Added: 1 year ago
From: VideoJoeKnows
Views: 38,897
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  • i think you need to get a bit better before you do another video

  • @naandvaharris Hey, this is how it's going to look when YOU start trying to do it. You won't look like a pro, & neither did I. But the more you do, the better you get. I can float a storm now....like I was born to do it. Was I that good the first time I did it?....NO. Don't let that discourage you. Do you want to be taught from a pro where it looks so easy or do you want to learn from someone like me...an average "joe"! When I got done with this wall, it looked like a pro did it. Joe :0

  • @naandvaharris Check out my other videos. I've done just a few since I made this one!! Joe :0

  • Hi... i just wounder why ppl in usa have a metlall bucket. it looks realy uncomfortable..

  • @David85swe What do you mean by metal bucket? Please explain.  Joe :0

  • I always milk the wall, then apply durabond 90, then ez sand 90, then premixed joint compound, then lightly sand with a wet, tight knit rag.

  • @technodazed Great idea to use the quickset beofre going to the joint compound. Thanks for the tip! Joe :0

  • clean your mud pan

  • @050mega I clean out the inside of my mud pan periodically during my project then I clean the outside of it when I get done. Good eyes....thanks for noticing!! A clean mud pan, especially on the edges, will help you prevent getting lines in your mud, from the dried up crusties!!...lol That goes for your broad knife as well. Keep those edges clean. Have fun with your project. Joe :0

  • Why does nobody teach americans how to plaster.it's like watching paint dry, so slow and laborious.All that sanding bollocks ,no need for it makes me cringe when i hear that scraper.I know you lot think you invented the world but before the second world war we had it hands down.My point is the old way is the best sadly your way is taking over.

  • @zombiekiller09DF There's got to be someone on youtube who can show you how to apply plaster. The world wanted something cheaper than plaster & drywall was born. That's all I've ever worked with. Sorry I couldn't help you with this. Hopefully you can find something on my channel that will benefit you. Thanks for commenting. Joe :0

  • @VideoJoeKnows I'll tell you how to do it, scrape high point's off ,key with a sharp knife, pva and plaster over with real plaster,two coats as any half decent plasterer will tell yer job done in 3 hours,no sanding.Also plaster isn't expensive as some people might makeout,two bag's multifinish for this wall would be plenty,cost 10 quid or about 6 or 7 dollars.

  • @zombiekiller09DF I've never used actual plaster before. Thanks for the great tips on how to use plaster to float out an existing spray textured wall! Joe :0

  • @VideoJoeKnows It would appear that joe doesn't know much and that is why he is dickering around.Also sarcasm the lowest form of wit.

  • @zombiekiller09DF Not sure if "joe" was dickering around or if he was just being "joe"! Take my word for it...."joe" knows alot of stuff. If "joe" was being sarcastic, I'm sure he wasn't directing it at you....maybe just to himself....lol Thanks for commenting. :0

  • Why dont you just bond the wall and then plaster it?

  • @MultiSpread I have never "plastered" a wall before. I would rather use all purpose joint compound that you apply over sheetrock/drywall since I am familiar with this way. It works really well & I like the results I get, so why change a good thing. Joe :0

  • Doing it this way can be easy on a smooth texture like brushed mud swirl, but a total PIA on anything bumpy. On the later, I'm inclined to use guide ridges of some kind; 1 or 2 layers of thick masking tape works for lighter textures, packing tape over lamp-cord (which can be re-used) for heavier ones. Or, you can just mud paper or fiberglass tape as if doing a drywall butt joint, spacing them about the width of your knife or trowel, then float between them.

  • @lrd9999 I've never tried what you are recommending &/or suggesting. It sounds like a lot of work....not to mention messy? I've not seen professionals do it that way but maybe some do? Is this how you do your smooth walls? Joe :0

  • @VideoJoeKnows I've done them that way if the texture was such that the blade kept "chattering" on the bumps in the texture. It's more work per coat, but it gives you a smooth surface in one pass. Sometimes when I didn't use them I wished I had; the original texture kept showing through each new coat. Theoretically, one horizontal coat followed by a vertical one should cover up everything, but shrinkage (which seems worse with joint compound than real plaster) seems to prevent that sometimes.

  • @lrd9999 The blade will keep chattering on the high bumps of the existing spray texture. You have to float the wall at least deep enough to cover the high spots & bridge over them. You generally will get this after applying the first coat as it will be impossible to apply the first coat perfect. That's what the second coat & tight skim coat is for. I'm just doing a wall right now this way & it's turning out looking great. Remember full steady hand strokes. You'll get good at it you'll see. :0

  • @VideoJK I believe professionals use the term screed(s) for this,though it has multiple definitions. From thefreedictionary(. you know what):

    screed: 2a. A strip of wood, plaster, or metal placed on a wall or pavement as a guide for the even application of plaster or concrete.

    It's not particularly messy and can often eliminate some sanding, though I'd like to try the self-leveling stuff; the roller-ready version is probably suitable for DIY use. But I haven't seen in for sale here yet.

  • @lrd9999 I think, if you have a steady hand, you would quickly get the hang of applying the joint compound....free hand. You will need to apply at least 2 coats. The first coat would be thicker than the 2nd coat. The second coat would be the skim coat then you could touch this up with a tight skim wherever needed. The important thing here is to remember you will be tricking the eye. As long as your overall job is smooth, your eye will not see any waves in the wall. Try it. Joe  :0

  • @VideoJoeKnows Having skimmed most of the ceilings in my house and a few closets in my father's house, I've had a chance to get used to both methods. Skimming free hand definitely saved me time on some surfaces, but not all. I particularly dislike sanding, so where using guides can minimize it, I use them. They were also used in the old rock-lathe and 3 coat systems for hiding framing imperfections. Just another trick to pull out only when it saves more time than it costs.

  • @lrd9999 Thank you again for all your time in putting all these responses together, with hints, tips, & ideas on how to do it differently. They might come in handy. I'll keep them in mind next time I need to float out a wall. Joe :0

  • This is now the old way of doing this kind of work.You need years of practice to be considered good at this and be healthy as well .In France [europe they have moved on from this to spraying self leveling skimcoats and recently a new inovation by one company of roller applied and levelling tools that are far easier than the hawk and trowel method.Take a look at toupret.com to see some real easier and better products than these

  • @julyarchives Thanks so much for your input. I will check out the website you have mentioned. I wonder, however, how many DIY'ers would just as soon do it the old method &/or variation of the old method, since most are not pros yet they want to do it themselves to save money & don't want to purchase additional tools for the onesy twosy times they need to skim out a wall. Thanks again for your comments. Joe :0

  • thanks for the video! I'm dealing with a ceiling texture that absolutely will not come off, will this technique sitll work, even if the texture is really defined and deep?

  • @visvire Yes this technique will still work. Scrape down as many of the high edges as possible. You will then have to apply at least 2 coats of skimming material & maybe even a tight skim, if it's as deep as you say it is. I have other videos that talk about applying 2 coats, sanding between coats & after & even how to apply the joint compound with a paint roller....look for them. You might want to apply with a paint roller as it might help since you're working on a ceiling. Good luck. Joe :0

  • you guys have no idea... lol

    i would EAT you up my friend. I should post a video so people can see how its really done. hawk and trowel - over texture... nobody does it like us

  • @clodeleven I'm sure you could turn circles around me because I am not a professional taper like you are...& I want to show others that they don't have to be pro or pay a pro to get their project done....they can do it themselves & save. Thanks for your comments. Guess what?...when I get done, it will look just like a pro did it....that's what I show here...if "joe" can do it, anyone can do it. :0

  • Are you just using a drywall joint compound? Do you sand it after it's all done?

  • @digs7979 You'vegot some great questions. Looks like you haven't checked out "joe's" other videos to find the answers....yet. You "are" going to be wastching "joe's" other videos....aren't you? lol! "Joe" is using all purpose drywall joint compound (not taping joint compound). You can also use "topping" joint compound. You need to apply at least 2 coats...topping coat then a skim coat...sand &/or knock down edges before applying next coat...sand at completion. Good luck. :0

  • @digs7979 After completing the 2 coat process, you may have to apply a 3rd coat (tight skim coat) to cover any imperfections or bubble holes. Watch "joe's" other videos on this as you'll get more ideas on how to finish your job & make it look like a pro. The more you do...the better you'll get. Thanks for checking out "the joe" lol! :0

  • bro my 2 year apprentice is faster than you. Whats with the spreader and tub it must take you all day to plaster 1 wall.

  • @NZMassive1 I was doing it this way to show people how to do it themselves & to see if "joe" can do it....they can do it. I show many different ways to float out a wall, this being one of them. If you've never floated out a wall before, I bet you could do it after watching "joe". When "joe" gets done, it looks like a professional did it. A DIY'er won't be as fast as a professional but they will still have the money in their pocket. Thanks for your comments. Joe :0

  • I'm currently doing this and its a big pain in the AZZ. Skim coating over existing rough texture is 10X harder then applying it to smooth drywall. It also takes a huge amount of mud. I've gone through probably 60 47lb boxes of mud to do 2 coats on a 1000 sqft house and I need to buy more.

    If you plan on doing this I highly suggest going down to Home Depot and getting a few mexicans.

  • @whoopbass You're right....it does take alot of sheetrock mud to skim coat over existing rough spray texture....but I'm sure it will look nice & "modern" when you get done. Spray texture used to be considered an upgrade but not anymore. Smooth wall or imperfect smooth seems to be the preference these days. I'm sure you're getting quite the workout without having to go to the gym lol! Thanks for commenting as I always like to hear from my viewers. Joe :0

  • @VideoJoeKnows hey joe im in ireland but we dont plaster like that we pva the walls and just mix gyproc plaster its done really differant in us planning on emergrateing just woundering wat to expect

  • @jessica21023 Greetings for the U.S. of A. That's interesting to hear how you do it in Ireland. There's different ways to smooth out a wall. This is just one way to do it when covering over a heavy spray texture that you don't want on an existing wall anymore. Thanks for your comments as I always like to hear from my viewers, to see what they're up to. Good luck with your immigrating. Joe :0

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