@eddie1278 Heavy Sigh...... You missed the point again. In this case the 600-pound stove could not be easily moved in after the cabinets were installed. Imagine if the stove were a built-in cabinet, or a bookcase or anything that can't be moved. This video is showing you a way to get a tight fit if and when the cabinet is the LAST thing going in. If you have a better way, I don't understand why you don't have a video showing your way on your channel.
@eddie1278 You miss the point entirely. Imagine if the stove was something immoveable. The point of the video is to show how to stretch two walls just an eighth or quarter of an inch IF YOU NEED to do it.
Nice trick, but if you have to refinish the outside corner anyway, why not just take off the inside corner which would remove one side of the 1/8" bead? If you have to refinish the wall anyway, why go through the work of "stretching" the wall?
@dslynx Because your method is so much more work. After the 2x4 was removed, the bead went right back into position. It took one nail to repair it. Quick-dry spackle had the wall looking like new in 15 minutes. Your method would take days with regular joint compound.
Tim, with all due respect, that is not the way to install cabinets my friend. It is much easier to add the filler after the base cabinet in place. If your cabinet design would not allow for that, split the difference 1/16" x 4 at the walls and the range and then caulk the wall scribes.
Finally, cut the cabinet scribe off enough near the wall and add a filler next to the range after every thing is installed.
@CabinetryExpert With all due respect back to you, I appreciate your comment. What I failed to say in the video, but will go back with an annotation, is that the cabinets came with a built-in filler strip the side frames were extra wide from the factory and had to be scribed on the site. Your method works well with cheap cabinets where the filler creates the thin line you can always see when you screw them to the side of the cabinet frame. No such line exists on my cabinets.
If you are doing new construction with side walls on each side NOT what is seen here but similar situation, you should use the corner bead that looks like a smooth plastic "L" . That one won't give you the bulge that the traditional metal corner bead will have. That way you can slide the cabinets in with only a 1/8" gap that can be easily caulked. I think that bead still holds up pretty well as I haven't gotten any callbacks, but I've only had to do this situation a few times.
Nice tip.... however just be carful when doing this type of thing. When you realease that 2x4 brace... that wall is going to try to return to its original position and be SO TIGHT up against that cabinet. The problem is..... if that cabinet has drawers or doors you might find yourself in a "binding" issue. Those drawers may not slide smoothly or those doors may not close properly. Thanks Ask the Builder!
@dannyabq1 Danny, Not True! You have to realize that the cabinet was scribed to fit into the opening perfectly so that it would not be crushed. The only reason the wall is being spread is because the drywall cornerbead is making the opening 1/8 inch narrower than what it is just three inches away. After the 2x4 was released I ended up with a paper-thin gap between the scribe wing and the drywall.
Tim this makes me cringe as an appliance repair technician. I see these things all the time with remodels. When the repair person comes and has to pull the range for service they are screwed. Please think about the next person. Seen dishwasher, ranges and refrigerators all shoe horned in.
@2004sars Ah, good point. But you have to realize that the range will slide out with minimal effort. The cabinets are not crushed into the opening. The trick allowed the cabinet to be placed so that the scribed wing on the left fit perfectly with no gap against the wall. The cabinets touching the range do just that - they just touch. They are not applying pressure against the range. So you can still get it in and out. I chose to put the range in first to level it easier.
Sledge hammers come in handy. A door frame in a garage wouldn't let the door shut so my friend just left it that way. I took one look and pounded the frame near the floor a few times . The hammer was in arms reach. All of a sudden the door closes perfectly. After the seasons past it went back to not fitting because of shrinking and expanding. It's time to grab the hammer again as its almost spring. Thanks for the tip. Will remember if ever the need arises.
@justplayman The cabinet was scribed to fit. But the opening at the bead corner was 1/8-inch less. If you scribe it to fit, then you have a 1/8 inch gap once it's in place.
@frarr1986 Great idea, assuming there were no wall cabinets in place. It's always best to install wall cabinets first. It's easier to do that and there's less chance of damaging base cabinets below.
thats a cool trick but i think its easier to move the oven foward just put plywood so you dont scratch the floors i know those r heavy but they have weels and u can level the cabinets beter
I've never seen that done before but it makes perfect sense. Saves a LOT of struggling to get the cabinet installed. Mudding and repainting the corner should be fairly easy.
Tim, Neat trick, I get it... a way to solve a problem and Git R Done! I get it.
thebearmaster 3 months ago
Cool trick
Taxminia0311 4 months ago
@eddie1278 Heavy Sigh...... You missed the point again. In this case the 600-pound stove could not be easily moved in after the cabinets were installed. Imagine if the stove were a built-in cabinet, or a bookcase or anything that can't be moved. This video is showing you a way to get a tight fit if and when the cabinet is the LAST thing going in. If you have a better way, I don't understand why you don't have a video showing your way on your channel.
AsktheBuilder 9 months ago
@eddie1278 You miss the point entirely. Imagine if the stove was something immoveable. The point of the video is to show how to stretch two walls just an eighth or quarter of an inch IF YOU NEED to do it.
AsktheBuilder 9 months ago
Nice trick, but if you have to refinish the outside corner anyway, why not just take off the inside corner which would remove one side of the 1/8" bead? If you have to refinish the wall anyway, why go through the work of "stretching" the wall?
dslynx 9 months ago
@dslynx Because your method is so much more work. After the 2x4 was removed, the bead went right back into position. It took one nail to repair it. Quick-dry spackle had the wall looking like new in 15 minutes. Your method would take days with regular joint compound.
AsktheBuilder 9 months ago
Tim, with all due respect, that is not the way to install cabinets my friend. It is much easier to add the filler after the base cabinet in place. If your cabinet design would not allow for that, split the difference 1/16" x 4 at the walls and the range and then caulk the wall scribes.
Finally, cut the cabinet scribe off enough near the wall and add a filler next to the range after every thing is installed.
CabinetryExpert 10 months ago
@CabinetryExpert With all due respect back to you, I appreciate your comment. What I failed to say in the video, but will go back with an annotation, is that the cabinets came with a built-in filler strip the side frames were extra wide from the factory and had to be scribed on the site. Your method works well with cheap cabinets where the filler creates the thin line you can always see when you screw them to the side of the cabinet frame. No such line exists on my cabinets.
AsktheBuilder 10 months ago
If you are doing new construction with side walls on each side NOT what is seen here but similar situation, you should use the corner bead that looks like a smooth plastic "L" . That one won't give you the bulge that the traditional metal corner bead will have. That way you can slide the cabinets in with only a 1/8" gap that can be easily caulked. I think that bead still holds up pretty well as I haven't gotten any callbacks, but I've only had to do this situation a few times.
amigo1080 11 months ago
Nice tip.... however just be carful when doing this type of thing. When you realease that 2x4 brace... that wall is going to try to return to its original position and be SO TIGHT up against that cabinet. The problem is..... if that cabinet has drawers or doors you might find yourself in a "binding" issue. Those drawers may not slide smoothly or those doors may not close properly. Thanks Ask the Builder!
dannyabq1 11 months ago
@dannyabq1 Danny, Not True! You have to realize that the cabinet was scribed to fit into the opening perfectly so that it would not be crushed. The only reason the wall is being spread is because the drywall cornerbead is making the opening 1/8 inch narrower than what it is just three inches away. After the 2x4 was released I ended up with a paper-thin gap between the scribe wing and the drywall.
AsktheBuilder 11 months ago
@AsktheBuilder Thanks Tim! Great information!
dannyabq1 11 months ago
Tim this makes me cringe as an appliance repair technician. I see these things all the time with remodels. When the repair person comes and has to pull the range for service they are screwed. Please think about the next person. Seen dishwasher, ranges and refrigerators all shoe horned in.
2004sars 11 months ago
@2004sars Ah, good point. But you have to realize that the range will slide out with minimal effort. The cabinets are not crushed into the opening. The trick allowed the cabinet to be placed so that the scribed wing on the left fit perfectly with no gap against the wall. The cabinets touching the range do just that - they just touch. They are not applying pressure against the range. So you can still get it in and out. I chose to put the range in first to level it easier.
AsktheBuilder 11 months ago
Sledge hammers come in handy. A door frame in a garage wouldn't let the door shut so my friend just left it that way. I took one look and pounded the frame near the floor a few times . The hammer was in arms reach. All of a sudden the door closes perfectly. After the seasons past it went back to not fitting because of shrinking and expanding. It's time to grab the hammer again as its almost spring. Thanks for the tip. Will remember if ever the need arises.
derman077 11 months ago
I have been here before...I installed the end cabinets first and then the middle section...worked great. It was uber tight but it worked just fine.
238839 11 months ago 3
awesome
ikb01 11 months ago
1. Option: persision saw, sand, or grind the front cab lip.
2. Al-in-all,..nice stretch tip !
3. It's work either way,...each man to his accorded afternoon mood.
4. Sometimes it,s a muddy mood,...others a MacDonalds lunch saw. lol.
5. Just felt like a little humored addition,...
Peace out, Builder
justplayman 11 months ago
@justplayman The cabinet was scribed to fit. But the opening at the bead corner was 1/8-inch less. If you scribe it to fit, then you have a 1/8 inch gap once it's in place.
AsktheBuilder 11 months ago
You could just lift the unit and slide it in from the top and fit your wall cabinets after?!
Way easier!
frarr1986 11 months ago 2
@frarr1986 Great idea, assuming there were no wall cabinets in place. It's always best to install wall cabinets first. It's easier to do that and there's less chance of damaging base cabinets below.
AsktheBuilder 11 months ago
That's why we make houses of concrete and bricks ;)
WackoX1337 11 months ago 3
We make our houses of bricks. Not wood
cru5h0n3 11 months ago 7
thats a cool trick but i think its easier to move the oven foward just put plywood so you dont scratch the floors i know those r heavy but they have weels and u can level the cabinets beter
cris103009 11 months ago 7
I've never seen that done before but it makes perfect sense. Saves a LOT of struggling to get the cabinet installed. Mudding and repainting the corner should be fairly easy.
PutSome5tankOnIt 11 months ago
and what if its a brick wall ?
zakamooza 11 months ago
@zakamooza I'm no pro, but a brick wall wouldn't have drywall on it, no?
lucserre 11 months ago
@zakamooza then i hope your mason made the wall straight! When using drywall and the corner bead your wall tapers out towards the corner bead.
racer4560 11 months ago