I've built some of the aircraft in this series and they flew well (Mustang, Chipmunk, Trojan and Skyraider) but I have no club experience or fellow builders to consult with. I built mine with 2 coats of thinned dope and followed the plans, building from the kit. Your's flies much better, of course. I'm glad that mine simply could fly. Any links to pictures of your models?
I didn't use any dope on my model. It is also quite light because I substituted contest balsa for most of the kit wood. I have a site of my models - there is a link on my You Tube profile or you can use scaleflight period net.
Nice work! I'm currently building this same model. It's my second attempt at a rubber flight model. It's on the guillow's forum. My question is do you ever any problems with smudging when you print graphics onto tissue with your computer? I tried this with mixed results. It seems on Japanese tissue everything smudged a little in my printer, but on domestic tissue I had pretty good results. I taped my tissue to the printer paper, I'll have to try glueing next time. What tissue are you using?
I have had problems with smudging on Japanese tissue. It happens because the tissue is smoother & does hold the ink as well. For the Trojan, I used domestic tissue, mainly because it is more opaque. Tape or glue probably doesn't make much difference, but having no folds or wrinkles makes a difference. You can get rid of wrinkles by pre-shrinking the tissue on a frame. Also printing a faded image twice on the same sheet worked well for me, although occasionally the 2 images do not line up.
Perfect flight! I'm currently building a Guillow's Cub. Its my first stick and tissue build, so I'm having to learn a lot. How did you do the trainer paint scheme? Is that a different color tissue or can you paint the tissue? I want to do my Cub in the traditional yellow and black and was thinking about using a sharpie for decorating. What's your method, if you don't mind me asking?
I used a color laser printer to print directly onto the tissue. The edges of the tissue need to be glued onto a piece of paper in order to be fed into the printer.
It will be difficult to get clean artwork with a sharpie & there is no room for error. I suggest using black tissue for trim. You will get best results by cutting the tissue on a cutting mat using an exacto & a steel ruler. The tissue can be held in place on the mat with a touch of a UHU glue stick. A printer would also work well
@1rocketscientist When I built my 2 cubs, I first used colored dope, the second one I used colored tissue. The second one turned out better than the first, but different color tissue can be hard to find.
I replace most of the kit wood with contest balsa. In many places, like the tail, I thinned down the outlines of the wood frames. I also used 1/32 wood instead of 1/20 for a lot of the pieces.
I've built some of the aircraft in this series and they flew well (Mustang, Chipmunk, Trojan and Skyraider) but I have no club experience or fellow builders to consult with. I built mine with 2 coats of thinned dope and followed the plans, building from the kit. Your's flies much better, of course. I'm glad that mine simply could fly. Any links to pictures of your models?
MJD595 1 year ago
I didn't use any dope on my model. It is also quite light because I substituted contest balsa for most of the kit wood. I have a site of my models - there is a link on my You Tube profile or you can use scaleflight period net.
scaleflight 1 year ago
Nice work! I'm currently building this same model. It's my second attempt at a rubber flight model. It's on the guillow's forum. My question is do you ever any problems with smudging when you print graphics onto tissue with your computer? I tried this with mixed results. It seems on Japanese tissue everything smudged a little in my printer, but on domestic tissue I had pretty good results. I taped my tissue to the printer paper, I'll have to try glueing next time. What tissue are you using?
krobbro 1 year ago
I have had problems with smudging on Japanese tissue. It happens because the tissue is smoother & does hold the ink as well. For the Trojan, I used domestic tissue, mainly because it is more opaque. Tape or glue probably doesn't make much difference, but having no folds or wrinkles makes a difference. You can get rid of wrinkles by pre-shrinking the tissue on a frame. Also printing a faded image twice on the same sheet worked well for me, although occasionally the 2 images do not line up.
scaleflight 1 year ago
Perfect flight! I'm currently building a Guillow's Cub. Its my first stick and tissue build, so I'm having to learn a lot. How did you do the trainer paint scheme? Is that a different color tissue or can you paint the tissue? I want to do my Cub in the traditional yellow and black and was thinking about using a sharpie for decorating. What's your method, if you don't mind me asking?
1rocketscientist 2 years ago
I used a color laser printer to print directly onto the tissue. The edges of the tissue need to be glued onto a piece of paper in order to be fed into the printer.
It will be difficult to get clean artwork with a sharpie & there is no room for error. I suggest using black tissue for trim. You will get best results by cutting the tissue on a cutting mat using an exacto & a steel ruler. The tissue can be held in place on the mat with a touch of a UHU glue stick. A printer would also work well
scaleflight 2 years ago
@1rocketscientist When I built my 2 cubs, I first used colored dope, the second one I used colored tissue. The second one turned out better than the first, but different color tissue can be hard to find.
skyspydude1 1 year ago
did you use the kit wood or did you use your own?
DerGergl 2 years ago
I replace most of the kit wood with contest balsa. In many places, like the tail, I thinned down the outlines of the wood frames. I also used 1/32 wood instead of 1/20 for a lot of the pieces.
scaleflight 2 years ago