Not in any way possible. It used a Luxeon LED system which is bottom lit. Then the blade was one I made myself using various plastic films and a PolyCarbonate outer tube.
Looks great X! And yes, awesome idea for the aux button... after all... it's nice when you can sort of press GENERALLY in an area and get an effect, vs. having to press exactly in a small 1mm area, heheh
where did you learn all you know about sabers and saber biulding its very intresting.ive made my own sabers out pvc pipes there coll for making vedeos but they dont gloe or anything
I've been learning about the community for years. I started by learning to solder from my father. The rest is just basic physics I learned and what I needed to get it done.
Pick up some basic electronics kits to start trying stuff. The Custom Saber Shop is the best resource right now. It's kind of an intimidating place for a timid newbie though.
Awesome saber. Love the aux implementation you used. Roy will be one happy customer.
Out of curiosity, what kinda battery life does this V get on the battery setup you have and does it still maintain the brightness until the PCB protection kicks in?
I'm not sure on battery life just yet... I haven't tested it or done any math to be sure.
The reason I did want to go with it though is that it can maintain brightness for much longer as it starts at 9.6V instead of 7.2V for li-ions. It won't maintain it through the full battery life but when it's not enough it'll be quickly dying soon anyway. It's NiMH though so it doesn't have a PCB, it'll just get dimmer (noticably).
The best NiMH AAA's I have seen so far are around 1000mAh. If you set the LEDCURRENT parameter in the CF board for 45 (1 amp) then you should get around 1 hour of runtime with a 1000mAh battery.
I used "tactile" switch. I've used it before and usually let the little head stick out, but on this one it worked perfectly to cover it and still have it work.
Joclad's had one and so did defyitall's parks obi.
That pretty sweet. I want you to convertmy Luke ROTJ saber that same way. o-o I only got an US board though... A 2.5 board but its ok.
jedimastergarcia87 1 year ago
Oh wow. It's very very nice. It's so bright, almost looks real.
OpenlyClosed 1 year ago
Not in any way possible. It used a Luxeon LED system which is bottom lit. Then the blade was one I made myself using various plastic films and a PolyCarbonate outer tube.
xwingband 2 years ago
what's an "erv style" dual film blade?
machiznima 3 years ago
Corbin film and a second film. I use PolyP film , but acetate and just about any clear gloss film would work the same.
xwingband 3 years ago
Looks great X! And yes, awesome idea for the aux button... after all... it's nice when you can sort of press GENERALLY in an area and get an effect, vs. having to press exactly in a small 1mm area, heheh
Great stuff.
greytale 3 years ago
Fantastic work Xwing! I LOVE the luxeon V at 1 amp. It's SO MUCH brighter then the K2 at 1.5 amps. Needs more battery, but it's worth it.
Very nice job hiding the aux button, very clever. Saber looks very nice.
Eandori 3 years ago
made it myself.
xwingband 3 years ago
where did you learn all you know about sabers and saber biulding its very intresting.ive made my own sabers out pvc pipes there coll for making vedeos but they dont gloe or anything
SithMaster5000 3 years ago
I've been learning about the community for years. I started by learning to solder from my father. The rest is just basic physics I learned and what I needed to get it done.
Pick up some basic electronics kits to start trying stuff. The Custom Saber Shop is the best resource right now. It's kind of an intimidating place for a timid newbie though.
xwingband 3 years ago
Awesome saber. Love the aux implementation you used. Roy will be one happy customer.
Out of curiosity, what kinda battery life does this V get on the battery setup you have and does it still maintain the brightness until the PCB protection kicks in?
phil56201 3 years ago
I'm not sure on battery life just yet... I haven't tested it or done any math to be sure.
The reason I did want to go with it though is that it can maintain brightness for much longer as it starts at 9.6V instead of 7.2V for li-ions. It won't maintain it through the full battery life but when it's not enough it'll be quickly dying soon anyway. It's NiMH though so it doesn't have a PCB, it'll just get dimmer (noticably).
xwingband 3 years ago
The best NiMH AAA's I have seen so far are around 1000mAh. If you set the LEDCURRENT parameter in the CF board for 45 (1 amp) then you should get around 1 hour of runtime with a 1000mAh battery.
Eandori 3 years ago
thats cool!!!! i cant fined a retern of the jedi saber=( so that makes it so much cooler
xDARTHZARx 3 years ago
nice ROTJ saber there good job :)
Joda888 3 years ago
Now that's awesome!!!! Never knew an auxilary switch would work that way.
Jedi554 3 years ago
I used "tactile" switch. I've used it before and usually let the little head stick out, but on this one it worked perfectly to cover it and still have it work.
Joclad's had one and so did defyitall's parks obi.
xwingband 3 years ago