Added: 10 months ago
From: bandersentv
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  • I believe that later monochrome sets (made after colour broadcasts were introduced) had a "chroma notch" filter, to prevent chroma dots appearing on-screen.

  • @Jamiep84  I think you're right.

  • Comment removed

  • The amazing thing about those "chroma dots" is that engineers have made a computer algorithm to analyze the pattern of the dots and use it to recreate and decode the color signal. Using this method, they were able to reproduce true color versions of old TV shows which were originally broadcast in color but for which only black & white kinescope copies existed (movie films made by aiming the camera at the CRT of a black & white TV receiver).

  • @vwestlife I was watching some Dr Who recently from the John Pertwee era (3rd Doctor). It was called 'The Ambassadors of Death' and they lost the original color videos long ago. Some segments had been colorized using the process you described. They looked OK, but not quite right.

  • @bandersentv “It seemed almost impossible,” ... “But when they made the black-and-white recordings, they didn’t filter off the colour carrier [encoded as a 'chroma dot' pattern in each frame], which for the last few decades has been nothing more than an annoyance.” Team member Richard Russell used the signal to reverse-engineer raw colour pictures that could be retouched frame by frame. “It’s very, very labour intensive — several hundred man hours’ work every episode,” says Roberts.

  • you can also use just the luminance pins of an S-video output to get the same effect, your RF modulator may even have S-video you can get that off of too, hope that helps.

  • @grassulo Thanks for the tip.  Some of my equipment supports s-video. I'll do some more experimenting.

  • Excellent restoration Bob. Congrats!

  • What is the Japanese anime you were playing at the end?

  • @FelixTheHouseFreak Ghost in the Shell Stand Alone Complex 2nd Gig. It's a TV series based on the movie.

  • In terms of things like grille cloth I've heard that you can have it dry cleaned if need be, I've tried washing a few and they ended up shrinking or coming apart, the ones that came apart were probably rotten to begin with. I've been thinking that a shellac stick using the burning in method might be the best way to hid deep scratches in Bakelite, my grandfather used to repair burn marks and dens in wooden furniture this way but I have never tried it.

  • @OlegKostoglatov  I've never used shellac sticks before, but I'd like to learn how. Seems like a really handy technique.

  • I'm surprised that the contact cement didn't eat into that plastic lens while you were trying to glue on that gasket, I've had troubles with paint damaging some of the clear plastics from back then, maybe it used something different? The plastic they used for the bezel on a Zenith TO 600 is very easily damaged by solvents for example. From what I here the best way to strip paint from plastic is DOT 3 brake fluid, it doesn't work instantly but it does take it off.

  • @OlegKostoglatov I used it sparingly and it didn't seem to harm the plastic. It's also fairly thick stuff and sets up quick. Kinda like rubber cement.

  • Really nice job, Bob. Learned a lot of interesting stuff from your work on this set.

    Also, playing Ghost in the Shell on a vintage set is brilliant. I get a kick sometimes out of playing modern stuff on my old radios. I've tuned in the local hip-hop FM station on my Philco a couple of times. I bet no one ever anticipated music like that coming out of that radio!

  • @caiserECEguy Thanks. The first DVD I grabbed to test the color 'chroma dots' issue was 'Ed Wood'. Then I remembered it's in B&W !

  • Its starting to warm up bob, time for some more cabinet work :-)

  • @THEtechknight You read my mind.  I've already started stripping a cabinet ;-)

  • That is a beautiful TV set and you did a fantastic job restoring it. I wish it were in my living room. Thanks for putting this video series together, I learned a lot from this.

  • @Edison1252 Thanks. I'm glad you liked it. I'll be doing a similar video on my Admiral 24C16 which is at the same stage of completion.

  • That set has a really sharp picture! I've noticed that older B&W sets have a warm coloring and newer ones seem slightly blueish and cold, were phosphors changed over the years?

  • @tasmith1969 I think the phosphor is the same, but newer CRTs are aluminized. That's a very thin layer of aluminum deposited over the phosphor. It prevents ion burns and produces a brighter bluish white image.

  • @tasmith1969 Depends in the type of set. Ive noticed aluminized CRTs have more blue of a color, whilst non-aluminized are more white.

    But thats what i have seen personally.

  • I'm pretty sure I remember reading about that dot pattern on a vintage TV site (wish I could remember which, right offhand). They called it "raster dots" and it was, indeed, caused by the color portion of the signal. B&W sets made after about the mid-50's were designed to ignore it.

  • One more thing: If you have a video card w/ an S-Video output, it may have come w/ an composite dongle. If you still have it & your RF modulator has an S-Video input, feed your converter box in that way (i.e. DTV->Dongle->RFMod->TV). I remember trying one in reverse, w/ my TV, & could only get a B&W picture.

  • @Madness832 I do have a PC I use as a multimedia center, but it's currently down. I think the harddrive died :( I'll do some experimenting once it's up and running again.

  • @Madness832 I did a little searching online and found them referring to as "chroma dots" Perhaps a 3.58 MHZ notch filter would eliminate them ?

  • wonderful,your attention to detail always blows me away bob.such a great looking

    set,would love having one

  • @chompo7 Thanks. It's one of my favorite sets and I really wanted to do it right.

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