rcgrabbag - its a good thing to share and be of help to each other - glad I could do so.
Test each light (SMD LED) as you go and you can adjust the illumination with a resistor value to suit. Just make sure you insulate the SMD's - I use super glue over the whole SMD.
I used fiber optic for the markers and carefully drilled the holes using a pin vice and new drill. The FO has a LED of course and I drill a hole in the LED the same size as the FO or I use a 0603 glued to the FO inside. The FO outboard end is flared using heat to shap it like a mushroom. - L
@scoopmmr Fantastic info, scoop. Thanks so much. So far I've stripped down and re-lubed the B unit, installed a TCS decoder in the B unit, and an SMD in the tender light. There was also a light in the B unit to light up the inside. I've replaced that with an LED. I installed a high freq speaker in the B unit and a high bass in the A, just as you did. Next is a tear down/re-lube of the A unit, followed by the lighting/decoder install. I'm nervous about this part, but your tips have helped alot!
@scoopmmr Whew! Well, the job is done, following the steps you've outlined. The only differences is that I tried one of the new QSI Titan decoders, which are highly modifiable. They have stereo sound, so I was able to put the turbine sound exclusively on the high freq speaker in the center unit, and the diesel engine on the high bass speaker in the lead unit. I left a little bleedover for each engine on both speakers to round it out a bit.
@scoopmmr I was nervous drilling out the marker lights, but it went very well and turned out perfectly. The mushrooming of the optical fiber turned out really well. They look exactly like the lenses I drilled out. Thanks again for all the advice. I have pics on my website (url same as my youtube name).
@scoopmmr OK, hopefully the last question. The two marker lights on either side of the headlight appear to be clear lenses with opaque backing. Is this correct? Did you remove these lenses to install the smd's? If so, do you have a recommended technique? Did you replace the lenses with other clear lenses? Ok, that wasn't just one question...
@scoopmmr Thanks for the info. How about the marker lights and main headlight? Are the marker lights optical fiber? I just picked up one of these the other day, one of Overland's Diamond series. Fantastic detail, even inside the turbine area with all the plumbing detail.
rcgrabbag - its a good thing to share and be of help to each other - glad I could do so.
Test each light (SMD LED) as you go and you can adjust the illumination with a resistor value to suit. Just make sure you insulate the SMD's - I use super glue over the whole SMD.
Regards, Laurie
scoopmmr 2 weeks ago
I used fiber optic for the markers and carefully drilled the holes using a pin vice and new drill. The FO has a LED of course and I drill a hole in the LED the same size as the FO or I use a 0603 glued to the FO inside. The FO outboard end is flared using heat to shap it like a mushroom. - L
scoopmmr 1 month ago
@scoopmmr Fantastic info, scoop. Thanks so much. So far I've stripped down and re-lubed the B unit, installed a TCS decoder in the B unit, and an SMD in the tender light. There was also a light in the B unit to light up the inside. I've replaced that with an LED. I installed a high freq speaker in the B unit and a high bass in the A, just as you did. Next is a tear down/re-lube of the A unit, followed by the lighting/decoder install. I'm nervous about this part, but your tips have helped alot!
rcgrabbag 1 month ago
@scoopmmr Whew! Well, the job is done, following the steps you've outlined. The only differences is that I tried one of the new QSI Titan decoders, which are highly modifiable. They have stereo sound, so I was able to put the turbine sound exclusively on the high freq speaker in the center unit, and the diesel engine on the high bass speaker in the lead unit. I left a little bleedover for each engine on both speakers to round it out a bit.
rcgrabbag 2 weeks ago
@scoopmmr I also wired the rear tender light to the center unit's decoder so the light would come on in reverse.
rcgrabbag 2 weeks ago
@scoopmmr I was nervous drilling out the marker lights, but it went very well and turned out perfectly. The mushrooming of the optical fiber turned out really well. They look exactly like the lenses I drilled out. Thanks again for all the advice. I have pics on my website (url same as my youtube name).
rcgrabbag 2 weeks ago
All the lighting is using Surface Mount Device (SMD) LEDs - chip size 0603.
scoopmmr 1 month ago
@scoopmmr OK, hopefully the last question. The two marker lights on either side of the headlight appear to be clear lenses with opaque backing. Is this correct? Did you remove these lenses to install the smd's? If so, do you have a recommended technique? Did you replace the lenses with other clear lenses? Ok, that wasn't just one question...
rcgrabbag 1 month ago
Yes, a separate decoder in the centre unit working the motor - a mobile (non-sound) Tsunami or a TCS T1.
Laurie.
scoopmmr 2 months ago
@scoopmmr Thanks for the info. How about the marker lights and main headlight? Are the marker lights optical fiber? I just picked up one of these the other day, one of Overland's Diamond series. Fantastic detail, even inside the turbine area with all the plumbing detail.
rcgrabbag 1 month ago
Are you using a separate decoder in the center unit, or just the one Tsunami decoder providing power to all three motors?
rcgrabbag 2 months ago
do not understand. You have me a web page instructions?
sorry, no further proof, find nothing
StevoD11RCD 6 months ago
Stevo check out the Y-tube vid = "sound of the turbine" by gerry
As I said, I do all my programming using decoder pro and this sets all the lights and functions by the click of a mouse
scoopmmr 7 months ago
HI,
it's me again:) have now the tsunami Booster PTB-100. Can you please tell me how can set:
1.Start Turbine CV 200 = __? Data with F5 and OFF
2.Start Diesel Sound by F9 CV__ ? and OFF (NOT Mute) look your video by 0:03 sec
3. Marslight ON by F6 CV__? Now only lights by F6!
4. Steam Adresse is CV1 = 15 is right
what I can do you good?
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
StevoD11RCD 7 months ago
This loco has room for a smoker.
scoopmmr 7 months ago
Hey man, nice job. What do you think to instal smoke generators on this loco?
evortigosa 7 months ago
Than you very much, i have this buyed
StevoD11RCD 7 months ago
Yes, a PTB-100 is the best for Prog-boost.
scoopmmr 7 months ago
The Soundtraxx {PTB-100} PROGRAMMING TRACK BOOSTER ?
Is this good?
StevoD11RCD 7 months ago
I use Decoder Pro to adjust the settings
scoopmmr 7 months ago
HI,
i have this Athearn with Soundtraxx.
how you made the setting:
Turbine power on and off? Sound of Diesel? NOT F8 Mute
Mars Light with F6
Thanks
StevoD11RCD 7 months ago
Excelent!.
Can you show us how to do the electrical pickups on the tender?
Thanks!
katherinestation 11 months ago