Stainless is not the best choice for that component IMO, I would rather use a top strength hi tensile bolt, i.e. marked 12.9. Stainless can fail under shearing (side) forces particularly, hence not advised for motorcycle footrests or disc bolts.
A2 and A4 on stainless just tells you how corrosion resistant it is, the other number is strength, eg. 70 or 80. The 80 grade is strongest but only as strong as 8.8 hi tensile. Use BZP zinc plated hi tensile, cheap black finish rusts too easily.
I would like to see where it is fixed on the bike normally. However for a 10mm diameter "thing" to break must mean that that a crack has propagated across the part (metal fatigue), look for "tide marks" and polished bits before a "crystalline" bit.
Early bathtub failure but should be covered under warranty.
@EdinburghFixed Face it, you're just too strong! Might be worth checking the grade of the replacement bolt, normally I insist on A2 or A4 stainless for anything critical on the bike. Hope the bike's up and running again!
mate you're asking to get flattened riding something that low to the ground on public roads......... blind spots.?
stu0189 1 year ago
Oh Shit! I´ll have to check it.
ZEVNAtv 1 year ago
Stainless is not the best choice for that component IMO, I would rather use a top strength hi tensile bolt, i.e. marked 12.9. Stainless can fail under shearing (side) forces particularly, hence not advised for motorcycle footrests or disc bolts.
A2 and A4 on stainless just tells you how corrosion resistant it is, the other number is strength, eg. 70 or 80. The 80 grade is strongest but only as strong as 8.8 hi tensile. Use BZP zinc plated hi tensile, cheap black finish rusts too easily.
nigglenoo 1 year ago
Woah, that's a little scary.
Got any Feedback from Arnold (Raptobike) how this could happen?
Maybe I should include "checking idler bolt" to my periodic maintenance on my own Raptobike ;-)
ppeters77 1 year ago
That'll teach you to ride a bike with gears :p
;)
drsquirrel0 1 year ago
B|ummer, is that the bent off the road for a few days; how long does it take to get new parts?
HLaB75 1 year ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
thats what you get for riding a fuckin stupid bike haha
savetheboobies 1 year ago
@savetheboobies when you're old enough for your mummy to let you out alone, maybe you can try one - if you're not such a bloater that you'd crush it!
EdinburghFixed 1 year ago 9
@savetheboobies stupid comment but I like your username LOL.
04smallmj 1 year ago
I would like to see where it is fixed on the bike normally. However for a 10mm diameter "thing" to break must mean that that a crack has propagated across the part (metal fatigue), look for "tide marks" and polished bits before a "crystalline" bit.
Early bathtub failure but should be covered under warranty.
finbat 1 year ago
@finbat aye, there was a new bolt sent in the post straight away, so it's no big deal really.
It's funny to watch though, especially in the slow motion (reminds me of breaking a chain, but of course normally you can't see this happening!)
EdinburghFixed 1 year ago
@EdinburghFixed Face it, you're just too strong! Might be worth checking the grade of the replacement bolt, normally I insist on A2 or A4 stainless for anything critical on the bike. Hope the bike's up and running again!
polbecca 1 year ago 4