(continued) There should be some form of GFCI protection going on there, no lock nuts to fasten the connectors to the timer, could be more going on but from the quick view of your video these are the things that stood out.
Looks like with the two red, two blacks joined that they are the feed in then a feed pass through, that leaves the final pair of wires as your load. There looks to be a number of issues going on there, such as the two breakers should be a double pole breaker, the timer should be a weather proof timer, load is too high for the terminals (thus the burned wires), make a joint then a tail to the terminals instead. Code dictates the distance the electrical components should be away from the pool.
If your timer is a double pole whick is confirmed by the two breakers in the main panel. Now this means you have 240 volts coming in so that's two hot legs.So you must connect those main leads to the line side of the timer. Two in two out.Now the two black from the pump go to the load side of the timer. As for the two reds and two black pairs yes you must connect them like they use to be. You must follow that plastic protector that you moved aside to work. On it shows what terminals are which.
I understand you points. However, he is a real electrician. By trade. This has existed like this with no accidents for 10 years or more and as you said, it wasn't the outdoor variety either. I did not know that this was NOT the outdoor model and I will be taking steps to correct that. The conduit lock nuts had not been re-installed at the shooting of this video, but since have. GFCI I do not know about. Thanks for at least trying to help.
(4) ok, reviewing ur video again.........bases on ur statement that the reds and blacks(power in) terminated together. One red each goes on T1 & T3. Allow me to re-caution you again about the need for Ground Fault Circuit Interruption(GFCI) protection.
Call a pool company and ask for a reference on the licensed electrican they use, they will be experinced with pool installation. It looks like u have more issues then just a clock timer......*my posts star from the bottom up. Bottom line, Seriously, dont mess with something like this
The 110V clock needs a neutral wire taken to T-A. Now......Here comes the pain....
that clock isnt a weather proof model, u did'nt reinstall the locknuts on the conduits You have no GFCI protection based on the "your term fuses" , there is no service disconnect for the pump motor. That previous owner is an "electrican in his own mind" his Tork clock didnt look raintite either...Dude, your're fucking with electricity around water, u want to chance u and ur family/friends lives?
Your poles are T1 & T3=power in from panel. T2 & T4=load/wires to pump. The 2 reds ( you need to ID their purpose) but guessing across the internet I'd say also one each needs to go on T2 & T4 depending on it they are somethings needed to be
one/off controlled by the timer or one red could be a pool light , the other red can be for a general purpose receptacle ( which would be a different combination)
also that T103 is obviously different , you now have a 110V clock
@joe0709 T104P is a 220volt timer,the curious thing is that you inlet two 110 volt lines to the timer and out of it goes one 220 volt wire to the pump,a neutral wire and a ground wire
You're going to have to debug and label the wires.
wildgift2 3 weeks ago
I installed the pool timer for my pool inside my basement. I wanted to keep it out of the weather.
MGiants82 4 months ago
Nice video. I shared my time video with you. Please share yours with me.
Generation3electric 5 months ago
(continued) There should be some form of GFCI protection going on there, no lock nuts to fasten the connectors to the timer, could be more going on but from the quick view of your video these are the things that stood out.
MrNightro 6 months ago
Looks like with the two red, two blacks joined that they are the feed in then a feed pass through, that leaves the final pair of wires as your load. There looks to be a number of issues going on there, such as the two breakers should be a double pole breaker, the timer should be a weather proof timer, load is too high for the terminals (thus the burned wires), make a joint then a tail to the terminals instead. Code dictates the distance the electrical components should be away from the pool.
MrNightro 6 months ago
If your timer is a double pole whick is confirmed by the two breakers in the main panel. Now this means you have 240 volts coming in so that's two hot legs.So you must connect those main leads to the line side of the timer. Two in two out.Now the two black from the pump go to the load side of the timer. As for the two reds and two black pairs yes you must connect them like they use to be. You must follow that plastic protector that you moved aside to work. On it shows what terminals are which.
joe1236605 10 months ago
I understand you points. However, he is a real electrician. By trade. This has existed like this with no accidents for 10 years or more and as you said, it wasn't the outdoor variety either. I did not know that this was NOT the outdoor model and I will be taking steps to correct that. The conduit lock nuts had not been re-installed at the shooting of this video, but since have. GFCI I do not know about. Thanks for at least trying to help.
melladior 1 year ago
(4) ok, reviewing ur video again.........bases on ur statement that the reds and blacks(power in) terminated together. One red each goes on T1 & T3. Allow me to re-caution you again about the need for Ground Fault Circuit Interruption(GFCI) protection.
joe0709 1 year ago
Call a pool company and ask for a reference on the licensed electrican they use, they will be experinced with pool installation. It looks like u have more issues then just a clock timer......*my posts star from the bottom up. Bottom line, Seriously, dont mess with something like this
joe0709 1 year ago
The 110V clock needs a neutral wire taken to T-A. Now......Here comes the pain....
that clock isnt a weather proof model, u did'nt reinstall the locknuts on the conduits You have no GFCI protection based on the "your term fuses" , there is no service disconnect for the pump motor. That previous owner is an "electrican in his own mind" his Tork clock didnt look raintite either...Dude, your're fucking with electricity around water, u want to chance u and ur family/friends lives?
joe0709 1 year ago
Your poles are T1 & T3=power in from panel. T2 & T4=load/wires to pump. The 2 reds ( you need to ID their purpose) but guessing across the internet I'd say also one each needs to go on T2 & T4 depending on it they are somethings needed to be
one/off controlled by the timer or one red could be a pool light , the other red can be for a general purpose receptacle ( which would be a different combination)
also that T103 is obviously different , you now have a 110V clock
joe0709 1 year ago
@joe0709 T104P is a 220volt timer,the curious thing is that you inlet two 110 volt lines to the timer and out of it goes one 220 volt wire to the pump,a neutral wire and a ground wire
elpiloto1982 3 months ago