Added: 5 months ago
From: user72689
Views: 28,751
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  • Yes...okay done....Nice Job...Regards...Dave

  • @A297MAN104 thanks Dave!

  • Thanks!

  • Cool Video !!

  • Those metal angles are more trouble than they're worth, Nice Job.

  • wow suuuuper

  • yeee bary =D

  • very nice video sir

  • @AGZVLOG thanks!

  • @AGZVLOG thank you!

  • a good video deserves a star in right crowd

  • great job

  • Next time have someone else commentate. This was terrible!

  • @JPSnyder1985 thanks for expressing your opinion!

  • great!

  • very good video

  • Great video!~ Like I said I prefer to learn at home

  • @2thestarsandbeyond Thanks!

  • Hi, my husband and i removed crown molding that was put up very badly - lifting off the wall, and use of two different design for the corners. Anyways, we need to fix the wall, drywall paper is coming out of several places because removing the material that was used to stick the molding to the wall ripped up the drywall paper. I don't know what should be the process to repair the wall and then finally finish off with painting. Can you please guide, I'm amateur but my husband is a tile guy.

  • @marivana27 Hello- use a sharp blade like the orange one have in the beginning of this video to Cut Around the damaged drywall areas. Then use a 1 inch flexible blade and gouge out or peel away any loose or torn drywall to the spot where u made your cut line. Then use a product called Gardz, its made by Zinnser, to lock down the torn drywall areas. Its a special Sealing primer that Penetrates, Seals, and Binds down the drywall paper. Do 2 coats of this, then skim over the areas with mud.

  • @user72689 my husband went to homedepot and got Bullseye 1-2-3 by Zinsser (it has the consistency of paint, and is applied with a brush) is this the same or similar thing you mentioned?

    Another question, if we decide to have crown moulding done again, should we be doing all this fixing of the wall, since it will be hidden behind the moulding?

  • @marivana27 The Best option is to Hide it with larger or wider Crown molding that way you cover it up. The Bullseye 1-2-3 is a great bonding primer but its wont do what the Gardz will do. Go to a Ben Moore or Sherwin store to purchase the Gardz. If you do do crown, There still might be areas of the lower part that are exposed and will need to be treated. I hope this helps!

  • @marivana27 How did you make out?

  • @user72689 Before making the fixes, i had some guys come in and give a quote for molding, they quoted 650-700, because at some places even after using 7" molding damage to the drywall will show from the bottom of the molding. So, they would first fix the wall and then do the molding. So, i went ahead and fixed the wall as you suggested. Called the moldings guys again, they came and did the molding for 450 only. I've now painted the room and it looks amazing, thanks so much 4 ur help.

  • @marivana27 Great! That's nice to hear! Thanks for responding!

  • The ceiling angle didn't lift because the original taper did a hokey amateur job, but thermal conduction from the steel support beam. No matter how good a repair it'll always re-lift. The room should be crown molded.around the ceiling angle perimeter.

  • @RenoDoctor Interesting

  • @user72689 Steel beams normally sit on a cinder block foundation, which means in contact with outside temperature. Note the rust. In winter the house interior is heated but the steel is in equilibrium with outside ambient temp at or below Dew Point, so water vapour condenses on the steel (that releases temp, so heats) and H2O, an excellent dissolvent, destroys the gypsum bond. Goodbye drywall tape.

  • this is the reason that i fear drywall... but... it's good to see that there's a fix for this... thanks!!

  • @montyloree ur welcome!

  • Enjoy your videos.

  • @piddler51 Great!

  • Thanks for your vidoes.

  • @afredus ur welcome afredus!

  • I had to laugh.... this looks like the tape job that I usually do.... this was very useful!

  • @ibmoutinho Thanks for watching!

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