Added: 2 years ago
From: 8040john
Views: 37,288
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (49)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • i still don't get it how do you cut those pales , can u post a video when you cut them ?

  • Once again this is quite useless because blades will disintegrate at high speed.

    correct construction is to make blades thick at the base and thinner at endings.

    also it was bad idea to remove that much on center material because it need to hold blades and has to sustain enormous forces.

  • I think that's a beautiful piece of work. I'll subscribe and I want to see the rest.

    Thanks.

  • ...beautiful...

  • Great Job. there is a market ofr solar thermal power generation . houe hold scale if you could ever manage to do this practiacle and comercial.

    keep the great work

  • Proffessionnal job ! How did you do ? Carving or soldering

  • Are those Reaction type blades?

  • @sgtpepperoni yes they are reaction type blades you can allways tell because the gap between the inlet to two blades is always larger than the gap between the outlet.

  • Nice...we do work similar but welding tip w/waspaloy

  • the inconel originally came from a local scrap yard many years ago have not seen any usefull pieces since.

    as to suitability as long as you keep the exhaust temperature bellow 640 degrees C

    it is quite suitable, inconel 713 is stronger once you exceed these temperatures but i have never found it available in bar stock only references seem to be to do with casting it. hope this helps.

  • @8040John, Where'd you get the inconel? It is the most suitable alloy for hi-temp turbines.

  • thanks very much could still be better i will probably do another at some point its ironic though ive got all these skills and i still cant get a job .

    oh well thats life for you!!

  • @8040john if you can't get a job, then that sure is scary for me, because I have no such skills hehe

  • @EasternMerchant tell me about it mind you i have just got a job working in an engineering company in the quality control department its a minimum wage job at the moment as i am not qualified so will have to learn as i go along its very complex work and very high specification as its all aerospace stuff so the tolerances are extremly tight .

  • Thats a great piece of work my friend.

    I'm a CNC engineer but would love to have the manual skill that you clearly have.

  • hi i am currently videoing a few short videos which i will stitch together showing the different stages of cutting the turbine .

    as for the compressor that is a bought item it is a garrett ( T4 40 TRIM ) completely unmodified.

  • Sir can you please upload the video while the compressor and turbine blade were being fabricated /manufactured... hoping for a positive reply

  • Extraordinarily well done, sir. Very Good work indeed!

  • Very cool. How many hours does it take you to hand fab it?

  • @ctothethree

    takes about a week a couple of hours a night no point in rushing it as the better you make it the cooler it will run, so the more power you can get out for a given temperature rise .

    the safe practical limit for this material is 640 centigrade the way to look at it is the cooler it runs of load the more load you can put on it befor you get to 640.

  • @8040john I am planing on making aa gas turbine, how many compresser blades do you recomend?

  • @snakev10v5 hi dont you mean turbine blades i dont make the compressor it is from a turbo charger.

    however number of turbine blades depends on turbine diameter.

    what diameter?.

  • @8040john yes I do mean blades, sorry was tired . I am unsure on diameter, but I am think something like what you have in this vid, for a small scale experiment, then scaling it up to about the size of a small modle plane jet engin

  • @snakev10v5 the turbine that i built would be considered on the large size as far as model turbines the turbine wheel is 84mm in diameter and the best one so far had 25 blades the length and angle of them depends on whether you want a thrust engine or a turbo prop.

    my one has 16mm long blades with a very acute exit angle to extract as much power out of the gas flow as possible.

    the diameter of the engine casing is 115 mm and it wheighs about 4 pound with all the transmision.

    all the best.

  • @8040john I want power and thrust so if I oput say 2 of your type of turbine blade and 2 thrust ones on what would that do?

  • @snakev10v5 sorry friend that wont work and is unessesary since even a good turbo compressor will only generate a three to one pressure ratio any good turbine can efficiently convert up to nine to one pressure ratio .

    if you want thrust out the back and some shaft power as well you either do what i did and take power of the front of the engine or do what kurt shrekling did and have a hollow main shaft and a second larger turbine at the back with a shaft running up the centre to the front .

  • Upload some more videos John, everyone is just using the kits. I'd really like to see some of a DIY that isn't just a turbo with bits stuck on; the compressor would be good. John

  • nice craftsmanship Excellent work

  • do you help yourself in some way to machine it? or is all done by skill. If so, then you might as well call yourself a human CNC :O

  • @Blutquell Check out the book 'Gas turbines for model aircraft' by Kurt Shcreckling - ISBN 0951058916

    He's a German guy who started making them at home. The book isn't too long, but it's essentially a DIY guide to how he designed the engine, including the formulae (but not stupidly long or boring) and guides for each part, as well as photos.

    It's all done with a large, mig welder, drill press and grinder (like a dremel). VERY good read if you like engineering; definitely recommend it!

  • @lexichronicle2 i found the book online, very interesting things on it, thanks.

  • @Blutquell large = laTHe :P but it's a manual, doesn't need any cnc

  • @Blutquell hi i initially mark the divisions for the blades with a scribe and a protractor then draw the profil by hand into the segments allready scribed then i scribe the profiles because when you use the disk cutter to cut the initial slots any pen or pensil will burn away or wash away then it is just alot of labourious work with sanding disks and a belt sander jig i made up to force the belt into the under camber of each blade all done by eye i might add.

  • @8040john oh so you sand each of the blades by taking a square stock and use the belt sander to sand its curvature?

    then, proceed to weld each blade into the already cut slots?

    I am a fan of miniature work, and make miniature swords myself, thats why i was so curious as how you got such a complex shape.

  • @Blutquell hi no the turbine is cut from solid, blades an all,the initial slots from the disk cutter are nesseary so that you can get the sanding disks and belts between the blades.

    Each blade starts of as a parallelogram section viewed from the circumference of the disk.

  • Did you run this turbine wheel yet?

  • @basimpsn hi yes it ran ok but i made a new wheel with 2 blades less and an even better profil that produced lower temperatures about 380 degrees centigrade without a load but i undercut the rim to much in an attempt to reduce spool up inertia and it subsequently started to crack still need to make a new one but other commitments keep getting in the way.

  • @8040john

    Thats cool you can make your own turbine wheel, what kind of thrust were you looking for? and what temp and rpm you were getting?

  • @basimpsn hi sorry for the delay still out of work busy looking for work.

    hi max rpm so far has been 84000 max rpm will be 90000 predicted thrust will be about 25 pounds with that 24 inch prop max temp will be 640 degrees centigrade. without any load i have an exhaust temperature of 380 which is pretty good for a home made turbine wheel.

    it would be more efficient with a free turbine but the weight gain and the added complexity just didnt seem worth it.

  • Wow!

  • Hey there, excellent work!, quick question? If this was done by a cnc machine rather than hand made, would you still have to ballance it, or would it be fine right out of the machine?

  • @jd10t  no you would still have to balance it

  • how did you get that complex shapes by hand??

  • hi used a combination of diskcutter to cut the initial slots rigid sanding disks to grind the top camber and a sanding belt set up i constructed with a shaped tool to force the belt into the under camber only used the dremel and some diamond grinding tools to finish of the root section , takes about a week a couple of hours a night no point in rushing it as the better you do it the easier it is to ballance and the colder the engine runs

  • Did you use a dremel hand grinder..nice

  • Are you gunna use it in a hair dryer?

  • how did you machine the blade profiles?

  • the material came from a local scrap yard they had lots of offcuts from a local engineering company but that was many years ago havent seen any recently . will be cutting another one in a month or so . the one in the video has been replaced for one with fewer blades but a better profil much better performance but i undercut the rim sharply and the disk has started to crack around the rim below the blades so a new one is required .

  • nice work! where you got the material from?

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more