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  • I've watched this video several times. I was able to use what I learned to fix a new Golden Melody harp I had just gotten where the 3 draw was major leaky (and major pissed me off). There are a few other vids like this on YouTube. Some vids show the arcing thing but others want the whole reed as flat as possible. I think the arcing really helps on those lower draw notes. Thanks for the lesson.

  • The major problem I found is that Hohner doesnt care that the reeds combs slots ect are not percise for the modern player. Overblows overdraws replacement reeds are things that HOHNER just doenst care about. I have talked to them about being a harmonica players company but they seem to want to sell harmonicas and make a profit. That is why the new player is looking at new harmonica manufacturers.

    .

  • My 'need to know' is now, one less....thanks!

  • What is the purpose of using the x-acto knife? Is it to remove burrs? Do you run it along the space between the reed and the slot? Wouldn't you end up just scraping the reed? Thanks for the video

  • Did I understand correct that you put some wax on the reed?

  • Superb vid. This all makesperfect mechanical sense now. Quick question: will this embossing help with trying to get to those elusive overblows on 4, 5 and 6? Thanks fom the UK.

  • not really. You need to profile the reed correctly and gap properly.

  • this is not what manufacturers should do - same as why they don't set up the seat in your car at the factory. It's custom work that's supposed to be custom - specifically for the player.

  • If all this makes a difference...why DO THE HARP MAKERS NOT HEED IT...AND DO THIS IN THE FIRST PLACE? Also, years ago, do you think Sonny Terry or Little Walter did these mods????

  • Comment removed

  • Hey Chris!!

    Is that make any sense??

    cheers from Brasil

  • Which brings us to the cost. I have not found any reference of the legends tweeking their harps. Im sure they at least cleaned, but for the most part they were just replaced when bad. My Hohner harps in the late sixties were only $4.95 and only available in 12 major keys. I am convinced that the tooling required to produce these harps would increase cost tremendously. I for one prefer to do my own tweeks.

  • Farbuk: A huge difference. Two reasons: First...The way 10 hole diatonic harmonica as it is now played was never envisioned by the makers. The harmonica was designed for playing in the key. Ten holes=twenty notes=straight harp. The legends of Blues Harp like DeFord Bailey, Little Walter, Big Walter Horton, and Howlin Wolf popularized new levels with bends and changing key position. Howard Levy introduced the Overblow in the 1970s. The harps available needed refining to improve playability.

  • everyone does things in there own way. =)

  • Because harmonicas as they are used today are an accident of manufacture. Harmonicas were never designed to bend notes, let alone overblow.

  • Are you suggesting Little Walter and Sonny Terry were too dumb to set up their gear?

  • The fact that those guys were playing on unmodified harps makes them even more amazing. They would have been even better plays on custom harps.

  • very cool. I had no idea you could even do this at all. I was burned out on harps.This rekindles my interest and shows me how little I knew about playing. Thanks very very much!

  • chris do you emboss on both sides of the same plate

  • I am not Chris but am pretty confident he will tell you to ONLY emboss the side the reed is mounted on.

  • Holy Moses! I've been looking at other videos and just found yours. I have a cheapo set of Piedmont Blues harps to experiment on, and following along with your video, the first one I worked on (in A) is now actually a real, playable harp! I'll do a few more before I try any of my good instruments, but the difference is night and day. It actually plays and bends without sucking out my lungs and all the notes are even in volume. Amazing.

  • Great help man, keep posting!

  • holy crap you are the Penn and Teller of the harp! Thanks so much I am checking out your CD now .

  • Hi Chris, thanks so much for sharing this with us. This is about the 3rd time I've watched it. For some reason I find it completly relaxing to watch and listen to you work here! My question is, what you just showed us here on the 3 hole, is that what you actually do to all of the holes, to make them all more responsive? Thanks again...!

  • yes, I do it to all the holes.

  • I want to see if I understand what you're doing. When you run the socket down the slot to emboss it, are you actually bending the corners in towards the reed, closing the gap? Then, with the exacto knife, you're trimming away that metal, so the reed has almost zero clearance with the slot. When you gap, you raise the reed slightly above the place for better air flow. Is that what's going on?

    Thanks

  • Thanks for that. Very clear and concise. This video has allowed me to transforme a junk harp into something very good, in fact I'm amazed at the difference the embosing has made.

    Thanks again.

  • Chris,,I enjoy your videos very much. can you put me on your list when you get a D harp made,,,thanks,,Teter

  • I have slept with Chris Michalek. TWICE. The coffee in the morning was THAT GOOD!!! Fear The Buddha!!

  • Buddha Harp $175

    Zen Harp - $150 (Golden Melody, Special 20, Marine Band, Blues Harp

    etc) (Models with wood combs are sealed to prevent swelling)

    Harmonica is set up using factory supplied parts only.

    Lotus Harp - $85 (Golden Melody, Special 20, Marine Band, Blues Harp

    etc) $95 if you want the factory wood comb sealed to prevent swelling.

    To order send pay pal to mojodeli(at)yahoo(.)com please add $5 for shipping

    in USA

  • Hey Chris...how's that going...your building of custom harps? ;) I definitely want your plinker...funny, I have a couple of those Swiss Army knives and they don't seem to have the same tools incorporated :) Maybe I'll start working on some of my own older diatonics, after seeing how easy you make it look, lol...

    Eliz

  • Hi Chris, can you tell me what the difference is between a "Buddha", "Zen", and a "Lotus" harp is please?

  • you kinda have to make one yourself. The lee oskar kit does nothing. MAybe I'll put one together.

  • are there any tool kits you would endoss

  • Chris how do I know if the reed is beyond tuning or fixing.

  • When you tune the reed and it simply doesn't take and continues to go out of tune. A dead also doesn't ring like the others when your plink it.

  • Great video, Chris. Question: Why not emboss the reed slot on the other side of the plate as well?

  • Filisko Who? Ha ha ha

    -Big Alex

     Chicago

  • Filisko? I was talking about my good friend Phil Isko

  • Thanks for the tips chris. You can message me when you have harps for sale, i'd be interested in trying one.

  • what do i do when the reed is actually touching the reed plate on its side ?

  • you can take apart one of those security stickers that you'll find on a CD, DVD or inside a book. Inside you will find some thin metal strips that are perfect to use as a shim. You could try a .001 shim too. Stick the shim between the reed and side of the slot to remove the bur

  • much appreciated !

  • Thanks for the tips.

  • This video gave me the confidence to try embossing again and I've had success. Thanks alot for posting this!

  • What key was that harp, dude? Ha! Seriously, well done.

  • If anybody is interested, I currently have a G, Ab, A, Bb, C and D harps ready to mail out today. These are harps that are set up for overblowing. If you're wonder how Jason Ricci or Carlos delJunco harps are set up any of these would be a prime example. Send me a note for more info.

  • Sept 16: All harps are sold but more available this week. If you're interested please contact me to get on the list while it's short. Thanks!

  • Holy Shit.... I could never do that.... Your playing is amazing.

  • Great video Chris. Embossing is something I've been wanting to try and this video gave me what I needed to know. After watching this I embossed and regapped all 20 slots on a C and an A today. The harps are more responsive and much easier in the higher registers. I got an increase in volume, clarity, and crispness.

  • great video,loving your tunes too!! if you make another vidio on this could you please include how to make the plinkerand how do you get it back in tune after all that work ?? cheers dave

  • Chris, thanks for the lesson and expanding on your past answer to me regarding whether you modify your harps or get others to do it for you.

    Question, I'm not clear from the video what you're using the screw driver for. Is it to emboss the end of the slot or are you doing something else?

    Thanks, JH

    PS - A year ago, Jason R suggested that customizing on my own was the best way to go, to improve playing skill. Great minds obviously think alike!?

  • Thats not how Little Walter Plinked!

  • Nope, he's old school...a tough SOB. I'm a wussie and need harps that play easily or I'd end up sounding like Howlin' Wolf.

  • Thanx CHris

    Seeing it done is treasure.

    Gray

  • Cann you please recommend any goodquality harmonica toolkits that I can buy? I prefer and feel more comfortable playing diatonic then chromatic thwy both have there pros and cons :) I would like to understand how to tweak and adjust my harps to unlock the possibilities of the diatonic. you play with some great muso's, stu hamm my fave bass player like your music its very different.. cheers for the vid hope to see more in the future

  • Thanks!!! I love playing with Stu. Very down to ear and a pure musician.

    As for tool kits. All you need is a small flat edge and small phillips screw drivers that you can get at any home store. Then you need a plinker which can be made from spark plug gappers. You will also need a small file. I'll make another video soon that shows all that you need.

  • what do you mean it doesn't sound right? does it buzz? How well do you play harp? Lots of beginning players have issues with hole 2-3 on lower keyed harps.

    All harps should be modified to play better, especially if you know how, in the end it only help you become a better player because many things are easier.

  • hey, I got a question for you. I just got an A harp (hohner sp20) and the 2draw sounds very weird. IS it that it's not 'broken in' yet? or should I modify it this way?

  • Thanks Wharty! I haven't played or tuned up a harp higher than D for about 10 years. I just don't use them. In general it shouldn't be any more difficult with higher keyed harps. The upper end of them is something I probably wouldn't touch.

  • Ha! That's where/how I can get you! Now I will ONLY play harps above D! Your in trouble now Bubba!

  • Nice job Chris!!! You have yourself a new fan. Great playing, clear and concise information - I dig it. The dog chomping on the bone got me laughing man. I once spent hours trying to square away an old F harp. Do you find higher tuned harps more difficult to gap?

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