Added: 3 years ago
From: superbtrader
Views: 41,711
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  • I agree with Leonard. Mentioning the benefits of a open hand grip and the cons of crimping for beginners should be mentioned. FOR BEGINNERS: Crimping is a much more powerful way of "gripping" a hold but it causes significant stress on your fingers. A open hand grip will increase your open hand and crimp strength while reducing stress on your tendons. This is a good video but it lacks advice for beginners.

  • @GreatWhiteBehemoth leonard is completely wrong

  • I tried the absurd and I tore my A3 pulley.

  • first to finish on trents mom

  • That was a pretty awesome send

  • yah, can't all of these closed-hand crimps lead to blown tendons? i have a buddy who used to lock off every crimp by wrapping his thumb over the top of his fingers... until he blew his index and middle finger tendons. be careful out there!

  • @LAlaxer55 yes. This video is pretty old, before we knew that training with an open hand grip actually strengthens all forms of gripping besides pinches...oww, my poison ivy itches so much

  • @LAlaxer55 any grip can lead to blown tendons

    Ive never blown a tendon on a grimper

  • if it was the first ascent why were there chalk marks on the top hand holds? great video though

  • @offroaddude333 I believe they're magnesium marks

    

  • @offroaddude333 Becaus he might have gotten to the top hold but not managed to pull over. And they could have brushed it with chalk.

  • Oh come on, ONLY a 14c?

  • what's that song?

  • my door jams are taking a killing from my crimp training;)

  • "it must mean your fingers are getting stronger.. .. or something like that"

    lol

  • so im training atm everything that doesnt has to do with ellbows (i fucked them up after 3 months of intensive bouldering :/ ) is dead hanging ok or should i better leave it for a while?

  • I just love Jared! He such a talented young guy!

    Rock on dude!

  • Does anybody know the name of the song in this, or the artist? And yeah, I need to hang on doorframes way more.

  • @ThunderMug2  ooh yesss, me too!

  • climbing is beautiful

  • Yes, whats the name of the song?

  • I don't like that when yor showing crimp strenght training, your doing a closed crimp. that is gonna make alot of beginners destroing their fingers...you should have told about the magical, much stronger open crimp;)

  • Closed crimps hurt my finger joints too, but not all people experience this. A lot of climbers can crimp their lives away and never feel any joint pain. I think genetics have to be taken into consideration and you can't just make a blanket statement that closed crimp= bad and open crimp=good.

  • @leonard2111 open hand grip Bends first knuckle, is the weakest grip but uses the least amount of energy, good for routes and is the hardest grip to use on a small hold however is the most beneficial for all types of grips, is only safer on tendons with slopers not edges

    flex grip 2nd strongest grip, bends 2nd knuckles and no thumb

    crimping The closed hand grip is the only grip that involves your thumb and is the strongest grip however it uses the most amount of energy of all the grips

  • great vid thanks

  • yea please do find out what this song is

  • I dont have a clue now, but Ill try to figure it out...

  • Impresive :) what is name of this song?

  • Ill check it out... thanks

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