@Redmonkey118 For a spindle-driven Go-Ped, it's on the fast side. Chain-driven scooters have the ability to go quite a bit faster. The setup in this video could pull gearing for close to 40mph on a chain-driven Go-Ped pretty easily. There's a reason why the Sport and the Super X-Ped are the only two spindle-driven Go-Peds still produced.
If I buy a G240RC engine will it go right on my x-ped and is it a racing motor because I just want something fast but not for racing? Also what engine would you recommend that has lots of power, is pretty fast, isn't for racing, low maintenance, and cost less than $400. If I buy the engine with a cluch, will it idle while still. I'm not looking into adding to many performance parts to whatever engine I get. sorry for asking so many questions but i just got my first gas scooter.
@bulltex95 Sorry for the late reply (fuck YouTube for forcing my notifications to Gmail with the accounts connected). Yes, the G240RC is a direct bolt-on and will be plenty fast and powerful. I would recommend the G240RC, and if you still want more power later on, you can bolt on the G290RC BBK. Yes, you can get a clutch if you want it to idle at a standstill, but you'll need the ADA clutch adapter, which isn't cheap. Let me know if you need more help, and sorry again for the late reply!
@bulltex95 You'd pick up 2-3 mph, but a .800 is pretty big for a bone stock Sport. I wouldn't go any larger than .710 if you have a G23LH or .750 if you have a GPL290.
@iAmped7 You can put on the stock filter or any filter than will fit on a velocity stack (provided you have a velocity stack). The bolt spacing is the same for both the G23LH manifold and RC manifold. You can find some air filters at DavesDiscountMotors. com or GoMeyer. com (obviously remove the spaces).
What a coincidence! It's about the best not-ported, non-reeded setup there is if you ask me. I'm waiting on the four-bolt Zenoah 36mm BBK that I'll send to Doug to have ported, though. This is Sport 29, BTW. Aren't you oscaryu1?
I'm not surprised, typical 38mm boss GP290RS. Just another reason why I can't wait for the four-bolt 36mm Zenoah BBK.
Yeah, I'm surprised how high it revs out. That's why I prefer a stock-length crank over the +2mm strokers that are all the rage these days. And worried about what? I just want a little more power and having this thing with such shitty, worn out plating ported would be a waste whereas a Zenoah would last a very long time.
I bought one from thugginfasho on GPN and he said the crank was definitely a 2mm stuffer stroker because that's all he uses. Well, somehow that "2mm" stroker is able to fit into my G23LH with no cylinder gasket. SO, I'm pretty sure it's a stock stroke stuffer crank, which is what I was looking for for my GP290RS, but I still need the 2mm for the G23LH.
Yeah... he sold me a "Working" LH with a cracked intake port... his OWN user error (too long of carby bolt), won't even seal up. $50 for a new head :(
Yeah, I was talking to you about buying the 2mm but you said you bought it for a much higher price (so I understand if you don't want to sell it for much less than $40). I've got a 1mm stuffer stroker and plain Chung Yang RC crank. But yeah, he seemed a little untrustworthy, but at least it worked out since I was looking for a 28mm stuffer crank for my GP290RS, which is obviously my main engine. Now I have to pull it out of my G23LH, though and pull my 1mm stuffer out of the GP290RS, though. :P
1mm stuffers are right "in the middle" hehe. I'm pretty sure it's what most RPM peeps want. Enough torque to run a larger spindle, but not enough stroke to really down the RPM's (maybe a couple hundred at most).
Meh...I lost the last peak in the S1's powerband and I'm really not sure that I picked up that much torque, so screw that. Stock stroke FTMFW! I want to make my G23LH a torque monster, though. It's got a .585 Black Magic spindle, HPI 32mm piston with a 0.7mm ring, a WA-167, heli can, and now it needs a 2mm stuffer stroker. I had my stock RC crank in it, but I decided I wanted to see how much I could get out of it.
Well, if you have a good ring there shouldn't be any less compression, but freer revs. ;) Having two huge stock rings is definitely more reliable, though. I guess I'm going for something that revs freely (it's WAY better than stock in that standpoint) and also has a lot of torque. It'll already pull up hills with minimal speed loss.
Sure, but just slightly. There was hardly any bog, it's just the sudden peak after initial acceleration that made it seem that way. However, due to its size relative the engine, the carb I had could be a little boggy at times, but the carb I have now (which was released since then) has an accelerator pump to help remedy this issue. I can assure you, either way I would have accelerated at about the same rate. If anything, my sub-100 pound weight at that time gave me such quick acceleration.
No, just a Walbro WT-813. When I made this video it had a "race ported" WT-603 (the one from DDM, if you know the site) with the choke removed. The WT-813 is essentially the same as the WT-603 except that it has the accelerator pump instead of the choke, which smooths out the low to high jet transition. Not really a performance gain, just smoother operation.
Cool! I wasn't sure if you knew about WTs seeing as you don't have any Go-Ped/large scale RC-related videos, but I neglected the fact that they're so widely used. The WT-813 performs exactly the same as the WT-603 does, but the low to high jet transition is smoothed out because of the accelerator pump. I wouldn't call it a performance gain, just an improvement in how it operates; it's easier "felt" than explained.
Hmmm...well that is a larger engine, so a WT-813 shouldn't be too big for it (and therefore not too boggy). If you ask me, I think it'd be just about the right size. Any idea what size the bore and venturi are of the stock carb? I think it'd be a pretty good choice, and it can be had for $45 plus shipping at DavesMotors (.) com, part number av522, or you could get the av110 kit with at least some parts you could use for the same price.
The 603 and the 813 are actually the same, just the 813 has an additional fuel pump to help with acceleration.
Main problem is I'm gearing it LOW, 6/54.
I know, but you have to remember I have 13cc's more of power, a $180 Viza Exhaust, custom porting by my friend, case port and polish, (maybe) lightened flywheel, 10 degrees advanced timing, heavy duty clutch...
Lol. I'm looking for a ok low end torque but terrific high end type of scooter :)
Yeah, that's what I was saying in the first place about the WT-603 and WT-813. For that type of engine, designed for much lower performance than RC engines, a WT-813 should be a perfect fit for the flow it'll need and should go well with those mods.
Yeah, it's not bad for just a little sub-30cc scooter! And that's just a high performance engine with a pipe. If it had a reed and porting, it'd have close to another 2hp!
You could see if a local dealer (if you have one) sells aftermarket parts, but I don't think many do. Why don't you just order online since you have access. Any of the major aftermarket part websites are VERY safe and reliable.
Haha, no, just been into them long enough to know a lot about them. There's not a lot to them, so it shouldn't take you too long to figure them out, either. :)
No, you're correct. The air filter mounts to the carb, which mounts to the intake manifold, which mounts to the engine. The air filter/velocity stack and carb share the same bolts, so you slide the velocity stack or air filter onto the bolts first, then slide them through the carbs and gaskets into the corresponding holes on the intake manifold (it bolts to the engine with separate bolts) and tighten the assembly down.
The engine itself is fully assembled, you just have to bolt (or screw) it on. On the topic, I again recommend ordering four new engine mount screws just in case you need them (they're only $0.60 each, I think). The pipe is relatively simple to install, but the hardest part will be drilling out the handlebar latch rivets so that you can bolt on the pipe mount. Do that while the engine and tank are off. The airfilter is THE easiest modification to install. Just unbolt the old and install the new.
thanks thi is all the stuff im getting g260rc in chrome,airfilter,v-stack,pipe,a carbon silencer, and a blk magic .800 spindle,anything else i should get?and i dnt get should i get crb wth engine?
I'd get a .800, larger than that and you won't be able to put on a new tire. Heck, I have enough trouble putting on a new tire with my .800. Plus, larger than that the power loss of the taller ratio offsets the potential top speed gain.
Yeah, that sounds good. You can get an "hp" air filter, but I was just saying you shouldn't cheap out on the engine just to get an air filter and velocity stack. I recommend the GBE velocity stack because it's the only one that gives you a real performance gain. You won't notice a difference besides looks when using a normal velocity stack. Oh, and if you weren't going to already, get a Black Magic spindle. They NEVER wear out and grip the tire better than any other spindle design.
Yes, you need to get an hp carb regardless of the RC engine. Using a stock G23LH or GPL290 carb would take away a lot of power and they aren't tunable to adjust for pipes. You can't mount the stock air filter to a velocity stack, but if you're getting an aftermarket filter you have to get a velocity stack so you can mount it to the carb.
on ddm they have a cy29 engine im getting it without a carb and without a clutch do i need a clutch? and do i need to buy a airfilter with or without a v-stack anf should i get a choke?
PLEASE do not get that engine nor the CY27RC, they're the worst of them all. The clearance between the piston and cylinder is much smaller than that of any other Go-Ped engine, making those a lot more easy to seize. I'm telling you, get a G260RC! You get what you pay for. Regardless, it's completely useless to buy an RC engine without an hp carb. You don't need a clutch, and they come with a filter. If you're getting an "hp" air filter, get the GBE velocity stack separately.
The carburetors come with a choke if required (the WT-813 on the G260RC doesn't come with one, nor does it need one). I'd be much more worth your money to buy the G260RC instead of getting a velocity stack and air filter for the CY29RC, which do very little to improve performance.
And actually, what model do you have? If it's chain driven, you'll need a clutch. If it's spindle driven, you don't. But you will need the carburetor regardless unless you have a properly sized hp one already.
and i have a problem adjusting my tire the black thing that hangs down doesnt go tight and the wing nut i s tight and the silver thing is in the right place and everything
Sounds like the threads on the quick release are worn out. You can just order the quick release axle bolt itself to replace it; you don't need the whole assembly.
That'd probably be a better idea unless they're more expensive than DDM (which they likely are). You can always buy a used pipe, too. Pipes don't wear out or anything. Besides having a little oil in/on them (which would happen quickly to a new one), they're the exact same, except a lot cheaper. You should easily be able to get a used ADA S1 for $75 or less.
Well, but realize you're not going to gain much if any top speed. If I were you'd I'd just save up to get the pipe that fulfills the reason you want a pipe rather than just buying one to have one.
Probably just over 30 (maybe 31) with a torque pipe. With an ADA S1 you could probably hit 34. I've GPSed mine at 33.6 and my engine is bigger, so with a smaller bore you should be able to get a slightly higher top speed, or at least the same.
If you're going for speed, a torque pipe isn't the way to go. You don't pick up much top-end with a torque pipe. Stick with a .800 spindle, but I highly suggested an ADA S1, especially if you're going for speed.
I've got one of the early GP290RSs. If I were to get a new engine it'd be a G260RC or G270RC. The plating is crap on my GP290RS, I'm surprised it hasn't seized yet. The quality of the GP290RS has improved, but it's still hit and miss, unlike a high-quality Zenoah engine.
Yeah, the G260RC is the best two-bolt, so good choice. Is it a Sikk Torque Pipe? Those are replicas of the Engine Trix torque pipe, which is the best torque pipe out there. Anyway, you could run a .800. I wouldn't go higher than that, you'll run not only into fitment issues, but acceleration won't be too quick, either. Are you going for torque/acceleration or speed?
Which engine and pipe do you plan to get? Air filters don't do much more than make it look cool, although if you get the GBE velocity stack you'll pick up a little low-end and be able to tune your carb richer (which means less chance of a seize).
The end-bleeds are supposed to give more torque, but center-bleeds are usually better all-around. End-bleeds are louder than center-bleeds, too (which is a bad thing for street riding). If you're getting a pipe, I recommend getting an ADA S1.
The pipe would be the new exhaust. The stock muffler has to be removed to mount the pipe. Don't run the engine without an exhaust, you risk warping the cylinder since cool air has much easier access to the exhaust port, plus it's WAY too loud.
um and i have another questin how much does it cost for most places to install a engine because dont know how to and i dont want to spend a llot of money
I have no idea, but probably WAY more than it should! It's very simple to do it yourself. Just remove the three nuts holding the tank on and slide it off the studs. Next, remove the four engine mount screws through the corresponding holes on the tank side of the fender. Be sure to put pressure on them so as not to strip them out (you might want to order some spares just in case; they're cheap). Then, remove the fuel lines and plug them with two of the mount screws.
You can use a small flat head to stick under the lips of the lines to get them off the barbs. Lastly is removing the spindle. Get a long M6 bolt (DDM sells them as flywheel puller bolts for $0.50, you only need one ) and screw it into one of the holes near the center of the flywheel until it stops. Check that the flywheel won't move, then loosen the bolt holding on the spindle. After that, spray some sort of penetrating spray (if all else fails, WD-40 will usually make do) inside the spindle.
Let it sit for about 10-15 minutes with the engine on its side and the spindle sticking up into the air. Then, LIGHTLY tap a hammer on the spindle to try to get it to budge. You can also stick a screwdriver in the hole and wiggle or tap it to get the spindle off. Just don't hit the spindle directly too hard or you'll possibly bend the crankshaft. After writing all of that, I now realize you're probably not going to be reusing the stock spindle. Oh well, now you know!
Just reassemble it backwards from disassembly, it'll be even easier. Saying that, it appears my comments have been posted in reverse, so if you're reading this first you need to start from the bottom instead. Anyway, it's a REALLY simple task and the hardest part (which only requires patience) is removing the spindle, which I doubt you'll be doing. At least try doing this yourself and if you just can't do it after trying a while (anyone is capable of doing it), THEN take it somewhere for help.
i have a questin i roe my friends goped and when i taped the gas it jerked me back im getting all of the same upgrades how could i go full speed and not get jerked back?
No problem! Those pipes are geared more for low-end power and torque than all-around performance, so the Sikk Center-Bleed Torque Pipe would get my vote for its low-end performance. The S2 will give better top-end performance than a Sikk Torque Pipe, so I suppose it'd be better all-around, but it wouldn't be my choice.
Assuming you have the stock G23LH, I'd run a .710 if you want to be able to wheelie easily. If it's a GPL290 or 32mm bore RC engine, I'd run a .750. If it's a 34mm bore or larger RC engine, I'd run a .800. Most people like to run .800s regardless of setup, which will work fine and leave you with decent acceleration, but if you have a smaller engine with less torque, you'll have to sacrifice some top speed if you really want decent enough torque to do wheelies and have quick acceleration.
Considering they now share the same GPL290 engine, it's just a choice between chain-drive or spindle-drive (assuming you're talking about the GSR Sport). I'd probably get the GSR Sport since it can be used in wet conditions much more easily. Acceleration won't be as quick as the Sport, but it'll top out at a higher speed than a regular Sport.
The GSR Sport is chain-driven and the Sport is spindle-driven (sorry if I didn't make that clear in my first comment). And no, the pipes available for the two are not interchangeable without modification. The aftermarket cans are interchangeable since they don't require mounting brackets unique to different models, but they don't give you much of a performance gain.
Yeah, the GSR Sport is faster, stock, but the Sport will accelerate faster. The reason the GSR Sport tops out faster yet accelerates slower is because it has higher gearing, which it's able to have because it has a clutch. So basically, if you care more about top speed than acceleration, then the GSR Sport is what you're looking for.
I personally prefer spindle since I like quick acceleration out of the hole more. For all-around riding, a GSR Sport would be better since you can ride in the wet without worrying about spindle slippage and you can come to full stops without the engine cutting off since it has a clutch (which means no rolling through stop signs).
Nothing much man.. Just been looking around on craiglist for a cheap ped.. And i just youtube a sport ped and i saw your name and was like woah.. LOL Long time no talk....
Yeah, the RC engines all come with an "HP" WT carb. This came with a WT-668 since it's a Chung Yang, but I put a DDM "Race Ported" WT-603 on there from the start because the WT-668 has more precise jetting and therefore can require more frequent tuning. Currently it has a WT-813. It's basically a WT-603/WT-668 but has an accelerator pump to smooth out the transition from the low to high jet for less lag.
Yeah, sounds like they're pretty strict over there. Don't they take and destroy any scooter or minimoto they see being ridden on the street? I know some people who ride anyway...
Yeah, I had a minimoto once that I got caught riding on public roads, the officer let me off fortunately..but I have a minimoto I can't do anything with now and there are no race meetings near me either. I'll probably end up buying one anyway and taking it away from main roads.
Yeah, that sucks. How far away are you from the open countryside where you can ride more easily? Oh yeah, what type of bike do you have, just out of curiosity?
There's some countryside near me so I guessI could go there without being caught.The bike I have..it's a Polini 911 Rep, always reliable, not so fast though.
Maybe you should try that, at least the police around there won't know you and that'll hopefully just mean a warning since it'd be your first time. I thought the water-cooled Chinese bikes were supposed to be pretty fast and powerful for their price. All I have is a junky Cag. lol
Speaking of Polinis, I had the privilege to see a real Polini 6.2 at the AMA Superbike race out at a newer track near me. It had a Ducati-styled fairing and was in a Ducati vendor tent. It only cost a mere $2099. lol
Well yeah, it's a good bike, but the exhaust kills the output, and the standard clutch doesn't help with the take-offs either.
It always bogs at full speed, so I'm guessing it's running a little rich. Perhaps just the exhaust though. The build quality of the thing is great though so maybe I'll just stick a real polini engine in there..they're still pretty damn expensive, at least..the last time I checked.
Get a Polini pipe and put it on there if it's not too expensive. Also, is it "sputtering" at top speed. That means it's too rich up top. Bogging is caused by a lean mixture, though. If it's bogging from low-range through mid-range rpm, take the needle out of the carb and move the c-clip down a couple of notches or so. If it's like Cags, the carbs are set at the top (or leanest) notch in stock form.
Polini engines aren't cheap, getting a used one would be your best bet.
Yeah, I guess you could call it spluttering. I haven't ever opened the carb on this bike - never needed to - unlike the first cag I had.
Is there a standard physical fitting size for the jet or will any jet fit?
Hmm..the genuine Polini pipe is over £200..$400?
I'm thinking of maybe just getting a blata elite 4.2. UNLESS I could get something from the states cheaper with the current exhange rate - I've got around $1,200 to spend. You know of any good us sites that ship to the UK?
I'm not too familiar with those carbs, but maybe the jet for the top end is indeed a little small. Just get a jet kit and find a combination that works well.
They're all the same size (for a specific carb) but with different sized openings/holes.
I wasn't sure how much it cost, but I wouldn't doubt it's that pricey.
A Blata would be a nice upgrade for sure! I'm not sure where you could buy any REAL name-brand bikes, but check PocketBikePlanet . com and see if they can help you find a bike.
no ur going 34 max because i have gp290rs a 710 bm 3rd bearing and im going 31 and i also have a juice box.. now im 33 and i just baught a 800 bm fur 3rd bearing and then i will be going 37 and THEN with a pipe i will hit 41..
Let me guess, you also calculated this riding alongside a car. You're not getting 17700 rpm under load with your current setup, and you won't be getting 19500 rpm by adding a pipe. ROFL! The only situation where 19500 rpm would possibly be attainable under load would be with a piped, ported, and reeded RC engine making around 7hp.
Thanks man! It's a great pipe! Actually I had a ADA S1 Works (same as regular S1, just no chrome) on in that video, which is pretty much identical to the Sikk S1 I have now. The only difference is that the Sikk has a slightly shorter tip on the end than the ADA (actually a mistake) that results in the Sikk S1 having around 0.3-0.4hp more, but you can't tell much of a difference. The ADA S1 is the best pipe you can currently buy new in my book!
It's a Sikk S1, not a Sikk M1. How hard is that to understand? View my other video for proof. It's a centerbleed, not an endbleed. Again, Sikk copied ADA's S1 design for the most part but made the end cone shorter and more round. ADA sued and Sikk was forced to stop selling and making the Sikk S1s. The Sikk M1 is basically a endbleed S1 and since ADA doesn't sell an endbleed S1 (due to the fact that it's less powerful and louder in endbleed form), Sikk was allowed to continue selling the M1.
Fuck off dumbass, you obviously don't know what you're talking about. Sikk used to make a copy of the ADA S1 called the Sikk S1 before ADA sued them for copying their design. The Sikk S1 actually makes 0.3-0.4 hp more than the ADA S1 (shorter and more round tip at the end). I have owned both an ADA S1 (first pipe) and this Sikk S1, and sold the ADA S1 to a friend once I got the Sikk S1.
Yeah, you gotta love the S1's powerband. You should get a real Go-Ped, they sell a model called the GTR that reaches about 30 mph with stock gearing and has a little over 6" of suspension travel front and rear
looks like some good pick up there I bought one a couple years ago china made tops out at 20 mph 43 cc motor on mine. lots of fun I ride the fire lanes in the pine forest.
1080!!!
koopsta69 4 months ago
33mph is that fast for a motor scooter (stand only no seats)
Redmonkey118 9 months ago
@Redmonkey118 For a spindle-driven Go-Ped, it's on the fast side. Chain-driven scooters have the ability to go quite a bit faster. The setup in this video could pull gearing for close to 40mph on a chain-driven Go-Ped pretty easily. There's a reason why the Sport and the Super X-Ped are the only two spindle-driven Go-Peds still produced.
NFSGamerUSA 8 months ago
@NFSGamerUSA gotcha thank you (:
Redmonkey118 8 months ago
If I buy a G240RC engine will it go right on my x-ped and is it a racing motor because I just want something fast but not for racing? Also what engine would you recommend that has lots of power, is pretty fast, isn't for racing, low maintenance, and cost less than $400. If I buy the engine with a cluch, will it idle while still. I'm not looking into adding to many performance parts to whatever engine I get. sorry for asking so many questions but i just got my first gas scooter.
bulltex95 1 year ago
@bulltex95 Sorry for the late reply (fuck YouTube for forcing my notifications to Gmail with the accounts connected). Yes, the G240RC is a direct bolt-on and will be plenty fast and powerful. I would recommend the G240RC, and if you still want more power later on, you can bolt on the G290RC BBK. Yes, you can get a clutch if you want it to idle at a standstill, but you'll need the ADA clutch adapter, which isn't cheap. Let me know if you need more help, and sorry again for the late reply!
NFSGamerUSA 1 year ago
how fast was that :0
ben1997neale 1 year ago
@ben1997neale I'm not sure, but I've GPSed it at about 34mph at one point in time.
NFSGamerUSA 1 year ago
What would the difference in speed if i put the same spindle you have on a stock goped sport?
bulltex95 1 year ago
@bulltex95 You'd pick up 2-3 mph, but a .800 is pretty big for a bone stock Sport. I wouldn't go any larger than .710 if you have a G23LH or .750 if you have a GPL290.
NFSGamerUSA 1 year ago
what kinda air filter can i get with a walbro 603 carbb?
iAmped7 1 year ago
@iAmped7 You can put on the stock filter or any filter than will fit on a velocity stack (provided you have a velocity stack). The bolt spacing is the same for both the G23LH manifold and RC manifold. You can find some air filters at DavesDiscountMotors. com or GoMeyer. com (obviously remove the spaces).
NFSGamerUSA 1 year ago
Zomg, I came back and realized I almost have the same exact setup as you 8D
briggsandclones 2 years ago
What a coincidence! It's about the best not-ported, non-reeded setup there is if you ask me. I'm waiting on the four-bolt Zenoah 36mm BBK that I'll send to Doug to have ported, though. This is Sport 29, BTW. Aren't you oscaryu1?
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Oya i is :D
Yeah... my GP290 head cracked on me :'(
Hehe, your's is fast, and will beat 90% of the GPN population :O Why is you worried :D?
Who're you on GPN? :O
briggsandclones 2 years ago
I'm not surprised, typical 38mm boss GP290RS. Just another reason why I can't wait for the four-bolt 36mm Zenoah BBK.
Yeah, I'm surprised how high it revs out. That's why I prefer a stock-length crank over the +2mm strokers that are all the rage these days. And worried about what? I just want a little more power and having this thing with such shitty, worn out plating ported would be a waste whereas a Zenoah would last a very long time.
I already said this was Sport 29! lol
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
I love 2mm strokers xD
They're amazing. I pull a .800 like it's nothing... so I got a .900.
2mm is worth it. NOT the stuffer version. I hate stuffing cases, it's all hype.
briggsandclones 2 years ago
I pull a .800 like it's nothing, too. It'll wheelie hitting the first peak if you don't lean forward. :D
Since you dislike stuffer cranks so much, would you again consider selling the 2mm stuffer stroker you have so I can put it in my G23LH? ;D
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
It's already in mai LH :'(
But I'll keep a watch, these days nobody wanna let these 2mm strokers go :O
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Alright, well let me know if you pull it out. :P
I bought one from thugginfasho on GPN and he said the crank was definitely a 2mm stuffer stroker because that's all he uses. Well, somehow that "2mm" stroker is able to fit into my G23LH with no cylinder gasket. SO, I'm pretty sure it's a stock stroke stuffer crank, which is what I was looking for for my GP290RS, but I still need the 2mm for the G23LH.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
OH YOU'RE THAT GUY :D
Yeah... he sold me a "Working" LH with a cracked intake port... his OWN user error (too long of carby bolt), won't even seal up. $50 for a new head :(
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Yeah, I was talking to you about buying the 2mm but you said you bought it for a much higher price (so I understand if you don't want to sell it for much less than $40). I've got a 1mm stuffer stroker and plain Chung Yang RC crank. But yeah, he seemed a little untrustworthy, but at least it worked out since I was looking for a 28mm stuffer crank for my GP290RS, which is obviously my main engine. Now I have to pull it out of my G23LH, though and pull my 1mm stuffer out of the GP290RS, though. :P
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
1mm stuffers are right "in the middle" hehe. I'm pretty sure it's what most RPM peeps want. Enough torque to run a larger spindle, but not enough stroke to really down the RPM's (maybe a couple hundred at most).
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Meh...I lost the last peak in the S1's powerband and I'm really not sure that I picked up that much torque, so screw that. Stock stroke FTMFW! I want to make my G23LH a torque monster, though. It's got a .585 Black Magic spindle, HPI 32mm piston with a 0.7mm ring, a WA-167, heli can, and now it needs a 2mm stuffer stroker. I had my stock RC crank in it, but I decided I wanted to see how much I could get out of it.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
You might find it weird O.O But I'm a FTW guy of two ringed pistons. Sure, less friction, but by god the compression GAINED is totally worth it.
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Well, if you have a good ring there shouldn't be any less compression, but freer revs. ;) Having two huge stock rings is definitely more reliable, though. I guess I'm going for something that revs freely (it's WAY better than stock in that standpoint) and also has a lot of torque. It'll already pull up hills with minimal speed loss.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Orly? I put in a brand new nickel plated 32mm piston n' ring into a LH, and it had LOADS less compression :(
IDk about performance, it was iffie D:
briggsandclones 2 years ago
I'd think it should have the same unless there was a compression leak, which is obviously a lot more likely to occur with a thinner ring.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Yup, but don'tcha think a .7mm ring is a BIT thin? :O
briggsandclones 2 years ago
I don't have any blowby! :D
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
My brand new GP290 piston had huge burn marks after 5 tanx :'(
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Well, all I can say is RC engines are high maintenance!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
thats pretty quick :O
fingalickenchicken 2 years ago
Thanks!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
hey im getting a goped ped with a g260rc engine .800 spindle and a ada s1 pipe and a ufo airfilter how fast do you think it would go
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Like I said before, you could at least reach 32 mph or so, maybe up to 34 mph if you're pretty light weight.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Ordered mine yesterday :)
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Nice, let me know how it works out! Hope I guided you to the right carb!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
You were going down a hill lol.
briggsandclones 2 years ago
No, not really. It's slightly angled but no more than a couple of degrees. It would have accelerated the same either way.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
That angling helps. Notice how you start off a BIT boggy (high gearing), then the powerband kicks in and you're off flying.
That little declining "hill" gave you that little boost to start off that fast, and then let the poewrband kick in.
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Sure, but just slightly. There was hardly any bog, it's just the sudden peak after initial acceleration that made it seem that way. However, due to its size relative the engine, the carb I had could be a little boggy at times, but the carb I have now (which was released since then) has an accelerator pump to help remedy this issue. I can assure you, either way I would have accelerated at about the same rate. If anything, my sub-100 pound weight at that time gave me such quick acceleration.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
I getcha. What'd you put on it? A Tillotson? lol.
briggsandclones 2 years ago
No, just a Walbro WT-813. When I made this video it had a "race ported" WT-603 (the one from DDM, if you know the site) with the choke removed. The WT-813 is essentially the same as the WT-603 except that it has the accelerator pump instead of the choke, which smooths out the low to high jet transition. Not really a performance gain, just smoother operation.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Ohey! I got my hands on alot of them!
Do you prefer the 813 or the 603 for good low end and good high end?
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Cool! I wasn't sure if you knew about WTs seeing as you don't have any Go-Ped/large scale RC-related videos, but I neglected the fact that they're so widely used. The WT-813 performs exactly the same as the WT-603 does, but the low to high jet transition is smoothed out because of the accelerator pump. I wouldn't call it a performance gain, just an improvement in how it operates; it's easier "felt" than explained.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
I getcha!
Well right now it depends, I'm using a little 36cc engine that was made to be used with gear reduction...
However, I wanted more speed, so I'm flipping the motor around, taking off the gear reduction, and putting in a 6 tooth clutch drum for it.
It will have definite bog from the start, as it's a piston ported little 36cc engine - and it has to move a crapload of things...
But you have to sacrafice something :-\
So for me, do you think it's worth it?
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Hmmm...well that is a larger engine, so a WT-813 shouldn't be too big for it (and therefore not too boggy). If you ask me, I think it'd be just about the right size. Any idea what size the bore and venturi are of the stock carb? I think it'd be a pretty good choice, and it can be had for $45 plus shipping at DavesMotors (.) com, part number av522, or you could get the av110 kit with at least some parts you could use for the same price.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
The 603 and the 813 are actually the same, just the 813 has an additional fuel pump to help with acceleration.
Main problem is I'm gearing it LOW, 6/54.
I know, but you have to remember I have 13cc's more of power, a $180 Viza Exhaust, custom porting by my friend, case port and polish, (maybe) lightened flywheel, 10 degrees advanced timing, heavy duty clutch...
Lol. I'm looking for a ok low end torque but terrific high end type of scooter :)
briggsandclones 2 years ago
Yeah, that's what I was saying in the first place about the WT-603 and WT-813. For that type of engine, designed for much lower performance than RC engines, a WT-813 should be a perfect fit for the flow it'll need and should go well with those mods.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Sweet, thanks man xD
briggsandclones 2 years ago
No problem! Let me know how it goes and/or if you upload a video about it!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
HOLYSHIT, that little thing is fast!
therealhuy 2 years ago
Yeah, it's not bad for just a little sub-30cc scooter! And that's just a high performance engine with a pipe. If it had a reed and porting, it'd have close to another 2hp!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
hey do you know of anyplace that i can get parts besides online
fichtank69 2 years ago
You could see if a local dealer (if you have one) sells aftermarket parts, but I don't think many do. Why don't you just order online since you have access. Any of the major aftermarket part websites are VERY safe and reliable.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
are you like a mechnic or something becaus you know a lot about gopeds!
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Haha, no, just been into them long enough to know a lot about them. There's not a lot to them, so it shouldn't take you too long to figure them out, either. :)
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
okay thanks
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
No problem!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
okay thanks do i need to geet a v-stack?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
If you're getting an aftermarket air filter, yes. You don't need one if you're just going to stick with the stock filter.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
wait where is the carb located is it where the air filter goes? or am i think of something else?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
No, you're correct. The air filter mounts to the carb, which mounts to the intake manifold, which mounts to the engine. The air filter/velocity stack and carb share the same bolts, so you slide the velocity stack or air filter onto the bolts first, then slide them through the carbs and gaskets into the corresponding holes on the intake manifold (it bolts to the engine with separate bolts) and tighten the assembly down.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
does the engine come ready to install the pipe and is the airfilter hard to install
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
The engine itself is fully assembled, you just have to bolt (or screw) it on. On the topic, I again recommend ordering four new engine mount screws just in case you need them (they're only $0.60 each, I think). The pipe is relatively simple to install, but the hardest part will be drilling out the handlebar latch rivets so that you can bolt on the pipe mount. Do that while the engine and tank are off. The airfilter is THE easiest modification to install. Just unbolt the old and install the new.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
thanks thi is all the stuff im getting g260rc in chrome,airfilter,v-stack,pipe,a carbon silencer, and a blk magic .800 spindle,anything else i should get?and i dnt get should i get crb wth engine?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Excellent choice on the engine! Yes, get the hp carb with the engine.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
what size spindle shoul i get .80 or .850 or what?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
I'd get a .800, larger than that and you won't be able to put on a new tire. Heck, I have enough trouble putting on a new tire with my .800. Plus, larger than that the power loss of the taller ratio offsets the potential top speed gain.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
wait so is this all that i should get:engine,pipe,silencer,new spindle? b/c i do want an airfilter n it hat else should i get?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Yeah, that sounds good. You can get an "hp" air filter, but I was just saying you shouldn't cheap out on the engine just to get an air filter and velocity stack. I recommend the GBE velocity stack because it's the only one that gives you a real performance gain. You won't notice a difference besides looks when using a normal velocity stack. Oh, and if you weren't going to already, get a Black Magic spindle. They NEVER wear out and grip the tire better than any other spindle design.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
so if im getting the g260rc should i get a carb n it even if im ordering the airfilter and should i get a vstack?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Yes, you need to get an hp carb regardless of the RC engine. Using a stock G23LH or GPL290 carb would take away a lot of power and they aren't tunable to adjust for pipes. You can't mount the stock air filter to a velocity stack, but if you're getting an aftermarket filter you have to get a velocity stack so you can mount it to the carb.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
on ddm they have a cy29 engine im getting it without a carb and without a clutch do i need a clutch? and do i need to buy a airfilter with or without a v-stack anf should i get a choke?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
PLEASE do not get that engine nor the CY27RC, they're the worst of them all. The clearance between the piston and cylinder is much smaller than that of any other Go-Ped engine, making those a lot more easy to seize. I'm telling you, get a G260RC! You get what you pay for. Regardless, it's completely useless to buy an RC engine without an hp carb. You don't need a clutch, and they come with a filter. If you're getting an "hp" air filter, get the GBE velocity stack separately.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
The carburetors come with a choke if required (the WT-813 on the G260RC doesn't come with one, nor does it need one). I'd be much more worth your money to buy the G260RC instead of getting a velocity stack and air filter for the CY29RC, which do very little to improve performance.
And actually, what model do you have? If it's chain driven, you'll need a clutch. If it's spindle driven, you don't. But you will need the carburetor regardless unless you have a properly sized hp one already.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
and i have a problem adjusting my tire the black thing that hangs down doesnt go tight and the wing nut i s tight and the silver thing is in the right place and everything
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Sounds like the threads on the quick release are worn out. You can just order the quick release axle bolt itself to replace it; you don't need the whole assembly.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
r if im not going to buy from daves motors then i might buy all the suff from my local goped place which i ca go o this weekend
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
That'd probably be a better idea unless they're more expensive than DDM (which they likely are). You can always buy a used pipe, too. Pipes don't wear out or anything. Besides having a little oil in/on them (which would happen quickly to a new one), they're the exact same, except a lot cheaper. You should easily be able to get a used ADA S1 for $75 or less.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
i see your point i think i might just do that
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
by any chance do you know how much oil you put in ith that engine like 25:1
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Yeah, it's 25:1; 5.12 ounces per gallon, or 40 milliliters per liter.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
ithink i m going with the sikk its $80 and im already spending a lot im not going to use 70 more for 4 mph faster
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Well, but realize you're not going to gain much if any top speed. If I were you'd I'd just save up to get the pipe that fulfills the reason you want a pipe rather than just buying one to have one.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
do you think you could estimate how fast that would go?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Probably just over 30 (maybe 31) with a torque pipe. With an ADA S1 you could probably hit 34. I've GPSed mine at 33.6 and my engine is bigger, so with a smaller bore you should be able to get a slightly higher top speed, or at least the same.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
oh and sikk torque pipe
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
speed
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
If you're going for speed, a torque pipe isn't the way to go. You don't pick up much top-end with a torque pipe. Stick with a .800 spindle, but I highly suggested an ADA S1, especially if you're going for speed.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
which engine do you have?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
I've got one of the early GP290RSs. If I were to get a new engine it'd be a G260RC or G270RC. The plating is crap on my GP290RS, I'm surprised it hasn't seized yet. The quality of the GP290RS has improved, but it's still hit and miss, unlike a high-quality Zenoah engine.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
25.4 cc
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
a sikk center bleed pipe and a 3. hp engine like 29cc i think its called 260rc
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Yeah, the G260RC is the best two-bolt, so good choice. Is it a Sikk Torque Pipe? Those are replicas of the Engine Trix torque pipe, which is the best torque pipe out there. Anyway, you could run a .800. I wouldn't go higher than that, you'll run not only into fitment issues, but acceleration won't be too quick, either. Are you going for torque/acceleration or speed?
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
oh and whats size spindle would you recomend i got a new engine pipe and airfilter(well i am getting)
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Which engine and pipe do you plan to get? Air filters don't do much more than make it look cool, although if you get the GBE velocity stack you'll pick up a little low-end and be able to tune your carb richer (which means less chance of a seize).
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
and do you think i shuld get a silencer is it worth it?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
If you're going to be doing a lot of back and forth riding, I'd highly recommend it so you don't piss people off.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
yeah thats what i thought lol but center bleed or end bleed which do you recomend?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
The ADA S1 only comes as a center-bleed. Even if you can't get an ADA S1, I'd get some other center-bleed pipe.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
which would you recomend im just riding on the street to my friends house and everything
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
Again, I'd get an ADA S1, it's the best all-around pipe available.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
okay are the center bleed and end bleed ppeshave the same thing like dont make a differnce from each other or is it just for which one you like more
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
The end-bleeds are supposed to give more torque, but center-bleeds are usually better all-around. End-bleeds are louder than center-bleeds, too (which is a bad thing for street riding). If you're getting a pipe, I recommend getting an ADA S1.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
to install a pipe do you need to buy anew exhaust for the sport the one where it comes out the back because i cut my muffler so yeah
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
The pipe would be the new exhaust. The stock muffler has to be removed to mount the pipe. Don't run the engine without an exhaust, you risk warping the cylinder since cool air has much easier access to the exhaust port, plus it's WAY too loud.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
um and i have another questin how much does it cost for most places to install a engine because dont know how to and i dont want to spend a llot of money
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
I have no idea, but probably WAY more than it should! It's very simple to do it yourself. Just remove the three nuts holding the tank on and slide it off the studs. Next, remove the four engine mount screws through the corresponding holes on the tank side of the fender. Be sure to put pressure on them so as not to strip them out (you might want to order some spares just in case; they're cheap). Then, remove the fuel lines and plug them with two of the mount screws.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
You can use a small flat head to stick under the lips of the lines to get them off the barbs. Lastly is removing the spindle. Get a long M6 bolt (DDM sells them as flywheel puller bolts for $0.50, you only need one ) and screw it into one of the holes near the center of the flywheel until it stops. Check that the flywheel won't move, then loosen the bolt holding on the spindle. After that, spray some sort of penetrating spray (if all else fails, WD-40 will usually make do) inside the spindle.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Let it sit for about 10-15 minutes with the engine on its side and the spindle sticking up into the air. Then, LIGHTLY tap a hammer on the spindle to try to get it to budge. You can also stick a screwdriver in the hole and wiggle or tap it to get the spindle off. Just don't hit the spindle directly too hard or you'll possibly bend the crankshaft. After writing all of that, I now realize you're probably not going to be reusing the stock spindle. Oh well, now you know!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Just reassemble it backwards from disassembly, it'll be even easier. Saying that, it appears my comments have been posted in reverse, so if you're reading this first you need to start from the bottom instead. Anyway, it's a REALLY simple task and the hardest part (which only requires patience) is removing the spindle, which I doubt you'll be doing. At least try doing this yourself and if you just can't do it after trying a while (anyone is capable of doing it), THEN take it somewhere for help.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
i have a questin i roe my friends goped and when i taped the gas it jerked me back im getting all of the same upgrades how could i go full speed and not get jerked back?
lebronjamesxxiii 2 years ago
You just have to get used to when the peak of the powerband hits and control the throttle and your stance accordingly.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Thanks for your time! I have just one more question. Would you rather get the sikk torque pipe or the Ada series 2 pipe for all around performance?
FreakShow161 2 years ago
No problem! Those pipes are geared more for low-end power and torque than all-around performance, so the Sikk Center-Bleed Torque Pipe would get my vote for its low-end performance. The S2 will give better top-end performance than a Sikk Torque Pipe, so I suppose it'd be better all-around, but it wouldn't be my choice.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Ok thanks, I think I'm gunna go with the
.710 or .750
FreakShow161 2 years ago
Sounds good!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
If I have a Sikk torque pipe and Hp carb what size spindle do I want if I want to do wheelies and have good acceleration and speed for a sport?
FreakShow161 2 years ago
Assuming you have the stock G23LH, I'd run a .710 if you want to be able to wheelie easily. If it's a GPL290 or 32mm bore RC engine, I'd run a .750. If it's a 34mm bore or larger RC engine, I'd run a .800. Most people like to run .800s regardless of setup, which will work fine and leave you with decent acceleration, but if you have a smaller engine with less torque, you'll have to sacrifice some top speed if you really want decent enough torque to do wheelies and have quick acceleration.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
wat is better a gsr or a sport i am a beginner and 13 want speed
SAVAGERULES123 2 years ago
Considering they now share the same GPL290 engine, it's just a choice between chain-drive or spindle-drive (assuming you're talking about the GSR Sport). I'd probably get the GSR Sport since it can be used in wet conditions much more easily. Acceleration won't be as quick as the Sport, but it'll top out at a higher speed than a regular Sport.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
thank you
SAVAGERULES123 2 years ago
No problem! Have fun and welcome to the sport!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
wat is the diffrence with the gsr sport and the mormal sport and if there is a exhoust for the sport can it fit on the gsr sport
SAVAGERULES123 2 years ago
The GSR Sport is chain-driven and the Sport is spindle-driven (sorry if I didn't make that clear in my first comment). And no, the pipes available for the two are not interchangeable without modification. The aftermarket cans are interchangeable since they don't require mounting brackets unique to different models, but they don't give you much of a performance gain.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
i want one that i can modify to make it
go faster wich one and the gsr is faster stock????
SAVAGERULES123 2 years ago
Yeah, the GSR Sport is faster, stock, but the Sport will accelerate faster. The reason the GSR Sport tops out faster yet accelerates slower is because it has higher gearing, which it's able to have because it has a clutch. So basically, if you care more about top speed than acceleration, then the GSR Sport is what you're looking for.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
can you still modify the gsr sport
SAVAGERULES123 2 years ago
Yes, there are pipes available for it and everything else is interchangeable.
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
thanks for your time one last question what do you perfer
SAVAGERULES123 2 years ago
what do u think is better spindle or chain
SAVAGERULES123 2 years ago
I personally prefer spindle since I like quick acceleration out of the hole more. For all-around riding, a GSR Sport would be better since you can ride in the wet without worrying about spindle slippage and you can come to full stops without the engine cutting off since it has a clutch (which means no rolling through stop signs).
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
thank u
SAVAGERULES123 2 years ago
No problem, hope you end up with what you like most!
NFSGamerUSA 2 years ago
Sup kiddo.. Long time no talk.. I was just searching videos and seen yours.. Hha what a small world..
Bighomedog11 3 years ago
Woah, hey man! What's up?!?
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
Nothing much man.. Just been looking around on craiglist for a cheap ped.. And i just youtube a sport ped and i saw your name and was like woah.. LOL Long time no talk....
Bighomedog11 3 years ago
Yeah, pretty cool. Hope you find a nice Go-Ped!
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
hey man just wanted to know if you had a high performance carb on it
thanks
papaseh 3 years ago
Yeah, the RC engines all come with an "HP" WT carb. This came with a WT-668 since it's a Chung Yang, but I put a DDM "Race Ported" WT-603 on there from the start because the WT-668 has more precise jetting and therefore can require more frequent tuning. Currently it has a WT-813. It's basically a WT-603/WT-668 but has an accelerator pump to smooth out the transition from the low to high jet for less lag.
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
I'd really like to have the freedom that one of these things brings, but UK legislation wont let me ride the thing. :(
Zlyzer 3 years ago
Yeah, sounds like they're pretty strict over there. Don't they take and destroy any scooter or minimoto they see being ridden on the street? I know some people who ride anyway...
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
Yeah, I had a minimoto once that I got caught riding on public roads, the officer let me off fortunately..but I have a minimoto I can't do anything with now and there are no race meetings near me either. I'll probably end up buying one anyway and taking it away from main roads.
Zlyzer 3 years ago
Yeah, that sucks. How far away are you from the open countryside where you can ride more easily? Oh yeah, what type of bike do you have, just out of curiosity?
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
There's some countryside near me so I guessI could go there without being caught.The bike I have..it's a Polini 911 Rep, always reliable, not so fast though.
Zlyzer 3 years ago
Maybe you should try that, at least the police around there won't know you and that'll hopefully just mean a warning since it'd be your first time. I thought the water-cooled Chinese bikes were supposed to be pretty fast and powerful for their price. All I have is a junky Cag. lol
Speaking of Polinis, I had the privilege to see a real Polini 6.2 at the AMA Superbike race out at a newer track near me. It had a Ducati-styled fairing and was in a Ducati vendor tent. It only cost a mere $2099. lol
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
Well yeah, it's a good bike, but the exhaust kills the output, and the standard clutch doesn't help with the take-offs either.
It always bogs at full speed, so I'm guessing it's running a little rich. Perhaps just the exhaust though. The build quality of the thing is great though so maybe I'll just stick a real polini engine in there..they're still pretty damn expensive, at least..the last time I checked.
Zlyzer 3 years ago
Get a Polini pipe and put it on there if it's not too expensive. Also, is it "sputtering" at top speed. That means it's too rich up top. Bogging is caused by a lean mixture, though. If it's bogging from low-range through mid-range rpm, take the needle out of the carb and move the c-clip down a couple of notches or so. If it's like Cags, the carbs are set at the top (or leanest) notch in stock form.
Polini engines aren't cheap, getting a used one would be your best bet.
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
Yeah, I guess you could call it spluttering. I haven't ever opened the carb on this bike - never needed to - unlike the first cag I had.
Is there a standard physical fitting size for the jet or will any jet fit?
Hmm..the genuine Polini pipe is over £200..$400?
I'm thinking of maybe just getting a blata elite 4.2. UNLESS I could get something from the states cheaper with the current exhange rate - I've got around $1,200 to spend. You know of any good us sites that ship to the UK?
Zlyzer 3 years ago
I'm not too familiar with those carbs, but maybe the jet for the top end is indeed a little small. Just get a jet kit and find a combination that works well.
They're all the same size (for a specific carb) but with different sized openings/holes.
I wasn't sure how much it cost, but I wouldn't doubt it's that pricey.
A Blata would be a nice upgrade for sure! I'm not sure where you could buy any REAL name-brand bikes, but check PocketBikePlanet . com and see if they can help you find a bike.
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
what are i going to buy to my goped so i go like
your goped!
tupacnr1 3 years ago
Awesome!
NFSGamerUSA 3 years ago
no ur going 34 max because i have gp290rs a 710 bm 3rd bearing and im going 31 and i also have a juice box.. now im 33 and i just baught a 800 bm fur 3rd bearing and then i will be going 37 and THEN with a pipe i will hit 41..
nos99 4 years ago
Let me guess, you also calculated this riding alongside a car. You're not getting 17700 rpm under load with your current setup, and you won't be getting 19500 rpm by adding a pipe. ROFL! The only situation where 19500 rpm would possibly be attainable under load would be with a piped, ported, and reeded RC engine making around 7hp.
NFSGamerUSA 4 years ago
pretty fast scooter there...
GSRGOPEDRIDER247 4 years ago
Thanks, man. ;)
NFSGamerUSA 4 years ago
There, I fixed the setup I put in the description to what I actually had at the time.
NFSGamerUSA 4 years ago
holy crap nice ped man. i saw one of your videos im puting that pipe on my super xped
superxpeder3299 4 years ago
Thanks man! It's a great pipe! Actually I had a ADA S1 Works (same as regular S1, just no chrome) on in that video, which is pretty much identical to the Sikk S1 I have now. The only difference is that the Sikk has a slightly shorter tip on the end than the ADA (actually a mistake) that results in the Sikk S1 having around 0.3-0.4hp more, but you can't tell much of a difference. The ADA S1 is the best pipe you can currently buy new in my book!
NFSGamerUSA 4 years ago
There ARE sikk S!'s my neighbor has one, they've just been discontinued.
gopedman44 4 years ago
its a sikk m1 im guessing but if its a sikk it has to be
sicK1239 4 years ago
It's a Sikk S1, not a Sikk M1. How hard is that to understand? View my other video for proof. It's a centerbleed, not an endbleed. Again, Sikk copied ADA's S1 design for the most part but made the end cone shorter and more round. ADA sued and Sikk was forced to stop selling and making the Sikk S1s. The Sikk M1 is basically a endbleed S1 and since ADA doesn't sell an endbleed S1 (due to the fact that it's less powerful and louder in endbleed form), Sikk was allowed to continue selling the M1.
NFSGamerUSA 4 years ago
u said sikk s1...its either sikk torque or ada s1..get it right nice ped tho well sounds like it
Jayson138 4 years ago
you are wrong shut up and leave
dudeeitsari 4 years ago
Fuck off dumbass, you obviously don't know what you're talking about. Sikk used to make a copy of the ADA S1 called the Sikk S1 before ADA sued them for copying their design. The Sikk S1 actually makes 0.3-0.4 hp more than the ADA S1 (shorter and more round tip at the end). I have owned both an ADA S1 (first pipe) and this Sikk S1, and sold the ADA S1 to a friend once I got the Sikk S1.
Go and get an attitude adjustment, too.
NFSGamerUSA 4 years ago
Yeah, you gotta love the S1's powerband. You should get a real Go-Ped, they sell a model called the GTR that reaches about 30 mph with stock gearing and has a little over 6" of suspension travel front and rear
NFSGamerUSA 4 years ago
looks like some good pick up there I bought one a couple years ago china made tops out at 20 mph 43 cc motor on mine. lots of fun I ride the fire lanes in the pine forest.
bgineat 4 years ago