@2x7is14stupid I have no problem using Tap-cons as a way to attach bottom plate, they will work well. I am not a big fan of vapor barrier in below grade construction, seems to me you are trapping water that would otherwise "evaporate" if allowed to breathe. +++Bob
I'm starting to expand my back patio which is concrete. It has a slight slope heading towards the back yard. Should I lay sand to even and then apply wood? Not sure where to go. Thanks Bob
Do big-box home centers like Lowes or Home Depot carry that type of fastener? Or do I need to find an industrial fastener supplier, like many contractors probably use?
@rmcdaniel423 There is a similar type that looks like a fluted galvanized 16 penny nail that also works very well that they sell at my local Home Depot.+++Bob I believe the drilling size is 3/16 instead of 1/4
Try a Senco air driven framing nailer with hardened nails. Bang Bang Bang you're done. Holds like an SOB in concrete. After you're done anchoring the pressure treated plate to the concrete, use it to build your walls. Makes the job almost fun.
@sunny71169 Sorry sunny, not buying this comment, have never heard of a air nailer with hardened nails designed to anchor wood to concrete. I do not believe that tool exist. Please prove me wrong +++Bob
I just tried using a ramset w/ the highest strength shots available for the model I was using (HD2022 I believe) and it didn't drive the nails in far enough... so now I've got an un-anchored plate and holes in the concrete. I plan to use your method now bob, but my question is - do I need to worry about patching the holes under the plate now before drilling and anchoring w/ the split drives?
@usmc8542 It has been my experience that even if you find the proper powdered shot the plates sometimes tend to split or the nail does not penetrate and hold properly. That being said, using the proper eye and ear protection and if it works well for you it is definitely less expensive. +++Bob
Hey BOB You can speed up the process by drilling the hole in the treated floor plate with the 1/4 inch roto hammer bit saving one step. Drill in 3/4inch over depth and roget cleaning the debris away. Also why buy a split drive fastener when 2 -16d green vinyl sinkers are cheaper and you already have some in your tool bags? Great video.
Why on earth would you put the wood directly onto the concrete? All that will do is draw any water/moisture that may get on the concrete up into the walls... mould!
@mikeissocool19 Learning this trade is a lifetime of experiences, you take what you have learned and apply it to things you have never done before. Mistakes become fewer the longer you are in it..Hang in there and always be willing to learn new things, not just from your trade but from all the tradespeople you work with. Once you get a grasp of how the whole system works together you will become far more valuable +++Bob
@HomeRemodelWorkshop ya of corse but people only hire you such as frameing walls and ect. feels mostly like you are being used almost,,,barly no one in this trade wants to hire people my age as there own apprentices its just only buissness these days and thats what makes it so hard.
One word: "TAPCON" and there isn't a need to predrill the hole, that SDS hammer drill with a 3/16 bit (depending on the size of your tapcon screws) will go through the 2x4 with ease.
@JB122576 The generic response, Yes. +++Bob If you are dealing with any framing structurally related, heating,plumbing,electric,insulation and basic fire clearance codes and fire stops to window egress if you are putting a bedroom. You would have to know an awful lot about everything,or have total trust in the person doing the work, to feel you don't need one.
The biggest problem with these pins is going to be any vertical movement.. If there was an earthquake your bottom framing plate will move right through the pin. It might be better to use a framing anchor. Personal Preference I guess...
I have a old wine basement with what looks to be rock walls (1930's-1950's I'm thinking) I'm wanting to fix it up by installing wood to the walls so that my son can use it as a woodworking shop. How would I do this?
@militarysims I have always left air space between old rock walls and new wood wall framing. There is a possibility of creating leaks if you mess with old stone. The outside of building is particularly important to not disturb. The compacted earth is the best defense against leaks+++Bob
Just caught onto your videos and love them, as I just tore out my smell/rotted/horrible basement. A question that I don't see anyone else here asked (maybe because it's so basic? i'm a bit embarassed asking.)... WHY do you have to anchor the bottom plate into concrete? The walls I previously had and tore out were not anchored to the bottom or side walls which means my concrete is all in tact. I would have thought that was a GOOD thing... having concrete basement with NO holes. *confused*
@halleysmommy A good connection between top and bottom of wall is critical to keeping wall stable. As far as the holes in floor, unless you have a serious water pressure problem comming from below is generally not an issue.+++Bob P.S Never be embarassed to ask questions!
I love the video and you showed all of us who have never done this before how to do it properly. There will be times when I will have to do just that when working with walls.
No not really, a couple less tools to drive in versus screw,maybe a little faster. Even when I show one way I use definitely does not mean there are'nt equally appropriate ways of doing same thing,just trying to show an option. Thanks for watching+++Bob
@mikecoscia Sometimes its difficult to figure the correct load size to use and ,depending on concrete make-up,have a tendacy to split plates and blow-out concrete. I have had more consistent results with the split drives +++Bob
@HomeRemodelWorkshop holy crap thats ridiculous. ive shot thousands of plates down and even thin inch wall strapping doesnt split with the ramset or hilti. this system is sooooooooooo slow.
Hmmm... not a problem yet! but he figures while it's open what are some of the ways to improve something that could cause issues. So any spray foams, gaskets, sheet metal etc. that is known in the industry for such occassions. He's willing to hire the right professional as he wants to improve what's there already :) Thanks for your input... much appreciated! BTW, he is quite crafty with his collection of tools but not sure what's involved.
If it were open already and not weight bearing I would cut out and replace plate,but as I said I would not open anything that did'nt have to be opened just to replace plates+++Bob
Hey Bob, question for you. A buddy of mine discovered that the his finished basement has untreated bottom plates when he opened up a section of his finished basement wall. He's now got concerns to treat this wood so that it doesn't rot. Any ideas or pointers that you may be able to share? He's afraid that this was done throughout the finished basement walls and wanted to minimize the time/cost of ripping the walls out. Can he just cut the bottom portion of the walls and treat this wood?
WHOAAAA! A treated plate is recommended for use on bottom plates. If there is not a water issue in basement then removing bottom plates would be OVERKILL. An old phrase comes to mind"If it aint broke don't fix it" When doing any new or repair work then treated.The only way I would tear out existing structure is if there was a safety issue,I cannot believe this fits that criteria, yes mold only if water condition exist, and then I would only fix water issue and replace affected wood only+++Bob
if its not broken dont fix and if your friend have water probleme then the insurrance will do it so ...why spend money to fix something that aint broken now? and he will save money from insurrance IF water damage!
This is great! I have been wanting to remodel my basement, but my family recommended that we pay a professional to do it to "make sure it gets done right." But these videos are making me reconsider... I may do this myself! Thanks!
If you have the tools,some basic skills,and a willingness to learn and work thru possible problems,I say go for it! If you have a friend or a friend of a friend that works as a carpenter you could ask questions of that comes in handy as a resource, If there are any questions I can help with leave a message on my channel+++Bob
thats a very good product, i would only add 1/4 by 1" stainless washers in areas that are hurrican prone making it harder for the bottom plate to be snatched up during cat 4 or 5 hurrican type winds, besides they dont cost that much anyhow. Good tip thanks
Hey Bob, Could you make a video showing how to measure a wall bottom and top plate together 16 inch on center and what side of the measurement to put the X on? I never seem to get it to coe out correctly
measure your wall top to bottom... now subtract 3" for the top and bottom plates... cut would to whatever that size is.
a 2" x 4" is 1.5" thick... because of this, you need to subtract .75" to get 16" on center... so line up your first stud, your next stud should be places 15.25 (1/4)" from there and so on and so on... hope this helps
hey bob just think some of your techinques take longer then should !im an irish carpenter and if you want i could help you out and vice versa let me know regards
NIce! should a put a membrane or something between the treated wood and the concrete? for an extra bit of protection and becuase the rest of the floor has it? its like a thick plactic sheet with holes that water will flow under should it leak. Awsome vid!
I wish I'd seen this video last week! I went through a day of hell trying to get concrete epoxy out of the tube to set 10 anchors. I went back to Home Depot and they said to buy their $13 caulk gun which was a bit easier to use. I asked over and over if there was a way to avoid using the epoxy and they said NO! Now I see that I could have used these nails!
Generally split drives dont do very well in brick,What you are anchoring and for what purpose may dictate the type anchor required+++Bob ROOF TRUSS, DECK LEDGER? OR block to hang garden hose?
What you want is tap cons. Blue in color you can buy them at lowes or home depot.
You still want to use a hammer drill to drill the pilot hole. A good thing to do is drill into the morter joint rather than the brick itself if possible. Tap cons usually
I thought Tapcon screws were meant for light duty things like hanging up a mailbox, sign, or hose reel, etc. - especially in brick or cinderblock walls
Can they be used for attaching a sole plate to a hardened solid concrete floor - and then building a wall on the plates? Even if the wall is not a load-bearing wall, I didn't think Tapcon screws would be enough for the job.
Sole plate,wall plate,bottom plate,base plate,Whatever its called it still needs to be anchored,attached,fixed,connected to the floor.Thanks for watching+++Bob
I am assuming you are talking about a ramset or some other type of powder actuated concrete nail-gun. It has been my experience that they have a tendency to blow concrete out and not hold.They also have more of a tendency to split small plates and lastly it can be difficult to determine which size load to use for differing applications==Hope this helped+++Bob
... powder actuated concrete nail-gun ... a tendency to blow concrete out and not hold ... tendency to split small plates ... difficult to determine which size load to use for differing applications ...
* * * * * * * * *
Thanks for that info.
We were considering using a powder-actuated tool to attach the sole plates of our new walls to the concrete floor.
It does look like the easiest method, but if it's not a good one, we don't want to go that route.
Using a ramset fastener will work but I have noticed you get blowouts where the nail does not seed into concrete.Consistent results sometimes better than speed.When putting in small plates a ramset can sometimes split the plate while nailing.===Bob. I did not say this was the only way to do it but I believe it to be the best,most consistent way of doing it.
The other method that works is just to hammerdrill the plate and feed some wire down the hole, once the wire hits the bottom, pull the wire back up about a half inch (same wire for tying rebar by the way) and get some duplex nails and hammer them down, cut excess wire away with wire cutters if nessicary.
Great video! I subscribed a while back and I'm glad I did because I have a project where I need to do just what this video describes and this will be very helpful. Thanks!
Great video Bob! I have been in the home building business for a long time and truly feel that your options are the first class way of doing things. Ramsets are easier IF using heavy duty construction adhesives, but you have the best way of doing things. Keep up the great work; your videos are top notch for the do-it-yourselfer. Those that watch his videos, please pay attention, he shows you how to do it right, not cheap and easy. Easy will get you into trouble in the long run. Great videos!
i've always used a, well, i call it a rammer. a power actuated nailer. for me it's much easier than your method. i find it has similar strength to your nails and much faster. no drilling, no muss, no fuss.
What a hammer drill does is it works like a mini jackhammer breaking up the rock aggregate in concrete. I consider a hammer drill a must for drilling concrete,even if I had to rent one.===Bob
That was a really great explanation of how to properly attach wood to concrete, thanks Bob. It does take some planning and time, but the end result is very strong and will last a long time.
A carbide tip with hammer drill action holds up pretty well in concrete,that being said water would probably increase bit life but not enough to justify the mess.===Bob
Hmm they seem to hold on in there pretty tight! Generally I always used long screws and rawl plugs, but don't think they hold as well as that, however I like the convenience of being able unscrew it. Keep up the great tips!
Thank you for showing us DIYers how it's done! I was getting stressed out trying to find a simpler approach to this and I finally found it.
lukebuyak 4 days ago
Hey Bob
How about adding a bit of vapor barrier under that wall plate
Why use a nailing device considering you need a hammer drill, Why not use countersink concrete
screws. That way if you need to remove the sill, it can be done without destroying the wood.
Simply unscrew it. Depot and Lowes both sell Tap Cons
2x7is14stupid 1 week ago
@2x7is14stupid I have no problem using Tap-cons as a way to attach bottom plate, they will work well. I am not a big fan of vapor barrier in below grade construction, seems to me you are trapping water that would otherwise "evaporate" if allowed to breathe. +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 1 week ago
THANKS MR. BOB SCHMIDT , THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR TEACH
goodboy405 1 month ago
Thank you....
MarcSwift1 1 month ago
very simple show of how it done.thanks.
MrTidehead 1 month ago
I'm starting to expand my back patio which is concrete. It has a slight slope heading towards the back yard. Should I lay sand to even and then apply wood? Not sure where to go. Thanks Bob
joshuacan79 2 months ago
Do big-box home centers like Lowes or Home Depot carry that type of fastener? Or do I need to find an industrial fastener supplier, like many contractors probably use?
rmcdaniel423 3 months ago
@rmcdaniel423 There is a similar type that looks like a fluted galvanized 16 penny nail that also works very well that they sell at my local Home Depot.+++Bob I believe the drilling size is 3/16 instead of 1/4
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 months ago
How thoroughly do you have to remove leftover mortar from tile removal before laying down your anchor wood?
dadeo11 3 months ago
@dadeo11 Knock down the high spots and go with it +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 months ago
Excellent tips, thank you
DEXTER941 3 months ago
Ryobi drill? Seriously?
Omnimeister 5 months ago
@Omnimeister And a dull drill bit , alot of back-up stuff used on this video. lol hey it still worked . +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 5 months ago
Try a Senco air driven framing nailer with hardened nails. Bang Bang Bang you're done. Holds like an SOB in concrete. After you're done anchoring the pressure treated plate to the concrete, use it to build your walls. Makes the job almost fun.
sunny71169 6 months ago
@sunny71169 Sorry sunny, not buying this comment, have never heard of a air nailer with hardened nails designed to anchor wood to concrete. I do not believe that tool exist. Please prove me wrong +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 6 months ago
I just tried using a ramset w/ the highest strength shots available for the model I was using (HD2022 I believe) and it didn't drive the nails in far enough... so now I've got an un-anchored plate and holes in the concrete. I plan to use your method now bob, but my question is - do I need to worry about patching the holes under the plate now before drilling and anchoring w/ the split drives?
Love your videos - thanks.
TheSaxyjaz 6 months ago
@TheSaxyjaz Unless the concrete blow-out was deep then no. Move the new anchor a few inches away and install.+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 6 months ago
Why not just use a Ramset ??
usmc8542 8 months ago
@usmc8542 It has been my experience that even if you find the proper powdered shot the plates sometimes tend to split or the nail does not penetrate and hold properly. That being said, using the proper eye and ear protection and if it works well for you it is definitely less expensive. +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 8 months ago
Thanks a mill...I also heard u can drive 2 16 penyt sinkers at the same time for a solid anchor...
bearboneskentuck 11 months ago
Hey BOB You can speed up the process by drilling the hole in the treated floor plate with the 1/4 inch roto hammer bit saving one step. Drill in 3/4inch over depth and roget cleaning the debris away. Also why buy a split drive fastener when 2 -16d green vinyl sinkers are cheaper and you already have some in your tool bags? Great video.
mcbridecreek 11 months ago
Why on earth would you put the wood directly onto the concrete? All that will do is draw any water/moisture that may get on the concrete up into the walls... mould!
dbennett4 11 months ago
@dbennett4 ?>?>? Please enlighten.+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 11 months ago
@dbennett4 it is special treated wood they use
MrCoolguy6273 10 months ago
@MrCoolguy6273 Is that what he was confused on? I was expecting a way to build no floor touch walls, or some non-absorbing spacer, +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 10 months ago
bob your awsome im 18 years old and i learn more from you then i do at work thanks :).
mikeissocool19 11 months ago
@mikeissocool19 Thanks Mike, What's it like being so cool? Just kiddin Thanks for watching! Go to work tomorrow and teach them something LOL +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 11 months ago
@HomeRemodelWorkshop Haha will do .
mikeissocool19 11 months ago
@HomeRemodelWorkshop normally they only teach me what they want me to do so kind of hard to learn this whole trade then.
mikeissocool19 11 months ago
@mikeissocool19 Learning this trade is a lifetime of experiences, you take what you have learned and apply it to things you have never done before. Mistakes become fewer the longer you are in it..Hang in there and always be willing to learn new things, not just from your trade but from all the tradespeople you work with. Once you get a grasp of how the whole system works together you will become far more valuable +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 11 months ago
@HomeRemodelWorkshop ya of corse but people only hire you such as frameing walls and ect. feels mostly like you are being used almost,,,barly no one in this trade wants to hire people my age as there own apprentices its just only buissness these days and thats what makes it so hard.
mikeissocool19 11 months ago
good video!
applewhiteroad 1 year ago
Interesting fastener
Dont think it'd be a good choice for seismic zones though.
BikeManDan1 1 year ago
why do you choose this method compared to a ramset quick .22 shots? Just curious, im all about trying every method and knowing the result
InShatteredMolds 1 year ago
One word: "TAPCON" and there isn't a need to predrill the hole, that SDS hammer drill with a 3/16 bit (depending on the size of your tapcon screws) will go through the 2x4 with ease.
xguy69er 1 year ago
I like how he tells us to wear ear protection while doing this then blows my friggin ears out in the video..
KristyRocker 1 year ago
Right on! Great demonstration!
ReKaMpaM 1 year ago
do you need a permit to finish a basement?
JB122576 1 year ago
@JB122576 The generic response, Yes. +++Bob If you are dealing with any framing structurally related, heating,plumbing,electric,insulation and basic fire clearance codes and fire stops to window egress if you are putting a bedroom. You would have to know an awful lot about everything,or have total trust in the person doing the work, to feel you don't need one.
HomeRemodelWorkshop 1 year ago
The biggest problem with these pins is going to be any vertical movement.. If there was an earthquake your bottom framing plate will move right through the pin. It might be better to use a framing anchor. Personal Preference I guess...
gregvancom 1 year ago
I have a old wine basement with what looks to be rock walls (1930's-1950's I'm thinking) I'm wanting to fix it up by installing wood to the walls so that my son can use it as a woodworking shop. How would I do this?
militarysims 1 year ago
@militarysims I have always left air space between old rock walls and new wood wall framing. There is a possibility of creating leaks if you mess with old stone. The outside of building is particularly important to not disturb. The compacted earth is the best defense against leaks+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 1 year ago
How should I fix my walls in my basement?
2007omi 1 year ago
Just caught onto your videos and love them, as I just tore out my smell/rotted/horrible basement. A question that I don't see anyone else here asked (maybe because it's so basic? i'm a bit embarassed asking.)... WHY do you have to anchor the bottom plate into concrete? The walls I previously had and tore out were not anchored to the bottom or side walls which means my concrete is all in tact. I would have thought that was a GOOD thing... having concrete basement with NO holes. *confused*
halleysmommy 1 year ago
@halleysmommy A good connection between top and bottom of wall is critical to keeping wall stable. As far as the holes in floor, unless you have a serious water pressure problem comming from below is generally not an issue.+++Bob P.S Never be embarassed to ask questions!
HomeRemodelWorkshop 1 year ago
couldnt u just use a sawzall to cut em
homesnakegabe 1 year ago
Where do you get those split-drive's Bob, Menards doesn't have a clue what they are...
My concrete is so dang hard, the 16-penny sinker nail method isn't working at all for me...
67dodgepolara 1 year ago
yeah man menards has them by like the tap cons and stuff i got some last week
homesnakegabe 1 year ago
oh yeah there also called driv pins that is what i know them as
homesnakegabe 1 year ago
You could also drill 1/4 inch hole in the concrete and put 2 nails stick together it's as hard as using these nails.
Rechkalov7 2 years ago
@Rechkalov7 ha...been cheating that way meself for years.Really works well funny enough.
ah4fecksake 1 year ago
awesome
megamanfun 2 years ago
Thanks for the video.
LloydChristmas777 2 years ago
Great video! Seems like a good alternative to a powder actuated fastener.
mmedeiros09 2 years ago
I love the video and you showed all of us who have never done this before how to do it properly. There will be times when I will have to do just that when working with walls.
semco72057 2 years ago
I have found all your videos to be excellent help with my projects. Thanks very much for posting this stuff.
Paul
MountErrigal 2 years ago
No not really, a couple less tools to drive in versus screw,maybe a little faster. Even when I show one way I use definitely does not mean there are'nt equally appropriate ways of doing same thing,just trying to show an option. Thanks for watching+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
@HomeRemodelWorkshop What about Ramsets? Aren't they even faster to use?
mikecoscia 1 year ago
@mikecoscia Sometimes its difficult to figure the correct load size to use and ,depending on concrete make-up,have a tendacy to split plates and blow-out concrete. I have had more consistent results with the split drives +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 1 year ago
@HomeRemodelWorkshop holy crap thats ridiculous. ive shot thousands of plates down and even thin inch wall strapping doesnt split with the ramset or hilti. this system is sooooooooooo slow.
tubestick00 1 year ago
Hmmm... not a problem yet! but he figures while it's open what are some of the ways to improve something that could cause issues. So any spray foams, gaskets, sheet metal etc. that is known in the industry for such occassions. He's willing to hire the right professional as he wants to improve what's there already :) Thanks for your input... much appreciated! BTW, he is quite crafty with his collection of tools but not sure what's involved.
bruparelia 2 years ago
If it were open already and not weight bearing I would cut out and replace plate,but as I said I would not open anything that did'nt have to be opened just to replace plates+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
Hey Bob, question for you. A buddy of mine discovered that the his finished basement has untreated bottom plates when he opened up a section of his finished basement wall. He's now got concerns to treat this wood so that it doesn't rot. Any ideas or pointers that you may be able to share? He's afraid that this was done throughout the finished basement walls and wanted to minimize the time/cost of ripping the walls out. Can he just cut the bottom portion of the walls and treat this wood?
bruparelia 2 years ago
WHOAAAA! A treated plate is recommended for use on bottom plates. If there is not a water issue in basement then removing bottom plates would be OVERKILL. An old phrase comes to mind"If it aint broke don't fix it" When doing any new or repair work then treated.The only way I would tear out existing structure is if there was a safety issue,I cannot believe this fits that criteria, yes mold only if water condition exist, and then I would only fix water issue and replace affected wood only+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
if its not broken dont fix and if your friend have water probleme then the insurrance will do it so ...why spend money to fix something that aint broken now? and he will save money from insurrance IF water damage!
Franklovesierra 1 year ago
whats it mean to score something out?is it a construction term?
QP4ozHP8oz 1 year ago
Thanks Bob....you saved me some heartache... getting ready to frame basement and your videos have helped already. Keep up the good work
dcollea 2 years ago
This is great! I have been wanting to remodel my basement, but my family recommended that we pay a professional to do it to "make sure it gets done right." But these videos are making me reconsider... I may do this myself! Thanks!
kiasuten 2 years ago
If you have the tools,some basic skills,and a willingness to learn and work thru possible problems,I say go for it! If you have a friend or a friend of a friend that works as a carpenter you could ask questions of that comes in handy as a resource, If there are any questions I can help with leave a message on my channel+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
thats a very good product, i would only add 1/4 by 1" stainless washers in areas that are hurrican prone making it harder for the bottom plate to be snatched up during cat 4 or 5 hurrican type winds, besides they dont cost that much anyhow. Good tip thanks
andrewells134 2 years ago
thanks Bob for this instructional vid, superb.
TwoYoub 2 years ago
Thank you very much+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
Great stuff Bob! I really appreciate the tips and information you have put up. Big thumbs up!
daddog332nd 2 years ago
outstanding bob, did'nt know bout the concrete nails, was gonna use masonry screws on home project. thanks
jabo2121 2 years ago
Hey Bob, Could you make a video showing how to measure a wall bottom and top plate together 16 inch on center and what side of the measurement to put the X on? I never seem to get it to coe out correctly
fotoman54868 2 years ago
measure your wall top to bottom... now subtract 3" for the top and bottom plates... cut would to whatever that size is.
a 2" x 4" is 1.5" thick... because of this, you need to subtract .75" to get 16" on center... so line up your first stud, your next stud should be places 15.25 (1/4)" from there and so on and so on... hope this helps
mydaughtersabear 2 years ago
hey bob just think some of your techinques take longer then should !im an irish carpenter and if you want i could help you out and vice versa let me know regards
bellybitsandballs 2 years ago
I would love to share tips and techniques! Thats the idea of posting these videos! If you have some neat tips that a newbie can use do tell.+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
great video bob good job
branradioneat 2 years ago
Thanks I really appreciate that +++ BOB
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
Just plug and screw it. And it you DO make a mistake you can just unscrew it. Throw the nails away.
Etherglide 2 years ago
NIce! should a put a membrane or something between the treated wood and the concrete? for an extra bit of protection and becuase the rest of the floor has it? its like a thick plactic sheet with holes that water will flow under should it leak. Awsome vid!
12gaugesurgeon 2 years ago
NOW I find out about these - after drilling in 12 split anchors. I'm going t o have to find some of these for the next project.
rhblakeman 2 years ago
I love your vids !
chummel123 2 years ago
Happy to hear you like them+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
Glad to hear you liked it!+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
Is it possible to use screws instead?
BlueIzzzs 2 years ago
that was a great vid!! i learned a lot!
lawnside82 2 years ago
I wish I'd seen this video last week! I went through a day of hell trying to get concrete epoxy out of the tube to set 10 anchors. I went back to Home Depot and they said to buy their $13 caulk gun which was a bit easier to use. I asked over and over if there was a way to avoid using the epoxy and they said NO! Now I see that I could have used these nails!
moxee33 2 years ago
why bother pre drilling the plate?
snowboardloser 2 years ago
Although the hammer drill with the carbide tip will drill through plate and into concrete it struggles with the wood part of the drilling+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 2 years ago
good video. great ending very important getting out of trouble.
mloren1357 2 years ago
hey bob what about brick.. will it work the same if i had to anchor into brick?
nycswang 3 years ago
Generally split drives dont do very well in brick,What you are anchoring and for what purpose may dictate the type anchor required+++Bob ROOF TRUSS, DECK LEDGER? OR block to hang garden hose?
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
What you want is tap cons. Blue in color you can buy them at lowes or home depot.
You still want to use a hammer drill to drill the pilot hole. A good thing to do is drill into the morter joint rather than the brick itself if possible. Tap cons usually
come with a standard 3/16's masonry bit.
Jrm4cam 2 years ago
"Jrm4cam" Wrote"
What you want is tap cons ...
* * * * * * * * * *
I thought Tapcon screws were meant for light duty things like hanging up a mailbox, sign, or hose reel, etc. - especially in brick or cinderblock walls
Can they be used for attaching a sole plate to a hardened solid concrete floor - and then building a wall on the plates? Even if the wall is not a load-bearing wall, I didn't think Tapcon screws would be enough for the job.
Has anyone watching had luck with that?
CraftyTami 2 years ago
correct me if im wrong but isnt that a soul plate?? well thats what we call it across the pond :D
pezzza16 3 years ago
Sole plate,wall plate,bottom plate,base plate,Whatever its called it still needs to be anchored,attached,fixed,connected to the floor.Thanks for watching+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
You need a sharper drill bit there bob. haha
zedosix 3 years ago
Lol,You are right, My bits were on a job and I used an old spade bit to make vid! Nothing gets past anybody! Thanks for watching+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
Will do!+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
more vids please KEEP IT UP!!
ksteel845 3 years ago
Where can you purchase split drive concrete anchors? I didn't see them at Home Depot
gjennings1974 3 years ago
We purchase ours direct from internet.just type split drive concrete anchor search and there she be.===Merry Christmas!===Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
Bob, What is you opinion on power nail guns? The ones that use blasting caps?
formula370 3 years ago
I am assuming you are talking about a ramset or some other type of powder actuated concrete nail-gun. It has been my experience that they have a tendency to blow concrete out and not hold.They also have more of a tendency to split small plates and lastly it can be difficult to determine which size load to use for differing applications==Hope this helped+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
great video BOB!!!!
milgravis 3 years ago
Greetings milgravis from the states to Canada!===Thanks for watching. Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
I agree, really really good!!!!
cmusician 3 years ago
HomeRemodelWorkshop Wrote:
... powder actuated concrete nail-gun ... a tendency to blow concrete out and not hold ... tendency to split small plates ... difficult to determine which size load to use for differing applications ...
* * * * * * * * *
Thanks for that info.
We were considering using a powder-actuated tool to attach the sole plates of our new walls to the concrete floor.
It does look like the easiest method, but if it's not a good one, we don't want to go that route.
CraftyTami 2 years ago
Bob, I have the same framing hammer. 30+ years now.
WaterbugDesign 3 years ago
Excellent Bob... thanks for all the great, straight forward vid's /info... please keep up the great work!!!!
hwilder 3 years ago
Very interesting fasteners... I haven't seen them before. I will be looking for them and giving them a go.Thanks
243WW 3 years ago
best diy videos on the net you have. Aesome details and advice. A true contractor.
Rspringscabin 3 years ago
my dad has a gun he shoots it down whats the differnt?
derekinthehood 3 years ago
Using a ramset fastener will work but I have noticed you get blowouts where the nail does not seed into concrete.Consistent results sometimes better than speed.When putting in small plates a ramset can sometimes split the plate while nailing.===Bob. I did not say this was the only way to do it but I believe it to be the best,most consistent way of doing it.
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
The other method that works is just to hammerdrill the plate and feed some wire down the hole, once the wire hits the bottom, pull the wire back up about a half inch (same wire for tying rebar by the way) and get some duplex nails and hammer them down, cut excess wire away with wire cutters if nessicary.
KyleGLD 3 years ago
Great video! I subscribed a while back and I'm glad I did because I have a project where I need to do just what this video describes and this will be very helpful. Thanks!
gwalker107 3 years ago
Great video Bob! I have been in the home building business for a long time and truly feel that your options are the first class way of doing things. Ramsets are easier IF using heavy duty construction adhesives, but you have the best way of doing things. Keep up the great work; your videos are top notch for the do-it-yourselfer. Those that watch his videos, please pay attention, he shows you how to do it right, not cheap and easy. Easy will get you into trouble in the long run. Great videos!
josievers 3 years ago
i've always used a, well, i call it a rammer. a power actuated nailer. for me it's much easier than your method. i find it has similar strength to your nails and much faster. no drilling, no muss, no fuss.
fuckingamikek 3 years ago
hi Bob,
Where do they sell the split derive nails?
I tried a few Home Depot's and Lowes in the area and couldn't find them.
Thanks,
MA
mannyantala 3 years ago
See if you can find a fastener store in your area. If not google split drive and you can find a local suppier that way or order them online===Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
thanks Bob...Excellent video as usual...Keep'em coming!
mannyantala 3 years ago
great video Miguel
jmthouston 3 years ago
Bob, dumb question. Is it essential to use a hammer drill? Can a regular 1/2 drill cut it?
hammerofharpel 3 years ago
What a hammer drill does is it works like a mini jackhammer breaking up the rock aggregate in concrete. I consider a hammer drill a must for drilling concrete,even if I had to rent one.===Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
SDS drill also a must for lintels! Knife through butter.
zakzak000 3 years ago
you are a must have in youtube.
thanks once again, i worked in construction all my life and i see how much simpler and convenient your "tricks" are.
thanks a bunch for taking the time to make this videos, they are highly appreciated.
good luck to you.
nestorrfortuna 3 years ago
That was a really great explanation of how to properly attach wood to concrete, thanks Bob. It does take some planning and time, but the end result is very strong and will last a long time.
CameronTingley 3 years ago
Thanks Cameron===Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
Does your concrete bit have a chance of over heating like when you drill into tile?
MRSketch09 3 years ago
A carbide tip with hammer drill action holds up pretty well in concrete,that being said water would probably increase bit life but not enough to justify the mess.===Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
Hmm they seem to hold on in there pretty tight! Generally I always used long screws and rawl plugs, but don't think they hold as well as that, however I like the convenience of being able unscrew it. Keep up the great tips!
zakzak000 3 years ago
Thanks I will try.===Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago
Another great tip. Those things definately hold better than ramsets. Ramsets blow out half the time.
playdrums 3 years ago
True ,I have had the same problem myself!===Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop 3 years ago