@Meteoris Hi. I have a Z5500 (bought a year ago). The control pod failed and got it warrantied so I'm now using the Z5500's with a bypass cable. For some reason though the front left channel is about 20dB (about 90%) quieter than the other channels. I tried two different bypass cables and its' the same result. What could this be? A blown opamp?
Thanks. Problem is there are 2 versions. Pods with pid #'s 635 and down pods with pid #'s 636 and up. I have no idea why Logitech would do this but the lower numbered pods won't work with the higher ones and the higher numbered pods won't work with the lower ones. Crazy!
@WhippJunior Not necessarily... my Z5500 has basic functions in those wires... there's nothing digital over the wire so it should be just fine working with any other pod. Basically, the POD that I have does some heavy DSP on it's own, passes by the signal back to the amps and commands them to mute or not when it's the case and that's all. If all PODS do this... then it's the same with all...
@Meteoris Hi! I wonder: What PID does your device have and if you could possibly take your time and make a spreadsheet of the things you wired. I have the same inside components like your and i have not found any good threads about this model. Just pm me if you have some spare time to do the spreadsheet.
@WhippJunior I don't see why it would not be possible :-) The problem is understanding the wire functions which are very specific. But I would assume that the same function is performed by both pods... so yes... I would say that it's definitely possible!
All TDA are hot (not too much, but hot) without any sound coming out, do you think I have to change them all? Control POD seems to be fine. TDA chips are very hard to deseoldering (non lead solder), any advice to desoldering this??
Im having a ssue thats making me really bummed. I turn on thepod and the screen stays lit for about 5 seconds before fadeing away. The LEDS work fine its just the lettering and I get no sound.
Im having a ssue thats making me really bummed. I turn on thepod and the screen stays lit for about 5 seconds before fadeing away. The LEDS work fine its just the lettering and I get no sound.
u seem you know alot on logitech z-5500. i having a problem. the sub is making a humming sound which is affecting all speaker as well. u think ist it one of the the op-amp chips? i'm not a technian but if that the case it may help me pin point the fault to my friend..
@OnionMad is it only when you rotate the knob or when the volume gets over some limit?
If the answer is A then it's the know. If it's B then you have a problem with a TDA in your amp most probably...
Op amps usually fry and mute out completely... but I guess anything is possible... check for an overheating chip... should be easy to identify: with no sound it should be pretty hot... change it and you're good to go.
@y2k420kmh Logitech uses TDA7293V for the Z-5500 amplifier. TDA7294 is an suitable replacement if the originals fail because atleast here in finland, the -94's are easier to attain.
Hey man i need you help i have the sub and all the speakers nothings fried but i have no pod i have a 7.1 channel PC and i was wonder what to wire to the sub so i can use it with its 5.1 channel out just need to now what wire from PC to SUB thanks
Hey Meteoris, I'm not getting any sound from my front left and right speakers, any idea what the issue could be?? Right now, the only way I can have a decent sound is to use the 2 rear (left and right) inputs and set it to Stereo X2 but then all I can use is the 2 speakers and sub, to use the center speaker, I have to set it to one of the Dolby modes but then it's just center, rears, and sub.....no front sound at all.
@derekfsm: Can be the op-amps for front or even the amps themselves. You cannot know for sure until you open up the sub. If you cannot manage ask for a friend which knows stuff about electronics, he(she)'ll be able to spot the problem right away. I could help you but I'm guessing the geographical distance is a show stopper.
@Meteoris I'm in Winchester, KY, where are you? I've opened it up and looked around but I don't really know what I'm looking for. Usually all I look for is popped caps and the usual suspects.....haven't really dealt with op-amps before. I know what they look like but I don't know which one I'm suppose to be checking out, there are a few on the board.
hi, what was the symptom of the opamp being fried? did one or both the channels associated with that opamp crackle and/or stop working entirely? my rear speakers dont output any audio but they crackle at a constant volume. regardless anything else. ive already replaced the rear power amps - no change, i was impatient and took a wild but cheap guess.
It was easy to detect it by hand as it was getting pretty hot and it's not normal for those little chips to get hot at all.
Just check for the little black op-amps with 2x4 pins. Use a finger to check the temperature and if it's hot... replace it! You can replace it with a big one as I did or if you're skilled and have the necessary tools you can replace it even with a SMD one such are the ones employed in the original setup. Keep the spares!
Hey Dude.. great video! I have a problem with my Z5500... it stop working after a power surge... keep blowing fuses.. If i disconnect the yellow and black cables that go to the board the fuse dont blow don´t blow, neither power on (of course).... any tips? Is there ant easy way to test the op-amps? Thks a lot!
Hmm. Tough problem... You'll need to check stage by stage the power assembly. First the transformer (don't blow any more fuses, it's useless) which I'm assuming it's ok from what you say, then you should somehow be able to disconnect the power rectifier and regulator from the rest of the circuit (you'll need to cut into PCB circuit and then reconnect if necessary) and check it out independently. Then you'll need to check the power amps and then the rest. Look for visible damage, browned stuff...
I've clicked wrongly and I've deleted your last post (stupid YT putting that close these options!), sorry for that!
I've read that all TDAs are fried. That's not that bad. They can be easily replaced and are not at all expensive (or should NOT be expensive!). Take care and stay relax. Anything that's electronic can be fixed!
Hmm... Nope! You could however mount a fan on top of the back radiator. If you make it blow over it with some very low RPM so no additional noise is created... That would be a good idea. Mine is still without such an apparel and it's still working fine. Just let it have enough space at the back so the convection air currents cool it passively.
leogariba's post: "Dude... thanks for answer! All TDA7294 are gone! I'll sent it for repair in some eletronic service center... =/" that' I've deleted, sorry again!
Hey, my Z5500 system just stopped working the other day. I was watching a movie and all of a sudden it turned off and wouldn't turn back on. I checked the fuse, and it's intact. I also opened up both the control unit and the sub box itself and neither seem to show major damage or anything out of the ordinary.
I've got basic electronics knowledge and have a DMM and some soldering experience, so where should I start looking to diagnose & fix the problem? Any common failure points? Thanks!
To provide some more insight into what works and what doesn't in my case, when I flip the power switch on the back and put my ear up to the enclosure, I can hear a (60hz, i assume) buzzing from what I guess is the transformer. Hope that helps...
If you've opened it then check: AC output voltages from the transformer, DC voltages (you need to spot the proper points on the board to do the measurements). Try to "un-mute" the amps with my trick and see if they're still working. Check the cable to the pod. It might be damaged. Does the pod powerbutton lits up red when powered?
The pod power button doesn't light up at all. The cable going to the pod looked fine last time I looked, but I'll check it out more thoroughly. By "un-muting" the amps do you mean disconnecting them from the pod and making them work as a standalone amp?
As for checking the DC voltages, an EE friend suggested making sure the two voltage regulators (78/79M18) are working properly and supplying the right DC voltage (I assume they are after the rectifiers).
Sorry for my late reply, I just don't have the time these days... By unmuting, yes, I mean trying to see if the amps work by themselves without the pod. Yes, you should also check the voltage regulator if you can and you are willing to do it. Have your friend do it for you if possible.
Don't worry, the pod's back now and it's working as it should. I've used it only for a short time without the pod and the mod you've seen here in the vid. I had no choice because someone tried on the pod wire and ruptured it. Had to shorten it and do checks from 10 cm to 10 cm, nasty job but it payed of.
okay so i'm pretty sure i blew a capacitor or a chip on my board. I tested the pod with my friends system and the fuse is fine. I was playing the system at boost 11 at a party with bookshelf speakers hooked up to it (i know im an idiot) i went in with a volt meter tester and im getting power to the coil and to the pod. there is a small brown spot on the board that i believe something is fried there. Can you help me man? also i can put up a video so you can see what im talking about. thanks
1 question. I've done the same thing...2 subs 1 console...just not the way you did it...I just made a splitter from console to both subs.
so the question is...the power from sub to console...does it double in my case or not...it's working fine it's just the fealling that something is not as it should be =).
If the subs are perfectly identical there should be no problem. However, if you joined one on one the wires in the cable you've also joined the power lines. Since it's about the same voltage from both subs it should be ok. Practicaly there's always a little difference. I don't think it matters.
The console should be ok. It gets a little bit more current same voltage tho. Nothing bad should happen.
It's called "Dancing Alone" and it's been reworked by a friend of mine with my assistance which is (or is trying to be) in the music industry as an artist (he is calling himself eKlipSe).
It was released on a very limited CD edition called "Sun" along with eKlipSe's work ("Sun" is his first CD album) as a bonus track.
I don't think you'll find the song somewhere else but here :-)
i agree you shouldnt mess about with them...if you did want the 2 subs and one pod then plug the speakers into 1 sub and put the others away in a cupboard or something :P
Im using Windows Vista 32bits.I have those speakers.they all work.But when I go in PanelContrl,Sound,Speakers,Configure,I select 5.1 surround and the Center don't play sound in the test.can someone please tell me how come?It's weird.
Stupid question, I have to ask: Do you have a sound card capable of 5.1 output ? That's three stereo jacks at the back of the sound card. For music you need to have some X-Fi-like card with some surround effect to have all 5 speakers working or you can use the Dolby setting on the pod...
I would be wise and tell you not to use the boost. The pod does some strange dynamic shaping to keep the speakers within a quality envelope. If you still want to use the boost feature, listen for distorsions. If the speakers start distorting put a cap on the volume there. If you want more power then try something else than Z5500 or take a chance and max it out. When running at high volume make sure the fins on the back of the sub ar at least far away from the wall and have some minimal venting.
Hmm could it hurt if one of the speakers fell the the ground from about 1 metre? Hope I haven't damaged my front speaker because this happened. It fell on one of the sides.
I don't have a diagram but I can help you with directions and and wiring ideeas. Message me and I'll see how I can help. Also check the vid info, it contains a link with some pictures with the cable mapping.
The point is that if you have the Central Pod crashed down you can still use the system with it's amps and speakers.
I've recently hooked back the Central Pod and I can tell you that there's a significant DSP stuff inside the console. Without the Pod you had to handle the individual volumes to cap them to the point of distorsions (non-linear scaling of individual speakers). This stuff is dealt by the Central Pod. Smart thingie !
Well... it was easy on the theoretical part, harder on the phisical (63 screws to unscrew and screw back). You just have to un-mute the amps by connecting 3 wires to a +7.5 volt line inside the sub then the amp is always on and you just feed it with analogue signal (aka direct 6 channels). After doing this it's sort of like running on Boost 22 all the time (without the hissing noise in the background). I think the pod is doing some signal shapeing or something like this. I kind of miss it...
@Meteoris Hi. I have a Z5500 (bought a year ago). The control pod failed and got it warrantied so I'm now using the Z5500's with a bypass cable. For some reason though the front left channel is about 20dB (about 90%) quieter than the other channels. I tried two different bypass cables and its' the same result. What could this be? A blown opamp?
arshamskrenes 2 months ago
@arshamskrenes YUP!
Meteoris 2 weeks ago
Comment removed
lewkys 6 months ago
Thanks. Problem is there are 2 versions. Pods with pid #'s 635 and down pods with pid #'s 636 and up. I have no idea why Logitech would do this but the lower numbered pods won't work with the higher ones and the higher numbered pods won't work with the lower ones. Crazy!
WhippJunior 6 months ago
@WhippJunior Not necessarily... my Z5500 has basic functions in those wires... there's nothing digital over the wire so it should be just fine working with any other pod. Basically, the POD that I have does some heavy DSP on it's own, passes by the signal back to the amps and commands them to mute or not when it's the case and that's all. If all PODS do this... then it's the same with all...
Meteoris 6 months ago
@Meteoris Hi! I wonder: What PID does your device have and if you could possibly take your time and make a spreadsheet of the things you wired. I have the same inside components like your and i have not found any good threads about this model. Just pm me if you have some spare time to do the spreadsheet.
ThePucko97 2 months ago
Great Post! Quick question. Is there any way to make an older pod work with a newer version speaker and vice versa?
WhippJunior 7 months ago
@WhippJunior I don't see why it would not be possible :-) The problem is understanding the wire functions which are very specific. But I would assume that the same function is performed by both pods... so yes... I would say that it's definitely possible!
Meteoris 6 months ago
Hello and thanks for sharing.
All TDA are hot (not too much, but hot) without any sound coming out, do you think I have to change them all? Control POD seems to be fine. TDA chips are very hard to deseoldering (non lead solder), any advice to desoldering this??
nanodocl 8 months ago
Im having a ssue thats making me really bummed. I turn on thepod and the screen stays lit for about 5 seconds before fadeing away. The LEDS work fine its just the lettering and I get no sound.
XxIngSocxX 8 months ago
Im having a ssue thats making me really bummed. I turn on thepod and the screen stays lit for about 5 seconds before fadeing away. The LEDS work fine its just the lettering and I get no sound.
XxIngSocxX 8 months ago
u seem you know alot on logitech z-5500. i having a problem. the sub is making a humming sound which is affecting all speaker as well. u think ist it one of the the op-amp chips? i'm not a technian but if that the case it may help me pin point the fault to my friend..
omarbar87 9 months ago
how does it sound when an op-amp is fried?
/my sound cracks alot when i increase the volume a good bit... any ideas why this might be?
OnionMad 1 year ago
@OnionMad is it only when you rotate the knob or when the volume gets over some limit?
If the answer is A then it's the know. If it's B then you have a problem with a TDA in your amp most probably...
Op amps usually fry and mute out completely... but I guess anything is possible... check for an overheating chip... should be easy to identify: with no sound it should be pretty hot... change it and you're good to go.
Meteoris 11 months ago
does Logitech use tda 7293 / 7294 for the amp. can anyone tell me plz
y2k420kmh 1 year ago
@y2k420kmh Logitech uses TDA7293V for the Z-5500 amplifier. TDA7294 is an suitable replacement if the originals fail because atleast here in finland, the -94's are easier to attain.
Wargene 11 months ago
Hey man i need you help i have the sub and all the speakers nothings fried but i have no pod i have a 7.1 channel PC and i was wonder what to wire to the sub so i can use it with its 5.1 channel out just need to now what wire from PC to SUB thanks
1800Supreme 1 year ago
music links are dead, can we get a new one or the artists name at least to find it. SoundHound app failed to find it.
00firebird 1 year ago
Hey Meteoris, I'm not getting any sound from my front left and right speakers, any idea what the issue could be?? Right now, the only way I can have a decent sound is to use the 2 rear (left and right) inputs and set it to Stereo X2 but then all I can use is the 2 speakers and sub, to use the center speaker, I have to set it to one of the Dolby modes but then it's just center, rears, and sub.....no front sound at all.
derekfsm 1 year ago
@derekfsm: Can be the op-amps for front or even the amps themselves. You cannot know for sure until you open up the sub. If you cannot manage ask for a friend which knows stuff about electronics, he(she)'ll be able to spot the problem right away. I could help you but I'm guessing the geographical distance is a show stopper.
Meteoris 1 year ago
@Meteoris I'm in Winchester, KY, where are you? I've opened it up and looked around but I don't really know what I'm looking for. Usually all I look for is popped caps and the usual suspects.....haven't really dealt with op-amps before. I know what they look like but I don't know which one I'm suppose to be checking out, there are a few on the board.
derekfsm 1 year ago
Watch my video of my own Z-5500 making my house shake...
Gvenge 1 year ago
Wow, looks like some of the soldering have been done in a hurry!
Sxkcils 1 year ago
@Sxkcils You could say that again :-D
Meteoris 1 year ago
@Sxkcils mass production...
TRABdude 1 year ago
howmuch tda7294-s it has, and howmuch of em drive subwoofer, whats the subwoofer resistance.
Xteam500 1 year ago
hi, what was the symptom of the opamp being fried? did one or both the channels associated with that opamp crackle and/or stop working entirely? my rear speakers dont output any audio but they crackle at a constant volume. regardless anything else. ive already replaced the rear power amps - no change, i was impatient and took a wild but cheap guess.
munkywrench86 2 years ago
My op-amp affected only the front-left speaker.
It was easy to detect it by hand as it was getting pretty hot and it's not normal for those little chips to get hot at all.
Just check for the little black op-amps with 2x4 pins. Use a finger to check the temperature and if it's hot... replace it! You can replace it with a big one as I did or if you're skilled and have the necessary tools you can replace it even with a SMD one such are the ones employed in the original setup. Keep the spares!
Meteoris 2 years ago
@Meteoris what amp ic's are used lm3876? just thinking?
shockflyyer3d 1 year ago
@shockflyyer3d main AMPS:tda7294 + OpAmps: LM458 (I had it replaced with a 358, the one that fried).
Meteoris 1 year ago
@munkywrench86 1. left front channel dead; 2.very hot op amp when powered on.
Meteoris 1 year ago
Hey Dude.. great video! I have a problem with my Z5500... it stop working after a power surge... keep blowing fuses.. If i disconnect the yellow and black cables that go to the board the fuse dont blow don´t blow, neither power on (of course).... any tips? Is there ant easy way to test the op-amps? Thks a lot!
leogariba 2 years ago
Hmm. Tough problem... You'll need to check stage by stage the power assembly. First the transformer (don't blow any more fuses, it's useless) which I'm assuming it's ok from what you say, then you should somehow be able to disconnect the power rectifier and regulator from the rest of the circuit (you'll need to cut into PCB circuit and then reconnect if necessary) and check it out independently. Then you'll need to check the power amps and then the rest. Look for visible damage, browned stuff...
Meteoris 2 years ago
I've clicked wrongly and I've deleted your last post (stupid YT putting that close these options!), sorry for that!
I've read that all TDAs are fried. That's not that bad. They can be easily replaced and are not at all expensive (or should NOT be expensive!). Take care and stay relax. Anything that's electronic can be fixed!
Meteoris 2 years ago
Hi.. can i install a fan cooler inside ???
superpana51 2 years ago
Hmm... Nope! You could however mount a fan on top of the back radiator. If you make it blow over it with some very low RPM so no additional noise is created... That would be a good idea. Mine is still without such an apparel and it's still working fine. Just let it have enough space at the back so the convection air currents cool it passively.
Meteoris 2 years ago
leogariba's post: "Dude... thanks for answer! All TDA7294 are gone! I'll sent it for repair in some eletronic service center... =/" that' I've deleted, sorry again!
Meteoris 2 years ago
dude grate video :) could you do me a faver and have a look at my new video
its logitech big problem !
you will see what i meen :D
take care man
regisfun 2 years ago
Thanks !
Meteoris 2 years ago
Hey, my Z5500 system just stopped working the other day. I was watching a movie and all of a sudden it turned off and wouldn't turn back on. I checked the fuse, and it's intact. I also opened up both the control unit and the sub box itself and neither seem to show major damage or anything out of the ordinary.
I've got basic electronics knowledge and have a DMM and some soldering experience, so where should I start looking to diagnose & fix the problem? Any common failure points? Thanks!
norappers 2 years ago
To provide some more insight into what works and what doesn't in my case, when I flip the power switch on the back and put my ear up to the enclosure, I can hear a (60hz, i assume) buzzing from what I guess is the transformer. Hope that helps...
norappers 2 years ago
If you've opened it then check: AC output voltages from the transformer, DC voltages (you need to spot the proper points on the board to do the measurements). Try to "un-mute" the amps with my trick and see if they're still working. Check the cable to the pod. It might be damaged. Does the pod powerbutton lits up red when powered?
Meteoris 2 years ago
The pod power button doesn't light up at all. The cable going to the pod looked fine last time I looked, but I'll check it out more thoroughly. By "un-muting" the amps do you mean disconnecting them from the pod and making them work as a standalone amp?
As for checking the DC voltages, an EE friend suggested making sure the two voltage regulators (78/79M18) are working properly and supplying the right DC voltage (I assume they are after the rectifiers).
Thanks for your help
norappers 2 years ago
Sorry for my late reply, I just don't have the time these days... By unmuting, yes, I mean trying to see if the amps work by themselves without the pod. Yes, you should also check the voltage regulator if you can and you are willing to do it. Have your friend do it for you if possible.
Meteoris 2 years ago
how loud did you have it?
willie14n 2 years ago
Don't worry, the pod's back now and it's working as it should. I've used it only for a short time without the pod and the mod you've seen here in the vid. I had no choice because someone tried on the pod wire and ruptured it. Had to shorten it and do checks from 10 cm to 10 cm, nasty job but it payed of.
Meteoris 2 years ago
okay so i'm pretty sure i blew a capacitor or a chip on my board. I tested the pod with my friends system and the fuse is fine. I was playing the system at boost 11 at a party with bookshelf speakers hooked up to it (i know im an idiot) i went in with a volt meter tester and im getting power to the coil and to the pod. there is a small brown spot on the board that i believe something is fried there. Can you help me man? also i can put up a video so you can see what im talking about. thanks
Frank
tank305 2 years ago
I've sent you a message.
Meteoris 2 years ago
I just sent you a message with the pic links!
Thanks a ton
Frankie
tank305 2 years ago
this video was totally awesome.. my pod is malfunctioning for sometime now and this may be helpful.
thanks :D
superasn 2 years ago
I was wondering if you tell me how can I turn on the SUB without the Control Pod. I know very electonics. Thanks a lot!
miguelulbrich 2 years ago
Just watch the vid and the annotations. It's all there.
Meteoris 2 years ago
Updated the vid with adnotations. I think it's all pretty clear now.
Just watch the vid and get all the information you need.
Make sure you watch the HQ version of it !
Meteoris 2 years ago
much more advanced then I thought :O
Kaninerness 2 years ago
Thankyou.
Great speakers BTW ;)
primozcorpse 2 years ago
hi!
1 question. I've done the same thing...2 subs 1 console...just not the way you did it...I just made a splitter from console to both subs.
so the question is...the power from sub to console...does it double in my case or not...it's working fine it's just the fealling that something is not as it should be =).
HF
primozcorpse 2 years ago
If the subs are perfectly identical there should be no problem. However, if you joined one on one the wires in the cable you've also joined the power lines. Since it's about the same voltage from both subs it should be ok. Practicaly there's always a little difference. I don't think it matters.
The console should be ok. It gets a little bit more current same voltage tho. Nothing bad should happen.
Meteoris 2 years ago
So boring
ProtegeTuype 2 years ago
And you wasted already enough time writing this comment... how bad for you :-)
Meteoris 2 years ago
Could I ask what song that was? Please and Thanks. =)
Btw I also own a Z-5500, and Even without a Sound card it is Extremely amazing vs alot of other speaker systems.
Shoulon 3 years ago
The song is mine :-)
It's called "Dancing Alone" and it's been reworked by a friend of mine with my assistance which is (or is trying to be) in the music industry as an artist (he is calling himself eKlipSe).
It was released on a very limited CD edition called "Sun" along with eKlipSe's work ("Sun" is his first CD album) as a bonus track.
I don't think you'll find the song somewhere else but here :-)
Meteoris 3 years ago
Well I liked the song. But still any chance I could get a copy since I might not be able to find it else where?
Shoulon 3 years ago
I've update video info with links to three versions of the same tune. Enjoy listening !
Meteoris 3 years ago
Is it possible to connect other speakers (not the ones, that come in the box) to the connectors shown at the very beginning of the vid?
firestrikeAT 3 years ago
Sure! That's the idea with those connectors !
No plugs to care for, plug your wires and that's it. You can plug anything to it if it's around or the same specifications as the original ones.
Meteoris 3 years ago
So you rekon i could plug my mission speakers into these ? 8ohms 75 watts max
wax333 3 years ago
Absolutely !
If you want to be extra-careful just don't use the boost feature or if you use it make sure the fins on the back of the sub are ventilated.
Meteoris 3 years ago
why not use a headphone splitter :P
nath0987 2 years ago
And that woud do...
... what ?
Meteoris 2 years ago
no....if you got 2 sets join them with a headphone splitter....easy and simple...
rather then wire it up by opening up the casing :P
nath0987 2 years ago
That's if you have both pods working. What if you have just the subs and only one pod ? What then ?
Ofcourse if you have two perfectly working Z5500 you shouldn't mess with them :-)
Meteoris 2 years ago
i agree you shouldnt mess about with them...if you did want the 2 subs and one pod then plug the speakers into 1 sub and put the others away in a cupboard or something :P
nath0987 2 years ago
Hmm.... not quite. It's actually easy to power up the sub if you know a little bit of electronics...
Meteoris 2 years ago
Hi.
Im using Windows Vista 32bits.I have those speakers.they all work.But when I go in PanelContrl,Sound,Speakers,Configure,I select 5.1 surround and the Center don't play sound in the test.can someone please tell me how come?It's weird.
Thanks a lot for helping.
noo2islam 3 years ago
get a new computer... Jj, actually buy a soundcard
pwND001 3 years ago
Stupid question, I have to ask: Do you have a sound card capable of 5.1 output ? That's three stereo jacks at the back of the sound card. For music you need to have some X-Fi-like card with some surround effect to have all 5 speakers working or you can use the Dolby setting on the pod...
Meteoris 3 years ago
That's a good question.I have those 5 entry ways + an optical entry.I use the 5 plug-in for my PC and the optical for my Xbox360.
My sound card is a SoundMax BlackHawk.
Thank you.
noo2islam 3 years ago
at max volume with 50%center 50%rear and 100%sub woofer at 22boost can damage them?and what is the max volume i can play without damage the speakers
al3xxThEUnDeRtAkEr 3 years ago
I would be wise and tell you not to use the boost. The pod does some strange dynamic shaping to keep the speakers within a quality envelope. If you still want to use the boost feature, listen for distorsions. If the speakers start distorting put a cap on the volume there. If you want more power then try something else than Z5500 or take a chance and max it out. When running at high volume make sure the fins on the back of the sub ar at least far away from the wall and have some minimal venting.
Meteoris 3 years ago
Hmm could it hurt if one of the speakers fell the the ground from about 1 metre? Hope I haven't damaged my front speaker because this happened. It fell on one of the sides.
ptjk 3 years ago
If you have any questions about Z5500 feel free to ask them here or over a private message. I'll try to answer all of them.
Meteoris 3 years ago
Man, I would really appreciate a diagram, I have a couple of these subs laying around.
39E10 4 years ago
I don't have a diagram but I can help you with directions and and wiring ideeas. Message me and I'll see how I can help. Also check the vid info, it contains a link with some pictures with the cable mapping.
Meteoris 4 years ago
Thanks, I appreciate it.
39E10 4 years ago
Nice, but what is the point to this? are you now using the system with a home cinema receiver?
rowanlloyd123 4 years ago
The point is that if you have the Central Pod crashed down you can still use the system with it's amps and speakers.
I've recently hooked back the Central Pod and I can tell you that there's a significant DSP stuff inside the console. Without the Pod you had to handle the individual volumes to cap them to the point of distorsions (non-linear scaling of individual speakers). This stuff is dealt by the Central Pod. Smart thingie !
Meteoris 4 years ago
WOWOWOW, how did you do this??
logitechsubs 4 years ago
Well... it was easy on the theoretical part, harder on the phisical (63 screws to unscrew and screw back). You just have to un-mute the amps by connecting 3 wires to a +7.5 volt line inside the sub then the amp is always on and you just feed it with analogue signal (aka direct 6 channels). After doing this it's sort of like running on Boost 22 all the time (without the hissing noise in the background). I think the pod is doing some signal shapeing or something like this. I kind of miss it...
Meteoris 4 years ago
So after this, you cant control the volume of the Z-5500 by itself?
logitechsubs 4 years ago
After the mod the system is a plain amplifier with no control by itself whatsoever to the volume.
All the controls you can do are only from the soundcard in the PC or ... the audio system you're hooking it up to (Direct 6 channels/Analogic only).
Recently I've hooked up back the Central Pod. I'll be back with a vid to it.
Meteoris 4 years ago