@Hitomi3138 it can be purchased through the internet, not sure what the shipping costs would be. If you have a hardware store or paint/finish store I would try them first.
@Hitomi3138 I wouldn't recommend it touching it, though if you were to touch it very briefly I don't think it would harm anything. Basically you don't want to get it so hot that it discolors. It should be sold in Columbia as a 2 part epoxy.
im from europe and i would like to use the resin in jewelry but here i cant find suitable resin ,so if U would be so kind to give me some link where i can order some .Tnx
beauiful work. but the guy said they apply liquid glass to every inch of the product , the bottom and back of back splash are still exposed to water and rot. just a note
@karmma44 Thanks for the feedback, as our vanities are made to be used right side up and the back splashes adhered to the wall and caulked around, the backs of the back splashes and the bottom of the vanity tops don't see any water. A properly installed sink and faucet will ensure that water doesn't seep/leak to the underside of the vanity top.
We currently manufacture Bespoke Tables here in the UK and use MDF , primed in AC primer, digitally printed with UV inks and then finish with high gloss AC lacquer. The dried / cured top- lacquer coat is then burnished resulting in a piono finish. Problem we have is the dark colours show the scratch marks - do you think Epoxy Resin finish would be less resistant to scratching ?
Incidentally, is it okay to apply the second coat without sanding? I always sand with 400g after the first coat sets up so it has a good physical bond.
Great work! I follow the same exact process, only difference is that I use the spreader to wipe off the drips periodically as the resin sets up- three or four times is enough to get almost all of it. Makes it a lot easier to sand, saving time and money in sandpaper.
The Red Oak was a real pain to seal in the air (keep the air from coming up) We did the usual apply three sealer coats of urethane sealer but it still came through. What worked was mixing 3% by weight of denatured alcohol to the epoxy mixture and apply it in two thin applications 24 hours apart. Then we put three layers of epoxy on top and it came out perfect!
Well I just restored a 40 year old resin table and made an applicator like what you use. I purposely mixed much less than normal and still covered it. This application method works incredibly effective getting an even distribution. After proving how well it worked I did a 55 foot bartop made of Red Oak using this technique works fantastic! The customer built the top and we went on site to cover it and it wasn't perfectly level and using your application method helps alleviate puddling.Thank you
BTW, thatt's really nice work!!!!!!!! Twombly's in Cocoa Beach does the same thing but sometimes we put fabrick under resin and looks nice too. Another look but not the beauty of wood!
@beachnative420 that sounds really unique! What are you making that puts fabric under resin? We've had a few ideas come in from customers about insetting poker chips on poker tables in the resin and doubloons. Most time consuming job was filling a 3" thick pub table top that had a big wide check in the wood. we had to do quite a few layers to build it up to where it was a solid top, yet when done you could see right through it.
Thank god you guys are doing it right there as far as getting the air out, NEVER USE A HAIR DRYER it blows lint and whatever is in the shop's air around. As far as waiting a week before the next layer, that's a joke. Everyone knows that you can pu another layer on after 16 hours if not sooner depending on the cure time. Also why not us e a brush for the application? 1st coat as thin as possible then thicker layers later? Sealing is the key to this step.
@beachnative420 it's not a cheap process to do especially when figuring in labor and the labor involved in removing it. The joke would be screwing it up. At the time the video was done it was extremely humid and we had already had to redo 1 top because after 3 days we figured it was dry enough and we ended up with fingerprints in the 1st coat. Why use a brush when there is a chance of hairs ending up in the finish? We will use the applicator which spreads it to the correct thickness.
@JHELogFurniturePlace As far ass the brush hairs go? I sure know what you mean, LOL. I've done literally thousands of tables and have hadd that problem. I like the mill gauge for thickness!!! I found that getting a new brush and loading it up with epoxy and setting it up with the hairs up for while then rinsing in acetone and not completely claening it makes the brush stiffer and keeps the brush hair in works for me....most of the time...but not always. I'm going to try your technique today : )
@JHELogFurniturePlace As far as the brush hairs go? I sure know what you mean, LOL. I've done literally thousands of tables and have hadd that problem. I like the mill gauge for thickness!!! I found that getting a new brush and loading it up with epoxy and setting it up with the hairs up for while then rinsing in acetone and not completely claening it makes the brush stiffer and keeps the brush hair in works for me....most of the time...but not always. I'm going to try your technique today : )
@beachnative420 great tip on the brush, thanks a lot! we are going to use that tip when we are doing sink cutouts, seal around the edge instead of just pouring over it. Thanks again!
@beachnative420 we apply 2 thicker layers. the 1st coat is thinner than the 2nd, but still thicker than a poly of course as this is not a poly finish. We have found that 2 layers like this offers the best protection and desired look
@426superb yes, at the time the video was taken it was super humid and all finishes were taking 3 times longer to dry. When humidity is normal it takes just a day or two.
Will this epoxy move with the wood as it expands and contracts? Most resins form tiny cracks after a while. Let's say you have a large hole 2 fingers thick in a table, and you want to fill it in with this finish, is that possible?
@Mueiwark yes, you sure can fill up holes, cracks,etc. It looks amazing too. For customers wanting something extra special we use a lot of boards that have rot or knot holes missing, large checks/cracks, etc and fill up the voids with the liquid glass. It's time consuming but the end result just looks amazing. You just have to lay something on the underside of the void that the epoxy will release from when cured.
@206425 always something to prep for - make sure you are in a clean clean room or you will be redoing the finish. flies and flying things seem to love flying into fresh pours also so keep an eye out for them or make sure there aren't any wherever you are pouring.
@MrToby129 it is pretty much impossible to sand out the bubbles - at least spot sand and have it look good. Any imperfection or fix will be visible. If we discover a bubble we typically just start over.
sorrry, but I am from Colombia (southamerica) and I was wondering if I could buy it here in my country, or if I can get it through Internet. Thanks!
Hitomi3138 3 weeks ago
@Hitomi3138 it can be purchased through the internet, not sure what the shipping costs would be. If you have a hardware store or paint/finish store I would try them first.
JHELogFurniturePlace 3 weeks ago
@JHELogFurniturePlace thank you very much for the information!
Hitomi3138 3 weeks ago
CAN THE TORCH TOUCH THE LIQUID GLASS?? i REALLY LIKE THE PROCESS ...HOW CAN WE GET THIS IN COLOMBIA?
Hitomi3138 3 weeks ago
@Hitomi3138 I wouldn't recommend it touching it, though if you were to touch it very briefly I don't think it would harm anything. Basically you don't want to get it so hot that it discolors. It should be sold in Columbia as a 2 part epoxy.
JHELogFurniturePlace 3 weeks ago
@JHELogFurniturePlace thamks... I really enjoyed it...it is really beautiful!
Hitomi3138 3 weeks ago
@Hitomi3138 thanks a lot for your feedback! We appreciate it.
JHELogFurniturePlace 3 weeks ago
USE an dam mask man! Do you know how bad epoxy fumes are bad for you?
bigsbyfreak 1 month ago
What brand of glass would you recommend?
How did you finish the live edge? Thanks
jenfall1 2 months ago
cool, and also interesting in the yellowing
OceanStateTuning 2 months ago
epoxy resins tend to get yellow over the years,how do you cope with that?
zaostrog 3 months ago
im from europe and i would like to use the resin in jewelry but here i cant find suitable resin ,so if U would be so kind to give me some link where i can order some .Tnx
zaostrog 3 months ago
After all this,, apply the nano coating called liquid glass,, or neverwet.
gracefulreverie 3 months ago
beauiful work. but the guy said they apply liquid glass to every inch of the product , the bottom and back of back splash are still exposed to water and rot. just a note
karmma44 4 months ago
@karmma44 Thanks for the feedback, as our vanities are made to be used right side up and the back splashes adhered to the wall and caulked around, the backs of the back splashes and the bottom of the vanity tops don't see any water. A properly installed sink and faucet will ensure that water doesn't seep/leak to the underside of the vanity top.
JHELogFurniturePlace 3 months ago
Great finish - is it scratch resistant ?
We currently manufacture Bespoke Tables here in the UK and use MDF , primed in AC primer, digitally printed with UV inks and then finish with high gloss AC lacquer. The dried / cured top- lacquer coat is then burnished resulting in a piono finish. Problem we have is the dark colours show the scratch marks - do you think Epoxy Resin finish would be less resistant to scratching ?
bgagroupgroup 4 months ago
@bgagroupgroup it isn't very scratch resistant, but the scratches can be buffed out pretty easily.
JHELogFurniturePlace 3 months ago
I guess it's not flamable then.
MrLeonard55 4 months ago
i like dis video
ROUDY209 4 months ago
Beautiful...
gollumthedog 5 months ago
Incidentally, is it okay to apply the second coat without sanding? I always sand with 400g after the first coat sets up so it has a good physical bond.
CragarShinoda 5 months ago
Great work! I follow the same exact process, only difference is that I use the spreader to wipe off the drips periodically as the resin sets up- three or four times is enough to get almost all of it. Makes it a lot easier to sand, saving time and money in sandpaper.
CragarShinoda 5 months ago
@CragarShinoda nice tip on the drips, that would make it a lot easier to sand.
JHELogFurniturePlace 5 months ago
The Red Oak was a real pain to seal in the air (keep the air from coming up) We did the usual apply three sealer coats of urethane sealer but it still came through. What worked was mixing 3% by weight of denatured alcohol to the epoxy mixture and apply it in two thin applications 24 hours apart. Then we put three layers of epoxy on top and it came out perfect!
beachnative420 5 months ago
@beachnative420 great tip with the denatured alcohol. I appreciate that. We are going to use that trick next time we do black walnut. Thanks a lot!
JHELogFurniturePlace 5 months ago
Well I just restored a 40 year old resin table and made an applicator like what you use. I purposely mixed much less than normal and still covered it. This application method works incredibly effective getting an even distribution. After proving how well it worked I did a 55 foot bartop made of Red Oak using this technique works fantastic! The customer built the top and we went on site to cover it and it wasn't perfectly level and using your application method helps alleviate puddling.Thank you
beachnative420 5 months ago
@beachnative420 glad to hear it!
JHELogFurniturePlace 5 months ago
Cool Video, where can I get the plastic applicator at?
blbarchi 5 months ago
i think 2 coats are better than 1 deffently but if i dont have a flame gun can i put it under the sun and the bubbles will go or not
osama559 5 months ago
BTW, thatt's really nice work!!!!!!!! Twombly's in Cocoa Beach does the same thing but sometimes we put fabrick under resin and looks nice too. Another look but not the beauty of wood!
beachnative420 6 months ago
@beachnative420 that sounds really unique! What are you making that puts fabric under resin? We've had a few ideas come in from customers about insetting poker chips on poker tables in the resin and doubloons. Most time consuming job was filling a 3" thick pub table top that had a big wide check in the wood. we had to do quite a few layers to build it up to where it was a solid top, yet when done you could see right through it.
JHELogFurniturePlace 6 months ago
Thank god you guys are doing it right there as far as getting the air out, NEVER USE A HAIR DRYER it blows lint and whatever is in the shop's air around. As far as waiting a week before the next layer, that's a joke. Everyone knows that you can pu another layer on after 16 hours if not sooner depending on the cure time. Also why not us e a brush for the application? 1st coat as thin as possible then thicker layers later? Sealing is the key to this step.
beachnative420 6 months ago
@beachnative420 it's not a cheap process to do especially when figuring in labor and the labor involved in removing it. The joke would be screwing it up. At the time the video was done it was extremely humid and we had already had to redo 1 top because after 3 days we figured it was dry enough and we ended up with fingerprints in the 1st coat. Why use a brush when there is a chance of hairs ending up in the finish? We will use the applicator which spreads it to the correct thickness.
JHELogFurniturePlace 6 months ago
@JHELogFurniturePlace As far ass the brush hairs go? I sure know what you mean, LOL. I've done literally thousands of tables and have hadd that problem. I like the mill gauge for thickness!!! I found that getting a new brush and loading it up with epoxy and setting it up with the hairs up for while then rinsing in acetone and not completely claening it makes the brush stiffer and keeps the brush hair in works for me....most of the time...but not always. I'm going to try your technique today : )
beachnative420 6 months ago
@JHELogFurniturePlace As far as the brush hairs go? I sure know what you mean, LOL. I've done literally thousands of tables and have hadd that problem. I like the mill gauge for thickness!!! I found that getting a new brush and loading it up with epoxy and setting it up with the hairs up for while then rinsing in acetone and not completely claening it makes the brush stiffer and keeps the brush hair in works for me....most of the time...but not always. I'm going to try your technique today : )
beachnative420 6 months ago
@beachnative420 great tip on the brush, thanks a lot! we are going to use that tip when we are doing sink cutouts, seal around the edge instead of just pouring over it. Thanks again!
JHELogFurniturePlace 6 months ago
@beachnative420 we apply 2 thicker layers. the 1st coat is thinner than the 2nd, but still thicker than a poly of course as this is not a poly finish. We have found that 2 layers like this offers the best protection and desired look
JHELogFurniturePlace 6 months ago
is there a reason why you dont use a bandsander ??
Beautiful piece in the end i have to say
axe2see 6 months ago
Comment removed
axe2see 6 months ago
Any reason why you waited one week instead of 6-10 hrs? Thanks
426superb 6 months ago
@426superb yes, at the time the video was taken it was super humid and all finishes were taking 3 times longer to dry. When humidity is normal it takes just a day or two.
JHELogFurniturePlace 6 months ago
Did you sand or wipe with accetone between the second coat?
426superb 6 months ago
@426superb we wiped with a tack cloth, but did not sand
JHELogFurniturePlace 6 months ago
nice! can you do that on stone?
carmenSSS3095 7 months ago
@carmenSSS3095 I would think you can yes.
JHELogFurniturePlace 6 months ago
Can you apply the liquid glass on a spray painted surface? Is there a risk of chemical reaction?
joebarchuck 7 months ago
@joebarchuck that is a great question... but I unfortunately do not know the answer to it. We've never tried to apply it over paint.
JHELogFurniturePlace 7 months ago
@JHELogFurniturePlace Well, i am going to try... I'll let you know how it goes.
joebarchuck 7 months ago
Can liquid glass be applied to a table that has a laquer finish on it?
handyman297 9 months ago
@handyman297 I believe it can be put over pretty much anything
JHELogFurniturePlace 9 months ago
pretty much would be the key word there
JHELogFurniturePlace 9 months ago
Good video! How do I get bubbles out of table that is a year old?
handyman297 9 months ago
@handyman297 sand it down and start over unfortunately.
JHELogFurniturePlace 9 months ago
Do you ever apply a varnish, or polyester topcoat,then buff to add durability?
InsaneCB 9 months ago
@InsaneCB no we never have
JHELogFurniturePlace 9 months ago
@lapispinoza not yet :)
JHELogFurniturePlace 9 months ago
Would a heat gun work?
fac3308 10 months ago
@fac3308 yes it sure will.
JHELogFurniturePlace 10 months ago
Will this epoxy move with the wood as it expands and contracts? Most resins form tiny cracks after a while. Let's say you have a large hole 2 fingers thick in a table, and you want to fill it in with this finish, is that possible?
Mueiwark 11 months ago
@Mueiwark yes, you sure can fill up holes, cracks,etc. It looks amazing too. For customers wanting something extra special we use a lot of boards that have rot or knot holes missing, large checks/cracks, etc and fill up the voids with the liquid glass. It's time consuming but the end result just looks amazing. You just have to lay something on the underside of the void that the epoxy will release from when cured.
JHELogFurniturePlace 11 months ago
@JHELogFurniturePlace Thank you for taking the time to answer. I will remember the brand name when I want to fill in large holes.
Mueiwark 11 months ago
Jason.. Mraz? what? 5:08
Zalamedas 11 months ago
what about dust and debris that may float onto wet surface during drying time?
206425 1 year ago
@206425 always something to prep for - make sure you are in a clean clean room or you will be redoing the finish. flies and flying things seem to love flying into fresh pours also so keep an eye out for them or make sure there aren't any wherever you are pouring.
JHELogFurniturePlace 1 year ago
ok thank you very much guy
MrToby129 1 year ago
strarting over mean sand it down to the wood ?
MrToby129 1 year ago
@MrToby129 yes, that is correct.
JHELogFurniturePlace 1 year ago
if some buble ave apear after the first coat can you sand those before the second coat
MrToby129 1 year ago
@MrToby129 it is pretty much impossible to sand out the bubbles - at least spot sand and have it look good. Any imperfection or fix will be visible. If we discover a bubble we typically just start over.
JHELogFurniturePlace 1 year ago
can you please name this epoxy so that i can buy it? if possible please provide me the scientific if not the brand or the website. thanx
deddagen 1 year ago
Thanks for an amazing video, I found it so interesting. I am fascinated by anything related to furniture. Can't wait to see more!
MustardMonkeyLtd 1 year ago
@MustardMonkeyLtd Thank you!
JHELogFurniturePlace 1 year ago
did you coat the wood with anything before applying the epoxy resin?
drawingquarters 1 year ago
@drawingquarters no we didn't. We just made sure the surface was perfectly clean before applying the 2 part epoxy.
JHELogFurniturePlace 1 year ago