup, and you're set. Once the oil gets sucked up the fuel lines it gets heated much hotter, so no problems then. I just have a copper pipe 'U' going down to the bottom of the tank. No problems with that even at -30 degrees.
JonathanErber 2 years ago